김동희 Dong Hee Kim , 이진재 Jin Jae Lee

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Abstract

The water resistance is important factor for sunscreen formulations. Generally a sunscreen cream was formulated by a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. In the W/O emulsion system, silicone oils a re added to improve the texture of formulations. Silicone oils have low compatibility with organic sunscreen agent, causing problems with the stability in emulsion. In this study, the compatibility between various oils in the W/O emulsion was derived numerically using Hansen solubility parameter (HSP) at first. HSP is represented a dispersion degree, a polarity, and a hydrgen bond in a composition. In this study, various emulsions were prepared according to the types of oils with different HSP values and then monitored by a viscosity and morphology according to the time and temperature. The HSP values of components and the experimental results have similar activities for the stability of emulsions. HSP made it easy to select oil with high compatibility. When the compatibility of the oil phase in the W/O emulsion was high, the viscosity change over time was small. The stability was improved under the freeze-thaw cycle (-15 ℃ ∼ 45 ℃). In the future, if the composition of the ingredients is optimized through HSP, it is expected that it will be helpful in the development of W/O type sunscreen formulations that are excellent in use and stability.

Key Words

HSP, W/O emulsion, stability, compatibility, sunscreen

문영 Ying Wen , 이설훈 Seol-hoon Lee

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Abstract

In this study, we analyzed the cosmetic applicability of extract from snow tea, native to Lijiang, Yunnan-province, China. After confirming the species as N. grossedentata through DNA analysis of Lijiang snow tea, experiments were conducted using representative tea, green tea, and a representative control group for each efficacy analysis. Both teas were extracted using 70% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution. The polyphenol content in the Lijiang snow tea extract (gallic acid equivalent, 23.9 ± 3.2 mg/mL) was higher than that in green tea extract (16.4 ± 2.3 mg/mL). In contrast, the antioxidant (Radical scavenging, IC₅₀ 104 μg/mL), tyrosinase enzyme inhibitory (whitening agent, IC₅₀ 40.7 μg/mL), and Escherichia coli growth inhibitory (preservative) activities (IC₅₀ 2.85 mg/mL) were analyzed based on the solid content in the extract, and it was confirmed that the activities of Lijiang snow tea extract were superior to those of green tea extract (radical scavenging, IC₅₀ 234 μg/mL. It also showed similar efficacy to previously used active substances such as antioxidants (vitamin C, IC₅₀ 108 μg/mL), whitening agents (vitamin C, IC₅₀ 80μg/mL), and preservatives (methylparaben, IC₅₀ 4.35 mg/mL). However, green tea was found to be better in collagenase inhibition activity (anti-wrinkle). Through this study, the cosmetic application potential of Lijiang snow tea is high.

Key Words

anti-oxidant, anti-wrinkle, cosmetic applications, Lijang snow-tea, Nekemias grossdentata, whitening

김애란 Aeran Kim , 이유진 You-jin Lee , 조윤식 Yun-sik Cho , 김현주 Hyun-jue Kim , 조상훈 Sang-hun Cho , 김양희 Yang-hee Kim , 노정원 Jeong-won Ro , 박용배 Yong-bae Park

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Abstract

In this study, 27 inorganic sunscreens and 23 sunscreens for children were collected to investigate the use and incorporation of 17 types of sunscreen agents, 13 types of preservatives, and 5 types of heavy metals. As a result, sunscreen agents were detected in the order of titanium dioxide (41 cases), zinc oxide (29 cases), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyltriazine (10 cases), ethylhexyl salicylate (8 cases), and ethylhexylmethoxynamate (8 cases), and preservatives were detected in order of phenoxyethanol (6 cases), benzoic acid (1 case), and dihydroacetic acid(1 case). All of the identified sunscreen agents were suitable for labeling, but phenoxyethanol, a preservative component other than labeling, was detected at a concentration of 0.1%. Heavy metals such as lead, cadmium, arsenic, antimony, and nickel were not detected or were detected at various concentrations of less than 3.6 μg/g. All the detected UV filters, preservatives, and heavy metals were less than the allowed maximum amount stipulated by the Regulations on Cosmetic Safety Standards in Korea.

