김소희 So-hee Kim , 윤유나 Yuna Yun , 안수선 Susun An

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Abstract

In this study, 1,2-hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, and glyceryl caprylate known as skin conditioning agents with antimicrobial activity in cosmetics were investigated for their antimicrobial activity against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria when combining them with various ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Seven kinds of substances expected to improve the antibacterial activity in formulations were selected to blend with these three compounds.; 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, niacinamide, EDTA-2Na, and ethanol. The checkerboard assay was conducted to confirm the antibacterial synergy of these seven substances and the three skin conditioning agents. Consequently, ethanol and EDTA-2Na were detected as the significant materials with synergistic effect as well as ethanol showed antibacterial synergy with all the three compounds. When seven of selected materials were mixed with glyceryl caprylate, there were synergistic or additive activity against S. aureus, gram-positive bacteria and it was suggested that the combination with 1,2-hexanediol and glyceryl caprylate was useful to control both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria when there were four kinds of polyols. This study is meaningful in that it confirmed the antibacterial synergy of the skin conditioning agents with antimicrobial activity and the main raw materials frequently used in cosmetics, thereby contributing to prediction of the antibacterial activity of the skin conditioning agents in cosmetic formulations.

Key Words

1,2-hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, glyceryl caprylate, synergistic antibacterial activity, skin conditioning agents

이현상 Hyun Sang Lee , 석지현 Ji Hyun Seok , Cheung Wai Ting , 김윤정 Yun Jeong Kim

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Abstract

In order to find new functional materials for the cosmetics application, we investigated the anti-oxidant and anti-melanogenic properties of Gentiana scabra extracts (GSE), which were prepared by the various extraction methods. Results showed that GSE had high DPPH radical scavenging activity in a dose-dependent manner. Also, GSE inhibited the prodution of melanin in B16F10 melanoma cell as well as tyrosinase activity. We also found that GSE inhibited mRNA expression of tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1 and 2. In conclusion we suggest that GSE is applicable to cosmetics as a potential ingredient for their anti-oxidant and whitening effects.

Key Words

Gentiana scabra extract, anti-oxidant, whitening, tyrosinase, melanin

유화선 Hwa Sun Ryu , 정지연 Jiyeon Jeong , 전원옥 Weon-ok Jeon , 이춘몽 Chun Mong Lee , 이정노 Jung-no Lee , 박성민 Sung-min Park

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Abstract

Skin-aging is accelerated by the increased expression of MMP-1 caused by the increased skin temperature induced by IR/visible light as well as UV. Thus, the control of skin temperature is important to inhibit heat-induced aging. Many studies have been conducted to lower the skin temperature through the controlling transient receptor potential melastatin 8 channel (TRPM8), which is known as the cold and menthol receptor 1 (CMR1) and is activated at temperature below 25 ℃. In this study, we first investigated the effect of Ganoderma lucidum extract (GLE) on the TRPM8 expression. Results showed that GLE, hexane (Hex) fractions and water fractions increased the TRPM8 expression in a dose dependent manner. Active compound in Hex fractions were separated by chromatography and analyzed by ¹H and ¹³C NMR spectroscopy. The isolated compounds were identified as ergosterol and it also significantly increased the TRPM8 expression. Taken together, these results strongly suggest that G. lucidum extract and ergosterol have the potential as a new cooling ingredient in the cosmetics.

Key Words

Ganoderma lucidum extract, ergosterol, keratinocyte, cold and menthol receptor, TRPM8

정문희 Mun-hee Jung , 신성규 Sung Gyu Shin , 임준우 Jun Woo Lim , 한사라 Sa Ra Han , 김희진 Hee-jin Kim , 정재현 Jae Hyun Jeong

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Abstract

In this study, sequential cross-linked collagen gels were successfully prepared with collagen, which is biomaterial, and acrylamide (AAm), which is a synthetic monomer. The elastic moduli (E) of cross-linked collagen gels were increased from 1.5 to 3.0 kPa by varying of AAm concentrations. In addition, human dermal fibroblasts were encapsulated into the porous pores introduced into the gels, and cell growth and behavior were investigated. Increasing E of the gels led to decreases in cell growth rate, while the cellular glycosaminoglycan (GAG) production level was elevated. Overall, the growth and cellular activity of skin cells were influenced by the extracellular matrix properties of the collagen gels. In conclusion, these results will be highly useful for designing reconstructive skins and various tissue engineering researches.

