Evaluation on the Itch Relief Effect of Creams Containing Cynara scolymus Extract 아티초크 추출물을 함유한 크림의 가려움 완화 평가
이정란 Jungran Lee , 이기만 Kiman Lee
51(3) 207-215, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.207
이정란 Jungran Lee , 이기만 Kiman Lee
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.207
Abstract
Dry skin causes various skin diseases and itching due to increased skin barrier damage and water loss, and the development of safe and effective functional products is required to alleviate this phenomenon. This study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory and antihistamine effects of Cynara scolymus (C. scolymus) extract in vitro, as well as to assess the clinical efficacy and safety of a topical cream containing the extract. In vitro assays were conducted using RAW 264.7 and HMC-1 cells to measure the effects of C. scolymus extract on the production of inflammatory cytokines, nitric oxide (NO), histamine, and β-hexosaminidase. The extract significantly suppressed the production of these mediators in a dose-dependent manner. For the clinical evaluation, a skin patch test was performed on 31 healthy adults. A 4 weeks clinical s tudy was conducted on 23 adult females to assess changes in skin hydration, TEWL, v isual analogue scale (VAS), and subjective usability. In the patch test, no adverse reactions were observed, and the product was classified as no irritant in all participants. After 2 and 4 weeks of cream application, skin hydration increased by 48.06%, and 80.41%, respectively, while TEWL decreased by 5.40%, and 8.62%. VAS scores were reduced by 60.19% at 2 weeks and 87.38% at 4 weeks. Furthermore, 100% of subjects reported positive responses on all questionnaire items, including skin barrier improvement, hydration, radiance, conditioning, absorption, smoothness, and fragrance. These results suggest that the cream containing C. scolymuse extract is effective in alleviating dryness-induced pruritus and has potential as a functional skincare product.
Key Words
Cynara scolymus, cream, cytokines, skin barrier, dryness
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Evaluation of the Skin Regenerative and Anti-melanogenic Effects of Chondroitin Sulfate Chondroitin Sulfate 의 피부 재생 및 미백 효과
이지혜 Jihye Lee , 이선미 Sun-mi Lee , 백정인 Jeong-in Baek
51(3) 217-225, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.217
이지혜 Jihye Lee , 이선미 Sun-mi Lee , 백정인 Jeong-in Baek
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.217
Abstract
This study aimed to evaluate the potential of two chondroitin sulfate (CS) subtypes, CS-A and CS-B (also known as dermatan sulfate) as functional cosmetic ingredients, by assessing their skin regenerative and anti-melanogenic effects. In a wound healing assay using HaCaT cells, both CS-A and CS-B significantly promoted the closure of cell-free gaps, with CS-B notably enhancing the phosphorylation of ERK, suggesting its involvement in keratinocyte migration and skin regeneration. In melanin biosynthesis experiments using B16F10 cells stimulated with α-MSH, CS-A inhibited extracellular melanin secretion in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, the expression levels of key melanogenic enzymes, tyrosinase and TRP1, were reduced in response to increasing concentrations of CS-A. These results suggest the possibility that CS can be used as a cosmetic material with a dual function of skin regeneration and anti-melanogenesis.
Key Words
chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, glycosaminoglycans, wound healing, whitening
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A Study on the Effect of Microplastic Alternatives for Clean Beauty on the Stability of Pressed Powder 클린 뷰티를 위한 미세 플라스틱 대체가 프레스드 파우더의 안정성에 미치는 영향에 관한 연구
이대엽 Dae Yeop Lee , 신성진 Sung Jin Shin , 최현 Hyun Choi , 한상근 Sang Keun Han , 빈범호 Bum Ho Bin
51(3) 227-236, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.227
이대엽 Dae Yeop Lee , 신성진 Sung Jin Shin , 최현 Hyun Choi , 한상근 Sang Keun Han , 빈범호 Bum Ho Bin
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.227
Abstract
Recently, clean beauty―which considers not only human safety but also environmental impact―has emerged as a major trend in the cosmetics industry. In particular, microplastics such as Nylon-12 and PMMA, commonly used in color cosmetics for their smooth texture, have been identified as a major source of environmental pollution. Accordingly, as part of ESG-oriented strategies, the industry is actively developing eco-friendly alternatives to microplastics. In this study, we evaluated the hardness, drop stability, friction coefficient, and color development of pressed powders using various spherical powders (silica, cellulose, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate) as potential alternatives to microplastics. The results showed that silica could offer texture and stability comparable to traditional microplastics by controlling particle shape and oil absorption capacity, while still meeting clean beauty criteria. Therefore, this study is expected to serve as a foundational reference for the development of color cosmetics aligned with clean beauty and microplastic reduction goals.
