안형근 Hyung Guen An , 현통일 Tong-il Hyeon , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

DOI:

Abstract

Customized cosmetics are continuously mentioned as a trend in the cosmetics industry to respond to the recent rapid changes in the social environment and pursue individuality and diversity. Accordingly, four types of liposome essence corresponding to skin types were prepared by varying the ratio of liposome formulation and essence formulation as a customized cosmetic base that can be easily mixed and applied at the workplace. The volatilization residues of four types of liposome essence were measured and the nanoparticle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential and viscosity according to time for 90 d were measured, and Turbiscan was measured as a method for evaluating the stability of a colloidal dispersion system. In addition, a simple usability evaluation was performed for four types of liposome essence corresponding to the skin type. As a result, the amount of volatile residue in the four types of liposome essence was increased in dry products rather than oily ones, and the particle size showed a tendency to increase with time in the range of 165 to 175 nm, increasing up to 31.5%, and the polydispersity index was 0.23 to 0.26. There was little change with time, and the zeta potential was -74 to -72 mV, showing a slight decrease with time, but there was little change to the extent of a maximum decrease of 14.0%. Viscosity showed a decreasing trend with time in the range of 2,580 ∼ 3,290 cps, showing a maximum decrease of 17.5%. In the turbiscan measurement, all of the turbiscan stability index, a measure of stability, were less than 1.0, indicating dispersion stability. In the overall simple usability satisfaction evaluation for skin types (6 points), products for oily skin (5.33 ± 0.75 points) > products for medium dry skin (5.13 ± 0.95 points) > products for dry skin (5.03 ± 0.96 points) > products for oily skin (4.80 ± 1.04 points) points) were evaluated in order. The four types of liposome essence corresponding to skin types with different ratios of liposome formulation and essence formulation were physically stable, and the possibility of application as a customized cosmetic base according to skin type was confirmed.

Key Words

customized cosmetics, liposome essence, turbiscan, skin type, satisfaction evaluation

류종혁 Jong Hyuk Ryu , 이정아 Jeong Ah Lee , 고재영 Jae Young Ko , 황재성 Jae Sung Hwang

DOI:

Abstract

It has been reported that the ethanolic extract of the root of Piper methysticum (P. methysticum) inhibits melanogenesis in melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH)-activated B16 melanoma cells. Flavokawain B (FKB) and Flavokawain C (FKC) isolated from this extract have been found to inhibit melanin production based on anti-melanogenesis activity. This study was designed to find out the inhibition and its process of FKB and FKC on melanin synthesis in melan-a melanocytes. FKB and FKC inhibited melanogenesis at 10 μM, 5 μM respectively in melan-a melanocytes. However, they did not inhibit extracellular tyrosinase activity from melan-a melanocytes. FKB reduced the protein level of tyrosinase (Tyr), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and the mRNA level of Tyr and TRP-1. FKC reduced the protein level of TRP-2 and MITF and the mRNA level of TRP-1 and Tyr. The reduced expression of Tyr and TRP-1 might be resulted from the decreased MITF which regulates major melanogenic proteins. However, since the mRNA expression of MITF did not change by FKB and FKC treatment, the effects of FKB and FKC on extracellular signal regulating kinase (ERK)/AKT phosphorylation, known to regulate the degradation of MITF, were confirmed. FKB and FKC significantly increased the phosphorylation of ERK1/2, not in AKT. These results suggest that FKB and FKC may be helpful as a potential depigmenting agent for various hyper-pigmentary disorders.

Key Words

Piper methysticum, melanogenesis, Flavokawain B (FKB), Flavokawain C (FKC)

맹지혜 Jihye Maeng , 남개원 Gaewon Nam

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, basic skin characteristics data were collected by measuring skin hydration, skin melanin, skin redness, and skin torsion elasticity from Korean women in from 20’s to 40’s ages, and then, age and correlation analysis were conducted. This was used to create a skin index, and cluster analysis was performed to classify the groups into 4 clusters, and the skin characteristics of each cluster were confirmed. Then, two prototypes were used for two weeks to confirm the improvement effect on skin moisture, skin redness, and skin dead mass reduction, and then analyzed which product was more effective in which cluster of subjects participated in the skin characteristics test. As a result of the study, the possibility of preparing for the customized cosmetics market was confirmed by applying the skin index and cluster analysis results to product efficacy evaluation.

