김예지 Ye Ji Kim , 한상우 Sang Woo Han , 이소민 So Min Lee , 차병선 Byungsun Cha , 허효진 Hyojin Heo , Sofia Brito , Lei Lei , 이상훈 Sang Hun Lee , 천유연 You-yeon Chun , 조하현 Ha Hyeon Jo , 김형묵 Hyung Mook Kim , 곽병문 Byeong-mun Kwak , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we would like to study the stabilization of the high content of ceramide formulation by containing cyclodextrin. Ceramide, which constitutes the intercellular lipid, a human skin barrier, is a very important ingredient in moisturizing maintenance by protecting moisture in the skin and strengthening the skin barrier. However, since ceramide is poorly soluble, even if it is included in the cosmetic formulation, it has a problem that it is slowly gelled or crystallized and deposited over time, making it difficult to containing a high amount of ceramide. Cyclodextrin is a cyclic oligosaccharide connected with glucose molecules and has a cylindrical structure with hydrophilic outer surface and hydrophobic inner surface, which is known to improve the physicochemical properties of drugs such as improving solubility and absorption of poorly soluble drugs. We demonstrated the stability of the formulation containing high amount of ceramide by measuring hardness and observing emulsion drops with polarized microscope. This study also demonstrated that the high-content ceramide formulation containing cyclodextrin has the effect of preventing gelation or crystallization of ceramide, thus having excellent environmental conditions stability and skin moisturization.

Key Words

cyclodextrin, ceramide, skin barrier, moisturizing, emulsion

김혜진 Hye Jin Kim , 최우석 Woo Seok Choi , 이준섭 June Seob Lee , 김자영 Ja Young Kim , 김무한 Moo-han Kim , 이창현 Chang Hyeon Lee

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Abstract

In this study, to explore the possibility of using discarded by-products of corn as a wrinkle-improving functional material, the active ingredient contained in each part including kernel, cob, husk, and silk of 10 varieties of chodang and waxy corn was identified and the content was analyzed to suggest the possibility of corn by-products as upcycling materials. As a result of evaluating the collagen synthesis efficacy of extracts by part, the cob in chodang and waxy corns showed significant activity at 100 μg/mL concentration of 176.5 and 140.0%, respectively. The LC-MS/MS qualitative analysis resulted in the identification of 18 components in the cob, of which N, N'-diferuloylputrescine (DFP) was selected as an active ingredient, and the quantitative analysis was conducted by variety and part. As a result, DFP was confirmed only in the cob and kernel, and it was most frequently detected in the cob of the Goldsugar of chodang corn (39.6 μg/g) and Daehakchal of waxy corn (38.4 μg/g). The c ob i s a b y-product left over from grain removal, and is expected to create new added value as a material that promotes collagen synthesis. Through this study, we propose the possibility of using discarded cob as a wrinkle-improving functional material.

Key Words

Zea mays L, by-products, DFP, wrinkle-improving functional materials, upcycling

김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 김소희 So Hee Kim , 김미애 Mi Ae Kim , 고미선 Mi Sun Ko , 신찬성 Chan Seong Shin , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

In this study, the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative activities were compared for the extracts of non-fermented Ligustrum japonicum f ruits (LJF) and fermented counterparts. Use o f Latilactobacillus curvatus (L. curvatus) and Weissella minor (W. minor), isolated from the Jeju Chromis notata, as fermented strains led to the extracts of LJF-LC and LJF-WM in this experiment. The yield of each fermented extract (LJF-LC and LJF-WM) was 40.5 ～ 46.0%, higher than 29.5% of non-fermented extract (LJF). As a result of an activity experiment using RAW 264.7 macrophages stimulated by lipopolysaccaride (LPS), it was confirmed that LJF-WM, a fermented extract, has an excellent effect of inhibiting NO production in a concentration-dependent manner without cytotoxicity. Upon the screening of DPPH and ABTS+radical scavenging activities, the fermented LJF-LC and LJF-WM showed comparable to the non-fermented LJF. In the study of cell protection effect using HaCaT keratinocytes damaged by hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), the fermented LJF-WM indicated protective effect against oxidative stress. In addition, quantitative analysis of a major constituent salidroside by HPLC indicated about 15.6 mg/g for the LJF-LC and 13.9 mg/g for the LJF-WM, which were higher than that of non-fermented LJF (12.0 mg/g). Based on these results, it was suggested that the fermented extract from L. japonicum fruits could be used as a natural cosmetics material with anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative effects.

