A Study on Lipid Nanovesicles for Enhanced Skin Absorption of Cosmetic Active Ingredients 화장품 효능성분 피부흡수 증진을 위한 지질나노베지클 연구
핀다아리아티뿌뜨리 Finda Ariati Putri , 리안데스티아니뿌뜨리 Rian Destiyani Putri , 김기백 Kibaek Kim , 조영관 Youngkwan Cho , 오희묵 Heemuk Oh , 장지희 Jihui Jang , 이준배 Jun Bae Lee
50(3) 193-200, 2024
핀다아리아티뿌뜨리 Finda Ariati Putri , 리안데스티아니뿌뜨리 Rian Destiyani Putri , 김기백 Kibaek Kim , 조영관 Youngkwan Cho , 오희묵 Heemuk Oh , 장지희 Jihui Jang , 이준배 Jun Bae Lee
DOI:
Abstract
In this work, lipid nanovesicles (LNV) containing niacinamide were prepared by changing the concentration of lecithin, fatty acids (palmitic acid), and surfactant (polysorbate 60), and physicochemical characteristics analysis and skin permeability evaluation were performed. The present LNVs were measured with an average diameter of 77 ~ 160 nm, zeta potential -63 ~ -31 mV depending on the concentration of lecithin and polysorbate 60. As a result of observing the stability over time for 12 weeks, LNV1 showed much better colloidal stability than others. In addition, in vitro skin penetration using Franz cell was evaluated for LNV. In this work, niacinamide was selected as the model drug. As a result of skin penetration, it was confirmed that the skin penetration of fatty acid containing LNV1 was much superior than control. These results confirm that LNVs containing lecithin, fatty acids, and surfactants can support the skin absorption of active ingredients in cosmetics.
Key Words
lipid nanovesicle, lecithin, palmitic acid, polysorbate 60
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Study on the Properties of Rosa multiflora Extract as an Pore-improving Cosmetic Material 찔레꽃 추출물의 모공 개선 화장품 소재로서의 특성 연구
유지영 Jiyoung You , 노경백 Kyung-baeg Roh , 장영수 Youngsu Jang , 조은애 Eunae Cho , 윤소현 Sohyun Yoon , 황윤희 Yunhee Hwang , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung
50(3) 201-211, 2024
유지영 Jiyoung You , 노경백 Kyung-baeg Roh , 장영수 Youngsu Jang , 조은애 Eunae Cho , 윤소현 Sohyun Yoon , 황윤희 Yunhee Hwang , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung
DOI:
Abstract
The aim of this study was to propose Rosa multiflora (R. multiflora) as a cosmetic material for refining pores, and the ethanolic extract of R. multiflora (RME) was used to identify changes in various factors related to sebum regulation, astringency, and extracellular matrix, which are known to affect pores, and the effects were confirmed through clinical trials. The effects of these changes were confirmed through clinical trials. As a result, RME suppresses the excessive production of sebum, and it possesses DPPH radical scavenging ability through an astringent tannin component. Futhermore, RME inhibited 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 (11β-HSD1) activity and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production, and it increased hyaluronic acid synthesis. In clinical trials, it was confirmed that RME significantly reduced the area, depth, number, volume, and density of pores-key parameters for assessing pores-and it also reduced sebum levels. This suggests that RME has an astringent effect and could be used as a cosmetic ingredient to improve the appearance of pores by controlling sebum production and influencing ECM-related factors.
Key Words
Rosa multiflora, facial pore, sebum, extracellular matrix, astringency
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Physicochemical Characterization of Norbixin Elastic Liposomes and Evaluation of their In Vitro Skin Permeability 노르빅신 탄성 리포좀의 물리화학적 특성 및 시험관 내 피부 투과성 평가
이서영 Seo Young Lee , 정지원 Jiwon Jeong , 오초희 Cho Hee Oh , 이채현 Chae Hyun Lee , 홍정일 Jungil Hong , 박수남 Soo Nam Park
50(3) 213-225, 2024
이서영 Seo Young Lee , 정지원 Jiwon Jeong , 오초희 Cho Hee Oh , 이채현 Chae Hyun Lee , 홍정일 Jungil Hong , 박수남 Soo Nam Park
DOI:
Abstract
In this study, norbixin loaded elastic liposomes (NELs) containing norbixin were prepared by changing the ratio (0.25 to 1 mg/mL) of sucrose stearate (SS), a surfactant, to evaluate changes in physical properties, skin permeability, light stability, and antioxidant activity. The average diameter of the NELs ranged from 80.6 to 113.8 nm, with zeta potential from 22.2 to 33.9 mV, deformability from 7.3 to 16.1, and loading efficiency from 40.5 to 58.6%. In the 0.05% norbixin-loaded elastic liposome, the highest loading efficiency, zeta potential, and deformability were observed in 1 mg/mL of SS (NEL-5). Under blue LED (10 W/㎡), NEL showed higher photostability and antioxidant activity compared to unencapsulated norbixin. Due to its high stability and encapsulation efficiency, NEL-5 formulation was subsequently used for transdermal permeation. Furthermore, the NEL-5 has been shown to retain more in the stratum corneum of the skin than general liposome and 1,3-butylene glycol solution. These results confirm that the use of SS as a surfactant can stabilize the physicochemical properties of NELs and efficiently deliver active ingredients to the stratum corneum.
