김유아 You Ah Kim , 김동희 Dong Hee Kim , 박채빈 Chae Bin Park , 박태순 Tae Soon Park , 박병준 Byoung Jun Park

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Abstract

To develop a new functional agent for cosmetics, we investigated the anti-aging activities in fibroblasts using sweroside isolated from Nymphoides indica. The anti-aging effect of sweroside was validated in CCD-986sk cells. Results showed that sweroside inhibited expressions of UVB-induced ROS and increased pro-collagen. Furthermore, sweroside had inhibited MMP-1 expression. Taken together, the results suggested that sweroside has considerable potential as a new cosmetics ingredient with an anti-aging effect.

Key Words

Nymphoides indica, sweroside, anti-aging

서초롱 Cho Rong Seo , 하태현 Tae Hyun Ha , 문지영 Ji Young Moon , 김정미 Jeong Mi Kim , 박병권 Byoung Kwon Park , 이지원 Ji Won Lee , 박진오 Jin Oh Park , 신진희 Jin Hee Shin

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Abstract

In cosmetics market, anti-pollution products recently come up with new solution for skin health. Environmental oxidation mechanisms are realized as bio-marker of atmospheric pollution upon skin by environmental pollutant such as ozone, UV rays, particulate matter (PM) as well as cigarette smoke. The exposure of cigarette smoke directly or indirectly causes the oxidation of the stratum corneum skin lipids, resulting in the conversion of squalene to squalene monohydroperoxide and/or generation of malondialdehyde (MDA) as a product of lipid peroxidation. The aim of this study is to see whether new cosmetics product containing red beet has anti-oxidation effect on skin exposed by cigarette smoke. So as to determine oxidative damage to human skin at biochemical level, each unit area of volar forearms was exposed to cigarette smoke through device (3.3 cm, diameter) for fifteen minutes, then measured MDA using standardized TBARS assay kit. Compared to negative control (untreated and unexposed area), the level of MDA was significantly increased at positive control (untreated and exposed area) more than 3.7 times, indicating the pollutant induced-oxidative damage on the skin barrier. Whereas, the pre-applied area with the cosmetics products containing red beet revealed a decrease of 25% compared with positive control. As reports, these data demonstrated that cigarette smoke induce peroxidation of stratum corneum skin lipids. Conclusively, we suggest that anti-pollution effect of the cosmetics product containing red beet is beneficial to prevent the oxidation of skin lipids by atmospheric pollution.

Key Words

anti-pollution, cigarette smoke, red beet, malondialdehyde, cosmetics product

배수정 Soo Jung Bae , 송민현 Min Hyeon Song , 오정영 Jung Young Oh , 배준태 Jun Tae Bae , 김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 이근수 Geun Soo Lee

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Abstract

In this study, cosmetic materials were developed using a new method of making juice through the fermentation of raw natural materials with microorganisms in order to supplement the advantages and disadvantages of an organic solvent extraction method and a microbial fermentation method. The natural products were selected from two colors (red, green) of paprika known to be rich in various colors and vitamins. The microorganisms used for fermentation were fermented by inoculating paprika with lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus plantarum) having sugar-hydrolyzed ability. First, we investigated the changes of physiologically active substances of two kinds of paprika juice and two kinds of fermented paprika juice. Total phenols content and total flavonoids content were higher in the fermented paprika juice than in the paprika juice, and especially in the fermented red paprika juice. Free radical scavenging effect and lipid peroxidation inhibitory effect were also showed an excellent antioxidative effect on paprika fermented juice, among which the effect of red paprika fermentation juice was the highest. The expression of MMP-1 in fermented red paprika juice with high antioxidant activity was inhibited by concentration-dependent expression of MMP-1 mRNA and MMP-1 protein. In the glycation experiments with aging, the anti-glycation effect of fermented paprika juice was highly inhibited by the production of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs), which was closely related to the antioxidant effect. In addition, the activity of senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal), an indicator of cell senescence, was measured using human dermal fibroblast (HDF). The results showed that the cell senescence was inhibited when the cells were treated with fermented paprika juice. In conclusion, fermented paprika juice using lactic acid bacteria showed better antioxidative and anti-aging effects than paprika juice. Among them, fermented red paprika juice has the best antioxidant and anti-aging effect and can be applied as natural new material of antioxidant and anti-aging.