Key Words

collagen gel, sequential cross-linking, hydrogel, elastic modulus

조완구 Wan Goo Cho , 김경아 Kyung Ah Kim , 장선일 Seon Il Jang , 조병옥 Byoung Ok Cho

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Abstract

Oil/water (O/W) nanoemulsions are effective vehicles to change the permeability of the skin. In this study, we focused on the preparation and characterization of nanoemulsion which serve as colloidal carriers for the dermal application of ceramide IIIB (CIIIB) and stratum corneum (SC) lipids such as cholesterol, and palmitic acid. In order to optimize the nanoemulsions, emulsification process conditions were conducted with regard to droplet size, nanoemulsion stability, and solubility of CIIIB. A decrease in droplet size was observed through emulsification temperature of 80 ℃ and phase inversion composition (PIC) method. CIIIB has low solubility in oil and water. When the concentration of CIIIB was increased, the droplet size of nanoemulsion was increased. When Lipoid S75-3 was added to the oil phase, the solubility of CIIIB increased, indicating some interactions shown in DSC measurements. CIIIB and SC lipids could be successfully incorporated in nanoemulsions without crystallization or physical instability. In conclusion, a stable nanoemulsion containing the SC lipids could be effective as an efficient moisturizing system for skin.

Key Words

ceramides, stratum corneum lipid, nanoemulsion, PIC, HLB

이경은 Kyung Eun Lee , 손상혁 Sang Hyeok Son , 강상구 Sang Gu Kang

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Abstract

The coffee silver skin is a part of coffee beans. We report that the coffee sliver skin extracts exhibited cosmetic properties of antioxidant, anti-winkle and whitening effects. The ethanol extracts of silver skin showed free radical scavenging activity up to 92.26% in 50 μg/mL, especially against DPPH radical and ABTS radical cation. The silver skin extracts showed inhibitory effects for tyrosinase activity and DOPA oxidation in a dose-dependent manner, suggesting the extracts retain for the whitening property in cosmetics. The coffee silver skin extracts effectively inhibited the elastase and collagenase. Cytotoxicity of the coffee silver skin extracts was measured by the colorimetric MTS assay. The viability of the human keratinocytes (HaCaT) treated with the coffee silver skin extracts was same as that of untreated cells, indicating the extracts are safe to human cells. Here, we suggest that the silver skin extracts of coffee bean could be a potential natural substance for anti-winkle, whitening, antioxidant properties for cosmetics.

Key Words

coffee silver skin, anti-oxidant, whitening effect, anti-wrinkle, cell viability

한정희 Jeung Hi Han , 송지훈 Ji Hoon Song , 김영은 Young Eun Kim , 이유희 Yu Hee Lee , 이정민 Jung Min Lee , 이지언 Ji Ean Lee

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated the anti-aging effect of Rosa damascena extract containing low molecular glycoprotein (RELG) converted from the high molecular glycoprotein by bioconversion. Free radical scavenging activities were performed by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. Antioxidant activities (IC50) of RELG and the positive control ascorbic acid were 22.6 μg/mL and 21.1 μg/mL, respectively. For skin cells, 15 μg/mL RELG showed 28% antioxidant activity by inhibiting the production of active oxygen species induced by ultraviolet ray and hydrogen peroxide. 15 μg/mL RELG prevented 10% the cell death caused by stress in human hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HDPC) and reduced 90% the production of active oxygen species. In addition, the glycoprotein showed not only anti-wrinkle effect but also moisturizing effect by 48% inhibition of matrix metallo proteinase-1 (MMP-1) production by ultraviolet stress and 10 μg/mL RELG enhanced 10% neutral lipid synthesis with 44% aquaporin 3 (AQP3) expression, which is moisture factor. In conclusion, the RELG can be used as an anti-aging cosmetic material.

