김원철 Woncheol Kim , 김한조 Han Jo Kim , 부용출 Yong Chool Boo , 고재숙 Jae Sook Koh , 백지훈 Ji Hwoon Baek

DOI:

Abstract

Particulate matters (PM) are small particulate pollution that decrease the function of skin barrier, which causes inflammatory skin diseases and extrinsic aging. In this study, we evaluated the effect of preventing the adherence of PMs from several cosmetic products applied to human skin using iron oxide black. The PM floating chamber consists of skin exposure area, PM inlet, floating power device, and an outlet so that PM can be naturally attached to the skin while floating in the chamber. The change in skin brightness according to the floating concentration of alternative fine dust was checked to confirm the optimal floating concentration conditions. The intensity difference (before-after intensity, Δ) before and after adhesion of iron oxide black was proportional to the amount of PM adhered. The anti-adherence effect of iron oxide black on five cosmetic products were evaluated through 20 each subjects by comparing the amount of iron oxide black adhered on the control and treatment. The difference in brightness before and after the iron oxide black attached to the skin was calculated and compared with the control group(p < 0.05). When over 150 mg of iron oxide black was adhered on the skin, the interference of intensity was low and clearly showed the skin adhered pattern. According to the application of the five cosmetics, the intensity difference was significantly lower than the control group. This means that depending on the product, it prevented the attachment of iron oxide black. This study is a safe and useful method to confirm the prevention of PM skin adherence. In conclusion, cosmetics can prevent the adherence of PM on the skin according to the formulation or ingredients characteristics.

Key Words

particulate matter, cosmetics, iron oxide black, skin barrier, anti-pollution

박규근 Kyu Kun Park , 윤여필 Year Pill Yoon

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, Rubus idaeus (Raspberry) cultivar ‘Willamette’ fruit extract(RIFE) was prepared from the freeze-dried raspberry powder, n-hexane and ethyl acetate, and then the phenolic compound content, ferric reducing ability, and radical scavenging ability were measured. The raspberry cultivar ‘willamette’, ‘polka’, and ‘polana’ compound fruit extract did not show cytotoxicity up to the concentration of 10%. As a result of conducting an experiment at the concentration, it was confirmed that the total phenolic compound content was 375.3 ppm, and the total flavonoid content was 43.46 ppm, and the ferric reducing ability by ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) reagent was equivalent to FeSO₄ 0.532 mM. It was confirmed that 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging ability was 94.5 ± 0.7%, and the 2,2’-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS) radical scavenging ability was 99.4 ± 2.82%, and the nitric oxide (NO) radical scavenging activity was 88.5 ± 0.4%. When compared with the L-ascorbic acid ‘standard’ solution, DPPH radical scavenging ability was between 25 - 50 ppm / ABTS radical scavenging ability was close to 100 ppm / NO radical scavenging ability was more than 1,000 ppm. These results suggest that the raspberry cultivar ‘willamette’ fruit extract could be applied as an effective cosmetic material with antioxidant activity.

Key Words

Rubus idaeus, Raspberry, fruit extract, willamette cultivar, phenolic compounds, anti-oxidant, radical scavenging ability

정기수 Gi Soo Jung , 이선희 Sun Hee Lee , 양수경 Soo-kyung Yang , 문성필 Sung Pil Moon , 송관필 Gwanpil Song , 김지영 Ji Young Kim

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Abstract

The purpose of this study was to investigate the possible use of the Boehmeria nivea var. nipononivea extract and fractions for the development of natural cosmetic ingredients. The leaves of B. nivea var. nipononivea, extracted by 70% ethanol, were sequentially fractionated with n-hexane, dichloromethane, ethylacetate, and n-butanol. As a result of DPPH and ABTS test, ethyl acetate fractionation was shown to be excellent in radical scavenging activity. For the antimicrobial activities against Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Cutibacterium acnes and antibiotic resistant strains, MIC and birth control rate were observed by paper disc method. In the antibacterial activity by the disc diffusion assay against S. aureus, S. epidermidis and C. acnes, the dichloromethane and ethylacetate fraction showed stronger antibacterial activity than the other fractions and extract. Moreover, the ethylacetate fraction showed strong nitric oxide (NO) production inhibitory effect in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 cell. In conclusion, we found that B. nivea var. nipononivea extract was not cytotoxic and showed antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects. These results suggest that the Boehmeria nivea var. nipononivea extract and fractions could be applied as an effective cosmetic material with antioxidant activity.

