홍성윤 Sung Yun Hong , 장유진 Yujin Chang , 이준배 Jun Bae Lee , 박천호 Chun Ho Park , 박명삼 Myung Sam Park

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Abstract

We introduce to prepare liquid crystalline emulsion composed of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan olivate, ceramide and so on which can enforce interface between oil-based particle and water phase. In terms of structural analysis, the stability of the liquid crystalline emulsion including ceramide, which is immisible ingredient, at high temperature was proved by polarized microscope, cryo-SEM, small-angle x-ray scattering, in addition to viscometer and static light scattering by physical analysis.

Key Words

liquid crystalline emulsion, ceramide, static light scattering, formulation stability

권구철 Koo Chul Kwon , 이성우 Sung Woo Lee , 안병준 Byungjun Ahn , 강내규 Nae-gyu Kang , 박선규 Sun Gyoo Park , 박상욱 Sang Wook Park

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Abstract

In this study, L-α-amino acid, which is a constituent of natural moisturizing factor, was applied to skin in periodic cycle to improve skin tone and texture roughness. Based on the polarity of the alkyl group (R) of the L-α-amino acid, the acid was categorized into two groups and their efficacy was studied. As a result, it was found that the improvement rate of L-α-amino acid complex with polar alkyl group (L-α-AAC-1) is 21% higher than that of L-α-amino acid complex with non-polar alkyl group (L-α-AAC-2). For clinical trials, emulsions containing L-α-amino acid complex (L-α-AAC-1) were applied to the randomly selected 20 to 40 year old female participants, as an experimental group, on the right facial cheek once per day for 8 weeks, and emulsions without L-α-amino acid complex, as a control group, were applied to the left facial cheek in the same way. Improvements in skin tone were measured using JANUS^® equipment and analyzed using image analysis software. Skin texture improvement was measured and analyzed mechanically using the phaseshift rapid in-vivo measurement of the skin (PRIMOS) equipment. As a result, improvements of skin tone and Skin texture were 11.7% and 6.7%, respectively. In addition, a questionnaire survey was conducted to the participants on the aesthetic improvement and the degree of the feeling of skin improvement. The results suggest that L-α-amino acid can be used as a cosmetic substance that can provide aesthetic satisfaction through physiological skin tone and texture roughness.

Key Words

L-α-amino acid, periodic appication, skin tone, texture roughness, sensory efficacy

손다희 Dahee Son , 김민경 Minkyung Kim , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung

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Abstract

Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) are final products formed by glycation reaction between reducing sugars and proteins, lipids or nucleic acids. These AGEs are related to progress of skin aging. In this study, we evaluate anti-aging activity of Defatted Torreya nucifera seed extract (DTSE) through antioxidant, anti-glycation, anti-elastase and inhibitory and breaking activity on the cross-linking of AGEs to collagen assay. Results showed that DTSE contained polyphenols and flavonoids. The IC₅₀ values of 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) free radical and 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging activity were 16.4 μg (Dried materials, DM)/mL and 16.7 μg DM/mL, respectively. DTSE also inhibited the formation of AGEs, elastase activity and cross-linking of AGEs to collagen as well as broke existing cross-linking of AGEs to collagen in a dose-dependent manner. Consequently, our findings suggest that DTSE could be useful as a cosmetic material with anti-aging activity.

Key Words

Torreya nucifera, AGEs, anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-glycation

김은주 Eun Ju Kim , 심명국 Myeong Kuk Shim , 정아람 A Ram Jeong , 김애정 Ae Jung Kim

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Abstract

Soybean (Glycine max), as one of the foods with high plant proteins, contains a large amount of bioactive compounds and known to be effective in cardiovascular disease and obesity as well as in improving skin condition. The purpose of this study was to investigate the anti-photoaging effects of soybean fermented with Lactobacillus Rhamnosus (Bio-Peptone^®) by assessment of cytotoxicity against UVB, collagen synthesis after UVB-irradiation, tyrosinase activity, and melanin synthesis. Results showed that Bio-Peptone^® protected skin fibroblasts against UVB-induced cytotoxicity and increased type Ⅰ collagen synthesis. Furthermore, Bio-Peptone^® significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and reduced melanin contents. This study suggests that Bio-Peptone^® has protective effects against UVB-induced skin damage. Thus, it is concluded that Bio-Peptone^® is able to prevent skin damage against UVB and thus acts as anti-photoaging materials by protecting skin forming wrinkles and skin pigments.