Key Words

Paprika, fermentation, anti-glycation, antioxidant, anti-aging

박정미 Jeong Mi Park , 은소희 So Hee Eun , 고은아 Eun Ah Ko , 한상근 Sang Keun Han , 강학희 Hak Hee Kang , 현승민 Seung Min Hyun

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Abstract

Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) has been widely used in skin care formulations. Due to its remarkable effects on anti-oxidation, collagen biosynthesis and whitening, ascorbic acid is considered as an effectible anti-aging active ingredient. But, the instability problems of ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulation such as oxidation, browning and changes in smell is the difficult issue to be overcome for the application of high concentration of ascorbic acid. We tried to stabilize the ascorbic acid in non-aqueous liquid formulation that contains polyol solvent at first. The non-aqueous system was effectible to reduce oxidation. But, ascorbic acid was crystallized in the non-aqueous formulation at the low temperature below 5℃. We tried to develop way to stabilize the ascorbic acid in aqueous solutions to solve the crystallizing problem. In this study, we search the optimal ratio of antioxidant combination, such as zinc sulfate, glutathione and curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract. Formulations were stored at - 16℃, 5℃, 25℃, 40℃, 50℃ and cycle(5 - 40℃) (in incubator) for a period of eight weeks to investigate their stability. In the stability analysis, the test parameters consisted of color, scent, phase separation and sedimentation. Ascorbic acid stability was checked by HPLC analysis.

Key Words

ascorbic acid, antioxidant, stability

손성길 Seong Kil Son , 최원경 Wonkyung Choi , 임병택 Byung Tack Lim , 송상훈 Sang-hun Song , 강내규 Nae Kyu Kang

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Abstract

Chemically damaged hair is vulnerable to external stimuli in daily life due to the weakened physical properties of the hair strand itself. The purpose of this work was to determine whether chemical conjugation between hair keratin proteins restores tensile strength and thus results inpreventing further deterioration under repeated combing. A model damaged hair tress was produced by a typical perm-process. Then, it was internally crosslinked by the bifunctional crosslinker (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (APTES), via both silane coupling and carbodiimide chemistry. Physical properties, including tensile strength, Young’s modulus, and plateau stress, were measured to verify the effect of internal crosslinking, and the existence of crosslinking was verified by Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy. The degrees of hair breakage and split ends were evaluated by repeated combing-drying tests. Physical properties of chemically damaged hair were restored by internal crosslinking. Successful crosslinking of APTES via both silane coupling and carbodiimide chemistry was verified by FT-IR spectra. Prevention of breakage and split ends after repeated combing with heat was observed. Human hair can be weakened by chemical damage including perm-processing, so restoring such properties is a major issue in the hair care industry. This work shows that internal crosslinking of damaged hair via chemical conjugation would be a potent method to restore the healthy hair.

Key Words

silane coupling and carbodiimide chemistry, hair treatment, damaged hair, restoration, internal crosslinking

손성길 Seong Kil Son , 김시원 See Won Kim , 박무경 Moo Kyung Park , 송상훈 Sang-hun Song , 박수진 Su Jin Park , 황성록 Seong-lok Hwang , 이상민 Sang Min Lee

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Abstract

The structure of the coacervate can dramatically influence deposition on the hair. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of coacervate with a relatively fine and uniform structure on the surface properties of hair and its influence on hair damage. In this study, coacervates of different sizes were explored in 10% shampoo solutions; one solution contained coacervates with non-uniform sizes (10 - 300 μm average), and the other solution formed a coacervate with a fine and uniform (1 - 3 μm) structure. To study the effect of shampoo on the physical properties of hair and damage to the hair, the hair breakage characteristics, color changes, friction properties, lipid contents and hair surface were examined after using two different types of shampoo. The results clearly show that the relatively fine and uniformly sized coacervate was evenly deposited over the surface of the hair. As a result, the coacervate system can substantially influence the surface properties of the hair such as hair friction, breakage characteristics, and color. The frictional force was dramatically reduced. The use of a fine and uniformly sized coacervate can notably improve hair surface properties. Consequently, hair breakage decreased, and the effect of the coacervate on hair damage was remarkably high.

