권진관 Jin Gwan Kwon , 정연우 Yeon Woo Jung , 서찬곤 Changon Seo , 홍성수 Seong Su Hong , 신현탁 Hyun Tak Shin , 정수영 Su Young Jung , 최정준 Jeong June Choi , 김진규 Jin Kyu Kim

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Abstract

This study attempted to eatablish a high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis method for the determination of avicularin, quercitrin as a part of the quality control for the development of functional cosmetic materials from Astilbe chinensis extract. HPLC was performed on a Capcell Pak C₁₈ MGII column with a gradient elution of 0.05% (v/v) trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) and acetonitrile at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min at 30 ℃. The analyte was detected at 254 nm. The HPLC method was performed in accordance with the international conference on harmonization (ICH) guideline (version 4, 2005) of analytical procedures with respect to specificity, precision, accuracy, and linearity. The limits of detection and quantitation of avicularin and quercitrin were 0.094 and 0.285 mg/mL, 0.031 and 0.095 mg/mL respectively. Calibration curves showed good linearity r² > 0.99990 for avicularin and r² > 0.99994 for quercitrin. Precision of analysis was satisfied with less than 0.59% for avicularin and 0.63% for quercitrin. Recoveries of quantified compounds ranged from 100.97 to 101.77% for avicularin and 100.18 to 100.32% for quercitrin. These result indicated that the established HPLC method is very useful for the determination of marker compounds in A. chinensis extracts.

Key Words

Astilbe chinensis, avicularin, functional cosmetic, HPLC, quercitrin, validation

김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 조성미 Seong Mi Jo , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated anti-oxidative and anti-bacterial constituents from Rhododendron weyrichii leaves. DPPH and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activities were screened for the ethanol extract and solvent fractions. Potent scavenging activities were appeared from the extract, ethyl acetate (EtOAc) and n-butanol (BuOH) fractions. Upon the anti-bacterial tests using Staphylococcus epidermidis and Propionibacterium acnes, extract, n-hexane (Hex) and EtOAc fractions showed strong activities. To isolate the active constituents, the EtOAc fraction was further purified to afford five phytochemicals; ursolic acid (1), corosolic acid (2), asiatic acid (3), astragalin (4) and isoquercetin (5). All of the compounds 1-5 were isolated for the first time from this plant. Among the isolates, the compound 4 and 5 showed strong DPPH and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activities. Also, compound 3 exhibited the most potent anti-bacterial activity. In addition, the content of astragalin isolated from this plant was determined by UPLC and the quantity was about 8.1 mg/g for the 70% ethanol extract and 34.8 mg/g for the EtOAc fraction. Based on these results, it is concluded that R. weyrichii extract could be potentially applicable as anti-oxidative and anti-bacterial ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

Key Words

Rhododendron weyrichii, anti-oxidation, anti-bacterial activity, isolation

남개원 Gaewon Nam

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Abstract

Using Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1, keratin peptides were produced and confirmed factors related to the scalp and hair. The cytotoxicity and proliferation tests as a function of the concentration of the keratin peptide did not show toxicity and effect on the cellular proliferation in the immortalized human hair dermal papilla cell line. Hair shampoos and hair essences containing keratin peptides were produced, and conducted human patch test. Result showed no skin irritation. The shampoo and the essence were apploed to 2 groups of 30 healthy adults for 4 weeks and showed statistically significant positive results for gloss, hair loss, scalp trouble, and hair roughness by visual assessment. The scalp water content was significantly increased after 2 and 4 weeks compared to before using the shampoo or the essence. Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and the sebum secretion amount in the scalp were significantly decreased after 4 weeks compared to before. The frictional force against combing before and after using the hair shampoo and the essence for normal hair tress and damaged hair tress was significantly changed. The combing force was increased for normal hair tress and decreased for damaged hair tress. In conclusion, we suggest that keratin peptides are appropriated as cosmetic ingredients to be used in hair and scalp related products.

Key Words

Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1, keratin peptide, hair, scalp, combing

이지선 Jeesun Lee , 명철환 Cheol Hwan Myung , 이지은 Ji Eun Lee , 조미래 Mi-rae Jo , 김홍석 Hong-suk Kim , 이나영 Na-young Lee , 우희동 Heedong Woo , 유재은 Jaeeun You , 조해 Hae Jo , 황재성 Jae Sung Hwang

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Abstract

The leaves and stems of Centella asiatica have a long history of their usage as a medicine for the treatment of skin diseases such as ulcers and psoriasis, especially in Asia. Triterpenoids, the active components of Centella asiatica including asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid, have shown to inhibit skin inflammation as well as improve skin photoaging. The main objective of this study is to investigate whether the Centella asiatica ripened with lava seawater which is rich in minerals known to be beneficial to human body can provide anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effects to skin. HPLC analysis showed that the concentration of triterpenoids increased further after ripening Centella asiatica with lava seawater. In order to confirm the inflammatory efficacy of the extract of the extract of the ripened Centella asiatica, the production of NO in LPS-activated RAW 264.7 cells and the expression of inflammatory cytokines in PM10 or UVB-induced HaCaT cells were observed. We found that the extract of the ripened Centella asiatica inhibited the expression of NO, IL-6, IL-8, and TNF-a and had higher inhibitory effect compared to the extract of the non-ripened Centella asiatica. In order to confirm the skin moisturizing effect, we investigated the synthesis of HA in HaCaT cells. The result showed HA production was enhanced in a concentration-dependent manner from the ripened group, while there was no efficacy from the non-ripened group. Taken together, it is concluded that the extract of the Centella asiatica ripened with lava seawater was effective in anti-inflammation and moisturization.

