Research Trends on Skin Microbiome Function and Prospects for Industrial Applications 피부 마이크로바이옴 기능 연구 동향 및 산업적 활용 전망
김지연 Ji Yeon Kim , 고은이 Eun Yi Ko , 백지훈 Ji Hwoon Baek
51(4) 313-318, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.313
김지연 Ji Yeon Kim , 고은이 Eun Yi Ko , 백지훈 Ji Hwoon Baek
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.313
Abstract
The skin microbiome has emerged as a key determinant of skin health and disease, attracting growing attention as a novel target for cosmetics and therapeutics. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the interactions between the skin's physiological environment and resident microorganisms, as well as changes in microbiome composition driven by aging and external factors. Particular focus is given to short-chain fatty acid-mediated signaling pathways, widely recognized in immune regulation, which may also play crucial roles in skin physiology. We further discuss the direct regulatory functions of the skin microbiome, its industrial applications, and the expanding body of evidence on factors influencing microbial communities. Finally, advancements in analytical methodologies are highlighted, with an emphasis on novel microbiome-based efficacy evaluation metrics that offer promising perspectives for future cosmetic and dermatological applications.
Key Words
microbiome, cosmetic, skin barrier, NGS, skin microbiome
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Effect of Polyol and Base Combination on Vitamin C Discoloration in Aqueous Solution 수계에서 폴리올(Polyol)과 염기(Base)의 혼합이 비타민 C 변색에 미치는 영향
최진우 Jin Woo Choi , 김선휘 Seon Hwi Kim , 노호식 Ho Sik Rho
51(4) 319-330, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.319
최진우 Jin Woo Choi , 김선휘 Seon Hwi Kim , 노호식 Ho Sik Rho
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.319
Abstract
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is easily oxidized when exposed to heat, light, or air, resulting in discoloration as its structure changes. Typically, the stability of vitamin C is assessed by measuring its concentration, but consumers are far more sensitive to changes in color. According to previous studies, the discoloration of vitamin C is affected by chelation or hydrogen bonding with bases (metallic salts or organic bases) and by the water activity of polyols. In this study, sodium hydroxide (SH) and triethylamine (TEA) were used as bases to examine their effect on vitamin C discoloration when mixed with polyols. A total of nine polyols, including glycerin, were mixed with these bases to evaluate discoloration stability. The discoloration of vitamin C appeared to be nearly the same regardless of the type of polyol. It was determined that the inhibitory effect of the bases on vitamin C discoloration was stronger than that of the polyols. Furthermore, to investigate whether increasing the content of polyols could disrupt the chelation or hydrogen bonding of the bases, the discoloration stability of vitamin C was examined by increasing the concentrations of glycerin and 1,3-butanediol. In the case of 1,3-butanediol, e v en a s ignificant increase in concentration did not affect the stability of vitamin C. In conclusion, this means that vitamin C can be stabilized solely by the use of a base, regardless of the type or concentration of the polyol.
Key Words
vitamin C, base, polyol, stabilization
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Development and Validation of an HPLC-DAD Method for Simultaneous Determination of Nine Phthalates in Cosmetic Formulations HPLC-DAD 기반 9 종 프탈레이트류 동시분석법의 개발 및 화장품 제형에서의 검증
임대성 Dae Sung Lim , 이춘몽 Chun Mong Lee , 이광식 Kwang Sik Lee
51(4) 331-339, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.331
임대성 Dae Sung Lim , 이춘몽 Chun Mong Lee , 이광식 Kwang Sik Lee
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.331
Abstract
In this study, we developed and validated a high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) method for the simultaneous determination of nine phthalates (DBP, BBP, DEHP, DIBP, DMEP, DPP, DIPP, DNOP, and IPPP) in cosmetic formulations. Method validation was conducted in accordance with international guidelines, including specificity, linearity, limits of detection (LOD), limits of quantification (LOQ), accuracy, and precision. As a result, excellent linearity (R² = 0.9992 to 0.9998) was found in all components, with a detection limit ranging from 0.960 to 1.991 μg/mL and a quantitative limit ranging from 2.909 to 6.032 μg/mL. Recovery results ranged from 98.33% to 104.53%, and repeatability tests yielded relative standard deviations (RSDs) below 1%. Application of the validated method to eight commercial cosmetic products confirmed that none of the nine phthalates were detected. These findings demonstrate that the proposed HPLC-DAD method i s practical, reliable, and suitable for quality control (QC) and regulatory compliance in cosmetics.