Key Words

Boehmeria nivea var, nipononivea, antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, nitric oxide

강혜정 Hye Jung Kang , 이종우 Jong Woo Lee , 박태우 Tae Woo Park , 박혜윤 Hye Yoon Park , 박준성 Junseong Park

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Abstract

Bio-conversion manufacturing technology has been developed to produce ginsenoside Rd which is increasingly in demand as a cosmetic material due to various possibilities related to improving skin function. In order to convert ginsenoside Rb1 which is contained in red ginseng saponin (RGS) into Rd, several commercial enzymes were tested. Viscoflow MG was found to be the most efficient. In order to optimize the conversion of RGS to ginsenoside Rd by enzymatic transition was carried out using response surface methodology (RSM) based on Box-Behnken design (BBD). The main independent variables were RGS concentration, enzyme concentration, and reaction time. Conversion of ginsenoside Rd was performed under 17 conditions selected according to BBD model and optimization conditions were analyzed. The concentration of the converted ginsenoside Rd ranged from 0.3113 g/L to 0.5277 g/L, and the highest production volume was obtained under condition of reacting 2% RGS and 1.25% enzyme for 13.5 hours. Consequently, RGS concentration, enzyme concentration which is 0.05 less than p-value and among the interactions between the independent variables, the interaction between enzyme concentration and reaction time was confirmed to be the most influential.

Key Words

red ginseng extract, ginsenoside Rd, bioconversion, β-glucanase, RSM

노경백 Kyung-baeg Roh , 신승우 Seoungwoo Shin , 윤소현 Sohyun Yoon , 원진배 Jin Bae Weon , 오세영 Se-young Oh , 김준오 Junoh Kim , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung

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Abstract

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common and multifactorial inflammatory skin disease that is characterized by skin barrier dysfunction, inflammation, and chronic pruritus. AD has a complex etiology that includes genetic, immunological, and environmental factors that cause skin barrier abnormalities and immune dysfunctions. Sophora flavescens (SF) has been used in traditional Chinese medicine, but little research has been conducted on its anti-AD efficacy. In this study, we evaluated the effect of SF extract (SFE) on improving skin barrier function and immune abnormalities, which are the main symptoms of AD. SFE has the capacity to enhance the formation of cornified envelope (CE) that plays an important role in the skin barrier function. In addition, it was confirmed that SFE increased the expression of hyaluronic acid related to skin moisture. The effect of SFE against Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus), which increases specifically in AD lesions, confirmed that SFE inhibited the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines induced by S. aureus. Furthermore, SFE was shown to inhibit the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines induced by substance P (SP), the cause of skin neurogenic inflammation. These results demonstrate that SFE could be one of potential candidate agent for the treatment of AD by improving the skin barrier function and immune responses.

Key Words

atopic dermatitis, Sophora flavescens, skin barrier, hyaluronic acid, substance P

류주연 Joo-yeon Ryoo , 배정은 Jung-eun Bae , 강내규 Nae-gyu Kang

DOI:

Abstract

There have been continuous attempts to quantify sensory attributes of cosmetic products by measuring relevant physical properties. The most representative method to evaluate stickiness is to measure axial force using texture analyzer. Stickiness is known to correlate with AUC which abbreviates area under curve in the obtained axial force curve as a function of time. Recently, Normandie University research group developed in vivo stickiness evaluation method considering the characteristics of skin along with established evaluation method[8]. Based on the study, we tried to optimize in vivo stickiness evaluation method especially for cosmetic creams. The experiment was carried out on 5 different facial creams products by changing the amount and the times of rolling of creams, and the shape and material of probes. Based on the results of the sensory evaluation, the most consistent conditions were established as the optimal evaluation method. As a result, applying 70 μL of cream and rubbing 10 times for 7 s inside the 3.4 cm circle were judged to be suitable. As for the probes, spherical metallic probe was more proper due to its reproducibility. We conducted the settled method on 10 subjects to check its validity. Although the absolute values of AUC differed depending on the individuals, the AUC values were all ranked the same. Finally, for the standardization of stickiness of AUC, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) was set as a reference material and we measured AUC of its aqueous solution by changing concentration. Then, the degree of stickiness recognition for 5 different creams was surveyed to check the correlation between AUC and stickiness.