Key Words
norbixin, elastic liposome, antioxidant activity, photostability, LED
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Anti-oxidative, Anti-inflammatory and Anti-bacterial Constituents from the Extract of Prunus mume Branches 매실나무 가지 추출물의 항산화, 항염, 항균 활성 및 유효성분 연구
김혜빈 Hye Bin Kim , 김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee
50(3) 227-237, 2024
김혜빈 Hye Bin Kim , 김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee
DOI:
Abstract
In this study, we investigated anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial constituents from the extract of Prunus mume (P. mume) branches. Five phytochemicals were isolated from the ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction of P. mume branches; noreugenin (1), naringenin (2), prunin (3), procyanidin A2 (4) and epiafzelechin-(2β→O→7, 4β→ 8)-epicatechin (5). The chemical structures of isolated compounds were elucidated based on the spectroscopic data including NMR spectra as well as comparison of the data to the literature values. Upon the anti-oxidative studies by DPPH and ABTS+ radicals, potent radical scavenging activities were observed in the extract, EtOAc, n-butanol (BuOH) fractions and isolated compounds 4, 5. In the anti-inflammatory tests using RAW 264.7 macrophages, the n-hexane (Hex), EtOAc fractions and compounds 1-5 inhibited production of nitric oxide (NO) without causing cell toxicity. Also, the extract, n-Hex, EtOAc and n-BuOH fractions showed anti-bacterial activities against Staphylococcus epidermidis and Cutibacterium acnes. Based on these results, it was suggested that the extract, solvent fractions and phytochemicals from P. mume branches could be applicable as natural source for cosmetic ingredients.
Key Words
Prunus mume, anti-oxidation, anti-inflammation, anti-bacterial, isolation
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Moisturizing, Soothing, and Antioxidant Effects from Prunus mume Flower, Lonicera japonica Flower, Chrysanthemum indicum Flower, and Phyllostachys bambusoides Complex Extracts (Royal TheraTea Guard™) 매화, 금은화, 감국, 대나무 복합추출물(로얄테라티가드™)을 이용한 보습, 진정 및 항산화 효과
차윤정 Youn Jeong Cha , 김성재 Sung Jae Kim , 김운하 Woon Ha Kim , 박서연 Seo Yeon Park , 하서은 Sea Win Ha , 이승지 Seung Ji Lee
50(3) 239-250, 2024
차윤정 Youn Jeong Cha , 김성재 Sung Jae Kim , 김운하 Woon Ha Kim , 박서연 Seo Yeon Park , 하서은 Sea Win Ha , 이승지 Seung Ji Lee
DOI:
Abstract
In this study, we investigated the skin safety, antioxidant, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory effects of a composite extract of Prunus mume flower, Lonicera japonica flower, Chrysanthemum indicum flower, and Phyllostachys bambusoides (Royal TheraTea Guard™, RTG), which has been used as an internal medicine in the royal medical treatment for preventing skin damage caused by external environmental factors. In a cytotoxicity test on HaCaT cells, RTG complex extract showed no change in cell viability at concentrations of 0.125, 0.25, 0.5, and 1%, and a skin irritation index of 0.00 in a human patch test, confirming that it is non-irritating to the skin. The antioxidant effects was confirmed by the presence of 497.83 μg GAE/g of polyphenols and increased DPPH radical scavenging activity, with a significant increase in catalase activity in the stratum corneum, showing potential as an antioxidant that protects cells from oxidative stress. The anti-inflammatory effects was observed through reduced erythema in skin stimulated by tape stripping and treated with fine dust in keratinocytes. The moisturizing effects was shown by increased expression of hyaluronan synthase (HAS)2, 3 and keratin1 in keratinocytes treated with fine dust compared to the control group, as well as increased skin moisture content and decreased skin roughness. These results suggest RTG can be used as a cosmetic ingredient to prevent skin damage caused by external environmental factors.