Key Words

soy peptide, biological active peptide, photoaging, UVB, collagen

최다희 Da Hee Choi , 김미란 Mi Ran Kim , 김민영 Min Young Kim , 김호현 Ho Hyun Kim , 박선영 Sun-young Park , 황형서 Hyung Seo Hwang

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Abstract

Recently, due to the increase in skin diseases caused by particulate matter, endocrine disruptor and environmental changes, the trend of development of cosmetic materials has been shifting to the more safe and effective ingredients based on natural materials rather than existing synthetic compounds like steroids and antihistamines. This study aimed to develop a new natural cosmetic materials using oriental herbs such as Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus. First, DPPH assay was performed to examine the antioxidative activity of the herbal extract (Mix) and 98.8% DPPH radical scavenging activity was confirmed at 400 μg/mL concentration of it. In order to confirm the whitening efficacy of oriental herbal extracts(mix), the amount of melanin synthesized after stimulation of α-MSH with B16F10 cells was measured. Results showed that it was decreased to 27.1% comparing with the only α-MSH treated group, which confirmed the whitening efficacy. Also, both nitric oxide(NO) production and iNOS and COX-2 expression were significantly reduced in RAW264.7 macrophages activated by LPS in the presence of the extracts(Mix). The mRNA expression of the inflammatory cytokines such as IL-1α, IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-α was also analyzed to confirm the inhibition effect of the extracts on inflammation. Finally, to confirm the enhancement of skin barrier function, the expression of claudin 1 gene, a tight junction protein, was observed using human keratinocyte HaCaT cells and increased as concentration dependent manner. From these results, it is concluded that the oriental herbal extracts(Mix) containing Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus is effective for antioxidant, anti-inflammation, skin whitening, and skin barrier and thus could be applied as a new natural cosmetic material.

Key Words

Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel, Bombyx batryticatus, anti-inflammation, whitening efficacy, claudin 1

안영제 Young Je Ahn , 장윤희 Yun Hee Chang , 이소영 So Young Lee , 진무현 Mu Hyun Jin

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Abstract

Pueraria thomsonii Benth. as a medicinal ingredient, has been traditionally used in Chinese medicine to treat fever, acute dysentery, diarrhea, diabetes, and cardiovascular disease. The effects of P. thomsonii flower on skin have not been reported yet. In this study, the whitening effect of P. thomsonii flower was verified using B16F1 melanoma cells and HS68 fibroblasts. P. thomsonii flower extract reduced melanin contents of B16F1 cells in a dose-dependent manner. To identify its active components, we analyzed P. thomsonii flower extract using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). As a result, we identified three major isoflavones of tectorigenin, tectoridin, and tectorigenin 7-O-xylosylglucoside. At a non-cytotoxic concentration, the three components also reduced melanin contents of B16F1 cells in a dose-dependent manner. The depigmentation effects were attributed to the reduced gene expression of tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). In order to elucidate another depigmentation mechanism, their effects on DKK-1, a fibroblast-derived depigmentation factor, was determined in HS68 cells. As a result, P. thomsonii flower extracts, tectoridin and tectorigenin 7-O-xylosylglucoside, reduced DKK-1 gene expression, while tectorigenin increased DKK-1 gene expression in a dose-dependent manner. These results suggest that tectorigenin can be used as an effective whitening agent that inhibit melanin synthesis in melanocytes and promote the secretion of depigmentation factor from fibroblasts.

Key Words

Pueraria thomsonii Benth, tectorigenin, tectoridin, tectorigenin 7-O-xylosylglucoside, tyrosinase

석진경 Jin Kyung Seok , 최민아 Min A Choi , 하재원 Jae Won Ha , 부용출 Yong Chool Boo

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Abstract

Particulate matters with a diameter of < 10 μm (PM10) exert oxidative stress and inflammatory events in various organs. The purpose of this study was to examine the molecular mechanism of reactive oxygen species (ROS) production induced by PM10 in the human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs). When cultured HEKs were exposed to PM10, ROS production was induced and it was inhibited by apocynin, an antioxidant. The mRNA expression of NADPH oxidase (NOX) family was analyzed in order to examine their role in PM10-induced ROS production. PM10 increased the mRNA expression of NOX1, NOX2, dual oxidase (DUOX) 1 and DUOX2. HEKs expressed DUOX1 and DUOX2 at higher levels compared to other NOXs. The mRNA expression of dual oxidase maturation factors, DUOXA1 and DUOXA2, was also increased by PM10. We examined whether these calcium-dependent enzymes, DUOX1 and DUOX2, mediate the PM10-induced ROS production. A selective intracellular calcium chelator, BAPTA-AM, attenuated ROS production induced by PM10 or calcium ionophore A23187. The small intereference RNA (siRNA)-mediated down-regulation of DUOX2, but not DUOX1, attenuated the ROS production induced by PM10. PM10 increased the expression of inflammatory cytokines such as interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, IL-8 and interferon (IFN)-γ. SiRNA-mediated down-regulation of DUOX2 suppressed the PM10-induced expression of IFN-γ but not other cytokines. This study suggests that DUOX2 plays a crucial role in ROS production and inflammatory response in PM10-exposed keratinocytes.