Key Words
clean beauty, microplastics, silica, pressed powder, formulation stability
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Inhibitory Effect of Citrus reticulatia Peel Extract on Cortisone-induced Impairment of Keratinocyte Moisturizing Function 코르티손으로 유도된 피부각질형성세포의 보습 기능 저하에 대한 한라봉 껍질 추출물의 억제 효과
윤유경 Yoo-gyeong Yoon , 김소희 So Hui Kim , 강준철 Jun-chul Kang , 오지원 Ji Won Oh , 손동주 Dong Ju Son , 홍진태 Jin Tae Hong , 박현철 Hyun-chul Park
51(3) 237-245, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.237
윤유경 Yoo-gyeong Yoon , 김소희 So Hui Kim , 강준철 Jun-chul Kang , 오지원 Ji Won Oh , 손동주 Dong Ju Son , 홍진태 Jin Tae Hong , 박현철 Hyun-chul Park
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.237
Abstract
As citrus fruit feel contains various physiologically active metabolites, effects such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin health improvement have been reported. Cortisol secreted by stress causes skin aging and is particularly closely related to the decrease in skin moisturizing function. This study investigated the efficacy of Citrus fruit peels extract (CRPE) to counteract skin dehydration caused by cortisol. After treating HaCaT cells with cortisone, CRPE was applied to assess its inhibitory effects on cortisol-induced moisture decrease. Cortisone treatment decreased gene expression of HAS2 and AQP3, as well as hyaluronic acid (HA) production, while increasing 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 (11β-HSD1) protein and cortisol production. However, when CRPE was applied to cortisone-treated HaCaT cells, mRNA levels of HAS2 and AQP3, and HA production increased, while 11β-HSD1 protein and cortisol production decreased. In addition, hesperidin, a citrus flavonoid, was identified as a marker compound contained in CRPE. These findings suggest that CRPE may prevent skin hydration loss by suppressing the expression of 11β-HSD1 induced by cortisone. Therefore, CRPE is considered to have potential as an effective natural functional material that maintains skin moisturization.
Key Words
Citrus reticulata peel, HaCaTs, moisturizing, 11β-HSD1, cortisol
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Anti-aging Efficacy of Prunus persica Flower Extract (PPFE) 복사나무 꽃 추출물의 항노화 효능
정아형 A Hyung Jeong , 김하연 Hayeon Kim , 전수원 Suwon Jeon , 김민서 Minseo Kim , 이수연 Suyeon Lee , 조은애 Eunae Cho , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung
51(3) 247-260, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.247
정아형 A Hyung Jeong , 김하연 Hayeon Kim , 전수원 Suwon Jeon , 김민서 Minseo Kim , 이수연 Suyeon Lee , 조은애 Eunae Cho , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.247
Abstract
Skin aging is accelerated by various factors such as oxidative stress and collagen degradation, leading to wrinkle formation and reduced skin elasticity. This study aimed to evaluate the potential of Prunus persica flower extract (PPFE) as an anti-aging agent. PPFE treatment promoted collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts and significantly reduced the number of β-galactosidase positive senescent cells. Furthermore, PPFE demonstrated antioxidant activity, as indicated by its DPPH radical scavenging capacity and by the reduction of intracellular ROS levels measured with the H2DCFDA assay. In addition, PPFE upregulated the expression of genes related to the dermal-epidermal junction and enhanced cornified envelope formation in keratinocytes, suggesting improvements in skin barrier function. Clinical evaluation of the PPFE-based topical formulation showed comprehensive improvements in skin parameters, including enhanced skin elasticity, reduced facial wrinkles and sagging, increased skin density, and improvements in hydration and desquamation. These findings indicate that PPFE holds promise as a natural ingredient for anti-aging skincare applications.
