이예지 Ye Ji Lee , 김영은 Young Eun Kim , 서재용 Jae Yong Seo , 조현대 Hyun Dae Cho

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Abstract

In this study, a quantitative analysis method was developed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to analyze the content of ceramide NP in lotion, cream, and cleanser formulations in cosmetics. The analysis was performed using a C18 column, and the mobile phase was set at a ratio of 70 : 30 for acetonitrile and methanol, the flow rate was set to 0.8 mL/min, and the column temperature was set to 20 ℃. The method was verified by analyzing specificity, linearity, limit of detection, limit of quantitation, accuracy, and precision in accordance with the ICH guidelines. As a result of validating the method, the linearity of the calibration curve was excellent (R² = 0.99984). The accuracy of the lotion, cream, and cleanser formulations was confirmed with a recovery rate ranging from 95.11% to 100.48%. The precision analysis showed a low relative standard deviation (RSD) of less than 0.26%. The limit of detection was 0.902 μg/mL, and the limit of quantitation was 2.733 μg/mL. Through this quantitative analysis method of ceramide NP applied in cosmetics, it is expected to assist in the quality control of products by enabling measurement even when it is difficult to separate the main peak due to the influence of interfering substances.

Key Words

cosmetics, ceramide NP, functional ingredient, HPLC, validation

김희식 Hee-sik Kim , 현종우 Jong Woo Hyeon , 김민우 Min Woo Kim , 이지연 Ji Yeon Lee , 장준환 Jun-hwan Jang , 배준태 Jun-tae Bae

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Abstract

In this study, exosomes were isolated by ultrafiltration from Lactobacillus rhamnosus J2K-821 and their various effects for skin were evaluated. Their size and concentration were identified 50 ∼ 200 nm and 3.22 × 10 ⁸ particles/mL, respectively through nanoparticle tracking analysis. In order to verify the inflammatory relief effect of Lactobacillus rhamnosus-derived exosomes (LRDEs), their nitric oxide (NO) production inhibitory ability in RAW 264.7 macrophages induced an inflammatory reaction with lipopolysaccharide (LPS) was confirmed. It was revealed that they inhibited NO production in a concentration-dependent manner. To evaluate the antioxidant activity and skin barrier improvement effect of LRDEs, their 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity and hyaluronidase inhibitory activity were confirmed. It was also revealed that their activities were increased by concentration-dependent manner. Through these results, It is believed that LRDEs can be used as a effective natural cosmetic ingredient for anti-inflammation, antioxidation and skin barrier improvement.

Key Words

lactobacillus, exosome, anti-inflammatory, antioxidation, skin barrier improvement

김영주 Young Joo Kim

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Abstract

Water chestnut is fruits of Trapa natans var. bispinosa grown wild in Korea. In this study, water chestnut was investigated for anti-pigmentation. Treatment with ethanolic extracts of water chestnut significantly reduced production of melanin in α-MSH simulated B16F10 cells. At 200 μg/mL ethanolic extracts of water chestnut, melanin contents were repressed by 43.26% compared to the control group. Additionally, ethanolic extracts of water chestnut reduced expression and activity of tyrosinase, key enzyme in melanogenesis, in α-MSH simulated B16F10 cells. Ethanolic extracts of water chestnut downregulated tyrosinase activity and expression to 23.65% and 62.35%, respectively. These results suggest that ethanolic extracts of water chestnut might be used as a promising whitening ingredients for inhibition of α-MSH-induced melanin synthesis and pigmentation.

Key Words

Trapa japonica Flerov, water chestnut, melanin, pigmentation, tyrosinase

고진아 Jin-a Ko , 한지원 Jiwon Han , 남보미 Bomi Nam , 이범석 Beom Seok Lee , 황지영 Jiyoung Hwang

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Abstract

Platycodon grandiflorus (P. grandiflorus) flower is a perennial plant belonging to the family Campanulaceae and has many excellent pharmacological effects, so it has been used as a medicinal ingredient since ancient times. In addition, anthocyanin is a purple or blue natural pigment contained in plant flowers and fruits, and is known as a powerful antioxidant. The purpose of this study was to confirm the dermatological functionality of P. grandiflorus flower extract and the value of the bluish anthocyanin contained in flowers as a cosmetic material as a natural pigment. Firstly, 50% ethanol and 80% ethanol were added to the P. grandiflorus flower and extracted under reflux for 4 h at 25, 60, and 80 ℃, and the pH of each treatment group was similar. Based on the anthocyanin content and chromaticity (E*ab), 50% ethanol 60 ℃ extraction conditions showing the color development most similar to the natural color of the P. grandiflorus flower were selected, and a sample was prepared by concentrating and lyophilizing. The analysis results showed that the total phenol, total flavonoid, and total anthocyanin contents were in the ranges of 23 μg/mL, 16 μg/mL, and 0.17 μg/mL, respectively. The P. grandiflorus flower extract suppressed the production of nitric oxide (NO) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS) induced RAW264.7 cells. Furthermore, the P. grandiflorus flower extract showed wound healing effects through the promotion of skin cell migration in TNF-α stimulated human keratinocytes. The stability of anthocyanin and extract color was studied during a storage period of 50 days at various temperatures (4 ℃, 25 ℃, and 45 ℃). Color values (L, a, and b) of the P. grandiflorus flower extract changed over 50 days, whereas the bluish-purple color of the extract was stabilized using 5% maltodextrin. These results suggest that P. grandiflorus flower extract may be useful as a natural cosmetic pigment.