Key Words

skin index, skin characteristic regression analysis, classification skin, clinical study, customized cosmetic

신재영 Jae Young Shin , 강내규 Nae Gyu Kang

DOI:

Abstract

Ultraviolet B (UVB) damages DNA residues in skin keratinocytes. In particular, the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), a pyrimidine residue damage in DNA, is considered a representative indicator of skin photoaging. In this study, we confirmed defensive effect of Glycyrrhiza glabra (G. glabra) extract against UVB induced DNA damage. First of all, we confirmed UVB dependent amount of CPD formation in human keratinocyte cell line. UVB induced CPD was decreased by G. glabra extract by dose dependent manner. In addition, it was confirmed that the expression of mRNA of DNA damage recovery factors was increased by G. glabra extract. Consequently, through this study, it was possible to confirm the DNA protection effect of G. glabra extract in skin keratinocytes.

Key Words

ultraviolet B, Glycyrrhiza glabra, CPD, DNA damage, DNA repair

정수현 Su-hyun Jung , 염현지 Hyeon-ji Yeom , 오민정 Min-jeong Oh , 이진영 Jin-young Lee

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we tried to find out the value of using Vietnamese Ternstroemia kwangtungensis Merr. (TK) extracts as a functional material. As a result of measuring the level of Nrf2 expression of TK, 50% ethanol extract TK leaf showed the highest activity at a concentration of 200 μg/mL. In order to confirm the stability of the extract over time at room temperature, UPLC was performed, and stability was maintained because the patterns of the UV spectrum pattern were the same. In order to confirm the antioxidant efficacy of TK, the activity increased as the concentration increased as a result of measuring electron donating and ABTS ⁺ radical scavenging ability. At 1,000 μg/mL, they showed effects of 94.6% and 90.8%, respectively. As a result of measuring the tyrosinase inhibitory activity showed an inhibitory ability of 24.4% at a concentration of 1,000 μg/mL. In addition, as a result of examining the elastase inhibitory activity of the extract was increased in a concentration-dependent manner, and it was confirmed that the inhibitory activity was 42.7% at 1,000 μg/mL. From these results, it was confirmed that the TK extract was valuable as a natural material for cosmetics.

Key Words

Ternstroemia kwangtungensis Merr, antioxidant activity, whitening, anti-wrinkle

김은미 Eun-mi Kim , 정지용 Jiyong Jung , 김형민 Hyung-min Kim , 황경환 Kyeong Hwan Hwang , 김형준 Hyoung-june Kim , 박원석 Won-seok Park

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, the conditions for efficiently extracting polyphenols contained in black tea were optimized. In order to confirm the polyphenol content according to the degree of fermentation, the polyphenol content in black tea of the three fermentation degrees was compared. As the degree of fermentation increased, the polyphenol content increased, and it was confirmed that the theabrownin content, the largest in size, increased significantly. In addition, it was confirmed that the amount of theabrownin extraction increased by about 150% or more compared to other extraction water when extracting using mineral water, which was hard water. The antioxidant effects of black tea extract and the theabrownin was confirmed using ABTS assay. As a result, both extracts had antioxidant effects, and IC₅₀ values were confirmed to be 10.60 ppm and 13.21 ppm, respectively. And also, the anti-inflammatory effect of the theabrownin was confirmed that the mRNA expression of IL-8 increased by UVB irradiation was inhibited in a concentration dependent manner by the theabrownin. In addition, when theabrownin was treated with 10 ppm, the mitochondrial function decreased by UVB irradiation was restored to 86 ± 1.9% compared to the control group. Therefore, we concluded that theabrownin could protect mitochondrial damage caused by UVB irradiation.

Key Words

black tea, mineral water, theabrownin, antioxidant, anti-inflammation

노민주 Min Joo Noh , 여혜림 Hye Lim Yeo , 이지현 Ji Hyun Lee , 박명삼 Myeong Sam Park , 이준배 Jun Bae Lee , 윤명석 Moung Seok Yoon

DOI:

Abstract

The potassium cream soap with fatty acid called cleaning foam has a crystal gel structure, and unlike an emulsion system, it is weak to shear stress and shows characteristics that are easily separated under high temperature storage conditions. The crystal gel structure of cleansing foams is significantly influenced by the nature and proportion of fatty acids, degree of neutralization, and the nature and proportion of polyols. In order to investigate the effect of these parameters on the crystal gel structure, a ternary system consisting of water/KOH/fatty acid was investigated in this study. The investigation of differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) revealed that the eutectic point was found at the ratio of myristic acid (MA) : stearic acid (SA) = 3 : 1 and ternary systems were the most stable at the eutectic point. However, the increase in fatty acid content had little effect on stability. On the basis of viscosity and polarized optical microscopy (POM) measurements, the optimum degree of neutralization was found to be about 75%. The system was stable when the melting point (T_m) of the ternary system was higher than the storage temperature and the crystal phase was transferred to lamellar gel phase, but the increase in fatty acid content had little effect on stability. The addition of polyols to the ternary system played an important role in changing the T_m and causing phase transition. The structure of the cleansing foams were confirmed through cryogenic scanning electron microscope (Cryo-SEM), small and wide angle X-ray scattering (SAXS and WAXS) analysis. Since butylene glycol (BG), propylene glycol (PG), and dipropylene glycol (DPG) lowered the T_m and hindered the lamellar gel formation, they were unsuitable for the formation of stable cleansing foam. In contrast, glycerin, PEG-400, and sorbitol increased the T_m, and facilitated the formation of lamellar gel phase, which led to a stable ternary system. Glycerin was found to be the most optimal agent to prepare a cleansing foam with enhanced stability.

Key Words

fatty acid potassium cream soaps, crystal gel structure, eutectic point, DSC, Cryo-SEM, SAXS, WAXS

김영주 Young Joo Kim , 차화준 Hwa Jun Cha

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, the anti-pigmentation efficacy of Panax vietnamensis (P. vietnamensis), a ginseng native to Vietnam, was confirmed. Melanin synthesis was repressed by ethanolic extracts of P. vietnamensis in B16F10 cells, melanocytes originated from mouse. At 250 μg/mL ethanolic extracts of P. vietnamensis, melanin contents were repressed by 64.04% compared to the control group. In addition, ethanolic extracts of P. vietnamensis downregulated tyrosinase activity and expression to 53.34% and 59.39%, respectively. As shown our result, ethanolic extracts of P. vietnamensis blocks α -MSH-mediated melanogenesis and is valuable whitening ingredients in cosmetics.

Key Words

Panax vietnamensis, melanin, pigmentation, tyrosinase

염현숙 Hyun Sook Yeom , 조성미 Seong Mi Cho , 박진오 Jin Oh Park , 이해광 Hae Kwang Lee , 이혜자 Hye Ja Lee

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant activity, wound healing, moisturizing and anti-pollution effects of fermented Citrus junos (FCJ) with Lactobacillus rhamnosus as a cosmetic material. For the anti-oxidative activities, the FCJ showed potent DPPH radical scavenging activities. In addition, FCJ increased cell migration compared to the untreated group in scratch-induced wound healing assay. It was confirmed that the amount of filagrin (FLG), a moisturizing factor, increased in FCJ. FCJ prevented the decrease in cell viability, stimulated by PM₁₀ at in vitro. Based on these results, it is believed that various effects of FCJ can provide a scientific basis for the development of cosmetic raw materials.

Key Words

fermented Citrus junos, anti-oxidation, moisturizing, wound healing, anti-pollution

하지훈 Ji Hoon Ha , 최형 Hyeong Choi , 홍인기 In Ki Hong , 한상근 Sang-kuen Han , 빈범호 Bum Ho Bin

DOI:

Abstract

Retinaldehyde (RA), vitamin A derivative, is an intermediate between retinol and retinoic acid and has an excellent wrinkle improving effect. In this study, Drug-in-cyclodextrin-in-liposome (DCL) was used to enhance the stability and skin penetration of RA. The complex of RA and hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD) was prepared by the freeze-drying method, and the presence or absence of inclusion of retinal was confirmed by UV-Vis spectrometer, FT-IR and SEM images. RA was captured in HP-β-CD about 95.6% on 1 : 15 (w/w). The retinal-HP-β-CD complex was encapsulated in liposomes using a homomixer and microfluidizer, with an average particle size of 215 ± 4.2 nm and a zeta potential of -31.2 ± 0.5 mv. In the evaluation of the degradation stability of RA, degradation rate of RA-HP-β-CD-liposomes in water was 1.8% higher than RA-liposome (5.8%), RA-HP-β-CD complex (9.7%) and RA　alone (37.6%). RA cream (0.05% RA) including RA-HP-β-CD-liposomes was prepared for clinical test with wrinkle-improving efficacy and skin dermis denseness evaluated for 2 or 4 weeks. RA cream showed a significant wrinkle improving effect without skin irritation. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the double stabilization technology using the DCL system contribu tes to the effect of improving skin wrinkles by increasing the stabilization of retinal.

Key Words

retinoids, retinaldehyde, cyclodextrin, liposome, anti-aging