박신희 Sin-hee Rark , 송서현 Seo-hyeon Song , 김현주 Hyun-joo Kim , 조윤식 Youn-sik Cho , 김애란 Ae-ran Kim , 김범호 Beom-ho Kim , 홍미연 Mi-yeun Hong , 박상현 Sang-hyun Park , 윤미혜 Mi-hye Yoon

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Abstract

Phthalates, endocrine disrupting chemicals, are similar in structure to sex hormones and mainly show reproductive toxicity and developmental toxicity. In this study, we analyzed 11 phthalates, including 3 kinds of phthalates prohibited in cosmetic use and 8 kinds of phthalates regulated in ‘Common standards for children’s products safety’ and EU cosmetic regulation (EC No. 1223/2009). The phthalate analysis was optimized using GC-MS/MS. In analytical method validation, this method was satisfied in specificity, linearity, recovery rate, accuracy and MQL. Therefore, we used this method to analyze 82 products of Nail cosmetics & polish. Although six phthalates such as DBP, BBP, DEHP, DPP, DIBP and DIDP were detected at concentrations of 1.0 ∼ 59.8 ㎍/g, they were suitable to Korean cosmetic standards. DIBP and DBP were detected at concentration of 1.1 ∼ 2.6 ㎍/g in artificial nail, DBP and DEHP were 1.4 ∼ 2.5 ㎍/g in glue for nails, and DIBP, DBP, and DEHP were 2.5 ∼ 33.3 ㎍/g in nail stickers. Although substances such as DBP and DEHP in artificial nail, Glue for nails, and nail stickers were detected, they were suitable to ‘Common safety standards for children’s products. DIBP is not a regulated substance in Korea but showed the third highest detection rate following DBP (84.6%) and DEHP (63.4%). The concentration of phthalates detected in nail products is considered to be safe in current standards but continuous monitoring and research about non-regulated substances are also needed to be considered.

Key Words

nail polish, phthalates, cosmetic regulations, GC-MS/MS, validations

소양강 Yangkang So , 황지영 Ji Young Hwang , 김현우 Hyun Woo Kim , 조하늘 Ha Neul Jo , 이태범 Tae-bum Lee

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Abstract

Cymbopogon citratus (CC) and Perilla frutescens (PF) are known to exert various biological effects. However, their skin hydration and skin barrier effects remain unclear. This study investigated effects of their extracts on skin hydration and skin barrier and analysed the phenolic compounds. effects of these extracts on skin hydration in HaCaT cells showed that Hyaluronic acid production in cells treated with ethanol extracts was higher than that treated with water extracts for both CC and PF. HPLC was used to analyse 19 phenolic compounds in CC and PF ethanol extracts (CCE and PFE). Results revealed chlorogenic acid and p-coumaric acid in CCE and rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid in PFE. Expression levels of hyaluronan synthase 1 (HAS1), HAS2, HAS3, and aquaporin 3 (AQP3), which are related to skin moisturization, and filaggrin and loricrin, which are related to skin barrier were higher in cells treated with CCE than with PFE. CCE and PFE also increased expression of PPAR-a protein involved in skin moisturization and epidermal differentiation in a concentration-dependent manner. As major components of CCE, chlorogenic acid and p-coumaric acid increased PPAR-a protein expression. Thus, CCE and PFE could be used as functional cosmetic materials for skin hydration and skin barrier effects.

Key Words

Cymbopogon citratus, Perilla frutescens, skin hydration, skin barrier, keratinocyte

류상덕 Sang Deok Ryu , 허민근 Min Geun Heo , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

This study is focused on the effect of sodium stearate, which is a hydrophilic gelling agent affecting on the hardness of O/W solid sunscreen cosmetic. The sunscreen of the O/W (oil in water) type is stable, good in use, and relatively easier to stabilize than the sunscreen of the W/O (water in oil) type. Methods for increasing the stability by using emulsifiers, electrolytes, and wax or oil have been studied for solid sunscreen. This study was intended to develop a solid sunscreen stabilized by increasing the hardness using sodium stearate as an O/W type containing more than 40% moisture. Response surface methodology (RSM) was used to analyze the factors affecting the hardness of cosmetics, and sodium stearate, polyol and oil were used for each factor. The hardness and the reaction value was measured using a rheometer. As a result, sodium stearate showed a meaningful value (p < 0.05) among the three factors affecting hardness. In addition, the use of sodium stearate as a hydrophilic gelling agent increased the usability and stability of the solid sunscreen.

