전지현 Ji Hyun Jun , 고은아 Eun Ah Ko , 한상근 Sang Gun Han , 강학희 Hakhee Kang

DOI:

Abstract

Instant face lifting cosmetics contain various film forming agents for stretching the wrinkles on the skin surface. But, most of the film-forming polymers have sticky feels. And they are easily scrubbed out when skin is rubbed on. In this study, we focused on the influence of sodium silicate that has rapid film forming effect on skin surface and immediate wrinkle reducing effect. Sodium silicate, also known as water glass or soluble glass, is a compound containing sodium oxide and silica. Sodium silicate is a white powder that is readily soluble in water, producing an alkaline solution. Sodium silicate is stable in neutral and alkaline solutions. The sodium silicate solution hardens by drying in air and rapidly forms a thin film. When the solution is applied to the skin, the fine membrane coating is formed by water evaporation and ionic bond re-formation. It also makes the strong siloxane (Si-O) bonding on the skin surface. When these fixation properties are applied to cosmetics, they can give remarkable skin tightening effect. The sodium silicate solution can provide the lifting effect by forming a film on skin at a proper concentration. But, skin irritation may be caused with too high concentration of sodium silicate. We studied a desirable range of the sodium silicate concentration and combination with other fixatives for skin care formulation that has no sticky feels and no scrubbing out phenomenon. Immediate lifting gel was developed by using sodium silicate and various thickening systems. Among of the various thickeners, aluminum magnesium silicate showed the best compatibility with sodium silicate for rapid lifting effect. This instant physical lifting gel was confirmed as a low stimulating formula by skin clinical test.

Key Words

sodium silicate, film forming agent, skin lifting, wrinkle-reducing

김소라 So Ra Kim , 유단희 Dan Hee Yoo , 염현지 Hyeon Ji Yeom , 오민정 Min Jeong Oh , 이진영 Jin Young Lee

DOI:

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to investigate the role of the Moringa oleifera (M. oleifera) extract as a cosmetic additive. The tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory effects showed 47% and 39% at 1,000 μg/mL concentration, respectively. Also, the collagenase inhibition effect was 31% at 500 μg/mL concentration. A cell viability test, measured on macrophage cell (RAW 264.7) and melanoma cell (B16F10) by ethanol extract of M. oleifera, showed 94.2% and 94.8% at 100 μg/mL concentration, respectively. In order to confirm anti-inflammatory activity, we examined the inhibitory effects on the production of lipopolysaccharides (LPS)-induced NO in RAW 264.7 cells by Griess assay. As a result, the M. oleifera extract showed a concentration-dependent inhibition of NO production. The protein expression inhibitory effects of M. oleifera extract were measured by western blot at 25, 50, 100 μg/mL concentration and the β-actin. Results showed that the expression inhibition rates of the iNOS, COX-2, MITF, TRP-1, TRP-2, tyrosinase protein were decreased by 85.8%, 57.5%, 80.7%, 30%, 29.9%, 23.6% at 100 μg/mL concentration, respectively. It was concluded that M. oleifera extracts had the anti-inflammatory and whitening effects and thus could be applied for cosmetics as a natural ingredient.

Key Words

Moringa oleifera, anti-inflammatory, whitening

장윤정 Yoonjung Jang , 김보라 Bora Kim , 문태기 Tae Kee Moon , 김남수 Nam Soo Kim , 이선화 Sun Hwa Lee , 이혜지 Hye-ji Lee

DOI:

Abstract

The facial skin condition expresses physical healthy as well as is considered one of important factors for attractiveness. Especially, most people prefer shiny skin. So various cosmetics has been manufactured for expression of shiny skin. However, shiny skin is subjectively evaluated, and difficult to evaluate clear shininess using the existing method in oily skin. Moreover, there is no clear classification criteria between shininess and glossiness, which is assessed negatively in the skin. So there has not been a reference value by mechanical measurement to define and classify shiny skin from greasy skin. In this study, we measured skin biophysical parameters (gloss, hydration, translucency and sebum) and facial images which are selected by volunteers using sensory evaluation. According to the measurement results, the values of gloss, sebum, and translucency were similar in both shiny and greasy skin; the values of sebum and gloss increased, whereas those of translucency decreased. However only skin moisture values statistically increased in shiny skin. In conclusion, we propose objective assessment criteria for classifying shiny and greasy skin using device measurement and quantitative assessment.

