신서연 Seo Yeon Shin , 김규원 Gue Won Kim , 강세원 Se Won Kang , 조홍석 Hong Suk Cho , 김은지 Eun Ji Kim , 박경목 Kyung Mok Park

DOI:

Abstract

Cimicifuge dahurica (C. dahurica), Coptis chinensis (C. chinensis) and Phellodendri amurense (P. amurense) extracts has an detoxification effect and Magnol obovata bark (M. obovata) extracts has an antibacterial effect in oriental medicine. This study investigated the possibility of the extract mixture as a functional cosmetic ingredient by mixing C. dahurica, C. chinensis, P. amurense and M. obovata extracts. MTT assay was carried out for toxicity test and DPPH/ABTS experiments for antioxidant effects of the extract mixture. Results show that the extract mixture was safer and antioxidant effects in a dose-dependent manner than single extract of the mixture. The mixture effectively inhibited NO (nitric oxide) production, which indicate good efficacy for anti-inflammation. The mixture also protected UVB-induced cell damage and increased type 1 pro-collagen synthesis in fibroblast. In addition, it's treatment inhibited the melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity by lowering expression of MITF, tyrosinase and TRPs in B16F10 melanoma cell. These results suggest that medicinal herbal extract mixture may be useful as a functional ingredient for anti-aging and skin whitening cosmetic formula.

Key Words

medicinal herbs, anti-oxidation, anti-aging, anti-melanogenesis, cosmetic ingredient

황윤균 Yoon Kyun Hwang , 정민국 Min Kuk Jeong , 조성연 Sung Yeon Cho , 박성일 Sung Il Park , 조은철 Eun Chul Cho

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Abstract

An anti-aging compound ethyl (4-(2,3-dihydro-1H-indene-5-carboxyamido) benzoate) rapidly crystallizes in emulsion systems, and a flavonoid 3,5,7-trihydroxy-4’-methoxy-8-prenylflavone bearing a whitening function causes coloration of cosmetic compounds when mixed with metal oxides. In this study, an electrospray method was used to encapsulate water-insoluble bioactive compounds in polymeric microparticles. Poly (methyl methacrylate) and polycaprolactone were used to encapsulate ethyl (4-(2,3-dihydro-1H-indene-5-carboxyamido) benzoate) and 3,5,7-trihydroxy- 4’-methoxy-8-prenylflavone, respectively. It was found that polymer concentration, the structure of electrospray nozzle, and compatibility between polymers and bioactive compounds were important factors in the preparation of the particles. Polycaprolactone particles encapsulating 3,5,7-trihydroxy-4’-methoxy-8-prenylflavone was effective in preventing coloration of a cosmetic compound when mixed with metal oxides.

Key Words

electrospray, polymer microparticles, water-insoluble bioactive compounds, prevention of coloration

이진영 Jin-young Lee , 유단희 Dan-hee Yoo , 주다혜 Da Hye Joo , 김소라 So-ra Kim , 조희선 Hui-seon Jo , 주성현 Sung-hyun Joo , 채정우 Jung-woo Chae

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Abstract

This study investigated the anti-inflammatory activities and cell viability of Amelanchier asiatica (A. asiatica) 70% ethanol extracts against RAW 264.7 cells induced by lipopolysaccharide (LPS). Cell toxicity test on macrophage cells (RAW 264.7) was performed by 3-[4,5-dimethyl-thiazol-2-yl]-2, 5-diphenyl-tetrazoliumbromide (MTT) assay and results showed 96% cell viability at 1,000 μg/mL concentration. Anti-inflammatory activity was examined via the inhibitory tests on the production of LPS induced NO in RAW 264.7 cells by Griess assay. The result showed that the extract inhibited NO production in concentration dependent manner. The iNOS and COX-2 protein expression inhibitory effects were confirmed by western blot and by reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR). From the former they were decreased by 84.3%, 56.2% at 500 μg/mL concentration, respectively, and from the latter decreased by 89.8%, 84.9% at 500 μg/mL, respectively. In conclusion, this study showed the anti-inflammatory effects of A. asiatica extracts. Thus, this could be applied to an anti-inflammatory agent.

Key Words

Amelanchier asiatica, iNOS, COX-2, NO, anti-inflammatory

강성수 Sungsoo Kang , 김현정 Hyeon Jeong Kim , 오세웅 Se Woong Oh , 박상욱 Sang Wook Park , 김경섭 Kyung Seob Kim

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Abstract

Up to now, better convenience and portability were important factors in the development of the cosmetics and achieved by immersing low viscosity makeup water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion into the impregnation material. Conventionally, polyurethane sponges having porous network structures and hard textures have been dominantly used. It has an advantage of easy to manufacture because of its good impregnation property due to its structural characteristics. However, it releases emulsion too much at first use, and shows unexpected dramatic decline during the period of usage. In this study, we studied on makeup W/O emulsion with various features and developed the new foaming sponge, which showed excellent formability and proper absorption and discharge ability of cosmetic composition through the combination of natural rubber (NR) and styrene butadiene rubber (SBR). This impregnation material is characterized by the softness of elasticity like a rubber, high elongation and uniform output. We confirmed that this material can be used to develop makeup products using various oils depending on polarity and controlling the viscosity of the makeup W/O emulsion. Thus, it is concluded that these results provide valuable information in developing new cosmetics impregnation materials.

