여혜림 Hye Lim Yeo , 박인정 Injeong Park , 정소영 So Young Jung , 이소민 So Min Lee , 김형묵 Hyung Mook Kim , 이미기 Mi-gi Lee , 곽병문 Byeong-mun Kwak , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin

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Abstract

This study is about the development of transparent cleansing water with one of the beta-hydroxy acids (BHA), salicylic acid, and capryloyl salicylic acid, which is one of the lipo-hydroxy acids (LHA). Transparent appearance was stabilized by increasing the solubility of lipophilic salicylic acid and capryloyl salicylic acid in water using ethanol, polyol, and sodium hydroxide, and supplementing suspension and deposition using a double micelle structure of two types of PEG surfactants. Cleansing water applied with this technology was developed, and makeup removing ability and skin texture improvement ability were confirmed using an optical camera and an image analyzer. This solubilization technology is proposed as a new approach of LHA, which has been difficult to apply due to its low solubility in water, and is expected to help in the development of new chemical peeling products.

Key Words

lipo-hydroxy acid, beta-hydroxy acid, salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, solubilization

김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 고예린 Ye Rin Ko , 부석환 Suk Hwan Boo , 강성희 Sung Hee Kang , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

In this study, the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant efficacy of camellia subcritical water extracts (SWE, 135 ∼ 180 °C, 70 bar) was compared with 70% ethanol and hot water extracts. Among these extracts, the yield (57.9%) of the subcritical water extract, which was extracted under the condition of 180 °C and 70 bar was the highest, which increased the extraction yield by more than two times compared to the hot water extract (28.1%). The results of the nitric oxide (NO) production inhibition activity experiment using RAW 264.7 macrophages stimulated with lipopolysaccharide (LPS) showed that subcritical water extracts had superior effects in inhibiting the production of NO without cytotoxicity than 70% ethanol and hot water extracts. In addition, DPPH and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activity experiments showed that the radical scavenging activity of subcritical water extract was similar to that of 70% ethanol and hot water extract. Moreover, the content of gallic acid was determined by HPLC and the quantity was about 1.62 mg/g for the SWE (165 °C, 70 bar), which was the highest among all of the extracts. Based on these results, it is concluded the SWE of C. japonica flowers could be potentially applicable as anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

Key Words

Camellia japonica, subcritical water extract, anti-inflammation, anti-oxidation

정소영 So Young Jung , 유한준 Han Jun Yoo , 허효진 Hyojin Heo , 이소민 So Min Lee , Sofia Brito , 차병선 Byungsun Cha , Lei Lei , 이상훈 Sang Hun Lee , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin , 이미기 Mi-gi Lee , 곽병문 Byeong-mun Kwak

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Abstract

2'-fucosyllactose (2'-FL) is the most abundant human milk oligosaccharide (HMO) present in breast milk, promoting the growth of beneficial microorganisms in the gut and aiding in the relief of allergic and inflammatory reactions. In this study, the anti-melanogenic effects of 2'-FL, and its potential for application in whitening cosmetics, were evaluated. MTT assay was performed on MNT-1 cells, human-derived melanocytes. 2'-FL was treated and replaced at 48 h intervals for 7 days, and it was confirmed that there was no cytotoxicity at 20 g/L or less, while a 40% reduction in melanin production was also observed. Western blot analysis of TYR and TYRP1, factors involved in melanogenesis, revealed that 2'-FL treatment reduced their expression levels. In addition, 2'-FL application and observation of the autophagy marker microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3) revealed it was converted from LC3-Ι to LC3-Π, indicating increased autophagy. Likewise, confocal microscopy revealed an increase in LC3 puncta after 2'-FL treatment. Therefore, it is suggested that 2'-FL-mediated activation of autophagy reduces melanogenesis by inhibiting the expression levels of TYR and TYRP1 proteins. In conclusion, it has been confirmed that 2'-FL induces autophagy and suppresses melanin production, so its potential as a whitening cosmetic material is expected.