Key Words
Royal TheraTea Guard™, skin safety, antioxidant, skin moisturizing, anti-inflammatory
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Hyaluronic Acid Synthesis Effect of Prunus yedoensis Bark Ethyl Acetate Fraction 왕벚나무 수피 에틸아세테이트 분획물의 히알루론산 합성효과
송지현 Ji Hyun Song , 김명기 Myong-ki Kim , 곽수민 Soo Min Kwak , 김용민 Yong Min Kim
50(3) 251-259, 2024
송지현 Ji Hyun Song , 김명기 Myong-ki Kim , 곽수민 Soo Min Kwak , 김용민 Yong Min Kim
DOI:
Abstract
The skin barrier plays an important role in maintaining healthy skin by preventing external irritation and water loss in the body. In the skin, hyaluronic acid (HA) is synthesized by the enzyme hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS), which functions as a natural moisturizing factor and is involved in maintaining water retention and barrier function. Therefore, in this study, the effect of the Prunus yedoensis bark ethyl acetate fraction (PYBEAF) on HA synthesis in HaCaT cells was confirmed. Cytotoxicity evaluation was performed through MTT assay, and the amount of HA synthesis in HaCaT cells was confirmed through ELISA through PYBEAF treatment. The levels of HAS-2, HAS-3 mRNA expression were analyzed using qRT-PCR, and the protein expression level and signaling pathway were confirmed through western blotting. Consequently, PYBEAF was involved in the MAPK and CREB signaling pathways, increasing the amount of HA production through HAS-2 synthesis. This suggests that PYBEAF is effective in improving barrier function by increasing HA synthesis, which plays an important role in moisturizing and maintaining skin moisture.
Key Words
Prunus yedoensis bark, hyaluronic acid, MAPK, HaCaT
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A Study on the Itch Relief (Barrier Improvement) Effect of Creams containing Siraitia grosvenorii Extract due to Skin Moisturizing 나한과추출물 함유 크림의 피부 보습에 기인한 가려움 완화(장벽 개선) 효과에 대한 연구
성윤영 Yoon-young Sung , 김동선 Dong-seon Kim
50(3) 261-270, 2024
성윤영 Yoon-young Sung , 김동선 Dong-seon Kim
DOI:
Abstract
In this study, the effects of relieving itching and improving the barrier due to moisturizing human skin were evaluated for the cream containing Siraitia grosvenorii extract, which is effective in suppressing histamine and improving skin inflammation in the study subjects with itching. 43 female volunteers aged 21 ～ 59 years old (experimental group: 21 and control group 22) suitable for the purpose of the study were used for 4 weeks on the anterior gourd. The evaluation measured the amount of skin moisture and transepidermal moisture loss (TEWL) in the left or right anterior gourd before and after use of the product, and the visual analogue scale (VAS) evaluation due to skin drying, the efficacy and usability questionnaire evaluation of the product, and skin safety evaluation were conducted. As a result of the analysis, compared to before product use, both the experimental group and the control group showed significant improvement effects according to product use 4 weeks after use on the evaluation items of skin moisture and transepidermal moisture loss and the VAS due to skin dryness. In particular, the experimental group showed a significant improvement effect compared to the control group. As a result of the survey on the efficacy and usability of the product, the subjects of the study in the test group showed higher satisfaction than the control group in the case of the items “relieving itching (suitable)”, “moisturizing” and “smoothing” after four weeks of use. In terms of usability, the subjects of the study in the experimental group showed higher satisfaction than the control group in the case of the “scent” and “feeling” items. Based on the above results, it is believed that “cream containing S. grosvenorii extract” has an itch relief (barrier improvement) effect due to skin moisturizing and can be used as a functional product for itching and barrier function improvement.
Key Words
cream, dry skin, itching relief, Siraitia grosvenorii extract, skin barrier
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Effects of Nipa fruticans Wurmb Extract on Inhibition of UVB-Induced DNA Damage and MMP Expression 해죽순(Nipa fruticans Wurmb) 추출물의 UVB 유도 DNA 손상 및 MMP 발현 억제 효과
한소연 So Yeon Han , 장태원 Tae Won Jang , 이다윤 Da Yoon Lee , 문지선 Ji-sun Moon , 김용신 Yong-shin Kim , 박재호 Jae Ho Park
50(3) 271-278, 2024
한소연 So Yeon Han , 장태원 Tae Won Jang , 이다윤 Da Yoon Lee , 문지선 Ji-sun Moon , 김용신 Yong-shin Kim , 박재호 Jae Ho Park
DOI:
Abstract
The human skin is an organ that protects the body from physical and chemical factors. The skin is the largest and most massive of the body's organs and is composed of the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. Constant UV exposure to the skin can cause DNA damage, oxidation of proteins, and contribute to adult diseases. Nypa fruticans Wurmb (NF), rich in phytochemicals (polyphenols and flavonoids), has been traditionally used for treating respiratory and other diseases. This study investigated the effects of NF ethyl acetate fraction (ENF) on DNA damage healing and inhibition of wrinkle-related factors in UVB-stimulated Hs68 cells. Westernblotting was used to assess the expression of DNA damage-related proteins and wrinkle-related protein factors. In addition, the wound recovery capability of ENF was confirmed through wound-healing experiments. ENF significantly suppressed the expression of DNA damage-related proteins Phosphorylated H2AX (γ-H2AX), checkpoint kinase 2 (Chk2), protein53 (p53), and Phosphorylated protein53 (p-p53). Furthermore, ENF inhibited the expression of wrinkle-related proteins matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), matrix metalloproteinase-3 (MMP-3), and matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9). High concentrations of ENF also enhanced wound healing in Hs68 cells. ENF is thought to have the potential to heal DNA damage by significantly suppressing the expression of γ-H2AX, Chk2, p53, and p-p53, as well as to inhibit wrinkle formation by suppressing the expression of MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9. These results suggest that ENF can be used as a natural resource to suppress skin damage caused by UVB by regulating the γ-H2AX, Chk2, p53, and MMP pathways in Hs68 cells induced by UVB.