Key Words

sponge, polyurethane, natural rubber, styrene butadiene rubber, W/O emulsion, impregnation

강지미 Ji Mi Kang , 김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

Melanin synthesis inhibition activities were investigated for the extracts prepared from the leaves of Carpinus turczaninowii (C. turczaninowii) by using B16F10 melanoma cells. As a result, the ethanol extract (100 μg/mL) showed 72.2% inhibition activities without cell toxicities in MTT assays. For the solvent fractions (n-hexane, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, water), the most potent activities were observed at the ethyl acetate fraction. To isolate the active constituents, the ethyl acetate fraction was further purified to afford four compounds; ethyl gallate (1), quercetin rhamnose (2), kaempferol rhamnose (3) and quercetin galloylrhamnose (4). The identification of the isolates was made by spectroscopic data including NMR spectra, and all of the compounds 1-4 were isolated for the first time from the leaves of C. turczaninowii. Anti-melanogenesis activities were studied for the isolates 1-4, and the compound 4 was determined to decrease the melanin synthesis dose-dependently without causing cell toxicities. ELISA measurement indicated that the isolate 4 decreased the contents of cell tyrosinase, a critical enzyme in melanogenesis. Based on these results, the extracts of C. turczaninowii were found to be applicable as whitening ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

Key Words

Carpinus turczaninowii, anti-melanogenesis, B16 melanoma cells, constituents

강희철 Hee Cheol Kang , 주광식 Kwang Sik Joo , 주세진 Se Jin Joo , 하영애 Young Ae Ha , 김학수 Hack Soo Kim , 차미연 Mi Yeon Cha

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Abstract

EtOAc fractions of Magnolia obovata (M. obovata) Bark extracts were studied for the potential ingredient as a safe and effective whitening cosmetic material. The concentration of active substances honokiol was determined by HPLC. In vitro, the fractions reduced the extracellular and intracellular melanin contents in B16F10 cells in dose dependently and inhibited extracellular melanin secretion (IC₅₀ = 11.05 μg/mL). The 12.5 μg/mL treatment of maximum concentration effectively inhibited up to about 60% to the amount of extracullular melanin. Also, the 12.5 μg/mL treatment of maximum concentration effectively inhibited up to about 59% to the amount of intracullular melanin (IC₅₀ = 10.85 μg/mL). The IC₅₀ value of α-arbutin used as a positive control was 59.99 μg/mL. So, EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts showed whitening effect when compared with the non-treatment group. In case of in vivo study, Cosmetic cream with EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts was approved by Ethics committee of KDRI (IRB number: KDRI-IRB-1537). As a result in progress for skin sensitization as well as assessment of skin irritation through repeated patch test, skin allergens was identified as non sensitizing agents. Also, cosmetic cream with EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts showed significant topical whitening effect and reliable skin safety when compared with the non-treatment group. In conclusion, EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts may be a useful cosmetic ingredient for effective skin whitening.

Key Words

whitening, Magnolia obovata bark, cosmetic agents, skin safety

전아림 Ah Lim Jeon , 김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated whitening and anti-inflammatory constituents from a watermelon (Citrullus lanatus, C. lanatus) vines (leaves and stems). As anti-melanogenesis and anti-inflammatory activities were screened for the ethanol extract and solvent fractions, n-hexane (n-Hex) and ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fractions showed the most potent activities. Three constituents were isolated from the n-Hex and EtOAc fractions of C. lanatus; α-linolenic acid (1), sigmast-7-en-O-β-D-glucopyranoside (2), 1-feruloyl-β-D-glucopyrinoside (3). The chemical structures of the isolated compounds were elucidated based on the spectroscopic data including ¹H and ¹³C NMR spectra, as well as comparison of the data to the literature values. Whitening and anti-inflammatory effects were studied for the isolated compounds. Upon the anti-melanogenesis tests using α-MSH stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells, the compounds 1 and 3 inhibited the cellular melanogenesis and intracellular tyrosinase activities effectively. For the anti-inflammation tests using lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced RAW 264.7 cells, the isolates 1 and 3 were determined to decrease the production of nitric oxide (NO) and pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-6). Based on these results, C. lanatus vines extract could be potentially applicable as whitening and anti-inflammatory ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

Key Words

Citrullus lanatus, whitening, anti-inflammation, constituents

송상훈 Sang Hoon Song , 홍경우 Kyong Woo Hong , 한종섭 Jong Seob Han , 김경섭 Kyong Seob Kim , 박선규 Sun Gyoo Park