Key Words

hair treatment, polymers, shampoo, fine coacervate, hair damage

염현숙 Hyun Sook Yeom , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee , 현주미 Ju Mi Hyun

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative activities and cell protective effects of the constituents isolated from S. aqueum branches. DPPH and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activities were screened for the ethanol extract and solvent fractions, ethyl acetate (EtOAc) and butanol (BuOH) fractions showed potent activities. When HaCaT cells were treated with H₂O₂, the ethanol extract and EtOAc fractions (20 μ g/mL) protected the cells against oxidative damage. Two constituents were isolated from the EtOAc fraction of S. aqueum branches; pinocembrin (1), desmethoxymatteucinol (2). The chemical structures of the isolated compounds were elucidated based on the spectroscopic data including 1H and ¹³C NMR spectra, as well as comparison of the data to the literature values. Anti-oxidative activities and cell protective effects were studied for the isolated compounds. For the anti-oxidative activities, all of the compounds 1 and 2 showed DPPH and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activities. Also, from the cell protective effect test, the compounds 1 and 2 protected the cell against oxidative stress by H₂O₂. Based on these results, S. aqueum branches extract could be potentially applicable as anti-oxidant ingredients in cosmetic industries.

Key Words

S. Aqueum, anti-oxidation, cell protective effect, isolation, flavonoid

최고운 Go Woon Choi , 정현진 Hyun Jin Jeong , 석진경 Jin Kyung Seok , 백지훈 Ji Hwoon Baek , 김영미 Young Mi Kim , 부용출 Yong Chool Boo

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Abstract

Skin aging degree can be objectively measured using the instrumental analysis. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the anti-aging effects of a cream containing 8000 PPM of resveratryl triacetate (RTA) in the human skin test. Twenty female subjects were given test products twice a day for 8 weeks on the face, and wrinkles, sagging, elasticity, dermis denseness, moisture and brightness were measured every 4 weeks by instrument analysis. After 4 and 8 week-use of the test product, total wrinkle area decreased (5.12%, 4.86%), total wrinkle volume decreased (10.53%, 8.41%), sagging decreased (4.69%, 5.91%), elasticity increased (2.84%, 3.98%), dermis denseness increased (15.65%, 20.80%), water content increased (5.83%, 7.37%), lightness (L^* value) increased (0.79%, 1.07%), and individual typology angle (ITA^o) increased (5.43%, 4.95%)compared with the baseline values before treatments, and all these changes were statistically significant (p < 0.05). No adverse skin reactions were observed in all participants during the study period. This study supports the anti-aging effects of the test product.

Key Words

resveratrol, resveratryl triacetate, anti-aging effect, human skin, cream

최동준 Dong Jun Choi , 조욱민 Uk Min Cho , 최다희 Da Hee Choi , 황형서 Hyung Seo Hwang

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Abstract

Genistein is one of the representative isoflavone compounds isolated from soybeans and has been studied very well for its anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activity through previous studies. However, although genistein exhibits high solubility in organic solvents, it shows low bioavaility due to the low water solubility. In this study, we compared directly the functional difference between genistein and genistein cyclodextrin complex which has the improved water solubility and stability by cell based assay. Cell cytotoxicity experiment were carried out on RAW264.7 with CCK-8 assay and cytotoxicity was appeared from 10 μ g/mL, thereby maximum concentration was set to 10 μ g/mL in all condition. We discovered that genistein CD complex suppressed NO production and iNOS expression as concentration dependent manner in the condition of LPS rather than genistein. Also, we could understand that genistein CD complex was able to down-regulate mRNA expression of anti-inflammatory cytokines such as IL1-α, IL1-β, IL-6, and TNF-α as concentration dependent manner in the presence of LPS. In addition, we verified that genistein CD complex increased TEER of HaCaT human keratinocyte cells as concentration dependent pattern and stimulated cell division and migration rather than genistein in cell migration assay. Thus, it is expected that it can be used as an effective cosmetic raw material for improving atopic dermatitis or skin barrier if clinical studies on skin regeneration and skin barrier of the genistein CD complex are carried out.