Key Words

sodium stearate, response surface methodology (RSM), solid sunscreen cosmetics, rheometer, hardness

이상명 Sang Myung Lee

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Abstract

Isomaltol glycoside is a hydrophilic furanic glycoside in which the amino acids and sugars of ginseng are thermally denatured during red ginseng production. Various skin whitening tests were conducted on isomaltol glycoside containing a lot of red ginseng extract in order to investigate the skin whitening effect as a cosmetic raw material. We have tested melanin content assay in B16-F10 cells, zebrafish embryo pigmentation assay, mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity, western blot analysis to determine skin whitening activity of isomaltol glycosides. In the zebrafish melanin content assay, isomaltol glycoside decreased total melanin content by about 20% and zebrafish tyrosinase activity by about 10% after treatment with 50 and 100 μg/mL compared to the untreated control group. Isomaltol glycoside also showed a concentration-dependent decrease in melanin content in B16-F10 melanoma. Furthermore, it increased the expression of MITF phosphorylation factors p-AKT and p-ERK in B16-F10 melanoma and decreased the concentration of MITF. It also inhibited tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 expression. The content of isomaltol glycoside was about 3% in the ginseng extract and about 1% in the ginseng root. Thus, isomaltol glycoside is considered as one of the main components that exhibit the whitening activity of ginseng when considered quantitatively as whitening activity.

Key Words

skin whitening, antimelanogenesis, isomaltol glycoside, Red ginseng

안규민 Gyu Min An , 박수인 Su In Park , 김민기 Min Gi Kim , 허수현 Soo Hyeon Heo , 신문삼 Moon Sam Shin

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Abstract

This study was conducted to investigate physiological activity and its skin permeability of Petroselinum crispum extract using polymer micelles and cell penetrating peptide. In the antioxidant test, the total concentrations of polyphenol compounds were determined to be 121.68 ± 2.49 mg/g (for ethanol extract and), 72.42 ± 1.52 mg/g (for hydrothermal extract.). The DPPH radical scavenging ability was 90.48 ± 0.46% (for ethanol extract) and 83.92 ± 0.13% (for hydrothermal extract) at 2000 mg/L. ABTS radical scavenging ability was 91.08 ± 0.14% for ethanol extract ethanol extract, which is higher than that of hydrothermal extract at 800 mg/L (69.63 ± 0.55%). In the SOD experiments, the P. crispum ethanol extract showed higher SOD activity than that of the P. crispum hydrothermal extract at all concentrations. At a concentration of 16,000 mg/L, P. crispum ethanol extract showed the highest SOD activity of 128.45 ± 0.70%. The elastase inhibitory assay also showed concentration dependence and elastase inhibition of P. crispum ethanol extract was 99.99 ± 1.54%, which was the highest at 2,000 mg/L. To solve the problem of insolubility and to improve skin permeability of the extract, PCL-PEG polymer micelle containing P. crispum ethanol extracts and 1% cell permeable peptide, hexa-D-arginine (R6) were successfully prepared with a particle size of 40.10 nm. In the results of 24 hours of skin permeation experiment, total accumulated beta-carotene amounts showed 37.99 μg/cm² in Petroselinum crispum extracts and 68.38 μg/cm² (1.8 times) in P. crispum extract of the particles.

Key Words

antioxidant, ethanol extract, Petroselinum crispum, polymer micelle, skin permeability

이청희 Chung-hee Lee , 배준태 Jun-tae Bae , 홍진태 Jin-tae Hong

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Abstract

In this study, effective cosmetic raw material weighing and bulk manufacturing management system were constructed by using bar code or quick response code (QR code) and database. Raw material labels and weighing labels for bulk manufacturing were published in web environment using the information entered in the database using ScriptX, a print component of Medi&Co. By checking the weighing and manufacturing process by using scanner, tablet and PC, it was possible to remarkably improve the product error caused by erroneous amount or misapplication which is the most cause of error in the production of cosmetic bulk. In conclusion, applying a database that utilizes bar code and QR code to cosmetics manufacturing can reduce the various problems in the process, thereby improving quality control and productivity of cosmetics.