Key Words

2’-fucosyllactose (2’-FL), human milk oligosaccharides, autophagy, whitening, melanin

한동근 Dong-geun Han , 이주성 Ju-seong Lee , 갈격 Gyeok Gal , 박남완 Nam-wan Park , 김현정 Hyun-jeong Kim , 안봉전 Bong-jeon An

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Abstract

In this study, fermented Lycium chinense (L. chinense) extract was used to analyze the efficacy of nitric oxide (NO) and anti-aging inhibition to verify its usefulness as a functional cosmetic material. L. chinense was extracted with hydrothermal and 70% ethanol as a solvent, fermented, concentrated, and freeze-dried to prepare a sample, followed by MTT assay, NO inhibition assay, western blot assay, and UPLC analysis.As a result of the analysis of NO inhibitory efficacy, fermented L. chinense water extract (FLW) and fermented L. chinense 70% ethanol extract (FLE) showed excellent NO inhibitory efficacy of 47.96% and 56.71%, respectively. As a result of measuring the expression patterns of the wrinkle-related proteins MMP-1, and TRPV-1 through Western blot, both FLW and FLE confirmed the inhibitory efficacy of MMP-1 and TRPV-1. Based on the results of the experiment, the fermented L. chinense extract is expected to have a high application value as a functional cosmetic material related anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging.

Key Words

Lycium chinense, anti-inflammation, anti-aging, MMP-1, TRPV-1

조성미 Seong Mi Jo , 김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

In this study, the whitening and antioxidant effects of the extracts from Hydrangea petiolaris (H. petiolaris) leaves was confirmed, and the chemical structure was identified by separating the active ingredients. In the whitening tests using α-MSH stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells, the n-hexane (Hex) fraction inhibited the cellular melanogenesis and intracellular tyrosinase activities without causing cell toxicity. In addition, the Hex fraction reduced expression of tyrosinase and TRP-2 protein. Upon the anti-oxidative studies by DPPH and ABTS⁺ radicals, potent radical scavenging activities were observed in the ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction. Also, for the cellular protective effects on HaCat keratinocytes damaged by H₂O₂, the EtOAc fraction indicated protective effects against oxidative stress. Eight phytochemicals were isolated from the extract of H. petiolaris leaves; ethyl linoleate (1), ethyl linolenate (2), 1-linoleoyl glycerol (3), 1-linolenoyl glycerol (4), epi-catechin (5), afzelin (6), quercitrin (7), hyperin (8). Among the isolates, the compounds 5 - 8 showed DPPH and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activities. The contents of quercitirin, a major isolated in this extract, determined by HPLC analysis were confirmed to be about 31.3 mg/g for the 70% ethanol extract and 169.8 mg/g for the EtOAc fraction. Based on these results, it was suggested that the extract from H. petiolaris leaves could be potentially applicable as whitening and anti-oxidative ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

Key Words

Hydrangea petiolaris, whitening, anti-oxidation, cell protective effect, isolation

이예지 Ye Ji Lee , 서재용 Jae Yong Seo , 양현갑 Hyeon Gap Yang , 이주경 Ju Kyeong Lee , 백솔비 Sol Bee Baek , 조현대 Hyun Dae Cho , 정노희 Noh Hee Jeong

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Abstract

In order to prevent microbial contamination and safely use cosmetics, it is essential to possess preservative power. In this study, the antifungal effect was confirmed by improving the preservative system of the aqueous dispersion formulation, which has a weak preservative power against fungi, and various preservative systems were established to strengthen the preservative power against fungi. Five kinds of raw materials (sodium anisate, p-anisic acid, caprylhydroxamic acid, o-cymen-5-ol, hydroxyacetophenone) that have a benzene ring structure having a hydroxyl group and exist as protonated form in cosmetic formulations expected to improve antifungal activity in cosmetics were selected, and the minimum growth inhibitory concentration of the raw materials was determined through MIC assay. It was confirmed that the preservative power against mold was improved through the preservative efficacy test of 4 types of water dispersion formulations (cream, lotion, toner, and sun cream) in which 4 types of raw materials showing antimicrobial activity against mold were added to the preservative system. When p-anisic acid was used, it was confirmed that the preservative activity against mold was strengthened without the effect of inhibiting the preservative power against bacteria and yeast in all four formulations.