Key Words

cosmetic cream, stickiness, in vivo, evaluation method, texture analyzer

박수진 Soo Jin Park , 곽병문 Byeong Mun Kwak , 이미기 Mi Gi Lee , 빈범호 Bum Ho Bin

DOI:

Abstract

Blue light is a blue-based light existing at a wavelength between 380 and 450 nm, and it has been reported that it induces active oxygen and causes aging, and accordingly, interest in the blue light blocking effect is increasing. In this study, the effects of the polarity of oil, viscosity of the formulation, type of emulsifier, emulsified particles, and inorganic UV blocking agents on the blue light blocking effect in UV blocking products were investigated. As a result, it was confirmed that the blue light blocking rate increased as the polarity of the oil became similar to that of the organic UV blocker, and the higher the viscosity of the formulation, the higher the blue light blocking rate. The types of emulsifiers and emulsified particles had little effect on the blue light blocking effect, and the presence of inorganic UV blocking agents was found to be one of the factors that greatly influenced the blue light blocking rate. These results can effectively increase the efficiency of blocking blue light, and may be used in the development of blue light blocking products and formulation research in the future.

Key Words

bule light, transmissivity, polarity sunscreen, emulsion

이경하 Kyung-ha Lee , 김완일 Wanil Kim

DOI:

Abstract

Flavonoids are polyphenolic compounds derived from plants metabolites and are known to be capable of controlling various human physiological functions. Among them, fisetin (3,3’, 3’, 7-tetrahydroxyflavone) is found in various fruits and vegetables, and it has been recently known to restore the function of certain tissues through senolytic activity. In this study, targeting human epidermal keratinocytes, control of skin barrier genes and antioxidant efficacy of fisetin were analyzed. Fisetin increased the activity of telomerase and decreased the expression of CDKN1B. In addition, it increased the expression of KRT1, FLG, IVL, and DSP, which are main genes that make up the skin barrier. The fisetin also increased the expression of CerS3 and CerS4 genes, which are forms of ceramide synthases. These results show that the efficacy of fisetin is not limited as senolytics but is also involved in various physiological regulation of human keratinocytes. Therefore, we consider that fisetin could be used as an active ingredient in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

Key Words

fisetin, senolytics, keratinocyte, skin barrier, anti-aging

장준환 Jun-hwan Jang , 이형규 Hyung-kyu Lee , 배준태 Jun-tae Bae , 이재섭 Jae-seob Lee , 황방연 Bang-yeon Hwang

DOI:

Abstract

While searching for useful microorganisms, Saccharomycopsis fibuligera which can be used as cosmetic materials were divided from Jeju island’s traditional fermented foods. In this study, blackcurrant extract which contains a large amount of anthocyanin glycosides was fermented with S. fibuligera. HPLC analysis was performed to analyze the components of blackcurrant extract (BE) and fermented blackcurrant fruit extract (FBE). As a result, bio-conversion of delphinidin and cyanidin were able to be identified. In order to verify the anti-oxidant effect of BE and FBE, we investigated radical scavenging ability with DPPH and ABTS. In addition, to confirm anti-inflammatory effect, we investigated inhibition effect of nitric oxide (NO) production on lipopolysaccharide (LPS) - stimulated RAW264.7 macrophages, and inhibition effect of the expression of inflammatory-related proteins (iNOS, COX-2) by western blot analysis. As a result, as FBE has anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, we suggest that it might be used as an active ingredient for cosmetics.

Key Words

microbiome, blackcurrant, bio-conversion, anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory

조현대 Hyun Dae Cho , 정지연 Jiyeon Jeong , 류화선 Hwa Sun Ryu , 이정노 Jungno Lee , 박성민 Sung-min Park

DOI:

Abstract

In the present study, we have refined gomisin N, which represents activity in the proliferation of dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) from the fruit of Schisandra chinensis (S. chinensis), and have identified optimal extraction conditions for obtaining extracts with high content of gomisin N. The activity of the extracts and fractions was evaluated, and the results indicated approximately 29% proliferation activity in the group treated with 1 μg/mL of n-hexane fraction. Column chromatography was used to assess the active ingredient in the n-hexane fraction, and two compounds, namely gomisin N(1) and schisandrin(2), were isolated and identified. When the HFDPCs proliferation activity was tested for the isolated compounds, gomisin N exhibited ≥ 20% proliferation activity. Thus, via response surface methodology (RSM), the optimum extraction conditions to obtain the maximum level of gomisin N from the fruit of S. chinensis were determined, where ethanol proportion, extraction time, and extraction temperature were used as the independent variables. The results revealed coefficient of determination ≥ 0.95 and p-value ≤ 0.05, which confirmed the fit of the model. The optimum extraction conditions to achieve the maximum content of gomisin N were as follows: ethanol proportion 83.8%, extraction temperature 80 ℃, and extraction time 8.7 h. The content of gomisin N using these conditions was predicted as 378,300 ppm, and a mean value close to the predicted value (376,884 ppm) was obtained while validating the aforementioned conditions.

Key Words

Schisandra chinensis, gomisin N, schizandrin, dermal papilla cells proliferation, RSM