Key Words

anti-inflammatory, wound healing, Platycodon grandiflorus flower, anthocyanin, color value

김선영 Sunyoung Kim , 이설훈 Seol-hoon Lee

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Abstract

The skin’s barrier structure is formed through the differentiation process of epidermal keratinocytes. It consists of corneocytes that are composed of keratin proteins and lipids that fill the spaces between them. During this process, the lipids such as phospholipid that made up the membrane of the basal layer cells of the epidermis are decomposed and replaced with newly synthesized components like ceramide. In this study, the effect of ginsenoside Rg3 components on the packing of the intercellular lipid structure of the skin barrier and the barrier function was confirmed. To confirm this, Rg3 components were treated during the differentiation process of 3D epidermal cells. The FT-IR and TEWL analysis on 3D epidermis showed an enhancement in the orthorhombic lipid packing and an improvement in barrier function. Additionally, in HaCaT cells, an increase in the expression of EVOL1 and EVOL4, which synthesize long-chain lipids, was detected, along with a decrease in CERS6, which synthesizes short-chain ceramide, and an increase in ACER6, which decomposes ceramide using phytosphingosine. This suggests the possibility that Rg3 affects lipid synthesis during the epidermal differentiation process, resulting in changes in barrier function.

Key Words

skin barrier, lipid packing, orthorhombic, ginsenoside, 3D skin

소지민 Jimin So , 남개원 Gaewon Nam

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Abstract

In this study, in vitro and clinical studies were conducted to assess the anti-inflammatory effects and skin improvement effects, including moisturizing, sebum secretion-regulating, skin barrier function enhancing, and soothing of Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed oil. In in vitro study using cultured human epidermal keratinocytes induced with inflammation by lipopolysaccharide, significant decreases in inflammatory cytokines interleukin-6, interleukin-8, and tumor necrosis factor alpha was revealed, indicating the anti-inflammatory effects of H. annuus (Sunflower) seed oil. Additionally, the results of clinical study on subjects with sensitive skin demonstrated improved skin hydration, regulation of sebum secretion, enhanced skin barrier function, as well as amelioration of skin redness and acne, indicating positive effects on overall skin conditions after application of H. annuus (Sunflower) seed oil containing test product for 4 weeks. Results of this study demonstrated the potential of H. annuus (Sunflower) seed oil as an ingredient for cosmetic, targeting consumers with sensitive skin.

Key Words

Helianthus annuus, Sunflower, seed oil, endocannabinoid, clinical study, sensitive skin, anti-inflammatory

맹지혜 Jihye Maeng , 남개원 Gaewon Nam

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Abstract

In this study, basic skin characteristic data was measured by measuring skin hydration, skin sebum secretion rate, skin melanin index, skin redness index, skin redness image analysis, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and amount of stratum corneum before and after creating a temporary high temperature and low humidity environments targeting Korean women in their 20s to 50s. Stratum corneum by tape stripping was collected at each measurement and skin biomarkers including total protein content, carbonylated protein, neutral lipid, and lipid peroxidation were analyzed. Based on the results, the differences before and after creating a high temperature and low humidity environments were confirmed, the correlation between skin characteristics and skin biomarkers was confirmed, and a new skin index was created based on this. The new skin index can be used in product efficacy evaluation, and the possibility of constructing a new clinical study method and using skin biomarker discovery research through additional research was confirmed.