Key Words

weighing and bulk manufacturing management system, weighing label, ScriptX, bar code, quick response (QR) code

박채훤 Che Hwon Park , 박장호 Jang Ho Park , 민선영 Seon Young Min , 김경민 Kyungmin Kim , 김수영 Suyeong Kim , 박영진 Young Jin Park

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Abstract

This study was carried out to evaluate the antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and whitening effect of Hordeum vulgare L. extracts and their fractions. Total polyphenol and flavonoid contents in fractions were varied from 13.58 to 40.06 mg GAE/g and 7.67 ∼ 13.67 mg CE/g, respectively. Among the three fractions(chloroform, hexane, and water), 400 μg/mL of the chroloform fraction showed similar antioxidant activity to ascorbic acid (30 μM) against the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical. The chloroform and hexane fractions inhibited the NO production of RAW 264.7 cells similar to quercetin (15 μM) and the chloroform fraction of 100 μg/mL significantly reduced IL-6, iNOS and COX2 gene expression. Additionally, the chloroform fraction inhibited β-hexosaminidase degranulation, IL-4, and IL-13 gene expression in RBL-2H3 cells. All of the fractions inhibited tyrosinase activity in a concentration-dependent manner, and the hexane fraction at 50 μg/mL and the chloroform fraction at 100 μg/mL significantly inhibited melanin production of B16F10 cells. These results indicated that H. vulgare L. can be used as an effective cosmetic ingredient having anti-inflammation and whitening activity.

Key Words

antioxidant, anti-inflammation, tyrosinase, Hordeum vulgare L., whitening activity

강상문 Sang Moon Kang , 박청 Chung Park

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Abstract

Ginseng berry (GB) contains Ginsenoside Re and has anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle properties. In this study, TLC fractions 1, 2, and 4 of the ginseng berry amino acid complex were identified and analyzed by HPLC. And identified a peptide (AP-1) by LC/MASS analysis of fraction 1. The anti-inflammatory activity was confirmed by investigating the inhibitory effect of AP-1 on NO production. In addition, collagen synthesis using procollagen type I C-peptide (PIP) ELISA kit was 50% higher effective than that of the control group. From these results, the peptide isolated from ginseng berry amino acid complex is considered to have anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle effect, and may be useful as an anti-inflammatory and anti-aging cosmetic raw material.

Key Words

Ginseng berry, peptide, anti-inflammatory, wrinkle improvement, anti-aging

김유아 You Ah Kim , 전태병 Tae Byeong Jeon , 장욱주 Wookju Jang , 박병준 Byoung Jun Park , 강학희 Hakhee Kang

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Abstract

To develop sustainable new natural anti-aging ingredients from Korean native plants, we investigated the cultivation potential of Nymphoides indica using the eco-friendly aquaponics system, and tested the anti-aging effects from N. indica extracts. N. indica could be grown in aquaponics system using floating leaved deep water culture method, and propagated through rhizome propagation. It was confirmed that the nitrate (80 μg/mL), potassium (63.5 μg/mL) and water temperature (25 ℃) greatly affected the cultivation of the N. indica. In addition, synergistic effects were found when two major components (3,7-di-O-methylquercetin-4’-O-β-glucoside & sweroside) were present at more than about 5 μg/mL. The extract had a significant effect on the recovery of skin cells damaged by environmental pollutant such as benzo[α]pyrene, ammonium nitrate, formaldehyde. It also suppressed PGE₂, TNF-α and COX-2, and inhibited the production of MMP-1. Taken together, the results suggested that the standardized extracts of N. indica cultivated in the aquaponics has considerable potential as a new cosmetics ingredient with an anti-aging effect.

Key Words

sustainable aquaponics, Nymphoides indica, standardization, anti-aging

박다원 Dawon Park , 최우석 Woo Seok Choi , 이창현 Chang Hyeon Lee

DOI:

Abstract

This study was conducted to find a solvent, a extraction method and optimized conditions for Artemisia iwayomogi extract. which is effective to anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. A. iwayomogi extract by distilled water, ethanol, methanol, hexane and ethyl acetate using ultrasonic, high-pressure and supercritical extraction was investigated for NO inhibitory and DPPH radical scavenging activity. Extract obtained by ethanol and ultrasonic extraction method showed high NO production inhibitory activity, DPPH free radical scavenging activity and yield. Response surface methodology (RSM) was applied to find a optimized ultrasonic extraction conditions. Results showed that the optimum conditions for the higher yield were ethanol solvent of 45.71% concentration with extraction time and ultrasonic power of 63.33min and 308.84 W, respectively. This condition predicted 15.85% yield, but real yield was 16.40 ± 0.28%. The optimum conditions for simultaneous anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity were established as ethanol concentration (80.81%), extraction time (90.00 min) and ultrasonic power (400.00 W). NO production inhibitory and antioxidant activity were 89.77 ± 1.37% and 60.12 ± 0.39%, respectively. These results showed similar to the predicted values of 94.54%, 58.03% respectively.

Key Words

Artemisia iwayomogi, extraction, response surface methodology (RSM), anti-inflammation, antioxidant