이석주 Seok-ju Lee , 김민태 Min-tae Kim , 이소민 So Min Lee , 정소영 So Young Jung , Sofia Brito , 허효진 Hyojin Heo , 차병선 Byungsun Cha , 이상훈 Sang Hun Lee , Lei Lei , 조하현 Ha Hyeon Jo , 천유연 You-yeon Chun , 김예지 Ye Ji Kim , 이미기 Mi-gi Lee , 곽병문 Byeong-mun Kwak , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin

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Abstract

This study focused on the development of a vegetable recombinated oil to mimic the animal-derived mink oil. Various vegetable oils and fatty acid substrates were mixed and an immobilized enzyme was utilized in the reaction to synthesize a plant-derived mink oil through deacidification and purification processes. The chemical composition and thermal properties of the recombined oil were confirmed using gas chromatography and differential scanning calorimetry. Our results show a high similarity between mink oil and our synthesized plant-derived mink oil, revealing the potential of utilizing vegetable alternatives for the substitution of animal raw materials, which have been gradually discontinued as cosmetic ingredients.

Key Words

mink oil, MO, vegetable oil, plant-derived, immobilized enzyme, cosmetic ingredient

박남완 Nam-yoan Park , 한동근 Dong-geun Han , 갈격 Ge-ge , 배민준 Min-jun Bae , 김현정 Hyun-jeong Kim , 김세기 Se-gie Kim , 최은영 Eun-young Choi , 안봉전 Bong-jeon An

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Abstract

In this study, we tried to verify the value of the use of Mucuna pruriens (M. pruriens) extract as an antioxidant functional cosmetic material based on natural materials. After extracting, concentrating, and freeze-drying M. pruriens with water, 70% ethanol, and 70% acetone as solvents, samples of powdered hydrothermal extract (MW), 70% ethanol extract (ME), and 70% acetone extract (MA) were prepared. As a result of analyzing antioxidant activity through DPPH radical scavenging activity, ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activity, SOD-like activity, reduction ability, total phenol and flavonoid content analysis using MW, ME, and MA, all showed excellent antioxidant effects. Therefore, it is believed that M. pruriens extract is highly likely to be used as a natural material for antioxidant-related functional cosmetics.

Key Words

Mucuna pruriens, antioxidant, phenol, flavonoid, cosmetic material

손수빈 Su-bin Son , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

A study was performed to increase skin permeation of tocopheryl acetate, an oil-soluble component among tocopheryl acetate, salicylic acid, and niacinamide, which are the active ingredients of the anti-hair loss toner. As a method of transparently solubilizing tocopheryl acetate while containing salicyl acid and niacinamide, we used a swollen micelle structure that increased the size of the micelle formed by the aggregation of surfactants. The prepared swollen micelle solution contains three kinds of active ingredients, and poloxamer 407 and octyldodeceth-16 were used as surfactants to increase transparent properties and stability. In addition, isostearic acid was used as a co-surfactant to increase the size of micelles. To evaluate the physical properties of the prepared swollen micelles, turbidity at room temperature (25 ℃) was measured. The Franz diffusion cell method was used to evaluate the skin permeation rate of tocopheryl acetate among the hair-loss prevention components contained in swollen micelles. After 24 h, tocopheryl acetate showed a 6-fold improvement in skin permeation compared to the control group. Therefore, it can be seen that the swollen micelles developed in this study can be applied to hair-loss prevention products or solubilized formulations of various functional cosmetics.

Key Words

swollen micelle, anti-hair loss, tocopheryl acetate, poloxamer 407, Franz diffusion cell

한동근 Dong-geun Han , 배민준 Min-jun Bae , 갈격 Ge-ge , 김현정 Hyun-jeong Kim , 김세기 Se-gie Kim , 안봉전 Bong-jeon An

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Abstract

In this study, the correlation between recycled plastic pellets and the antioxidant efficacy of the extract of Mucuna pruriens (M. pruriens) was verified. After immersing recycled plastic pellets in M. pruriens extracts, they were stored for 30 days under various temperature conditions, and then analyzed for DPPH radical and ABTS⁺ radical erasing ability, SOD-like activity, total phenol and flavonoid content. Compared to the existing efficacy, DPPH radical elimination showed less than 30% activity change in ECOTRIA and PCR-PP pellets, and the largest decrease in activity of 46.06% was confirmed in Grico pellets. As a result of measuring ABTS⁺ radical erasure ability, less than 5% of efficacy change was confirmed in all pellets. As a result of measuring SOD-like activity, all showed a decrease in activity of more than 30%, and as a result of measuring the total phenol and flavonoid content, all pellets showed a tendency to decrease compared to the existing content. Through this results, it was confirmed that the physiological activity of M. pruriens extract decreased and changed by recycled plastic pellets, and based on the results of this study, recycled plastic pellets are believed to affect the existing efficacy and activity stability of M. pruriens extract.