Key Words
phthalates, cosmetics, HPLC-DAD, quality control
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A Study on the Wound-healing Effects of Okcheon-hwan Extract under High-glucose Conditions in HaCaT Cells 고농도 포도당 조건 HaCaT 세포에서 옥천환 추출물의 상처 치유 효과에 대한 연구
허성필 Seong Pil Heo , 박노준 No-june Park , 이상헌 Sang Heon Lee , 오용세 Youngse Oh , 김승현 Seung Hyun Kim , 김수남 Su-nam Kim
51(4) 341-348, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.341
허성필 Seong Pil Heo , 박노준 No-june Park , 이상헌 Sang Heon Lee , 오용세 Youngse Oh , 김승현 Seung Hyun Kim , 김수남 Su-nam Kim
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.341
Abstract
This study evaluated the potential of Okcheon-hwan extract (OCHE), a traditional herbal formula, to improve skin function at the cellular level. Using human keratinocytes (HaCaT), wound-healing-related cellular responses were assessed under normal glucose (1 g/L) and high-glucose (4.5 g/L) conditions. While no significant changes were observed under normal glucose, OCHE markedly promoted cell migration and wound closure under high-glucose conditions. The extract also reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation and increased the expression of the antioxidant transcription factor Nrf2 in a concentration-dependent manner, indicating enhanced intracellular antioxidant defense. Western blot analysis further revealed increased expression of E-cadherin and VEGF, along with enhanced F-actin formation, suggesting improved cell motility and contribution to tissue remodeling processes. Among the constituent herbs, Glycyrrhiza uralensis, Trichosanthes kirilowii, Liriope platyphylla, and Prunus mume extracts also showed some similar responses, however, the Okcheon-hwan extract in its compound prescription form demonstrated the most potent improvement effect. These findings demonstrate that OCHE may counteract high-glucose-induced impairment of skin functions, particularly wound healing, by promoting Nrf2-mediated antioxidant regulation and enhancing cellular motility. Therefore, OCHE has the potential to be used as a functional material that can help maintain and improve skin function in an environment at risk of skin damage.
Key Words
Okcheon-hwan extract, wound healing, Nrf2 activation, antioxidant activity, keratinocyte migration
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Evaluation of the Melanin-Generating and Antioxidant Effects of PBLME PBLME 의 멜라닌 생성 및 항산화 효과 평가
김채윤 Chae Yoon Kim , 허창순 Chang Soon Huh
51(4) 349-356, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.349
김채윤 Chae Yoon Kim , 허창순 Chang Soon Huh
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.349
Abstract
With the increasing demand for natural cosmetics, the discovery of new raw materials is becoming important. Placosperma buxifolium (P. buxifolium) is a plant native to the rainforests of northeastern Australia that shows its potential as a cosmetic product. In this study, the antioxidant and melanogenesis-promoting effects of methanol extract of P. buxifolium (PBLME) were investigated. Antioxidant activity, measured through DPPH scavenging and reducing power assays, confirmed PBLME’s dose-dependent effectiveness. The effect on melanin production was evaluated by DOPA oxidation and tyrosinase activity, which is a key process in melanin synthesis. PBLME enhanced both, indicating its ability to stimulate melanin production. These results suggest that PBLME is an antioxidant material with the potential to promote melanin production.