Key Words

skin gloss, shiny skin, greasy skin, skin hydration, image anlaysis

정희훈 Heehoon Jung , 조욱민 Uk Min Cho , 황형서 Hyung Seo Hwang , 조건 Kun Cho , 이상린 Sang Rin Lee , 김무성 Moo Sung Kim

DOI:

Abstract

Chronic inflammation is known to have effects on various diseases such as gout, cancer, dementia, atopic disease, and obesity. In addition, since some signal cascades involved in the development of inflammation are known to affect the damage and aging of the skin tissue, studies are being conducted actively to control the inflammation mechanism. In order to mitigate or prevent inflammatory response, a number of researches have been made to develop anti-inflammatory materials from some plants. In particular, Stevia rebaudiana produces steviol glycosides (SG), a natural sweetener with a distinctive flavor. Studies on some of SG have been shown to have anti-inflammatory activity. Researchers of this study expected that more SG also possess anti-inflammatory activity, besides stevioside, rebaudioside A, and steviol. In order to confirm this possibility, the researchers screened inhibition activity of various steviol glucosides for NO production in RAW 264.7 cell lines. As a result, steviol β-glucopyranosyl ester (SGE) showed the highest inhibitory activity among steviol derivatives treated at the same molar concentration. In addition, we found that mRNA expression level of interleukin-1α (IL-1α), interleukin-1β (IL-1β), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), nuclear factor kappa- light chain-enhancer of activated B cells (NF-κB) and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) was also decreased in a dose-dependent manner. These results show that SGE inhibits anti-inflammatory activity and NO production in mouse macrophage RAW 264.7 cells. It was confirmed that SGE has potential to be applied as an anti-inflammatory material.

Key Words

steviol β-glucopyranosyl ester, anti-inflammation, NO, inflammatory cytokine, bioconversion

최민아 Min A Choi , 석진경 Jin Kyung Seok , 이정원 Jeong-won Lee , 이신영 Shin Young Lee , 김영미 Young Mi Kim , 부용출 Yong Chool Boo

DOI:

Abstract

Airborne pollution causes oxidative damage, inflammation, and premature aging of skin. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound that has various biological activities such as antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and anti-melanogenic activities but it is unstable to heat and light. Resveratryl triacetate (RTA) is a new cosmetic ingredient that is more stable than resveratrol and its skin safety and whitening efficacy have been reported previously. The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of resveratrol and resveratryl triacetate (RTA) on the inflammatory responses of human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs) exposed to airborne particulate matters with a diameter of < 10 μm (PM10). Cultured HEKs were exposed to PM10 in the absence or presence of resveratrol and RTA. Assays were undertaken to determine cell viability, the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), and the expression of inflammatory cytokines. PM10 treatment decreased cell viability, and increased the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), interleukin-1β (IL-1β), interleukin-6 (IL-6), and interleukin-8 (IL-8). Resveratrol and RTA reduced cell death and ROS production induced by PM10. PM10-induced mRNA expression of the inflammatory cytokines was either attenuated (IL-6), or enhanced (IL-1β), or unaffected (TNF-α and IL-8) by resveratrol and RTA. PM10-induced IL-6 protein expression was attenuated by resveratrol and RTA. This study suggests that resveratrol and RTA have activities regulating cell damage and inflammatory responses of the skin exposed to airborne particulate matters.

Key Words

airborne particulate matters, resveratrol, resveratryl triacetate, keratinocytes, pro-inflammatory cytokines

서영경 Young Kyoung Seo , 김민지 Minji Kim , 김소정 So Jeong Kim , 백지훈 Ji Hwoon Baek , 고재숙 Jae Sook Koh , 양성민 Sung Min Yang , 김종현 Jong Hyun Kim , 임유리 Yoo Ree Lim , 최성원 Sung Won Choi

DOI:

Abstract

In today’s society, where people look younger than their chronological age due to improvements in the quality of life, there is a gaining interest in anti-aging and how people compare to those in the same age group. We evaluated the wrinkle index, which is the most important attribute amongst skin parameters, to evaluate external age (wrinkle age). The wrinkles of the whole face were scored by divided 8 areas (forehead, glabella, nasal root, upper eyelid, lower eyelid, crow’s feet, nasolabial groove and perioral skin) and analyzed the correlation between chronological age and skin parameters. 206 subjects (Korean female, n = 105 and Mongolians female, n = 101) were enrolled. Subjects were divided into four groups by ages: 20s, 30s, 40s, and 50s. Wrinkle scores of 8 areas were evaluated and developed a calculation formula based on the wrinkle scores. Skin characteristic parameters were measured about skin elasticity, pore, wrinkle, sebum secretion. There was no difference between the calculated ages and the chronological ages in Korean women. On the other hand, Mongolian looked older than chronological age by 9 years. The correlation between the facial wrinkle ages and skin physiology parameters was presented in the order of skin elasticity > pore or crow’s feet > skin tone > sebum secretion in both countries. Skin elasticity represented the most related parameter with the facial wrinkle ages. This study identified the skin wrinkle patterns of Korean and Mongolian women and the wrinkle age calculation formula developed from this study can be used as a tool for calculating the facial wrinkle ages in cosmetic studies.

Key Words

wrinkle age, wrinkle pattern in Korean and Mongolian women, skin physiology parameters

송상훈 Sang-hun Song , 박봉정 Bongjeong Park , 손성길 Seong Kil Son , 최수규 Soo Gyu Choi

DOI:

Abstract

This study attempts to quantify amount of coacervate generated in a formulation of shampoo with three methods using optical transmission, suspension in a glass tube, and centrifugation. For the correct data acquisition, each method has been optimized to estimate the amount of coacervate with minimum standard deviation. To simply and quantitatively estimate amount of coacervate, two formulations of shampoo were employed as a large or small amount of coacervate generated. Comparisons of the two formulations in repetitive measurement elucidated that the methods by the centrifugation efficiently can be utilized to estimate the accurate amount of coacervate. Additionally, the amount of coacervate by the centrifugation does not exhibit the difference of patterns before and after drying in a shampoo formulation with different conditioning polymers, and this suggests that the centrifugation is a superior method to compare amount of coacervate in liquid.

Key Words

coacervate, conditioning polymer, shampoo

김정기 Jeong Kee Kim , 임성환 Seong Hwan Lim , 김완기 Wan Gi Kim , 조창희 Changhui Cho , 하재현 Jaehyoun Ha , 서대방 Dae Bang Seo

DOI:

Abstract

Collagen peptide plays a protective role in skin by increasing the activity of antioxidant, acts like an activator of skin regeneration by positive feedback and is used as a potent candidate for cosmetics or functional food. GABA acts at inhibitory synapses in the brain by binding to specific transmembrane receptors of both pre- and postsynaptic neuronal processes in vertebrates, is also involved in the synthesis of melatonin and might exert regulatory effects on sleep and reproductive functions. In this study, we investigated the beneficial effect of a mixture of collagen peptide and GABA (J85091900) on skin and sleep condition in woman experiencing sleep disorder. We found that oral supplement with J85091900 significantly decreased the value of Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index (PSQI), increased sleeping time by 7%, and also improved skin roughness (Ra, Rz, Rt), periorbital wrinkle (Ra, Rt), and skin capacitance in human. These findings indicate that dual strategy with which skin improvement is accomplished using collagen peptide and sleeping well is acquired using GABA could be the novel solution for sleeping beauty by edible cosmetics to improve skin status.

Key Words

collagen peptide, γ-aminobutyric acid (GABA), sleep disorder, sleeping beauty, edible cosmetics

송상훈 Sang-hun Song , 손성길 Seong Kil Son

DOI:

Abstract

A structure of coacervate affects the adsorption of oil and polymer as a conditioning ingredient. This study aims to elucidate a structural characterization of the coacervate of which is a mixture of alkyl cellulose and guar gum. It is well known that the guar gum supports stiffness to the hair when it is adsorbed on the hair. However, addition of guar gum in the formulation composed of alkyl cellulose tremendously increased flexibility in hair. The stable complex system is induced by an electrostatic force between a head group of anionic surfactant and an quarternary ammonium at the alkyl cellulose, and the affinity of alkyl chain to the oil inside the micelle of surfactant by hydrophobic interactions. Taken together, amount of the coacervate increased oil-delivery upon hair in shampooing and these caused a low bending rigidity and calming on the hair swatch.