Key Words

skin index, skin characteristics, skin biomarker, clinical study, customized cosmetic

황형훈 Hyoung Hoon Hwang , 강은영 Eun Young Kang , 김수영 Su Yeong Kim , 정희정 Hui Jeong Jung , 양준성 Jun Seong Yang , 홍원규 Won Kyu Hong , 김홍석 Hong Suk Kim

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Abstract

Sunscreen is a product that protects against ultraviolet rays by blocking and scattering ultraviolet rays, and has now become a daily necessity beyond cosmetics. Applying sunscreen is a common and easy way to prevent skin damage caused by ultraviolet rays. Due to its significance, the evaluation of sunscreen has evolved since its regulation by the FDA in 1978, progressing to standardized methods established by ISO. Additionally, to assess the loss of sunscreen due to activities such as water exposure or sweating, the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety in Korea and ISO have established protocols for evaluating the water-resistant sun protection factor (SPF). However, existing evaluations of water resistance have been mainly confined to test methods involving plain water, and methods accounting for the impact of seawater during activities like beach leisure, sports, and recreation are yet to be established. Based on the existing guidelines for testing the water-resistant UV protection index, this study compared the water-resistant UV protection index in water, artificial seawater (salt water) and natural seawater (sea water) to evaluate the UV protection index in real-world situations such as marine leisure, sports, and leisure activities. Through these results, we were able to compare the differences between water resistance sun protection index tests in ordinary water, artificial seawater, and natural seawater, and suggest a method for water resistance sun protection index tests using natural seawater.

Key Words

ultraviolet, sunscreen, regulation, sun protection factor, SPF, seawater

박지예 Jiye Park , 신재영 Jae Young Shin , 이진용 Jinyong Lee , 안명진 Myoung Jin An , 강내규 Nae Gyu Kang

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Abstract

Lips have a unique desquamation process and moisturizing properties that are structurally different from ordinary skin. In particular, the turnover cycle of the stratum corneum is fast and the outermost stratum corneum is thin, so the amount of keratin is relatively high, and there are no skin appendages, so it is very vulnerable to maintaining moisture. In this study, we set three targets for lip care : stratum corneum, moisture, and barrier, and aimed to identify the potential of three target-specific ingredients for lips improvement. We confirmed the exfoliating, moisturizing, and barrier improvement efficacy of three target-specific ingredients which also have mild exfoliating effect. Specifically, we verified that Bacillus clausii extract improved skin exfoliation, gluconolactone improved skin moisture retention, and serine reinforced skin barrier function. To test the in vivo efficacy of the complex composed of three target-specific ingredients on the human lips, the lip balm manufactured with non-irritating range of concentration was applied, and we confirmed that it was effective in improving lip exfoliation·moisturizing·elasticity·wrinkles. Consequently, it was confirmed that the beauty and health indicators of the lips could be improved through the exfoliation-moisturization-barrier care of the lips and these ingredients were applied to LG H&H LIPCERIN products.

Key Words

lips, hydration, exfoliation, wrinkle, elasticity

강성수 Seongsu Kang , 전승현 Seung-hyun Jun , 이진용 Jinyong Lee , 안명진 Myoung Jin An , 강내규 Nae Gyu Kang

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Abstract

Since the lips are a representative facial part that can express human attraction, aesthetic interest in them has always existed in human history. However, as lips age, they tend to form wrinkles, become thinner, and lose their volume. To counteract this phenomenon, medical procedures such as fillers or fat transplantation have been suggested. In this study, we verified that the one of main e ffective material complex of LG H&H L IPCERIN^®, combination of cedrol, a sesquiterpene found in cedarwood, and three peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, and desamidocollagen) could ameliorate the photo-aging and reduce the wrinkles through in vitro experiments. The possibility of improving collagen and elastin expression in skin fibroblasts and reducing MMP expression under photoaging conditions was verified. In addition, it was confirmed that the amount of fat tissue in the lips can be increased by promoting adipose stem cell differentiation and increasing the amount of fat produced in the in vitro adipose stem cell differentiation experiment. Two weeks of human application tests confirmed that a combination of cedrol and peptides can improve the wrinkles, texture, elasticity, and volume of the lips. This study verified that the combination of cedrol and three peptides can be used as effective cosmetic materials to decrease the various signs of aging in the lips.

Key Words

lips, wrinkle, elasticity, volumization, lip care

김기성 Ki Seong Kim , 박준성 Junseong Park

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Abstract

Malic acid-catalyzed transformation has been developed to produce ginsenoside Rg3 which is increasingly in demand as a functional ingredient. The optimization of the conversion of red ginseng saponin (RGS) to ginsenoside Rg3 by acid catalyzed transformation was carried out using Box-Behnken design (BBD) based on Response Surface Analysis (RSM). The main independent variables were malic acid concentration, temperature, and reaction time. Conversion of ginsenoside Rg3 was performed according to BBD model and optimization conditions were analyzed. The concentration of the converted ginsenoside Rg3 ranged from 1.548 mg/L to 4.558 mg/L, and the highest production was obtained under the condition of reacting 1% malic acid, 50 ℃ and 9h. Consequently, The independent variables affecting the production of ginsenoside Rg3 were identified in the following order: malic acid concentration, reaction time and temperature. In addition, it was confirmed that the interaction between malic acid concentration and reaction time had a greater influence than the temperature.

Key Words

red ginseng extract, ginsenoside Rg3, malic acid, RSM