Key Words
antioxidant, cosmetic, melanin, natural, PBLME
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Evaluation of the Fibroblast-regenerative Activity and Skin Anti-aging Effects of Jellyco Pep 해파리 유래 저분자 펩타이드의 섬유아세포 재생기능 및 피부 항노화 효과 평가
유지영 Jiyoung You , 류대훈 Dehun Ryu , 장영수 Youngsu Jang , 조은애 Eunae Cho , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung
51(4) 357-368, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.357
유지영 Jiyoung You , 류대훈 Dehun Ryu , 장영수 Youngsu Jang , 조은애 Eunae Cho , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.357
Abstract
This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of a low-molecular weight jellyfish peptide (Jellyco Pep) by assessing its effects on fibroblast regenerative function, dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) markers, and oxidative-stress responses. In human dermal fibroblasts, Jellyco Pep significantly enhanced proliferation and migration and increased COL1A1 mRNA expression. In both fibroblasts and keratinocytes, Jellyco Pep upregulated DEJ-related markers (COL4A1, ITGA6, and COL17A1 mRNA) and elevated protein levels of type XVII collagen and laminin-332. Consistently, in ex vivo human skin, treatment increased dermal collagen density and enhanced signals of integrin β1, type VII collagen, and laminin-332. Under H2O2-induced stress, Jellyco Pep reduced senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) activity and attenuated the expression of HMOX1, NQO1, and TP53, indicating improved redox balance. Collectively, these findings suggest that Jellyco Pep exerts anti-aging efficacy by promoting fibroblast function, stabilizing DEJ-related structures, and mitigating oxidative stress.
Key Words
Jellyco Pep, dermal fibroblast, dermal-epidermal junction, DEJ, oxidative stress, anti-aging
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Study on Residual Levels of Phthalates in Nail and Fragrance Cosmetics 손발톱용·방향용 화장품 중 프탈레이트류 잔류량 연구
박영혜 Young-hye Park , 조성애 Sung-ae Jo , 조인순 In-soon Cho , 정삼주 Sam-ju Jung , 한진 Jin Han , 조시연 Si-yeon Cho , 정소영 So-young Jung , 김성단 Sung-dan Kim , 김현정 Hyun-jung Kim , 박주성 Ju-sung Park
51(4) 369-376, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.369
박영혜 Young-hye Park , 조성애 Sung-ae Jo , 조인순 In-soon Cho , 정삼주 Sam-ju Jung , 한진 Jin Han , 조시연 Si-yeon Cho , 정소영 So-young Jung , 김성단 Sung-dan Kim , 김현정 Hyun-jung Kim , 박주성 Ju-sung Park
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.369
Abstract
Phthalates are commonly used as plasticizers and emulsifiers in cosmetic products; however, concerns have been raised regarding their potential endocrine-disrupting effects and associated health risks. This study analyzed the residual concentrations of seven phthalates―DBP, BBP, DEHP, DiPP, DMEP, DNOP, and DIBP―as well as one adipate, DEHA, in 138 nail and fragrance cosmetic products using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC/MS). Trace levels of DBP (0.167 ~ 0.186 μg/g) and DEHP 0.042 ~ 0.069 μg/g) were detected in children’s nail enamels and nail polishes. In contrast, a markedly high concentration of DEHA (40318.866 μg/g) was found in fragrance products. Current domestic regulations on cosmetics do not establish permissible limits for DEHA, necessitating the development of appropriate regulatory standards to ensure consumer safety.
Key Words
phthalates, adipates, cosmetics, exposure, GC, MS
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Skin Barrier Enhancement and Anti-Aging Effects of AntiOx-8: A Novel Combination of Eight Natural Extracts 8 가지 천연추출 복합물 AntiOx-8 의 피부장벽 개선 및 노화 개선 효능
전수원 Suwon Jeon , 김하연 Hayeon Kim , 정아형 A Hyung Jeong , 조원태 Wontae Jo , 임예지 Yeji Im , 노경백 Kyung-baeg Roh , 김동민 Dongmin Kim , 조은애 Eunae Cho , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung
51(4) 377-390, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.377
전수원 Suwon Jeon , 김하연 Hayeon Kim , 정아형 A Hyung Jeong , 조원태 Wontae Jo , 임예지 Yeji Im , 노경백 Kyung-baeg Roh , 김동민 Dongmin Kim , 조은애 Eunae Cho , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.377
Abstract
Impaired skin barrier function contributes to dryness, inflammation, and aging-related phenotypes. This study aims to evaluate the potential of a botanical multi-extract blend (AntiOx-8)―comprising Salvia officinalis leaf, Camellia sinensis leaf, Rosa multiflora, Oenothera biennis, Lagerstroemia indica flower, Artemisia capillaris, Salix alba bark, and Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extracts―as a skin barrier improvement ingredient. AntiOx-8 exhibited intrinsic antioxidant efficacy and reduced intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) in human keratinocytes, accompanied by the reduction of MMP-1. In addition, AntiOx-8 upregulated epidermal differentiation markers (filaggrin and loricrin) and enhanced cornified envelope formation, indicating skin barrier repair. In parallel, AntiOx-8 increased HA production and the water channel protein AQP3, supporting cutaneous hydration. Inflammation related mediators NO and PGE₂ were significantly suppressed by AntiOx-8. Furthermore, AntiOx-8 ameliorated cortisol-induced delays in wound healing, suggesting broader anti-aging benefits. Therefore, this suggests that AntiOx-8 can be utilized as a material that contributes to restoring skin barrier function and improving anti-aging effects.
