하재원 Jae Won Ha , 최준용 Joon Yong Choi , 부용출 Yong Chool Boo

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Abstract

Hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) is a type of active oxygen species (ROS) that causes oxidative stress in cells and affects cell growth, proliferation, senescence, and death. The purpose of this study is to find active peptides that attenuate cytotoxicity of H₂O₂. A positional scanning synthetic tetrapeptide combinatorial library was screened to predict the sequence of potentially active peptides. As a result of comparing the effect of peptide pools on H₂O₂-induced death of human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells), various active peptide sequences were predicted. Especially, peptides containing cysteine (C) residue were predicted to be active. In follow-up experiments, the cytotoxicity and activity of cysteine-containing peptides of different lengths, such as C-NH₂, CC-NH₂, CCC-NH₂, and CCCC-NH₂ were examined. C-NH₂ and CC-NH₂ showed no significant cytotoxicity up to 1.0 mM, but CCC-NH₂, and CCCC-NH₂ showed relatively strong cytotoxicity. C-NH₂ and CC-NH₂ alleviated H₂O₂-induced cytotoxicity. CC-NH₂ was more cytoprotective compared to C-NH₂, C, N-acetyl cysteine (NAC), and glutathione (GSH). When intracellular ROS was measured by flow cytometry, H₂O₂ increased ROS production, and CC-NH₂ suppressed ROS production more effectively than C-NH₂, and it was as effective as C, NAC, and GSH. This study suggests that CC-NH₂ of the cysteine-containing peptides of different lengths has an antioxidant property that safely and effectively alleviates H₂O₂-induced cytotoxicity and ROS production.

Key Words

hydrogen peroxide, oxidative stress, cysteine-containing peptides, reactive oxygen species, keratinocytes

한나래 Narae Han , 이진영 Jin Young Lee , 김미향 Mihyang Kim , 최은영 Eun Young Choi , 안봉전 Bong-jeun An , 이유영 Yu-young Lee , 강문석 Moon Seok Kang , 김현주 Hyun-joo Kim

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Abstract

This study was conducted to investigate the possibility of peanut shell, a by-product of peanut, as a functional cosmetic ingredient. Peanut shell extract showed high antioxidant activity with IC₅₀ values of 75.00, 46.33, and 472.83 μg/mL for DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging and SOD-like activity, respectively. Furthermore, peanut shell extract was efficiently decreased the MMP-1 and MMP-3 protein level in the UVB treated-HaCaT cell and maintained procollagen protein level similar to normal control. Similar to anti-wrinkle related protein expression assay, the IC₅₀ value of elastase and collagnease inhibition in peanut shell extract was lower as 0.30 and 0.09 mg/mL, respectively, than that of the positive control. Additionally, eriodictyol and luteolin, which are isolated from peanut shell extract, showed 53.8 and 98.0% elastase inhibition rate, respectively, and 60.1 and 72.5% collagenase inhibition rate, respectively, at a concentration of 0.1 mg/mL. Thus, luteolin was assumed to be the effective ingredient for wrinkle inhibition in peanut shell extract. As a result of stability evaluation of lotion and cream formulations containing peanut shell extract, it was confirmed to be a stable formulation with no significant changes. Therefore, it is considered that peanut shell extract can be applied as a cosmetic ingredient for wrinkle inhibition.

Key Words

arachis hypogaea, by-product, collagenase, elastase, functional compounds

김연지 Yeon Ji Kim , 이인숙 In Sook Lee , 김수애 Su Ae Kim , 김꽃봉우리 Koth Bong Woo Ri Kim , 윤호철 Ho Cheol Yun , 구평태 Pyeung Tae Gu

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Abstract

A total of 81 handmade soaps on sale on the market were collected from January to November 2022. To compare quality characteristics, all ingredients were referred to, and the pH, dry reduction, heavy metals (lead, arsenic, cadmium, antimony, and mercury), and contents of free alkali were measured. All soaps had a slightly alkaline pH of 7.9 to 11.2, average drying loss was 17.6%, and free alkali was hardly detected. The average values of all heavy metals were 0.104 ㎍/g for lead, 0.035 ㎍/g for arsenic, 0.002 ㎍/g for cadmium, 0.048 ㎍/g for antimony, and 0.0003 ㎍/g for mercury. The results of handmade soap were below the recommended in regulations on safety standards for cosmetics of Ministry of Food and Drug Safety.