Key Words
Prunus persica flower, anti-aging, antioxidant, clinical efficacy, skin barrier
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Inhibitory Effects of Cotton Bark Extract on Melanogenesis 목화 수피 추출물의 멜라닌 생성 억제 효과
권현지 Hyunji Kwon , 정지욱 Ji Wook Jung , 이경애 Kyungae Lee , 이지혜 Jihye Lee
51(3) 261-268, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.261
권현지 Hyunji Kwon , 정지욱 Ji Wook Jung , 이경애 Kyungae Lee , 이지혜 Jihye Lee
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.261
Abstract
In this study, the effect of 70% ethanol extract of Gossypium herbaceum stem bark (GHSB), a cotton by-product, on melanin synthesis inhibition was evaluated by in vitro. In a mushroom tyrosinase assay with L-DOPA as the substrate, the GHSB inhibited the enzymatic reaction. In an α-MSH (200 nM)-induced melanogenesis model using B16F10 melanoma cells, the GHSB (50 ~ 500 μg/mL) reduced intracellular melanin content in a concentration-dependent manner and significantly decreased the protein expression of MITF and its downstream enzymes TRP1 and TRP2. These findings indicate that GHSB can suppress melanogenesis at both the enzymatic and transcriptional/signaling levels and suggest its potential as a functional skin-whitenig cosmetic ingredient.
Key Words
Gossypium herbaceum, cotton bark, melanin inhibition, tyrosinase inhibition, B16F10 melanoma cells
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Anti-Melanogenic Effect of Salicin through TRP-1 and TRP-2 Downregulation under Oxidative Stress and Its Potential as a Skin-Brightening Agent 산화 스트레스 환경에서 TRP-1 및 TRP-2 억제를 통한 Salicin 의 항 멜라닌 효과와 미백 소재로서의 활용 가능성
이시언 Si Eon Lee , 김문무 Moon-moo Kim
51(3) 269-277, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.269
이시언 Si Eon Lee , 김문무 Moon-moo Kim
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.269
Abstract
Melanin is the primary determinant of skin pigmentation, and its excessive production leads to various cosmetic concerns, including dark spots, freckles, and hyperpigmentation. Consequently, there is growing interest in developing safe, naturally derived compounds to effectively suppress melanin formation. Salicin, a naturally occurring β-glucoside from willow bark, is well known for its analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties; however, its role in skin whitening and melanogenesis remains unclear. In this study, we evaluated the whitening potential of salicin by assessing its antioxidant activity (DPPH radical scavenging, reducing power), enzyme inhibitory effects (tyrosinase activity, L-DOPA oxidation), of cellular melanin synthesis, and associated protein expression. Salicin showed negligible antioxidant activity and no significant tyrosinase inhibition, but partially inhibited L-DOPA oxidation at concentrations above 60 μM. In B16F1 melanoma cells under H₂O₂-induced oxidative stress, salicin reduced melanin content in a concentration-dependent manner, with a maximum inhibition of 26.7% at 100 μM, accompanied by downregulation of TRP-1 and TRP-2 expression. These results suggest that salicin acts in the late stages of melanin synthesis and can be utilized as an effective functional whitening agent even under oxidative stress conditions.
Key Words
B16F1, melanogenesis, oxidation, salicin, whitening
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A Study on the Potential of Dictyopteris undulata Holmes Extract as a Functional Cosmetic Material 주름뼈대그물말(Dictyopteris undulata Holmes) 추출물의 기능성 소재로서 가능성 연구
김주영 Ju-young Kim , 변지아 Ji-a Byeon , 정문필 Moon-pil Jung , 박나현 Na-hyeon Park , 권용진 Yong-jin Kwon
51(3) 279-287, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.279
김주영 Ju-young Kim , 변지아 Ji-a Byeon , 정문필 Moon-pil Jung , 박나현 Na-hyeon Park , 권용진 Yong-jin Kwon
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.279
Abstract
Dictyopteris undulata Holmes (D. undulata) is a marine organism belonging to a brown algae, which is known to contain abundant natural substances that exhibit various physiological and active effects, including skin health. Although D. undulata has previously been shown to exert anti-inflammatory effects in RAW 264.7 macrophages, evidence supporting its use as a functional cosmetic ingredient remains limited. In this study, we obtained a D. undulata extract regarded as having high academic and industrial value due to the relative paucity of prior research from the Marine BioBank and evaluated its potential as a functional cosmetic material by assessing DPPH and ABTS+ radical scavenging activity, tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities, and antibacterial efficacy. The total phenolic content was measured as 15.28 ± 0.27 mg/g TAE, and the total flavonoid content as 64.72 ± 2.09 mg/g QE. Antioxidant activity was confirmed through DPPH and ABTS+ radical scavenging assays, demonstrating significant radical scavenging capacity. However, tyrosinase and elastase inhibition analyses did not demonstrate any functionalities associated with skin whitening or wrinkle improvement. Meanwhile, antibacterial assays demonstrated distinct clear zones against Staphylococcus epidermidis, Staphylococcus aureus, and Escherichia coli, indicating strong antibacterial activity. Overall, these findings provide evidence supporting the potential application of D. undulata extract as an antioxidant and antibacterial functional ingredient in cosmetics.