Key Words
skin barrier repair, anti-aging, skin hydration, anti-oxidative stress, multifunctional
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Evaluation of Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, and Whitening Activities of the Red Flower Complex Extract 붉은 꽃 복합 추출물의 항산화, 항염, 미백활성 평가 연구
박청 Chung Park , 김율리 Yulri Kim , 양경희 Kyung Hee Yang
51(4) 391-398, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.391
박청 Chung Park , 김율리 Yulri Kim , 양경희 Kyung Hee Yang
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.391
Abstract
To evaluate the potential of the extract as a cosmetic anti-aging ingredient, the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and whitening activities of a complex flower extract composed of rose (Rosa spp.), hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa), pomegranate (Punica granatum), camellia (Camellia japonica), and safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) were investigated. The complex extract was designated as RFCE (Red Flower Complex Extract). The total phenolic content (TPC) of RFCE was determined to be 81.5 ± 1.3 3mg TAE/g. In antioxidant assays, RFCE exhibited DPPH radical scavenging activities of 37.8 ± 2.4%, 54.7 ± 2.7%, and 74.4 ± 2.3% at concentrations of 50, 100, and 500 μg/mL, respectively. Similarly, the ABTS radical scavenging activities were 48.1 ± 1.3%, 68.7 ± 2.3%, and 89.5 ± 2.4% at the corresponding concentrations. The MTT assay in RAW264.7 cells demonstrated that RFCE did not reduce cell viability, with no significant cytotoxicity observed up to 600 μg/mL. In addition, RFCE significantly decreased nitrite accumulation in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells indicating that RFCE potentially inhibited the NO production in a concentration dependent manner. Furthermore, RFCE inhibited α-MSH-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 cells in a concentration-dependent manner, with approximately 33% reduction in melanin content at 600 μg/mL. From the above results, it was confirmed that RFCE can be used as a multi-functional anti-aging cosmetic material with simultaneous antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and whitening activity.
Key Words
anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-aging, red flower complex extract, RFCE, melanogenesis inhibition
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Inhibitory Effects of Abelmoschus manihot Flower Fractions on Melanogenesis and Antioxidant Activity 금화규 꽃 유래 분획물의 멜라닌 생성 저해 및 항산화 효과
이슬 Seul Lee , 박준성 Junseong Park
51(4) 399-408, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.399
이슬 Seul Lee , 박준성 Junseong Park
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.4.399
Abstract
This study aimed to evaluate the antioxidant and skin-whitening effects of the 70% ethanol extract (AMEE) obtained from Abelmoschus manihot (A. manihot) flowers and its solvent-fractionated samples, including the ethyl acetate fraction (AMEA) and aqueous fraction (AMAF). AMEA exhibited the highest total polyphenol and flavonoid contents (262.5 ± 8.1 mg GAE /g and 384.4 ± 11.2 mg QE /g, respectively), which correlated with its superior antioxidant capacity, showing the lowest SC50 values in both DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assays. Additionally, AMEA significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and α-MSH-induced melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells in a concentration-dependent manner, demonstrating comparable or even greater inhibitory effects than kojic acid at 50 μg/mL. As a result of HPLC analysis, quercetin and myricetin were detected as the main peaks in AMEA, confirming that these physiological activities were due to flavonoid components. Collectively, these findings suggest that the ethyl acetate fraction of A. manihot flowers possesses strong potential as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with both antioxidant and skin-whitening properties.
Key Words
Abelmoschus manihot, antioxidant activity, melanin inhibition, tyrosinase inhibition, flavonoids
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