박청 Chung Park , 한종민 Jong-min Han

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Abstract

Kava (Piper methysticum, P. methysticum) is used as traditional herbal medicine for urogenital diseases, rheumatisms, gastrointestinal problems, respiratory irritations, and pulmonary pains. We identified a flavokavain C (FKC) from P. methysticum, which showed anti-inflammatory activity on nuclear factor κB (NF-κB)-dependent nitric oxide (NO) production and expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced RAW264.7 macrophages. FKC inhibited accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), such as hydrogen peroxide, and was able to dose-dependently reduce the LPS-induced NO production and the expression of various inflammation- associated genes (iNOS, IL-1β, IL-6) through inhibition of NF-κB and MAPKs (ERK and JNK). In conclusion, these results indicate that FKC may have the potential to prevent inflammation process including NF-κB and MAPKs pathways, and it could be applicable to functional cosmetics for anti-inflammation and antioxidant properties.

Key Words

Kava, flavokavain C, chalcone, NF-κB, mitogen-activated protein kinases

박성환 Sung Hwan Park , 김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 염현숙 Hyun Sook Yeum , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated identification of anti-oxidative constituents from Ficus erecta var. sieboldii King (F. erecta) leaves. DPPH and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activities were screened for the ethanol extract and solvent fractions, and ethyl acetate fraction showed the most potent scavenging activities. Five constituents were isolated from the ethyl acetate fraction of F. erecta leaves; monoolein (1), oleic acid (2), lutein (3), afzelechin (4), catechin (5). The chemical structures of the isolated compounds were elucidated based on the spectroscopic data including NMR spectra, as well as comparison of the data to the literature values. As far as we know, all of the compounds 1 ∼ 5 were isolated for the first time from this plant. Studies on DPPH and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activities were conducted for the isolated compounds. Among them, afzelechin (4) and catechin (5) showed strong DPPH and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activities, whose activities were comparable to a positive control vitamin C. Also, the content of catechin isolated from this plant was determined by HPLC and it was about 3.8 mg/g for the 70% ethanol extract and 20.8 mg/g for the ethyl acetate fraction. From these results, F. erecta leaves extract could be potentially applicable as anti-oxidant ingredients in cosmetic industries.

Key Words

Ficus erecta var. sieboldii, anti-oxidation, DPPH radical, ABTS radical, isolation

김미선 Mi-sun Kim , 최윤호 Yun Ho Choi , 박선규 Sun Gyoo Park , 이천구 Cheon Koo Lee , 이상화 Sang Hwa Lee

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Abstract

Cutaneous microvasculature plays a critical role in age-associated skin changes. A considerable reduction of number and size of vessels has been observed in the upper dermis of elderly skin. Forsythiae fructus (FF), the dried fruit of plant Forsythia suspensa (F. suspensa), has been traditionally used as an herbal medicine to treat inflammatory diseases and bacterial diseases. However, its regulatory effect on angiogenic responses has not been elucidated in skin. Therefore, we analyzed secretory profiles upon treatment of FF extract using array designed to detect angiogenesis- associated mediators in human keratinocytes. Because keratinocyte-derived VEGF (vascular endothelial growth factor) has been regarded as a potent factor for new microvasculature under the epidermis, we further investigated the effect of FF extract on VEGF production. We observed that the VEGF expression of mRNA and protein level was increased by about 2 folds in a dose-dependent manner after FF extract treatment. In signaling experiments, FF extract induced rapid p38 MAPK activation within 5 min, and the activation was totally abrogated by pretreatment with a p38 MAPK specific inhibitor. The FF-induced VEGF upregulation was also significantly attenuated by a p38 MAPK inhibition. Taken together, FF extract induces VEGF production via p38 MAPK activation in human epidermal keratinocytes. These novel findings suggest that FF is useful as a potential agent with pro-angiogenic activity and may help to improve age-dependent reduction of the microvasculature in aged skin or to heal skin wound.

Key Words

Forsythiae fructus, VEGF, p38 MAPK, skin angiogenesis, skin aging

이정아 Jung Ah Lee , 김주연 Ju Yeon Kim , 이선화 Sun Hwa Lee , 김보라 Bora Kim , 김남수 Nam Soo Kim , 문태기 Tae Kee Moon

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Abstract

Melasma has several well-recognized etiologic factors, but most researches focus on melanogenesis. The purpose of this study is to show improvement of melasma by reducing vascularity distinguished from melanogenesis. We examined 20 Korean women with both melasma and solar lentigo that were visually assessed by a dermatologist. The volunteers applied functional cosmetics for 8 weeks. We analyzed the results obtained using the chromameter, evaluating the skin color of three areas (melasma lesions, solar lentigo lesions, and non-lesional skin) on the face of volunteer. There was a statistically significant improvement in the brightness and redness of melasma lesions compared to those of non-lesional skin after 8 weeks. Also, we observed that the improvements in the brightness of melasma lesions and solar lentigo lesions were similar. However, the redness of melasma lesions improved more than that of solar lentigo lesions with statistical significance after 8 weeks. In this study, we have shown that brightness and redness in melasma lesions can be improved by functional cosmetics. Thus, we suggest redness to be an additional suitable parameter for the evaluation of melasma lesions.