Key Words
Dictyopteris undulata Holmes, antioxidant effect, antibacterial effects, functional materials, cosmetics
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In Vitro Efficacy Study on the Antioxidant and Anti-inflammatory Mechanisms of Glehnia littoralis Extract 갯방풍 추출물의 항산화 및 항염증 기전에 관한 In Vitro 효능 연구
박나현 Na-hyeon Park , 김주영 Ju-young Kim , 김규훈 Gyu Hoon Kim , 권용진 Yong-jin Kwon
51(3) 289-299, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.289
박나현 Na-hyeon Park , 김주영 Ju-young Kim , 김규훈 Gyu Hoon Kim , 권용진 Yong-jin Kwon
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.289
Abstract
In this study, we evaluated the potential of Glehnia littoralis (G. littoralis), a halophyte native to coastal regions of Korea, as a cosmetic ingredient. G. littoralis is a salt plant and has great potential for antioxidant activity, but studies that have identified it as a cosmetic material are still insufficient. Therefore, this study aimed to evaluate the possibility of utilizing G. littoralis as a cosmetic material and to assess its effects on antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial pathways. The antioxidant efficacy of G. littoralis extract was confirmed through measurements of polyphenol and flavonoid contents as well as DPPH and ABTS+ radical scavenging activities, which showed a concentration-dependent reduction in oxidative stress, with ethanol extracts exhibiting stronger effects than water extracts. In addition, in nitric oxide (NO) production inhibition assays using mouse-derived macrophages (RAW 264.7), G. littoralis ethanol extract demonstrated a concentration-dependent and remarkable anti-inflammatory effect. However, in the antimicrobial assay using the paper disc diffusion method, there was no inhibitory activity against the growth of Pseudomonas aeruginosa (P. aeruginosa), Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus), Escherichia coli (E. coli) and Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes). A GLE-containing formulation was evaluated for stability, and the results indicated that the inclusion of GLE did not compromise stability. Overall, the results demonstrate that G. littoralis may serve as a promising functional cosmetic ingredient with both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Key Words
Glehnia littoralis, halophyte, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, functional material
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An Ex Vivo Human Skin Explants Model for Cosmetic Ingredients and Formula Efficacy Assessment 다양한 자극원을 활용한 Ex Vivo 인간 피부 배양 모델을 이용한 화장품 원료 및 제형 평가 모델 구축
김성우 Sungwoo Kim , 김연재 Yeonjae Kim , 이주연 Juyeon Lee , 정세규 Sekyoo Jeong
51(3) 301-312, 2025
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.301
김성우 Sungwoo Kim , 김연재 Yeonjae Kim , 이주연 Juyeon Lee , 정세규 Sekyoo Jeong
DOI:10.15230/SCSK.2025.51.3.301
Abstract
While the skin barrier is essential for maintaining homeostasis, it is frequently compromised by exogenous stressors such as ultraviolet radiation, chemical irritants, environmental pollutants, and immune mediators. Impaired barrier function is closely linked to xerosis, inflammation, premature aging, and heightened sensitivity, making its restoration and reinforcement a key focus in cosmetic ingredient development. Although ex vivo human skin explant models have been reported, most studies relied on single stimuli and provided only a limited view of the complex mechanisms underlying barrier disruption. In this study, we established an expanded ex vivo skin explant platform incorporating multiple stimuli with a tissue microarray approach. Photodamage (UVB, UVA), chemical injury (sodium dodecyl sulfate), oxidative stress (hydrogen peroxide), environmental stress (diesel particulate matter), and immune modulation (Th2 cytokine mixture) were applied, and histological evaluations were performed. Each stimulus induced distinct and dose-dependent alterations in barrier proteins, inflammatory mediators, or structural components. These results demonstrate that appropriate ex vivo models can be tailored to evaluate diverse bioactivities of cosmetic ingredients and formulations. Furthermore, this work supports the future development of multi-stressor ex vivo systems for personalized cosmetic research and for functional validation of novel active ingredients.
Key Words
ex vivo, cosmetics, skin irritation model, tissue microarray
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