Key Words

coacervate, conditioning polymers, shampoo, oil delivery

이기복 Gibok Lee , 염아름 Areum Yeom , 김동원 Kim Dong Won , 박창민 Chang-min Park , 정민석 Min-seok Joung , 이기용 Gi Yong Lee , 정철승 Cheol-seung Jeong

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we investigated the biological effects of Alcea rosea L. callus extract for the development of natural cosmetics ingredients. The antioxidant activities of A. rosea L. callus extract was measured through DPPH, ABTS and FRAP assay. As a result, A. rosea L. callus extract were found to have a strong antioxidant ability in a dose dependent manner. In addition, A. rosea L. callus effectively reduced the intracellular oxidative stress induced by AAPH at a concentration of 10 mg/mL. In a tyrosinase activity assay, we found that A. rosea L. callus extract reduced tyrosinase activity by 51% at 10 mg/mL. Based on these results, A. rosea L. callus extract is considered as a promising natural ingredients for cosmetics with antioxidant and whitening functions.

Key Words

callus, Alcea rosea L., antioxidant, cosmetic

배수환 Su-whan Bae

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, I investigated the applicability of fluorescein-derived xanthene dyes to fluorescent pigment and the controllability of the optical properties of manufactured pigments. Eosin Y (D&C Red No.22) and phloxine B (D&C Red No.28) were mainly used as a dye to prepare the pigment. Dyes dissolved in a solvent were poured into a powder dispersed in the solvent, then dried and pulverized to fabricate the pigments. Optical characteristics related with fluorescence of the prepared pigment were measured. The optical properties of pigments were varied depending on the solvent used, content of the dye in the pigment, and the ratio of dyes when more then two dyes were mixed. According to the experiment result, it seems that some of the dyes attached to the powder showed fluorescence while the rest did not contribute to it. From the result of pigment washing experiment to explore the binding (or interaction) strength and characteristics of the powder-dye system constituting the pigment, it seems that there are two or more different interactions existing in the pigment system, one of which is relatively stronger than the solvent-dye interaction.

Key Words

fluorescence, eosin Y, phloxine B, xanthene dye, fluorescent pigment

정용운 Yong-un Jeong , 박영진 Young-jin Park

DOI:

Abstract

This study was carried out to evaluate the antioxidant and whitening activities of Salix gracilistyla extracts. The total polyphenol contents of the extracts were 142.60-151.95 mg GAE/g and total flavonoid contents were 83.43-92.60 mg CE/g. In 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay, the 30% methanol extract showed the highest antioxidant activity (IC50; 19.68 μg/mL). Tyrosinase inhibitory activity was similar in all four solvent extracts, and the highest inhibitory activity (35.18%) was obtained at a concentration of 200 μg/mL of 30% ethanol extract. In addition, methanol extracts did not affect cell viability at all treatment concentrations and were found to significantly reduce the melanin content of B16F10 cells. As a result, it is considered that Salix gracilistyla extracts can be used as an effective cosmetic ingredient having antioxidant and whitening activity.

Key Words

antioxidant, tyrosinase, melanin, Salix gracilistyla, whitening activity

강세원 Se-won Kang , 김은지 Eun Ji Kim , 정유린 Yu-rin Jung , 고해주 Hae Ju Ko

DOI:

Abstract

Studies on seaweed-based materials have been progressing steadily day by day. In this experiment, we checked the anti-oxidant, whitening, and moisturizing activities of fermented extract from a mixture of Undariapinnatifida, Saccharina japonica, and Gloiopeltis furcate. Also, Lactobacillus sakei strains of kimchi were used as the lactic acid bacteria. The physiological status of the combined seaweed extracts was also investigated. The 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2’-azino-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid (ABTS) radical scavenging results showed that the inhibitory effects of the combined seaweed extracts were higher than the positive control. Furthermore, 3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-DOPA) and Mushroom tyrosinase tests were conducted during the whitening efficacy experiment. Hence, it was confirmed that the whitening activity of fermented extracts was greater than the extracts without fermentation. HPLC analysis of fucose (an active ingredient of seaweed) was also performed and a standard method for solvent conditions was newly established. This study suggests that the composite of algae extract has potentials to be used as anti-oxidant and whitening agents in cosmetics.