Key Words

handmade soap, harmful substances, allergenic materials, cosmetics

박현섭 Hyun-sub Park , 손성길 Seong Kil Son , 강내규 Nae-gyu Kang , 이익현 Ik Hyun Lee

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Abstract

In this study, the porous structure inside the hair were observed using an optical microscope without damaging the hair, and the porosity inside the hair was quantitatively expressed using the results. Experiments were conducted on the effect of the decrease in density inside the hair on the bending and tensile properties of the hair, and experiments on endogenous and extrinsic factors were conducted to find out the causes of the decrease in density inside the hair. As for the endogenous factor, the porosity of gray hair, one of the representative symptoms of aging, was compared with normal hair. As for extrinsic factors, it was observed that the internal density of hair decreased by surfactant and heat, which are factors that can cause hair damage in daily life. In addition, we confirmed whether it is possible to increase the internal density and luster of the hair by using an amino acids and material that can prevent hair lipid predisposition.

Key Words

hair, medulla, porosity, optical microscope, luster

김세연 Se-yeon Kim , 김원형 Won Hyung Kim , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

In the cosmetics industry, it is important to develop new materials for functional cosmetics such as whitening, wrinkles, anti-oxidation, and anti-aging, as well as technology to increase absorption when applied to the skin. Therefore, in this study, we tried to optimize the nanoemulsion formulation by utilizing response surface methodology (RSM), an experimental design method. A nanoemulsion was prepared by a high-pressure emulsification method using Glabridin as an active ingredient, and finally, the optimized skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was evaluated. Nanoemulsions were prepared by varying the surfactant content, cholesterol content, oil content, polyol content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization as RSM factors. Among them, surfactant content, oil content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization, which are factors that have the greatest influence on particle size, were used as independent variables, and particle size and skin absorption rate of nanoemulsion were used as response variables. A total of 29 experiments were conducted at random, including 5 repetitions of the center point, and the particle size and skin absorption of the prepared nanoemulsion were measured. Based on the results, the formulation with the minimum particle size and maximum skin absorption was optimized, and the surfactant content of 5.0 wt%, oil content of 2.0 wt%, high-pressure homogenization pressure of 1,000 bar, and the cycling number of high-pressure homogenization of 4 pass were derived as the optimal conditions. As the physical properties of the nanoemulsion prepared under optimal conditions, the particle size was 111.6 ± 0.2 nm, the PDI was 0.247 ± 0.014, and the zeta potential was -56.7 ± 1.2 mV. The skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was compared with emulsion as a control. As a result of the nanoemulsion and general emulsion skin absorption test, the cumulative absorption of the nanoemulsion was 79.53 ± 0.23%, and the cumulative absorption of the emulsion as a control was 66.54 ± 1.45% after 24 h, which was 13% higher than the emulsion.

Key Words

transdermal absorption, response surface method, nanoemulsion, glabridin, high pressure homogenization

홍지연 Ji Yeon Hong , 박치제 Chi Je Park , 김용우 Yong Woo Kim , 한상근 Sang Keun Han , 계성봉 Sung Bong Kye , 노호식 Ho Sik Roh , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

This study aims to investigate the enhancement of water resistance and improvement in adhesion to the skin by combining dextrin palmitate and isopropyl titanium triisostearate coating materials with titanium dioxide. Due to the recent increase in consumers who enjoy outdoor activities, the demand for sunscreen with excellent water resistance is increasing. Prior research was conducted with O/W, Pickering, and W/O/W multiple formulations, but there was a limit to water resistance. The purpose of this study is to develop a complex inorganic powder that can improve water resistance and increase adhesion to the skin to solve this problem. First, we combined dextrin palmitate and isopropyl titanium triisostearate coating materials to form a composite with titanium dioxide. The coating of the inorganic powder was confirmed using FE-SEM and FT-IR analysis. The composite exhibited significantly higher in vitro water resistance compared to other formulations. The hydrophobicity of the coated inorganic powder was compared by measuring the contact angles. When the coated inorganic powder was applied to the W/O sunscreen formulation and the non-coated inorganic powder was applied to the W/O sunscreen formulation as a control, the SPF of the sunscreen containing the coated inorganic powder was higher. These results were the same when observed with a UV camera. Finally the adhesion of the coated inorganic powder to the skin was assessed by applying it to a foundation product. In vivo study, it was observed that the product formulated with the coated powder exhibited less smudging compared to the foundation product formulated with the non-coated powder. The developed inorganic powder in this study demonstrated excellent adhesion to the skin, providing a superior sensory experience, as well as enhanced hydrophobicity and remarkable water resistance effects. In the future, the result of this study is expected to help develop various sunscreen products to improve water resistance.