Key Words

sunscreen for Children, inorganic Sunscreen, UV Filter, preservative, heavy metals

김설영 Seolyeong Kim , 이건희 Geonhee Lee , 곽은지 Eun Ji Gwak , 김수지 Su Ji Kim , 이수현 Su Hyon Lee , 임경민 Kyung-min Lim

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Abstract

In this study, we prepared a pigmented skin model, KeraSkin-M^TM for the in vitro evaluation of whitening agents. For the purpose of complementing the existing mono-layer cell culture testing method, KeraSkin-M^TM was produced through the co-culture of human skin-derived keratinocytes and melanocytes. The efficacy of four well-known whitening agents (arbutin, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, niacinamide) was evaluated in KeraSkin-M^TM in order to assess its usefulness in assessing whitening efficacy. As a result, it was possible to observe additional details such as the distribution of melanin granules and melanin capping in each skin layer through KeraSkin-M^TM, which was previously difficult to assess in the traditional 2D cell culture system. In addition, quantification through image analysis of KeraSkin-M^TM allowed for a statistical analysis of the whitening effects. These results suggest that the KeraSkin-M^TM can be used as a new evaluation method of evaluating whitening efficacy, as well as complement the traditional total melanin content and tyrosinase inhibition assays.

Key Words

whitening, alternative test method, pigmented human skin model, KeraSkin-M^TM

여혜림 Hye Lim Yeo , 이효진 Hyo Jin Lee , 강해란 Hae-ran Kang , 정소영 So Young Jung , 이소민 So Min Lee , 김형묵 Hyung Mook Kim , 곽병문 Byeong-mun Kwak , 이미기 Mi-gi Lee , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin

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Abstract

This study relates to the development of a new gel sheet mask that finally does not require support based on the reactivity and acid/base reaction experiments of Tamarindus indica seed gum (TG), ethanol, and polyols. When TG and a specific alcohol was mixed at a certain mixing ratio, a transparent gel is formed by reaction with each component, and thus a gel sheet mask without support might be obtained using the mixture. In order to maximize skin tone improvement, a carbonation system of acid and base reactions was introduced, and skin brightness and moisturizing power were evaluated using a spectrophotometer and a moisture measuring device. Through this study, it is expected that the gelation reaction by hydrogen bonding of TG, ethanol, and polyols can be developed into various types, and the gel sheet mask formulation introduced in this study is expected to help develop new products in the future.

Key Words

tamarindus indica seed gum, TG, ethanol, polyol, carbonic acid system, gel sheet mask

오가향 Ka Hyang Oh , 박성막 Sung Mak Park , 이소민 So Min Lee , 정소영 So Young Jung , 곽병문 Byeong-mun Kwak , 이미기 Mi-gi Lee , 이미애 Mi Ae Lee , 최성민 Sung Min Choi , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin

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Abstract

Essential oil is a volatile substance obtained by physically obtaining fragrant plant materials made by one single plant and plant species, and is widely used for cosmetics, fragrances, and aroma therapy due to its excellent preservation, sterilization, and antibacterial effects. When essential oil would undergo the extraction and concentration processes, the agricultural chemicals thereof would be extracted and concentrated only to be harmful to the human body. This study analyzes 320 residual agricultural chemicals concentrated in the essential oil, and to this end, LC-MS/MS and GC-MS/MS are used, while the freezing process is applied instead of the conventional refining process hexane, to improve the preprocessing method. As a result of analyzing the essential oil, such ingredients as chlorpyrifos, piperonyl butoxide and silafluofen have been detected in Basil oil and Clove leaf oil. Hence, it is perceived that the residual agricultural chemicals should continue to be monitored for the essential oil.

