홍창의 Chang-eui Hong , 유수연 Su-yun Lyu

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidant, anti-aging, and skin whitening effects of Korean mistletoe (Viscum album var. coloratum). The mistletoe fraction was composed of four types: hexane (HX), ethyl acetate (EA), butanol (BU), and methylene chloride (MC). In total phenol content assay, HX showed the highest phenol content among four fractions. In addition, EA significantly increased 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging and catalase-like activities, and MC significantly increased superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity. When we compared IC50 value in the hyaluronidase and elastase inhibition assay, MC had the lowest IC50. In addition, we also performed tyrosinase inhibition assay to demonstrate the possibility of Korean mistletoe as a cosmetic component. HX showed the highest tyrosinase inhibition rate among the fractions.

Key Words

korean mistletoe, viscum album var. coloratum, anti-oxidant, anti-aging, whitening

김도규 Do Gyu Kim , 이지연 Ji Yeon Lee , 문소현 Sohyun Mun , 김유경 Yukyung Kim , 김나리 Nari Kim , 정아름 Ah Reum Jung , 장준환 Jun-hwan Jang , 이재섭 Jae-soeb Lee , 한상배 Sang Bae Han , 배준태 Jun-tae Bae

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Abstract

In this study, Cyperus rotundus (C. rotundus) was fractionated into ethyl acetate to identify α-cyperone, a representative indicator, and its ethyl acetate fraction were evaluated to confirm the possibilityas a functional cosmetic ingredient. As a result of HPLC analysis, it was confirmed that the content of α-cyperone was 5.243%. In order to verify the inflammatory relief effect of the ethyl acetate fraction from C. rotundus (EAFC) and α-cyperone, it was confirmed that nitric oxide (NO) production inhibitory ability in RAW 264.7 macrophages induced an inflammatory reaction with lipopolysaccharide (LPS). Real-time qPCR analysis confirmed inhibition of mRNA expression level of inflammatory factors, IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α, COX-2 and iNOS. As a results of conducting a clinical study using a simple cosmetic formulation containing EAFC, it was confirmed that the skin irritation stimulated by sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) was calming and relieving itching. Through these results, it is believed that the C. rotundus can be used as a natural cosmetic ingredient that has the effect of inhibiting inflammation and relieving itching.

Key Words

Cyperus rotundus, alpha-cyperone, anti-inflammatory, nitric oxide, RAW 264.7

유성동 Sung Dong Yu , 김혜림 Hye Lim Kim , 성기준 Ki Jun Seong , 전정태 Jung Tae Jeon , 송애리 Ae Ri Song , 강종수 Jong Soo Kang , 박일범 Il Bum Park

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Abstract

In this study, the stability of cream containing 1% of cannabidiol (CBD) with more than 99% extracted from domestic Cannabis sativa was evaluated. The pH, hardness, content, and chromaticity were measured at intervals of 2 weeks under storage conditions for each temperature for 12 weeks (4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃, and 45 ℃). The pH of the experimental group containing 1% of CBD tended to decrease more than that of the control group. As a result of measuring the change in the content of CBD in the cream under each temperature for 12 weeks using HPLC, the difference in the amount of decrement according to temperature was confirmed. It was confirmed that as a result of measuring the chromaticity using color difference meter, the yellowness of the cream containing CBD increased according to the increase by the storage period and temperature compared to the control group. From the above results, it was confirmed that the content decrease and color change according to the temperature of the pH 5 ～ 6 cream formulation containing CBD. When CBD is applied to medicine and cosmetic formulations in the future, it is considered that research and development should be conducted in consideration of the change in the quantity and physicochemical quality of CBD under the temperature.

Key Words

cannabis sativa l, cannabidiol, cream, stability, color

이민정 Min-jeong Lee , 김성수 Seong-soo Kim , 이윤정 Yun-jeong Lee , 이병철 Byeong-chul Lee

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Abstract

This study attempted to establish an optimal multi-compound simultaneous analysis method that can secure reliable results for 15 - preservatives, 2 - sun screens and 1 - antioxidants of cosmetics using HPLC-PDA. Since the potential of hydrogen (pH) in the mobile phase affects the acid dissociation constant (pKa) of the preservatives, and the peak retention time shift and area change were observed. The peak separation condition was established by adjusting the pH to 0.1% H₃PO₄ addition (mL) when preparing the mobile phase. As a results of method validation, the linearity correlation coefficient (R²) of above 0.999 were obtained, and accuracy 87.9 ～ 101.1%, 0.1 ～ 7.6% precision for two types of cosmetics (cream and shampoo). It was found that the limit of detection (LOD) was 0.1 ～ 0.2 mg/kg and the limit of quantitation (LOQ) was 2.0 ～ 4.0 mg/kg. In addition, it was possible to simultaneously separate p-anisic acid, a natural compound that was difficult to separate in HPLC due to the small difference from methylparaben, a synthetic preservatives. Through this study, it will be effectively used to secure quality control and safety for compound that need restrictions on use cosmetics.