Key Words

Centella asiatica, lava sea water fermentation, Centella extract, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing agent

장민열 Minyoul Chang

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Abstract

There are many differences in trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), skin water contents, and skin elasticity, etc between face and forearm skin. In particular, our previous studies showed that elasticity of face skin was significantly differed from forearm depending on full hydration. So, we have studied the surface properties of corneocyte using atomic force microscopy (AFM), assuming that the differences between face and forearm skin would be associated with the surface properties of corneocyte. The surface roughness of corneocyte and villus-like projections (VPs) were measured. Furthermore, qualitative comparison among the surface of face, forearm, and lip corneocyte was performed. Corneocytes were collected by tape-stripping on both face and forearm of 8 volunteers, and the bottom surface of corneocytes were measured at 40 μm × 40 μm using AFM. Results showed that the lower surface roughness of face corneocytes was 388.34 ± 86.189 nm, and that of forearm corneocytes was 662.27 ± 224.257 nm, which confirmed that the lower surface of forearm corneocytes was more rough than that of face corneocytes (p < 0.001). Compared with the amount of VPs, lip corneocytes were the highest followed by face corneocytes, and forearm corneocytes were the lowest. From these results, it is conclued that the surface properties of corneocytes are somewhat involved in the property differences between the face and the forearm skin and VPs can be a useful parameter for the study of corneocyte by site. In addition, AFM is a very useful device for the comparative study of nano-structural differences on the surface of corneocytes. More studies can lead to develop a new evaluation method of corneocytes.

Key Words

corneocyte, surface roughness, atomic force microscopy (AFM), villus-like projections (VPs), face skin, and forearm skin

민서림 Seorim Min , 명준오 Jooonoh Myoung , 김병현 Byunghyun Kim , 김태훈 Taehoon Kim , 황승진 Seung Jin Hwang , 임준만 Jun-man Lim , 진무현 Mu Hyun Jin

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Abstract

Recently, the importance of individual skin characteristic is emphasized for customized beauty products. There are many studies on the concept of the syndrome differentiation, related to individual cosmetics in Korean Medicine. However, skin characteristic according to Yin deficiency syndrome (YDS), which is associated with aging, are yet to be clarified. The objective of this study was to evaluate the skin characteristic and questionnaire of female with YDS compare to with non-YDS. 218 healthy females between 40 and 59 years of age were assessed for the skin hydration, elasticity, brightness (L* value), redness (a* value), pore, pigmentation, wrinkle, and sebum by Corneometerr^®, Cutometerr^®, and Janus lll. Independent t-test showed lower hydration, lower elasticity, and higher redness in the YDS group compared to the non-YDS group (all p < 0.05). There was significant difference on the facial fever, insomnia, decreased amount of urine, and skin sensitive checklist. These results suggested that using the questionnaire associated with YDS and skin characteristic could separate skin types and apply to customized beauty products.

Key Words

Yin deficiency syndrome, hydration, elasticity, facial color, questionnaire

최다희 Da Hee Choi , 전경찬 Gyeongchan Jeon , 윤지희 Jihee Yoon , 민지호 Jiho Min , 박시준 Si Jun Park , 김정수 Jung Su Kim , 황이택 Ee Taek Hwang , 황형서 Hyung Seo Hwang

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Abstract

Lysosomes are cellular organelles involved in energy metabolism and intracellular digestion in eukaryotic cells, including protease, nuclease, glycosidase, lipase, and phosphatase. Our previous studies have confirmed that egg white lysosomes had melanin decolorization and reduction activity. However, there have been few studies on skin barrier and skin regeneration as well as inhibition of melanin production by egg white lysosomes on B16F10 melanocyte cell line. In this study, we attempted to identify the effect of lysosome-related organelle extract (LOE) extracted from egg white on the melanin content change and skin barrier enhancement in cells. First, cytotoxicity evaluation was performed on B16F10 melanocyte cell line to confirm the whitening efficacy of LOE. Cytotoxicity by LOE was not observed at 20 mg/mL concentration, but cytotoxicity was observed at 40 mg/mL, and the maximum concentration value was set to 20 mg/mL in all subsequent experiments. LOE samples of 5, 10, 20 mg/mL inhibited melanin production by 61.5 ± 4.0%, 61.4 ± 7.3%, 58.3 ± 8.3%, respectivly, compared to α-MSH, a negative control in melanin contents assay. MITF mRNA expression was reduced by about 39.7 ± 3.2% compared to the α-MSH treatment group. TEER assay using HaCaT showed that LOE increased TEER resistance in a dose-dependent manner, indicating that LOE is involved in strengthening the skin barrier. LOE also increased the TEER resistance under TNF-α treatment. Skin barrier was normally restored by LOE even under the condition of inflammation. LOE had a positive effect on cell division and cell migration promotion, confirmed by the observing the effect of promoting cell migration by LOE through cell migration assay. Taken together, we expect that LOE can be developed as a cosmetic material to enhance has effects on skin regeneration and skin barrier strengthening as well as whitening function if enzyme stabilization and formulation technology are combined.