Key Words

Seaweed extract, Fermentation, Anti-Oxidant, Skin Whitening, Fucose

정용운 Yong Un Jeong , 박영진 Young Jin Park

DOI:

Abstract

This study was carried out to evaluate the possibility of willow plants (the genus Salix) as a cosmetic material. DPPH radical scavenging abilities of 70% ethanol extracts of S. gracilistyla, S. pseudolasiogyne, and S. koriyanagi were significantly increased compared to control. In addition, the treatment of three species of willow plant extracts significantly inhibited the production of nitric oxide (NO) in RAW 264.7 cells, indicating that they had anti-inflammatory activity, and all of them had collagenase inhibitory activity. Among them, the extracts of S. gracilistyla extracts exhibited the highest collagenase inhibitory activity. As a result of analyzing the collagenase inhibitory activity against the solvent fraction of S. gracilistyla extracts, water and butanol fractions showed the highest collagenase inhibitory activity. These results suggested that S. gracilistyla among the willow plants had high collagenase inhibitory activity, and thus it can be utilized for cosmetics as an effective functional cosmetic material in the future.

Key Words

willow plant, the Salix genus, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, collagenase

김준섭 Jun-sub Kim , 정경환 Kyung-hwan Jung

DOI:

Abstract

We synthesized 1, 2-hexanediol galactoside (HD-Gal) from HD using Escherichia coli (E. coli) β-galactosidase (β-gal), in which the reaction is generally called as transgalactosylation (reverse hydrolysis). In this study, we investigated how much HD-Gal and HD had a cytotoxic effect on HaCaT cell, in order to compare HD-Gal with HD in terms of the cytotoxicity of human skin cell. Cell proliferation assay and phase-contrast microscope observation were used for investigating the cytotoxicity. As a result, HD-Gal had not cytotoxic effect on HaCaT cell in the concentration range from 42.2 to 211 mM. In addition, when we observed the cells using microscopy, there was no change in the cell morphology. Meanwhile, when 42.2 mM and 84.4 mM HD were treated on HaCaT cell, we did not observe the cytotoxicity; however, when 168.8 mM and 211 mM HD were on HaCaT cell, HD had a higher cytotoxic effect on HaCaT cell. In addition, when HD was treated on the cells regardless of the concentration of HD, there were obvious changes in cell morphology and cell number. It was expected hopefully that HD-Gal would be applicable as a substitute for HD as a less toxic preservative in views of safety, health, and well-being.

Key Words

1, 2-hexanediol galactoside, human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cell), cytotoxicity, β-galactosidase, cosmetic preservative

이상래 Sang Lae Lee , 송바름 Ba Reum Song , 신혁수 Hyuk Soo Shin , 이윤주 Yun Ju Lee , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

An annual plant, Eclipta prostrata (Linn) is a member of the Asteraceae plant family and inhabited in tropical or subtropical regions of the world. Through many previous researches, E. prostrata has been extensively studied for its hepatoprotective effect, antivenom potential against viper venom, antioxidant, hair-growth, wound-healing efficacy and so on. In this study, for better understanding of the potential of E. prostrata as skin protectant, we conducted the experiments evaluating the antioxidant and antiaging efficacy. To this end, 50% ethanolic extract of E. prostrata and its ethyl acetate fraction were prepared and investigated. For the evaluation of antioxidant capacity of the samples, FSC₅₀ and OSC₅₀ were estimated. As a result, OSC₅₀ of ethyl acetate fraction was 2.7 times superior to OSC₅₀ of L-ascorbic acid, a well known antioxidant agent. Futhermore E. prostrata showed notable reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging effect and protective effect against H₂O₂ in the celluar level as well. Especially, in the ¹O₂ induced hemolysis test, 64 μ g/mL of ethyl acetate fraction showed greater than 6 times increased retardation effect compare to control which means E. prostrata has remarkable antioxidant capacity. To validate the antiaging effect of the samples, we conducted elastase inhibition assay using elastase solution extracted from human skin fibroblasts, Hs68. As a result, 16 μ g/mL of each sample showed 6.8% and 14.0% of elastase inhibition respectively. Finally, antimicrobial activity of E. prostrata was assessed to validate the possibility as alternative preservative. From the result, ethyl acetate fraction showed oustanding antimicrobial activity as of methyl paraben, a well known chemical preservative. In conclusion, these results suggest that E. prostrata can be used as natural skin protectant or preservative as natural ingredient in food or cosmetics industry.

Key Words

Eclipta prostrata, reactive oxygen species, antioxidant, antiaging, antimicrobial