Key Words

preservatives, pKa, pH, mobile phase, HPLC

김유나 Yuna Kim , 장영수 Youngsu Jang , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung

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Abstract

Obesity is one of the metabolic diseases caused by excessive differentiation and accumulation of adipose tissue due to an imbalance between energy intake and consumption. In this study, we investigated the anti-obesity effect of SliMax, a natural-derived 6 compounds mixture, by using 3T3-L1 cells. As a result, SliMax showed the inhibitory effect on adipocyte differentiation through down-regulation of the PPARγ and C/EBPα expression, which are known to regulate the late adipogenesis stage. In the process of lipolysis on differentiated 3T3-L1 cells, SliMax accelerated decomposition of large-sized unilocular lipid droplet into numerous small-sized multilocular lipid droplets through up-regulation of the expression of lipolysis-related proteins ATGL and HSL. Finally, in order to confirm the effect of SliMax on induction of brown adipocyte, the expression of UCP-1 and the amount of mitochondria were confirmed by immunofluorescent staining, and as a result, SliMax increased the expression of UCP-1 and the amount of mitochondria in fat cells. Taken together, those results suggest that SliMax, a naturally-derived mixture, have a potential to be anti-obesity agent through exerting inhibitory effect on the formation of lipid droplet by suppression of adipogenesis and stimulation of lipolysis, and browning effect associated with generation of heat energy and energy consumption.

Key Words

slimax, anti-obesity, adipogenesis, lipolysis, browning

김세연 Se-yeon Kim , 안형근 Hyung Guen An , 김자영 Ja Young Kim , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

Customized cosmetics are continuously mentioned as cosmetics in response to changes in the social environment and trends that emphasize individuality. Therefore, in this study, four types of nanoemulsion ampoules corresponding to skin types were prepared by different ratios of nanoemulsion formulation and ampoule formulation, and the applicability as a customized cosmetic base was checked. Particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, and viscosity according to time for 90 d were measured for four nanoemulsion ampoules with different volatile residues, and turbiscan was measured as a method for evaluating the stability of a colloidal dispersion system. Finally, human usability satisfaction was evaluated. As a result, it was confirmed that four kinds of nanoemulsion ampoules had a higher amount of volatile residue in the dry skin test product than in the oily skin test product. The pH was in the range of 6.41 to 6.88, and the particle size was in the range of 170 to 174 nm, and the change after 90 d was within 1.2% of the maximum, and there was no specificity in particle size stability. It was confirmed that the polydispersity index was almost constant, and showed a particle size distribution close to monodispersity by showing a change within a value smaller than 0.21 in all test products. The zeta potential was initially -63 mV or more for all four types of test products, and although it showed a slight decrease with time, there was little change to the extent of a maximum decrease of 2.5%. Viscosity was initially in the range of 4,100 to 5,100 cps and showed a decreasing trend with time, showing a maximum decrease of 37.7%. In the turbiscan measurement, the turbiscan stability index, a measure of stability, was all below 1.0, indicating dispersion stability. In the usability satisfaction evaluation (6 points) of 4 nanoemulsion ampoules corresponding to skin type, oily skin product (5.42 ± 0.67 points) > neutral oily skin product (5.36 ± 0.67 points) > neutral dry skin product (5.15 ± 0.69 point) > dry skin product (4.75 ± 0.75 points) in the order of evaluation. Four types of nanoemulsion ampoules are physically stable and have confirmed their applicability as a customized cosmetic base according to skin type, and are expected to expand in various ways.