Key Words

egg white, lysosome-related organelle extract (LOE), whitening effect, TEER, wound healing

조중희 Joong Hee Cho , 김지형 Ji Hyeung Kim , 엄선아 Sun Ah Eom , 강민정 Min Jeong Kang , 한영선 Young Sun Han , 허명제 Myong Je Hur

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Abstract

Arbutin, which is used as a whitening ingredient, can produce hydroquinone, known as causing skin disease and carcinogen. Preservatives are essential to prevent microbial contamination during long-term storage and use of cosmetics, but safety issues such as toxicity and skin irritation are being raised. This study was conducted to determine hydroquinone and 21 preservatives levels in 40 arbutin-containing whitening functional cosmetics sold on-line and off-line. Result showed that 9 products contained hydroquinone. The concentrations in 7 products were ranged from 0.3 to 0.9 ppm, which were within the maximum allowed amount established by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. However, 2 products were 8.4 and 50.5 ppm and exceeded the allowed amount. Preservatives were detected 20 products. Detected items and ranges were phenoxy ethanol 0.1 ∼ 0.7% (N = 15), Methyl paraben 0.19 ∼ 0.21% (N = 2), Chlorphenesin 0.13% (N = 1), chlorhexidine 0.006% (N = 1), Propyl paraben 0.06% (N = 1), which were within maximum allowed amount established by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. Also, in cases of functional cosmetics the phrase "functional cosmetics" should be expressed on the primary or secondary package of cosmetics by cosmetics act. However, 1 product did not state the phrase as functional cosmetics. This study suggest that preservatives were safely managed. However, hydroquinone in hydroquinone-detected products could be produced by the decomposition of arbutin. Thus, further studies on the decomposition of arbutin are required to improve the quality control of the cosmetics.

Key Words

cosmetic, hydroquinone, preservatives, skin whitening, HPLC

최이건 Yigun Choi , 최종민 Jongmin Choi , 김효중 Hyojoong Kim

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Abstract

Silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane (PMSQ) are silicone powders widely used as cosmetics. We synthesized silica-PMSQ composites via sol-gel method using tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) and methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) as precursors of silica and PMSQ, respectively. Shape of the composites was controlled by varying the ratios of TEOS and MTMS, which were used as silane monomers. Silica-PMSQ composites showed three different shapes, which were sphere-shape, raspberry- shape, and donut- shape. All of them had soft touch, easy water dispersion, and soft focus effect in common. However, each shape showed some differences in sense of use, adhesion, and strength of the soft focus effect. Raspberry-shape composite had the strongest soft focus effect, donut-shape one had the strongest adhesion, and sphere-shape one had the best in softness. Thus, it is concluded that by varying the ratios of TEOS and MTMS silica-PMSQ composites could be easily synthesized into different shapes, providing various functions. This method can be applied to manufacture functional cosmetics.

Key Words

silica, polymethylsilsesquioxane, composite, morphology control, soft focus effect

우현주 Hyunjoo Woo , 유지영 Jiyoung You , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung

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Abstract

Human epidermal stem cells(ESCs) residing in the basement membrane of the skin have an important role in maintenance of skin homeostasis of epidermal layer. Although, ESCs provide new cells to repair damaged tissue in response to tissue injury, subsets of stem cells remain in the quiescent state protected from differentiation and senescence for prolonged survivals. In this perspective, the stem cell niche, which is specific microenvironment composed of niche cells and an extracellular matrix(ECM), supplies the relevant signal to save stem cells from microenvironmental damages. The expression of stemness marker on the surface of ESCs contributes to the attachment on their ECM of the basement membrane, which lead to growth potential and apoptotic resistance against environmental stimuli. In this study, we observed that UV irradiation, a major factor of environmental stimuli, reduced the expression of α2, β1 and α6 integrin in ESCs. Rhus Semialata M extract(RSE) showed inhibitory effect on the UVB-induced reduction of integrin expression. Furthermore, RSE could upregulate the expression of Col-IV and Laminin, which contribute to the attachment of ESCs. These results indicated that RSE could be a potent ingredient for the protection of ESCs from UV irradiation by increasing the expression of integrin and substrate ECM components at their niche.

Key Words

Epidermal stem cell, Rhus Semialata M, Extracellualr matrix, stem cell niche