Key Words

cosmetics, preservative, microbial, antifungal, p-anisic acid

최채만 Chae Man Choi , 김수언 Su Un Kim , 박애숙 Ae Suk Park , 김지영 Ji-young Kim , 김윤희 Yun Hee Kim , 이명숙 Myung Sook Lee , 김욱희 Uk Hee Kim , 황인숙 In Sook Hwang

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Abstract

From March to August 2021, a total of 66 lip makeup products were collected from Seoul to measure the contents of lead, arsenic, cadmium, antimony, and nickel, and compared by product type (lip gloss, lip balm and lip tint), production area (domestic and imported), and user (for adults and children). The average metal contents were as follows; 0.284 μg/g for lead, 0.020 μg/g for arsenic, 0.003 μg/g for cadmium, 0.004 μg/g for antimony and 0.415 μg/g for nickel. The results of lip cosmetics were below the recommended maximums in regulations on safety standards for cosmetics of Ministry of Food and Drug Safety.

Key Words

lip cosmeticss, heavy metals, lead, nickel

이응지 Eung Ji Lee , 강한아 Hana Kang , 황보별 Bo Byeol Hwang , 정용지 Yong Ji Chung , 김은미 Eun Mi Kim

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated the effects of heptapeptide on cellular activation and inhibition of cellular damage induced by photoaging condition in NIH3T3 fibroblasts. Cell proliferation and extracellular matrix (ECM) expression were induced by heptapeptide. The reduced cell viability under photoaging condition through ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation was increased by heptapeptide. And UVA-induced apoptosis, matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1) expression, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) level were decreased by heptapeptide. In addition, the inhibition of transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β)/smad signaling under UVA irradiation which resulting in reduction of ECM expression was also recovered by heptapeptide. We also tested the effect of heptapeptide under another photoaging condition through heat shock, and pre-treatment of heptapeptide prevented the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) and MMP-1 expression induced by heat shock. From these results, it has been shown that the heptapeptide has protective effects on fibroblasts through the up-regulation of cellular activity and through the decreasing of intracellular ROS level induced by UVA irradiation or heat shock. It is expected that the dermal protection effect of heptapeptide can be applied as a new cosmetic material in the future.

Key Words

heptapeptide, fibroblast, photoaging, reactive oxygen species, extracellular matrix

박혜림 Hye Rim Park , 김하연 Ha Yeon Kim , 김진영 Jin Young Kim , 오신석 Sinseok Oh , 강필선 Pilsun Kang , 이강혁 Gang Hyuk Lee , 임정혁 Jung-hyurk Lim , 신송석 Song Seok Shin

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Abstract

Streptococcus sp. is generally known as a strain that produces hyaluronic acid. In this study, we focused on ingredients other than hyaluronic acid among several metabolites produced by Streptococcus sp. during cultivation. The hair experimental sample (HAIRCLE^TM) was prepared with Streptococcus sp. culture filtrate under the condition that hyaluronic acid was not produced and the effect on the hair was identified. Tensile strength of hair was tested with a universal testing machine (UTM). Surface properties of a hair were examined with an atomic force microscope (AFM). Our results suggest that HAIRCLE^TM could prevent damage to a hair such as destroyed-cuticle, increased-faction force, and broken-hair. Furthermore, hair-related experiments confirmed that HAIRCLE^TM could promote the expression of hair growth factors VEGF, HGF, and Wnt10b and mitigate male hair loss by inhibiting androgen receptors and TGF-β2 expression. In addition, it was confirmed that the expression of barrier-related factors (INV, CLDN-1) was increased for oxidative stress, and the COX-2 expression, an inflammatory factor, was inhibited, thereby improving damaged scalp barriers and alleviating induced inflammation.

Key Words

Streptococcus sp. strain culture medium filtrate, hair revitalization, tensile strength, atomic force microscope, hair growth

송미 Mee Song , 백지훈 Ji Hwoon Baek

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Abstract

The skin protects the body from excessive water loss and the invasion of harmful substances, such as chemicals and microbes. The stratum corneum, is recognized as a very important physical barrier. However, in recent years evidence emerged that tight junctions (TJ) might also play a crucial role in barrier function of the skin. In the present study, TJ proteins including transmembrane proteins and plaque proteins, skin permeability barrier function and skin diseases of TJ were reviewed.

Key Words

epidermis, barrier, tight junction