Key Words

customized cosmetics, nanoemulsion ampoule, turbiscan, skin type, satisfaction evaluation

갈격 Ge-ge , 한동근 Dong-geun Han , 김현정 Hyun-jeong Kim , 최은영 Eun-young Choi , 안봉전 Bong-jeon An

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Abstract

In this study, antioxidant efficacy was analyzed to verify the value of use as an antioxidant-related functional cosmetic material using Cheongtaejeon tea extract. Cheongtaejeon tea was extracted, concentrated, and freeze-dried with hot water and 70% ethanol as a solvent to prepare samples, and then ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activity, electron donating ability, SOD-like ability, reducing power, ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), total phenolic, and flavonoid contents were analyzed. In the ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activity experiment, both the Cheongtaejeon hydrothermal extract (CTW) and the Cheongtaejeon 70% ethanol extract (CTE) showed erasure activity of more than 98% at a concentration of 1,000 μg/mL, and in the electron donating analysis experiment, CTW and CTE, respectively, 42.20% and 78.82%. As a result of SOD-like activity measurement, activity of 39.73% and 67.39% of CTW and CTE, respectively, was confirmed. In the case of FRAP and reducing power experiments, both CTW and CTE showed high effects, and as a result of analyzing the total phenol and flavonoid contents, both CTW and CTE showed high contents. Based on the results of the experiment, the Cheongtaejeon tea extract is expected to have a highly valuable as a functional cosmetics material related to antioxidants.

Key Words

chungtaejeon, free radical, antioxidant, polyphenol, flavonoid

차병선 Byungsun Cha , 이석주 Seok Ju Lee , Sofia Brito , 정소영 So Young Jung , 이소민 So Min Lee , Lei Lei , 이상훈 Sang Hun Lee , Zubaidah Al-khafaji , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin , 곽병문 Byeong-mun Kwak , 허효진 Hyojin Heo

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Abstract

Cellobiose is a dissacharide constituted by two glucose units joined by a β-(‘1,4’) glycosidic bond that is produced by the decomposition of cellulose. This product exists naturally in plants and has been utilized in different industries as a food sweetener, and as a cosmetic and pharmaceutical material. In this study, the potential of cellobiose as a whitening cosmetic product was evaluated by analyzing autophagy induction and the inhibition of melanin production. A cytotoxicity test conducted in the human melanin-producing cell line MNT-1 with increasing concentrations of cellobiose revealed that this compound did not cause cytotoxicity at 20 mg/mL or less. Based on this, autophagy was firstly evaluated by immunostaining with the autophagy marker microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3) after treatment with 20 mg/mL of cellobiose. The subsequent confocal microscopy analysis revealed an increase in LC3 puncta, indicating induction of autophagy. In addition, autophagy was further confirmed by western blot analysis, which demonstrated that cellobiose converted LC3-Ι to LC3-Π in a concentration- and time-dependent manners. An analysis of melanin contents after cellobiose treatment at a concentration of 20 mg/mL during 7 days revealed that melanin production was reduced by more than 50%. Additionally, the expression levels of melanogenesis-related proteins TYR and TYRP1 were markedly decreased after cellobiose treatment. Based on these studies, a cosmetic cream formulation containing cellobiose was prepared and the change in formulation was tested for 4 weeks, and it was confirmed that the appearance changed to liquid form at high temperature, but the pH did not change. In conclusion, the present research demonstrated that cellobiose activates autophagy and inhibits melanin production, and showed the potential of this product as a material for whitening cosmetics.

Key Words

cellobiose, natural product, autophagy, whitening, melanin

한지원 Jiwon Han , 남보미 Bomi Nam , 이범석 Beom Seok Lee , 고진아 Jin-a Ko , 황지영 Jiyoung Hwang

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Abstract

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcusﾠsessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcusﾠsieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 μg/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 μg/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 μg/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 μg/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.

Key Words

inflammation, skin barrier, anti-wrinkle, eleutherococcus genus, Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis

남개원 Gaewon Nam

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, keratin peptides were produced through high-temperature anaerobic fermentation of keratin, a protein contained in deer antler, with Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1, and factors related to human hair, confirming the possibility of keratin peptides as cosmetic ingredients. As a result of the cytotoxicity and proliferation of deer antler fermented keratin peptide according to the concentration in the dermal papilla cell line, cytotoxicity was not observed and the cell proliferation effect was shown. For human dermal papilla cells, statistically significant increasing in growth factors according to the deer antler fermented keratin peptide was determined possiblity of effects on hair growth. Cosmetic products containing deer antler fermented keratin peptides were manufactured and skin safety and anti hair loss efficacy clinical tests were conducted. As a result, after 12 weeks of use, the total number of hairs statistically significant increased compared to before using the product and the difference in total number of hairs compared to the control group was found. In conclusion, we suggest that the possibility of fermented deer antler keratin peptide as a cosmeceutical ingredient as well as a health functional food material was confirmed.

Key Words

fervidobacterium islandicum aw-1, deer antler, keratin peptide, hair, dermal papillar cell