Key Words

Mucuna pruriens, antioxidant, ECOTRIA, PCR-PP, Grico

유경완 Kyung Wan Yoo , 이소민 So Min Lee , 정소영 So Young Jung , 허효진 Hyojin Heo , 차병선 Byungsun Cha , Sofia Brito , Lei Lei , 이상훈 Sang Hun Lee , 천유연 You-yeon Chun , 조하현 Ha Hyeon Jo , 김예지 Ye Ji Kim , 이미기 Mi-gi Lee , 곽병문 Byeong-mun Kwak , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin

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Abstract

In this study, Crocus chrysanthus (Herb.) Herb. bulb extracts were extracted by purified water and ethanol, and their antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activity were measured to see the possibility as a cosmetic material. The yield of the extracts was 1.8% to 6.0%, and the yield decreased as the ethanol concentration increased. DPPH free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activity was high at 91.97% at 625 μg/mL of 70% ethanol extract. The total phenol content was also measured at 447 mg/g, higher than other extraction methods. The whitening effect was confirmed through in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory activity. As the ethanol concentration of the extracts increased, the tyrosinase inhibitory activity increased, and 70% and 94.5% ethanol extracts showed high inhibitory activity. Therefore, the Crocus chrysanthus (Herb.) Herb. bulb extracts confirmed its potential as a cosmetic material through antioxidant and whitening effects.

Key Words

Crocus chrysanthus, Herb, Herb, bulb, extraction, whitening, antioxidant activity, total phenol

임준우 Jun Woo Lim , 김예림 Yerim Kim , 정지민 Jimin Jeong , 권지은 Ji-eun Kwon , 조성현 Seong-hyun Jo , 장진동 Jindong Jang , 박준수 Junsu Park , 김윤곤 Yun-gon Kim , 정재현 Jae Hyun Jeong

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Abstract

Recently, along with the remarkable increase in interest in microbiome cosmetics, the application of microbiome extracts in the complex efficacy as anti-aging, brightening etc. has become very important. In this study, Bifidobacterium bifidum (B. bifidum), which has excellent anti-wrinkle efficacy among the microbiome, was selected through an in vitro test using cells and 3D human skin equivalents. And the anti-wrinkle efficacy of cosmetics containing B. bifidum was evaluated by clinical test. Thereafter, the cytotoxicity, anti-oxidation, anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle efficacy of the of the bifida fermented filtrate were tested. An emulsion containing bifida fermented filtrate at a concentration of 5% (v/v) with no cytotoxicity and excellent efficacy was prepared with the placebo emulsion. The clinical test was conducted on a total of 21 women at 2 weeks comparing the bifida emulsion and placebo emulsion. Wrinkles around the eyes were instrumentally evaluated using Antera 3D. The wrinkle reduction rate of the Bifida emulsion group compared with the placebo emulsion group differed by 5.6%. Overall, the selection of microbiome using 3D human skin equivalents and the efficacy study of cosmetics with the microbiome extracts would be actively studied to the development of microbiome cosmetics and skin microbiome mechanisms.

Key Words

microbiome, Bifidobacterium bifidum, 3D human skin equivalents, emulsion, skin wrinkle

서가연 Gayeon Seo , 문지연 Jiyeon Moon , 박유경 Yukyung Park , 김주영 Juyeong Kim , 현호용 Hoyong Hyun , 정범수 Beomsu Jeong , Thet Thet Mar Win , Thant Zaw Win , 최상호 Sangho Choi , 엄상미 Sangmi Eum , 김동원 Dongwon Kim

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Abstract

We validated the physiological activity of Syzygium claviflorum (Roxb.) Wall. ex A.M. Cowan & Cowan (S. claviflorum) extracts (leaves, stems, fruits, and flowers) as a cosmetic ingredient. Firstly, S. claviflorum extracts removed over 80% of free radicals at various concentrations in antioxidant experiments using the DPPH and ABTS assay. In cytotoxicity experiments using human epidermal keratinocytes, S. claviflorum extracts showed low cytotoxicity. In addition, S. claviflorum extracts significantly increased the expression of keratin (KRT)1, KRT2, KRT9, KRT10, which are differentiation markers of keratinocytes, as well as genes involved in the maintenance of skin barrier function, including involucrin (IVL), loricrin (LOR), filaggrin (FLG), and claudin1 (CLDN1). In particular, the expression of FLG protein, inhibited by interleukin (IL)-4/IL-13 in atopic dermatitis, was restored by S. claviflorum extracts in in vitro experiments. Therefore, S. claviflorum extracts with excellent antioxidant efficacy and skin barrier improvement function will be useful materials for the development of future atopic dermatitis treatments and cosmetics.