Key Words
reactive oxygen species, DNA damage, anti-wrinkle, γ-H2AX, MMP
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Study on the Efficacies of Anti-acne Cosmetic Containing Lactonic Hydroxy Acid for Improving Acne Skin Care 락톤형 하이드록시애씨드를 적용한 여드름 피부 개선 화장품 효능 연구
백문기 Moonki Baek , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin
50(3) 279-288, 2024
백문기 Moonki Baek , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin
DOI:
Abstract
This study investigates the efficacy of anti-acne cosmetics containing lactonic hydroxy acid, specifically gluconodeltalactone (GDL), in improving acne skin treatment. In sebaceous cells induced by linoleic acid, GDL at concentrations of 1.0 mg/mL or higher demonstrated a concentration-dependent inhibition of lipid synthesis. Antibacterial activity of GDL against Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) was confirmed through minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) assays. Based on these in vitro results, a clinical test was conducted involving 65 participants to evaluate the effects of a anti-acne cosmetic formulation containing 3% GDL over an eight-week period. The results indicated a statistically significant improvement (p < 0.05) in both inflammatory acne lesions (papules, pustules, and nodules) and non-inflammatory lesions (comedones) from as early as two weeks of application, without any reported skin irritation. The results confirm that cosmetics with GDL can be used effectively and safely without long-term skin irritation, even for consumers with sensitive acne-prone skin.
Key Words
acne, anti-acne, cosmetics, lactonic hydroxy acid, gluconodeltalactone
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Study on the Anti-Aging Activity of Chrysanthemum lucidum Exosomes 울릉국화 엑소좀의 항노화 활성 효과 연구
김민하 Min-ha Kim , 윤은정 Eun Jung Yoon , 김정수 Jung Soo Kim , 배소현 So Hyun Bae , 최나영 Na Young Choi , 박시준 Si Jun Park , 이현상 Hyun Sang Lee
50(3) 289-299, 2024
김민하 Min-ha Kim , 윤은정 Eun Jung Yoon , 김정수 Jung Soo Kim , 배소현 So Hyun Bae , 최나영 Na Young Choi , 박시준 Si Jun Park , 이현상 Hyun Sang Lee
DOI:
Abstract
Chrysanthemum lucidum (C. lucidum), a perennial herb in the Asteraceae family, is an endemic species found only on Ulleung island in Gyeongsangbuk-do, South Korea. Previous studies have reported that the extract of C. lucidum exhibits excellent antioxidant activity due to its high polyphenol and flavonoid content. However, the anti-aging effects of C. lucidum extract, such as wrinkle improvement and cell regeneration, are not well known, and there has been no research on the activity of C. lucidum-derived extracellular vesicles (ClDEVs). Therefore, this study aimed to verify the anti-aging effects of ClDEVs through in vitro and clinical analyses. In cell experiments, ClDEVs promoted cell regeneration, increased the expression of COL1A1, a gene involved in collagen synthesis, and enhanced the expression of FLG and LOR, a biomarker related to skin barrier improvement. Additionally, ClDEVs suppressed the expression of aging-related biomarkers, such as the CDKN2A (encodes p16) and TP53 (encodes p53) genes, in cells induced to age. In a human clinical trial, after using a cosmetic product containing ClDEVs for 4 weeks, significant improvement in wrinkles around the eyes and nasolabial folds was observed. In conclusion, ClDEVs have demonstrated high potential as a bio-cosmetic ingredient for wrinkle improvement and anti-aging.
Key Words
cosmetic, Chrysanthemum lucidum, exosome, extracellular vesicles, anti-aging
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