Key Words

Rosa damascena, anti-oxidation, moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging

고미옥 Mi-ok Ko , 강희주 Hee-joo Kang , 황준호 Joon-ho Hwang , 양경월 Kyong-wol Yang

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Abstract

Propionibacterium acnes, a major pathogens bacterium of acne, is one of the microflora associated with the inflammation. In this study, the antibacterial effects of 70% ethanol extracts from the 61 natural plants in Jeju against P. acnes were investigated using the disc diffusion method. The 45 natural plant extracts showed antibacterial effects and the 16 natural plants extracts didn’t show antibacterial effects. The Phyllanthus urinaria L. (stem and leaves) extract showed thr highest antimicrobial activity with 18.96 ± 0.69 mm clear zone of the growth of P. acnes, followed by Angelica gigas Nakai (roots), Gynostemma pentaphyllum (Thunb.) Makino, Angelica gigas Nakai (stem and leaves), Isodon inflexus (Thunb.) Kudo, camellia sinensis L. (flowers), Rosmarinus officinalis, etc. These results suggest that the natural plant in Jeju can be used as functional cosmetic biomaterials or antimicrobial agents against P. acnes.

Key Words

Propionibacterium acnes, antibacterial effect, disc diffusion test, Jeju natural plants, cosmetic

나혜원 Hye-won Na , 이영란 Yeongran Lee , 박준성 Jun Seong Park , 이태룡 Tae Ryoung Lee , 김형준 Hyoung-june Kim

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Abstract

Green tea (Camellia sinensis L.) has been widely explored for its medicinal applications. However, most of the studies had targeted the green tea leaf, while other parts remained unexplored. In this study, protective effect of green tea root extract on Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEKs) against the damage induced by an external stimulant (PM2.5) was confirmed. Thirty-year-old green tea root samples were collected from Amorepacific’s Dolsongi tea field and green tea root extract was prepared with 70% ethanol. Total crude saponin content in green tea root extract was 54%, which is much higher than that in ginseng extract. Our results suggest that green tea root extract can be used as a natural surfactant in cosmetics. For evaluating its protective effect against the damage induced by PM2.5, IL-36G was used as a biomarker. IL-36G mRNA expression level increased remarkable upon PM2.5 treatment in NHEKs. Moreover, IL-36G was recently reported to be expressed in psoriasis lesions. Results showed significant decrease of IL-36G expression by treatment of green tea root extract. In conclusion, thirty-year-old green tea root extract can be used as a natural surfactant with a high saponin content and may have protective effect against the damage induced by PM2.5.

Key Words

green tea root, natural surfactant, PM2.5, skin care

최현정 Hyunjung Choi , 박녹현 Nokhyun Park , 김지현 Jihyun Kim , 조동형 Dong-hyung Cho , 이태룡 Tae Ryong Lee , 김형준 Hyoung-june Kim

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Abstract

The primary cilium protrudes from the cell body like a bio-antenna that has many receptors, channels and signaling molecules to sense and response to external stimuli. The external environment such as ultraviolet irradiation, temperature, humidity, gravity and shear stress always influences skin. Skin responds to external stimuli and differentiates by making melanin, collagen and horny layer. Ciliogenesis participates in developmental processes of skin, such as keratinocyte differentiation and hair formation. And it was reported that skin pigmentation was inhibited when ciliogenesis was induced by sonic hedgehog-smoothened-GLI2 signaling. When skin is exposed to ultraviolet irradiation, alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormones (α-MSH) increase melanin synthesis through activation of the cAMP pathway in melanocytes. We observed that α-MSH and cAMP production inducers inhibited ciliogenesis of melanocytes. Therefore, we thought that regulation of ciliogenesis is potential candidate target for the development of agents to treat undesirable hyperpigmentation of skin. As a result, we found out that an ethanol extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra (EGG) root and 3,4,5-trimethoxy cinnamate thymol ester (TCTE, Melasolv) significantly inhibit melanin synthesis of normal human melanocyte by inducing primary cilium formation. This study proposed new theory to regulate skin pigmentation and cosmetic components for skin whitening.