Key Words

Ligustrum japonicum, fermentation, anti-inflammation, anti-oxidation, cell protective effect

김보경 Bo Kyung Kim , 김원형 Won Hyung Kim , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

In this study, minoxidil, which is well known as a pharmaceutical raw material, and diaminopyrimidine oxide (DAO), which is a cosmetic raw material, were used as active ingredients to evaluate the physical properties of niosomes and compare the skin penetrations of artificial skin. To prepare niosomes of the size of nanoparticles, a high pressure homogenization method was used, and physical properties were evaluated with a zetasizer. The particle size of the niosome including the active ingredient was measured to be 99 to 123 nm according to HLB, and the zeta potential was measured in the range of -60 to -81 mV. Through DSC (differential scanning colorimetry), it was confirmed that minoxidil, a crystalline component, was uniformly dissolved in an amorphous state in niosomes. In order to confirm and compare skin penetration, it was measured by the in vitro Franz diffusion cell method, and the niosome formulation showed 3.4 times higher penetration for minoxidil and 11.1 times higher penetration for DAO than the control gel formulation. In addition, when comparing the skin penetration of minoxidil niosome and DAO niosome, a similar trend was shown, and the penetration amount of DAO was relatively high. The shapes of the niosome formulations with different HLB values were observed using Cryo-TEM, and it was confirmed that vesicles were formed in all of them and that they were intermediate between SUV (small unilamella vesicle) and LUV (large unilamella vesicle). Through this study, minoxidil, an effective drug for hair loss, and DAO, a cosmetic raw material, can be effectively delivered to the skin by encapsulating them in a niosome formulation.

Key Words

minoxidil, diaminopyrimidine oxide, niosome, skin penetration, Franz diffusion cell

노호식 Ho Sik Rho

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Abstract

The efficient use of a chiral shift agent (3) containing bifunctional group (thiourea and tertiary amine) for the determination of the enantiomeric purity of racemic mixture (Hemiesters) has been studied. The diastereomeric complexes derived from a chiral shift agent (3) with various hemiesters gave rise to well separate signals of the methoxy protons of hemiesters. Good splitting signals for enantiomers of hemiesters in 1 H NMR are originated form the hydrogen bonds between carbonyl groups of hemiester and bifunctional groups of a chiral shift agent (3) such as thiourea moiety and tertiary amine. This study provides a quick and simple way to determine the chiral purity of hemiester using chiral transfer agent (3).

Key Words

chiral shift agent, thiourea, tertiary amine, hemiesters

이은희 Eun-hee Lee , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

Centella asiatica extract is widely used as a raw material for cosmetics due to its various effects, but it is difficult to expect penetration into the skin due to its high molecular weight and low solubility. In order to solve these problems, lipid-based liposomes of various types were developed to increase skin absorption. Therefore, in this study, we tried to increase the skin absorption rate by preparing transfersomes using surfactants as edge activators in existing liposomes. Liposome and transfersomes containing Span 80 and Tween 20, 60, 80, and 85, respectively, were prepared using a high-pressure homogenizer, and we evaluated the particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, and skin absorption rate. As a result, there was almost no change in the physical properties of particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential from 25 ℃ to 60 d, and the particle size of transfersomes containing Tween 20, 60, and 80 increased after 60 d at 45 ℃. Madecassoside, main substances of the Centella asiatica extract was used as an standard and madecassoside was measured and calculated when measuring the skin absorption rate using Franz diffusion cells. As a result, formulations containing Tween 20 were the most, whereas formulations containing Span 80 were the least. According to the skin absorption coefficient (Kp) value, all formulations showed 'very fast', and the absorption rate was similar or greater than that of liposomes, except for formulations containing Span 80. Through this, it was confirmed that the larger the HLB value of the nonionic surfactant, the smaller the particle size of the transfersome, and the increased skin absorption rate due to the increased flexibility of the vesicle membrane. Through this study, transfersome using surfactant as an edge activator can be expected to solve local skin problems not only as a cosmetic raw material or product, but also by increasing skin absorption.

Key Words

Centella asiatica, edge activator, liposome, transfersome, skin absorption

왕성은 Sung Eun Wang , 윤정경 Jung Kyung Yoon , 정귀수 Gui Su Chung , 계성봉 Sung Bong Kye , 노호식 Ho Sik Rho , 정대수 Dae Soo Jung

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Abstract

Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) is commonly used in sunscreen formulations to protect the skin surface and prevent the penetration of harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays by the physical scattering action of light. However, a disadvantage of using TiO₂ is that it can cause white turbidity when used on skin due to its inactive mineral ingredient. In addition, when TiO₂ particles are reduced to nanosize to eliminate opacity, they can increase the transmittance of visible light and reduce whitening, but may lead to serious skin problems, such as allergic inflammation. To overcome these issues, the bandgap of TiO₂ was controlled by adjusting the amount of oxygen defect and nitrogen amount, resulting in color TiO₂ tailored to the skin. This innovative technology can reduce the whitening phenomenon and effectively block blue light, which is known to cause skin aging by inducing active oxygen. The bandgap controlled TiO₂ compounds proposed in this study are hypoallergenic, broad-spectrum, and environmentally friendly. Furthermore, these compounds have been shown to significantly enhance sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreens, demonstrating their compatibility with blue light blocking products.