Key Words

airborne particulate matters, dual oxidase 2, reactive oxygen species, calcium ion, keratinocytes

조상훈 Sang Hun Cho , 정홍래 Hong Rae Jung , 김영숙 Young Sug Kim , 김양희 Yang Hee Kim , 박은미 Eun Mi Park , 신상운 Sang Woon Shin , 엄경숙 Kyoung Suk Eum , 홍세라 Se Ra Hong , 강효정 Hyo Jeong Kang , 윤미혜 Mi Hye Yoon

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Abstract

Preservatives of cosmetics is managed by positive list in Korea. Positive list requires a proper quantitative analysis method, but the analysis method is still insufficient. In this study, gas chromatography with flame ionization detector was used to simultaneously analyze 14 preservatives in cosmetics. As a result of method validation, the specificity was confirmed by the calibration curves of 14 preservatives showing good linearity correlation coefficient of above 0.9997 except dehydroacetic acid (0.9891). The limits of detection (LOD) and quantification (LOQ) of 14 preservatives were 0.0001 mg/mL ~ 0.0039 mg/mL and 0.0003 mg/mL ~ 0.0118 mg/mL, respectively, but they were 0.0204 mg/mL, 0.0617 mg/mL for dehydroacetic acid, respectively. The precision (Repeatability) of the values was less than 1.0%, but 7.1% for dehydroacetic acid. The Accuracy (% recovery) of 14 preservatives in cosmetics showed 96.9% ~ 109.2%. Finally, this method was applied to 50 cosmetics available in market. Results showed that the commonly used preservatives were chlorophene, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and parabens. However, the amount of the detected preservatives was within maximum allowed limits established by KFDA.

Key Words

Preservatives, Gas chromatography, Flame ionization detector, Positive list

유화선 Hwa Sun Ryu , 오성화 Seong-hwa Oh , 이정노 Jung-no Lee , 김희택 Hee-taek Kim , 하헌용 Hun-yong Ha , 김용민 Yong-min Kim , 박성민 Sung-min Park

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Abstract

OMiYakSung theory consists of various herbs that contain at least one or more of the five flavors. This theory has been used to prevent human diseases and enhance the immune system. The main objective of the present study was to investigate efficacy differences and changes in ingredients of blended and single herb extracts based on OMiYakSung theory. We selected three herbs Coptis japonica Makino, Cimicifuga heracleifolia Komarov, and white Poria cocos and assessed their physiological effect. As results, the blended extracts showed excellent cell migration effect at 400 ug/mL concentration, compared to the single extract. In addition, the blended extracts enhanced immune function by increasing the activity of dendritic cells and showed the highest antioxidant activity by DPPH assay and HPLC-ABTS assay. In this study, we developed a new materials that can be applicable to cosmetics and pharmaceuticals field by applying oriental medicine theory.

Key Words

OMiYakSung, five flavor, blended extract, ferulic acid

권진관 Jin Gwan Kwon , 정연우 Yeon Woo Jung , 서찬곤 Changon Seo , 홍성수 Seong Su Hong , 최춘환 Chun Whan Choi , 이지은 Ji Eun Lee , 신현탁 Hyun Tak Shin , 정수영 Su Young Jung , 김진규 Jin Kyu Kim

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Abstract

This study attempted to eatablish a High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) analysis method for the determination of (-)-epicatechin gallate as a part of the quality control for the development of functional cosmetic materials from Penthorum chinense Pursh. HPLC was performed on a Unison US-C₁₈ column (4.6 × 250 mm, 5 μm) with a gradient elution of 0.05% (v/v) trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) and methyl alcohol at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min at 30 ℃. The analyte was detected at 280 nm. The HPLC method was performed in accordance with the International Conference on Harmonization (ICH) guideline (version 4, 2005) of analytical procedures with respect to specificity, precision, accuracy, and linearity. The limits of detection and quantitation were 0.11 and 0.33 mg/mL, respectively. Calibration curves showed good linearity (r² > 0.9999), and the precision of analysis was satisfied (less than 0.6%). Recoveries of quantified compounds ranged from 99.51 to 101.92%. This result indicates that the established HPLC method is very useful for the determination of marker compound in P. chinense Pursh extracts.

Key Words

(-)-epicatechin gallate, Functional cosmetic, HPLC, Penthorum chinense Pursh, Validation

이선주 Seonju Lee , 김미나 Mina Kim , 박성범 Sung Bum Park , 김기영 Ki Young Kim , 박선규 Sun-gyoo Park , 김미선 Mi-sun Kim , 강내규 Nae-gyu Kang

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Abstract

Lips have a defect in maintenance of moisture due to their thin layer. As aging progresses, lips lose volume and redness, and become wrinkled. Fat grafting and filler surgery have been used to achieve attractive lips, but little research has been reported to develop better materials to replace the present methods. Recently, a study suggests that the increase of adipocyte number can be enhancing the expansion endogenous fat. In previous study, we identified that the efficacy of Magnolia officinalis bark extract (MOBE) was effective on the induction of adipogenic differentiation. In this study, we confirmed that MOBE enhanced the differentiation of human adipose-derived stem cells on the fat mimic 3D structure built by 3D bioprinting method From further experiments in human, we established a method to quantify the severity of lip wrinkle by measurement of standard deviation of gray value using Image J software. Finally, we found that topical treatment with 1% MOBE formulated lip balm significantly improved the lip wrinkle after using for 12 weeks. In conclusion, these findings suggest that MOBE has great potential, as a cosmetic ingredient, to reduce the lip wrinkle through the effect of promoting adipogenic differentiation.

Key Words

lip wrinkle, human adipose derived stem cell, adipocyte differentiation, Magnolia officinalis bark extract