Key Words

genistein cyclodextrin complex, isoflavone, anti-inflammatory effects, cell migration, skin barrier

정상욱 Jong Ho Park , 이시은 Sang Uk Chung , 최선영 Si Eun Lee , 문권기 Sun Young Choi , 임소라 Kwon Ki Moon , 김해경 Sora Lim , 박종호 Hae Kyoung Kim

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Abstract

Blue light is the highest energy wavelengths in the visible light region and induces skin aging and active oxygen. Studies on harmful mechanism of skin are under way. Research on blue light blocking materials in cosmetics and formulation studies are in the early stage, and the test methods related to blue light blocking measurement are not established. The blue light blocking efficacy was established by referring to the test method of the sunscreen in vitro test(COLIPA guideline, ISO 24443, FDA Final Rule on Sunscreen Testing and Labeling). The blue light blocking effect was evaluated for 17 kinds out of 27 kinds of sunscreen raw materials suggested in KFDA guideline. The Effect was 14.97% for zinc oxide and 16.32% for bishexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, 35.47% for methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, and 65.96% for titanium dioxide. In addition, the effect of micro-titanium dioxide was twice as high as that of the nano-titanium dioxide. The results suggested that the light blocking effect test method can be used to search for blue light blocking materials and study cosmetic formulations.

Key Words

blue light, visible light, sunscreen, titanium dioxide, cosmetic

문은정 Eunjung Moon , 전준명 Junmyeong Jeon , 이가희 Gahee Lee , 백민영 Minyoung Baik , 이대우 Dae Woo Lee

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Abstract

In this study, we conducted research to find anti-wrinkle skin care ingredients from natural sources via the measurement of procollagen type 1 levels in the medium of normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) and found that a Nelumbo nucifera leave extract (NLE) was as the best effective ingredient. By the high performance liquid chromatography analysis, we confirmed isoquercitrin was one of the main compounds of NLE. Moreover, it also increased the procollagen type 1 production without cytotoxicity of NHDF. NLE and isoquercitrin exerted free radical scavenging activity. Especially, isoquercitrin exhibited strong intracellular antioxidant capacity in human skin-derived cells, HaCaT and NHDF. Finally, we performed clinical test for the inhibitory effect of NLE on skin wrinkle formation. A randomized study was conducted in 22 healthy female volunteers, aged between 30 and 65 yrs, with moderate to moderately severe facial wrinkles. Volunteer applied a 1.7% NLE cream (isoquercitrin 51 ppm) and a control cream at each facial side (left/right) twice daily for 8 weeks. The 1.7% NLE cream improved skin roughness through reducing the wrinkle of the craw’s feet significantly without any skin side effect. Our results demonstrate that NLE and isoquercitrin can increase the collagen production and exert antioxidant activity. Therefore, we expect that the new non-toxic herbal extract, isoquercitrin-containing NLE will be interesting natural ingredient of cosmetics with anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Key Words

Isoquercitrin, anti-oxidant, anti-wrinkle, procollagen type 1, Nelumbo nucifera leaf extract

김나리 Na Ri Kim , 심종원 Jongwon Shim

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Abstract

In this study, we formulated oil-in-water emulsion composition for skin care products containing jadeite powder which is well known as far-infrared radiating material. Jadeite powder could sustain stable dispersion in aqueous solvents over a month and this helped mixing it high content in oil-in-water emulsion formulation. To identify the effect of jadeite as a far-infrared radiator materials relating to the skin surface temperature change, we applied emulsion formulation containing 2 weight percent jadeite powder onto facial skin surface and blank formulation together and analyzed surface temperature with thermo-vision. Our results showed that the temperature difference between jadeite powder formulation applied region and blank formulation reached to 1.5 ~ 2.0 degree Celsius. We also performed same test with nephrite powder and titanium dioxide powder but only jadeite powder containing formulation showed significant skin temperature change. To elucidate main cause of heat energy transfer, we tested heat radiation, energy dispersive spectrometer analysis and measured far infrared radiance emissivity, diffuse reflectance spectra and water evaporation rate. We found out jadeite powder could retard water evaporation effectively from the skin surface and resist temperature drop down. This is because of the innate chemical composition and surface structure of jadeite, which can bind with water molecules to form hydrogen bonds. It is concluded that we can develop novel skin care products for moisturizing and thermos with jadeite powder.

Key Words

jadeite, nephrite, far-infrared, skin temperature, emulsion