Key Words

titanium oxide, bandgap engineering, inorganic pigment, cosmetics, sunscreen

김동명 Dong-myong Kim , 김원진 Won-jin Kim , 이형곤 Hyung-kon Lee , 권용성 Yong-seong Kwon , 최연매 Yeon-mea Choi

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Abstract

In this study, stem cells were extracted from the callus derived from the aloe cambium, and the antioxidant activity and effect of skin elasticity improvement were assessed. The aloe cambium-derived stem cell extract, AloStem and callus showed the survival rate of each 98.27% and 71.31%. In the results of the DPPH antioxidant activity of AloStem and aloe extract, it was confirmed that the antioxidant effect of AloStem was more than twice that of Aloe extract. AloStem did not affect the cytotoxicity of normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) cells up to 0.25% concentration. Also, AloStem increased elastin, COL1A1 and HAS2 mRNA expression levels dose-dependently. Furthermore, to examine lifting effect of skin elasticity using a sheet mask containing AloStem, 21 adult men and women applied the sheet mask in the face, once a day for 2 weeks. As a result, after 2 weeks the skin length was 116.75 ± 5.58 mm before the use of the sheet mask, but after 2 weeks of use, it was confirmed that 0.59% increased to 117.44 ± 5.17 mm. Thus, we concluded that the sheet mask containing AloStem can help the lifting effect of skin elasticity.

Key Words

aloe, cambium, stem cell, antioxidant activity, skin elasticity

이명렬 Myeongryeol Lee , 정유철 Yuchul Jung , 서병휘 Byung-fhy Suh , 김은주 Eunjoo Kim

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Abstract

Since facial skin pigmentation is one of the visual characteristics of skin aging, it is important to evaluate skin pigmentation in the cosmetics and aesthetic fields. Several groups have investigated and developed the image analysis methods for skin pigmentation and some of the groups reported the age-related changes of the number and size of facial pigmented spots. However, they didn’t show the changes of the number and size of pigment spots by defined size, and there is no report for Korean female regarding pigmentation. A total of 194 Korean females aged 20 ~ 79 (48.97 ± 17.11 years) were analyzed for the number, size, and intensity of pigmented spots using various filters such as large high-pass filter and median filter in their digital facial images. There were significant correlations between age and total pigmented spot number (No.), size, and intensity (I) (pearson’s correlation coefficient r = 0.688, r = 0.645, r = -0.563), and significant correlations were also observed between the number and intensity of pigmented spots of different sizes. According to the ANOVA results, there were significant differences in the percentage of spot size of 2 ~ 4 mm² and > 20 mm² between 20’s and 70’s. In other words, with aging, pigmentation increases in the facial skin, and the large increase in pigmentation is particularly noticeable in Korean women.

Key Words

pigmented spot, image analysis, aging symptom

조성미 Seong Mi Cho , 원유림 Yu Rim Won , 박진오 Jin Oh Park , 이혜자 Hye Ja Lee

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory activity, whitening, moisturizing, wound-healing, cell proliferation and cell protective effects of 70% EtOH and hot water extract from Scutellaria baicalensis. For the anti-oxidative test, the 70% EtOH and hot water extract showed DPPH radical scavenging activities. In the anti-inflammatory tests, 70% EtOH and hot water extract inhibited the production of NO, pro-inflammatory cytokine (IL-6) and prostaglandin (PGE2). In addition, it was confirmed that the 70% EtOH and hot water extract inhibited the melanin production, and increased production of hyaluronic acid (HA), a moisturizing factor. As a result of cell migration and proliferation assay, 70% EtOH extract promoted the cell growth in HaCaT cell. Additionally, 70% EtOH and hot water extract showed cell protective effects against UVB, and 70% EtOH extract also showed cell protective effects agianst blue light. Based on these results, it is concluded that the 70% EtOH and hot water extract from Scutellaria baicalensis could be potentially applicable as anti-oxdiative, anti-inflammation, whitening, moisturizing, wound-healing, cell proliferation and cell protective effects in cosmetic natural materials.

Key Words

Scutellaria baicalensis, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, wound healing, UVB