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Abstract

The key quality attributes of the pressed powder, one of base makeup products, are skin-affinity and spreadability. In general, there was a limit to meet skin-affinity and spreadability simultaneously, which are opposite attributes each other. In this study, air jet mill process was tried to satisfy two main properties. Skin-affinity was improved by a wet coating of sericite with a mixture of lauroyl lysine (LL) and sodium cocoyl glutamate (SCG). The application of mono-dispersed polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/ silsesquioxane crosspolymer (DDVDDSC) improved both qualities. Air jet mill process has been mainly applied in the pharmaceutical and food industries, and is a method used for processing powder materials in cosmetic field. In this study, we were able to complete makeup cosmetics with an optimum particle size 6.8 μm by combining the air jet mill process at the manufacturing stage. It was confirmed that the Ti element was uniformly distributed throughout the cosmetics by EDS mapping, and that the corners of the tabular grains were rounded by SEM analysis. It is considered that this can provide an effect of improving the spreadability when the cosmetic is applied to the skin by using a makeup tool. LL with excellent skin compatibility and SCG derived from coconut with little skin irritation were wet coated to further enhance the adhesion of sericite. SEM images were analyzed to evaluate effect of the dispersion and uniformity of PMMA on spreadability. With the spherical shapes of similar size, it was found that the spreading effect was further increased when the distribution was homogeneously mono-dispersed. The dispersion and spreadability of PMMA were confirmed by measuring the kinetic friction and optimal content was determined. The silicone rubber powder, DDVDDSC, was confirmed by evaluating the hardness, spreading value, and drop test. Finally, it was found that the dispersion of PMMA and silicone rubber powder affected spreadability. Such makeup cosmetics have excellent stability in drop test while having appropriate hardness, and good stability over time. Taken together, it is concluded that air jet mill process can be utilized as a method to improve skin-affinity and spreadability of the pressed powder.

Key Words

cosmetic, skin-affinity, spreadability, air jet mill, pressed powder

엄지나 Ji Na Um , 민진우 Jin Woo Min , 주광식 Kwang Sik Joo , 강희철 Hee Cheol Kang

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Abstract

Hwangryunhaedoktang (HHT) has been traditionally used as a preventive and therapeutic medicine to treat enervation and diverse chronic diseases. This study was designed to compare the antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of HHT extract and its fermented extract by Leuconostoc mesenteroides (FHHT). FHHT was prepared by inoculation of L. mesenteroides after the extraction procedure with 70% ethanol. HHT and FHHT was investigated via high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Simultaneous qualitative analysis of two bioacitive components, berberine and palmatine. was achieved by comparing their retention times (tR) and UV spectra with those of the standard components. Cell viability test results indicated that both HHT and FHHT were non-toxic. In DPPH radical scavenging ability, SC₅₀ values of the FHHT was 68.85 ㎍/mL, which is more effective than HHT. Moreover, FHHT showed higher expression in production of procollagen type I than HHT. In nontoxic concentration range, FHHT showed strong melanin production inhibitory effect in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 cell (IC₅₀ = 9.82 μg/mL). These results suggested that fermented extracts of hwangryunhaedoktang had considerable potential as a cosmetics ingredient with an antioxidant and anti-wrinkle and whitening effects.

Key Words

antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, Hwangryunhaedoktang, Leuconostoc mesenteroides, whitening effect

여혜림 Hye Lim Yeo , 이지현 Ji Hyun Lee , 김수지 Su Ji Kim , 노민주 Minjoo Noh , 장지희 Ji Hui Jang , 김연준 Youn Joon Kim , 윤명석 Moung Seok Yoon , 유권종 Kweon Jong Yoo , 이준배 Jun Bae Lee

DOI:

Abstract

This study is related to a lamellar liquid crystal make-up cleansing formulation with a hologram-like unique appearance between two polarizing plates. Make-up cleansing formulations with a lamellar liquid crystal phase have been extensively studied for a long time, but there have been limitations in practical commercialization because of increasing turbidity and viscosity. In this study, to solve this problem, alkyl chains of surfactants were modified to increase the fluidity of the liquid crystal phase, and electrostatic repulsion force was increased by introducing anionic surfactant. The lamellar liquid crystal make-up cleansing formulation which introduced anionic surfactants can easily inhibit crystallization through electrostatic repulsion force, thereby showing excellent stability overtime, maintaining transparent appearance and viscosity. In addition, we have newly introduced an in vitro cleansing evaluation method using fluorescent material and in vivo imaging system (IVIS) for objective and quantitative cleansing ability evaluation. The excellent cleansing ability of lamellar liquid crystal cleansing formulation has been confirmed by newly developed evaluation method. On the other hand, when lamellar liquid crystal make-up cleansing formulation was placed between orthogonally arranged two polarizing plates, a specific pattern like a hologram can be observed. This phenomenon is presumably interpreted as the interference between the visible light passing through the liquid crystal formulation and the lamellar structure. The lamellar structure of cleansing formulation was confirmed by SAXS analysis, exhibiting Bragg spacing ratio of 1 : 2. The lamellar liquid crystal make-up cleansing formulation prepared in this study would be useful for future application in make-up cleansing due to its excellent stability, cleansing ability, and unique hologram-like pattern placed between two polarizing plates.

Key Words

liquid crystals, lamellar, D phase emulsification, hologram effect, SAXS