Key Words

Syzygium claviflorum, antioxidant, keratinocytes, filaggrin, atopic dermatitis

곽준수 Jun Soo Kwak , 정소영 So Young Jung , 이소민 So Min Lee , 이석주 Seok-ju Lee , Sofia Brito , 차병선 Byungsun Cha , 허효진 Hyojin Heo , Lei Lei , 이상훈 Sang Hun Lee , 조하현 Ha-hyeon Jo , 천유연 You-yeon Chun , 김예지 Ye Ji Kim , 김형묵 Hyung Mook Kim , 이미기 Mi-gi Lee , 곽병문 Byeong-mun Kwak , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin

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Abstract

In this study, for a natural cosmetics market, we sought to explore alternatives that can replace polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) of peel-off packs. A peel-off type pack was prepared by combining pullulan, a water-soluble polysaccharide, and other polysaccharides (sodium hyaluronate, cellulose gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium alginate, corn starch), and the pH, viscosity, and stability against temperature of each peel-off type pack were confirmed. The thickness and tensile strength of the manufactured film were measured for comparison with the PVA peel-off type pack, and applicability, drying speed, and removal degree were measured. Among them, the pullulan-sodium hyaluronate peel-off type pack showed excellent film formation ability to replace the peel-off type pack containing PVA with 5.12% thin film thickness and 4.23% high film tensile strength. When applied to actual skin, the degree of spread of the pack, the usability that can be uniformly applied, and the formation and removal strength of the film when removed after drying were also similar to the peel-off type pack containing PVA. Therefore, it was confirmed that the film formed of pullulan-sodium hyaluronate showed enough physical properties to replace the PVA of the peel-off type pack as a natural peel-off type pack.

Key Words

pullulan, sodium hyaluronate, polysaccharides, natural cosmetics, peel-off pack

김민웅 Min Woong Kim , 이응지 Eung Ji Lee , 길하나 Ha-na Gil , 정용지 Yong Ji Chung , 김은미 Eun Mi Kim

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Abstract

This study was conducted to assess the effect of heptapeptide, composed of seven amino acids, on the activation of human hair cells isolated from human hair follicles. We have confirmed that the heptapeptide could bind to Lgr5 from the results of surface plasmon resonance (SPR) analysis. Heptapeptide enhanced the proliferation of human hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HHFDPCs) in a dose dependent manner. It induced the protein level of nuclear β-catenin, and the expressions of β-catenin downstream target genes, including LEF1, Cyc-D1 and c-Myc, in HHFDPCs. Heptapeptide significantly induced the phosphorylation of Akt and ERK, and the mRNA expressions of growth factors, including hepatocyte growth factor (HGF), keratinocyte growth factor (KGF) and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), in HHFDPCs. In addition, heptapeptide significantly increased mRNA expression levels of differentiation-related transcription factors of human hair germinal matrix cells (HHGMCs) and differentiation markers of human hair outer root sheath cells (HHORSCs). Additionally, we investigated the effect of heptapeptide on human hair follicle stem cells (HHFSCs) differentiation and found that the heptapeptide reduced the mRNA and protein levels of stem cell markers, while it increased those levels of differentiation markers. These results have indicated that the heptapeptide promotes proliferation or differentiation of various types of hair follicle constituent cells through the induction of Wnt/β-catenin signaling. From the results, we have suggested that the heptapeptide in this study could be applied as a new functional material for the improvement of hair growth and alopecia.

Key Words

heptapeptide, human hair follicle, Lgr5, Wnt, β-catenin

박노준 No-june Park , 봉심규 Sim-kyu Bong , 박상아 Sang-a Park , 박기현 Gi Hyun Park , 고영철 Young Chul Ko , 김혜원 Hae Won Kim , 김수남 Su-nam Kim

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Abstract

This study was conducted to discover substances that regulate skin surface acidification using human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines, and to investigate their effects on the moisturizing ability and skin barrier function of the stratum corneum. Prunella vulgaris (P. vulgaris) is an herb widely distributed in Northwest Africa and North America that has been studied for its anti-apoptotic, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects. However, research on the regulation of NHE1 expression and the restoration of skin barrier function has not been conducted. Analysis of P. vulgaris revealed the presence of rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid as active ingredients, which were tested for toxicity in human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines (HaCaT), and showed no toxic effects were observed at high concentarion (100 μg/mL or 100 μM). It is known that sodium-hydrogen ion exchange pumps (NHE1) decrease in expression in aging skin to maintain the acidic pH of the stratum corneum, and it is hypothesized that this decrease plays an important role in the impaired restoration of skin barrier function in aging skin. P. vulgaris extract and caffeic acid increased the expression of NHE1 in keratinocytes, increased the expression of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) precursor filaggrin and ceramide synthesis enzyme serine palmitoyl transferase (SPT). In addition, P. vulgaris and caffeic acid decreased the extracellular pH of keratinocytes, indicating a direct effect on skin pH regulation. Taken together, these results suggest that P. vulgaris and caffeic acid can regulate skin pH through NHE1 modulation, and may help to restore skin barrier function by increasing NMF and ceramide synthesis. These results show the possibility that honeysuckle and caffeic acid can have a positive effect on skin health, and can be the basis for the development of new skin protection products using them.

Key Words

skin pH, Na^{+, H+ exchanger 1, NHE1, filaggrin, serine palmitoyl transferase, SPT, Prunella vulgaris, caffeic acid}