Key Words

essential oil, freezing, pesticide, LC-MS/MS, GC-MS/MS

범석현 Seok-hyun Beom , 권현지 Hyun-ji Kwon , 현진아 Jin-a Hyun , 강은빈 Eun-bin Kang , 박하은 Ha-eun Park , 한동근 Dong-geun Han , 김현정 Hyun-jeong Kim , 최은영 Eun-young Choi , 안봉전 Bong-jeon An

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Abstract

In this study, Rosa multiflora was sampled through extraction, concentration, and freezing. The antioxidant efficacy of a mixture of R. multiflora extract and ascorbic acid was compared with a single ascorbic acid. The purpose of this study was to analyze the antioxidant efficacy through the synergistic effect of R. multiflora extract and ascorbic acid. The experiment measured electron donating ability, ABTS⁺ radical scavenging, SOD-like activity, xanthine oxidase inhibition activity, reducing power, FRAP, polyphenolic content measurement, and flavnoid content measurement. As a result, the complex showed higher antioxidant activity than the control group (ascorbic acid) in the electron donating ability test and the xanthine oxidase inhibitory activity test. In the case of the flavonoid content experiment, it was confirmed that RMW+A (272.1 mg QE/g), RME+A (90.6 mg QE/g), and RMW+A (79.4 mg QE/g) at a concentration of 100 μg/mL had a higher flavonoid content than the control group (19.0 mg QE/g). Therefore, the extract and ascorbic acid complex exhibited a synergistic effect compared to the single use. Therefore, it is thought that this complex will contribute to product stabilization and skin aging inhibition when used in antioxidant cosmetics.

Key Words

rosa multiflora, ascorbic acid, antioxidant, polyphenol, flavnoid

김수진 Su Jin Kim , 오원준 Won Jun Oh , 권성필 Sung Pil Kwon , 남개원 Gaewon Nam

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Abstract

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 μg/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 μg/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 μg/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.

Key Words

acerola extract, liposome, anti-aging, whitenign, cosmetics

권현지 Hyun-ji Kwon , 범석현 Seok-hyun Beom , 현진아 Jin-a Hyun , 강은빈 Eun-bin Kang , 박하은 Ha-eun Park , 한동근 Dong-geun Han , 김현정 Hyun-jeong Kim , 최은영 Eun-young Choi , 안봉전 Bong-jeon An

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Abstract

In this study, the skin whitening and anti-wrinkle activity of Abelmoschus manihot (A. manihot) flowers were evaluated as a cosmetic material. A. manihot flowers were extracted using water and 70% ethanol. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity was evaluated to increase concentration-dependent inhibitory activity in both water (AMW) and 70% ethanol extracts (AME), and was found to inhibit melanin biosynthesis at concentrations that did not affect survival in B16F10 cell lines at 10, 25, 50, 75, and 100 μg/mL. As a result of measuring the anti-wrinkle effectiveness of A. manihot flowers, 70% ethanol extract (AME) showed higher anti-wrinkle activity than water extract (AMW). Through the results of this study, it is considered that the A. manihot flower extract can be used as a functional cosmetic material with whitening and anti-wrinkle activity.

Key Words

tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase, cosmetic, Abelmoschus manihot flower

송상훈 Sang-hun Song , 황병우 Byung Woo Hwang , 손성길 Seong Kil Son , 강내규 Nae-gyu Kang

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Abstract

The objective of this study was to establish technology for removing bacteria with human- and eco-friendly material. Staphylococcus aureus as an important component for balanced equilibrium among microbiomes, was cultured under various concentrations of phosphate. Experimental observation relating to physical properties was performed in an addition of phosphate buffer. Statistically minimum value of size and hardness using atomic force microscope was observed on the matured biofilm at 5 mM concentration of phosphate. As a result of absorbance for the biofilm tagged with dye, concentration of biofilm was reduced with phophate, too. To identify whether this reduction by phosphate at the 5 mM is caused by counter ion or not, sodium chloride was treated to the biofilm under the same condition. To elucidate components of the biofilm counting analysis of the biofilm using time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry was employed. The secondary ions from the biofilm revealed that alteration of physical properties is consistent to the change of extracellular polymeric substrate (EPS) for the biofilm. Viscoelastic characterization of the biofilm using a controlled shear stress rheometer, where internal change of physical properties could be detected, exhibited a static viscosity and a reduction of elastic modulus at the 5 mM concentration of phosphate. Accordingly, bacteria at the 5 mM concentration of phosphate are attributed to removing the EPS through a reduction of elastic modulus for bacteria. We suggest that the reduction of concentration of biofilm induces dispersion which assists to easily spread its dormitory. In conclusion, it is elucidated that an addition of phosphate causes removal of EPS, and that causes a function of antibiotic.

Key Words

biofilm, S, aureus, AFM, TOF-SIMS, phosphate