Key Words

Primary cilia, melanogenesis, Smo-GLI2 signaling, skin whitening

전승현 Seung-hyun Jun , 염준석 Jun-seok Yeom , 안병준 Byung Jun Ahn , 박선규 Sun Gyoo Park , 이천구 Cheon Koo Lee , 이설훈 Seol-hoon Lee , 강내규 Nae-gyu Kang

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Abstract

The objective of this article is to provide analytical tools for the scattering of stratum corneum (SC) and to check whether the optical clearing agents (OCAs) could be applied in optics affecting the scattering reduction. Dark field images of tape striped corneocyte separates scattered light of the SC from others in vitro. Several optical clearing agents were tested to reduce the scattering. Physical properties of SC such as water contents, keratin configuration and volume after OCAs treatment were investigated by FT-IR and 3D laser microscope. Several reducing sugars, monomeric sugars, sugar alcohol, and hyaluronic acid, which were used as humectants in cosmetic field, also reduced scattering. However, unlike dehydration in optics, water penetrated into the keratin in SC and scattering was decreased at low concentration of OCAs. In that condition, the volume of corneocyte was increased and stiffness seemed to decrease. The analyzing of tape-stripped SC, showed the change of optical and physical properties of corneocyte by optical clearing agents. The hydration of SC layer by optical clearing agents decreased the scattering of corneocyte and thus improved the skin appearance and moisturizing effect, which are important benefits in the cosmetic field and could provide new possibility to develop skin care study targeting at SC.

Key Words

skin scattering, optical clearing, skin hydration, keratin, stratum corneum

전승현 Seung-hyun Jun , 김서연 Seo Yeon Kim , 박선규 Sun Gyoo Park , 이천구 Cheon Koo Lee , 이설훈 Seol-hoon Lee , 강내규 Nae-gyu Kang

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Abstract

In this study, water-dispersed biocellulose nanofibers (TC) were prepared via an oxidation reaction using 2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-1-piperidine-N-oxy radical (TEMPO) as a catalyst. The TC retained their unique structure in water as well as in emulsion. TC adhered to the skin surface while maintaining nanofibrous structures, providing inherent functions of biocellulose, such as high tensile strength and high water-holding capacity. When gelatin gels as model skin were coated with TC, the hardness representing the elasticity was increased by 20% compared to untreated gelatin gel because TC could tightly hold the gelatin structure. When porcine skin was treated with TC and TC-contained O/W emulsion, the initial water contact angles of TC were lower than other materials, and dramatically decreased over time as water penetrated the fibrous structure of the TC film. Characterization of TC on the skin surface offered insight into the function of nanofibers on the skin, which is important for their applications with respect to fiber-cosmetics.

Key Words

bacterial cellulose, nanofibers, surface modification, water-dispersion, water adsorption

최선국 Seon-guk Choi , 김미선 Mi-sun Kim , 김진현 Jin-hyun Kim , 박선규 Sun Gyoo Park , 이천구 Cheon Koo Lee , 강내규 Nae-gyu Kang

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Abstract

The epidermis which is stratified by epithelial tissue renewal based on keratinocyte differentiation protects the organism from various environmental insults by forming a physical barrier. Autophagy is a mechanism which mediates lysosomal delivery and degradation of protein aggregates, damaged organelles and intracellular microorganisms. Recent reports have shown that autophagy has critical roles for proper terminal differentiation to stratum corneum via removing metabolic organelles and nuclei. However, whether increasing autophagy can activate epidermal differentiation is unknown. Here, we screened a library of natural single compounds and discovered that betaine specifically increased the LC3 positive cytosolic punctate vesicles and LC3-I to LC3-II conversion in HaCaT human keratinocyte cell line, indicating increased autophagy flux. mTOR pathway, which negatively regulates autophagy, was not affected by betaine treatment, suggesting betaine-induced autophagy through an mTOR-independent pathway. Betaine-induced autophagy was also observed in primary human keratinocyte and skin equivalent. Furthermore, epidermal thickness was increased in skin equivalent under betaine treatment. Overall, our finding suggests that betaine as a novel regulator of autophagy may induce epidermal turnover and improve the skin barrier abnormality of the aged epidermis.

Key Words

betaine, autophagy, keratinocyte, mTOR, cosmetics