Key Words

water-resistant, W, O emulsion, titanium dioxide, adhesion force to skin, composite powder

이경주 Kyung Ju Lee , 김유아 You Ah Kim , 박병준 Byoung Jun Park

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Abstract

This study was conducted to evaluate physiological activity of flower extract of peony (Paeonia lactiflora Pall.) by hydrolysis and to use it as a valuable cosmetic ingredients. Four cultivar of peony flowers were extracted, and the highest active ingredient contents was selected, and that cultivar was used for hydrolyzing. The results showed that high concentration of hydrochloric acid (HCl) hydrolyzed, and biological hydrolysis using enzymes had no activity. The deglycosylation of peonidin 3,5-diglucoside occurred by hydrolysis. The hydrolysate contains 63.3 ppm of peonidin, a red-colored anthocyanin compound. The antioxidant activity of hydrolysate was compared with extract. The results showed the strong antioxidant activity in hydrolysate (96%) than extract (82%). In addition, hydrolysate of peony flower showed higher inhibitory activity of NO release than extract. UVA assay using fibroblast cell (CCD-986Sk) showed that hydrolysate increased cell viability than extract under UVA exposure. Based on these results, we anticipate that hydrolysate of peony flower can be used a valuable cosmetic ingredient.

Key Words

peony, hydrolysis, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-photoaging

김하연 Ha Yeon Kim , 이재석 Jae Seok Lee , 이소헌 So Hun Lee , 김예향 Ye Hyang Kim , 정은영 Eun Young Jeong , 이강혁 Kang Hyuk Lee , 신송석 Song Seok Shin

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Abstract

Recently, there has been a growing interest in the development of safer and more effective soothing materials to calm skin that has become sensitive to various external factors. The aim of this study was to investigate the skin soothing and anti-inflammatory effects of COMPAREX compared to Portulaca Oleracea extract. The results showed that COMPAREX significantly inhibited LPS-induced NO production and the expression of inflammatory factors iNOS, COX-2, TNF-α, and IL-6 more than P. oleracea extract. In addition, COMPAREX has been confirmed to have a more effective sedative effect by further inhibiting the gene and protein expression of IL-1α against SDS stimulation than the Portulaca Oleracea extract. Furthermore, COMPAREX inhibited the expression of inflammatory factors COX-2 and IL-8 increased by PM_2.5 and suppressed H₂O₂-mediated carbonylated protein in hair cell. These results suggest that COMPAREX has shown the potential to be used as an improved natural soothing material over P. oleracea extract, and it is expected to be used as a derma cosmetic material in the future.

Key Words

COMPAREX, skin soothing, anti-inflammation, Portulaca oleracea extract

이혜원 Hye Won Lee , 김유아 You Ah Kim , 박병준 Byoung Jun Park , 한상근 Sang Keun Han

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Abstract

Fraxinus rhynchophylla Hance (F. rhynchophylla) is a traditional medicinal plant that has been widely used in East Asia and has been used for chronic bronchitis, bacterial dysentery and improved eyesight. F. rhynchophylla contains various type of coumarins such as esculin, esculetin, fraxin and fraxetin. Esculetin possesses versatile activities including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer properties and improvement of atopic dermatitis. However, there is no research on the process of increasing active components in F. rhynchophylla. The objectives of the present study were to apply biotransformation technology to F. rhynchophylla for increasing the content of esculetin, and enhancing anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities. F. rhynchophylla extract (FRE) treated with viscozyme L (FRE-VL) showed 3.1 times higher content of esculetin than FRE, and exhibited effects such as increased anti-inflammatory activity and DPPH radical scavenging activity. Based on the these results, it is concluded that biotransformed FRE-VL could be potentially applicable as a new active ingredient in the cosmetic field.

Key Words

Fraxinus rhynchophylla, esculetin, viscozyme L, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant

차화준 Hwa Jun Cha

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Abstract

In this study, the anti-inflammation efficacy of Lactobacillus johnsonii derived from Kimchi was investigated. Raw 264.7 cells, which are rat-derived macrophages, were treated with Lactobacillus johnsonii lysate to confirm the expression level of TNFα and IL1β, which are inflammatory markers, and when treating 250 μg/mL extract, the exp ression level of TNFα and IL1β decreased by 40.55% and 34.66% compared to the control group treated with 1 μg/mL LP, respectively. In addition, as a result of confirming the transcriptional activity of NF-κB, a key transcription factor in cytokine expression by LPS, it was confirmed that the transcriptional activity of NF-κB was 40.76% inhibited compared to the control group treated with 1 μg/mL LPS. Therefore, the results of this study confirmed that Lactobacillus johnsonii lysate is likely to be an anti-inflammatory or skin-soothing functional material by preventing the expression of cytokine by LPS and controlling NF-κB transcriptional activity.

Key Words

Lactobacillus johnsonii, NF-κB, inflammation, skin calming