Key Words

melasma lesions, lentigo lesions, non-lesional skin, redness, vascularity

이성훈 Sung Hoon Lee , 배일홍 Il-hong Bae , 민대진 Dae Jin Min , 김형준 Hyoung-june Kim , 박녹현 Nok Hyun Park , 최지예 Ji Hae Choi , 신진섭 Jin Seob Shin , 김은주 Eun Ju Kim , 이해광 Hae Kwang Lee

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Abstract

Many minerals and nutrient salts are abundant in Jeju lava sea water. The objective of this study was to evaluate the skin hydration effects of Jeju lava sea water. The skin barrier serves as a protective barrier that prevents the loss of moisture. The water holding capacity and water transport of the epidermis have been proposed to be important determinants of skin hydration. Jeju lava sea water increased the mRNA expression of filaggrin and caspase-14 which is related to natural moisturizing factor (NMF) formation. Aquaporins 3 (AQP3) are proteins that facilitate the transport of water across cell membranes. Jeju lava sea water increased the mRNA expression and protein expression of AQP3. We employed a skin equivalent model to assess the efficacy of Jeju lava sea water. In a skin equivalent model, Jeju lava sea water increased the CD44 (hyaluronic acid receptor) which is related to skin hydration. From these results, we found out Jeju lava sea water maybe help to skin hydration.

Key Words

Jeju lava water, skin hydration, NMF, AQP3, skin equivalent

송행선 Hang Sun Song , 장혜인 Hye In Jang

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Abstract

The purpose of this research was to examine the effect of the ehanol extracts of Sophora japonica L. (S. japonica). flowers, fruits and branches on skin enhancement with assessing anti-oxidative, whitening, and wrinkle enhancement effects. Results showed that l,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activities were 17.68 ± 1.59 ∼ 51.40 ± 1.04, 27.48 ± 0.22 ∼ 50.89 ± 0.13 and 30.79 ± 0.55 ∼ 45.17 ± 0.83%, respectively, in 50 ∼ 1,000 mg/L of concentrations. The capacities of inhibiting tyrosinase of ethanol extracts from S. japonica. flowers, fruits and branches were 0.27 ± 0.12 ∼ 11.38 ± 0.57, 0.27± 0.02 ∼ 0.82 ± 0.27 and 0.09 ± 0.16 ∼ 0.55 ± 0.27%, respectively. The capacities of preventing porcine pancreatic elastase (PPE) were 3.70 ± 1.23 ∼ 7.28 ± 1.01, 3.06 ± 2.13 ∼ 13.03 ± 2.99 and 6.00 ± 0.96 ∼ 9.71 ± 0.44%, respectively, in the case of 50 ∼ 1,000 mg/L of concentrations. It is concluded that the effects of S. japonica. flowers, fruits and branches on skin improvement are varied significantly.

Key Words

japonica L., japonica L. flowers, japonica L. fruits, japonica L. branches, skin improvement

김도윤 Do Yoon Kim , 유호진 Ho Jin Yu , 황대일 Dae Il Hwang , 장상희 Sang Hee Jang , 이환명 Hwan Myung Lee

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Abstract

Exosome, a small vesicle secreted from cells, has diverse functions depending on cell origins and tissue types and plays a important role in cell viability and intercellular communication. Recently, many researchers have demonstrated the use of exosomes for the treatment of cancers and immune diseases, and the development of diagnostic biomarker. However, the secretion mechanism of exosome from skin cell and its physiological functions in skin remain unclear. Thus, this study aimed to explore whether keratinocyte-derived exosome affects proliferation and migration in HaCaTs. Exosomes were isolated from HaCaTs by ExoQuick-TC and then boiled or unbolied. Boiled and unboiled exosome induced proliferation in HaCaTs in a dose-dependant manner (0.1 ∼ 20 μg/mL), respectively. Boiled and unboiled exosome at concentration of 20 μg/mL increased proliferation level in HaCaTs by 186.96 ± 3.87% and 193.48 ± 10.48% compared with control group. Unboiled exosome stimulated migration in HaCaTs in a dose-dependent manner (0.1 ∼ 20 μg/mL), which reached a maxium at concentration of 20 μg/mL (179.39 ± 4.89% of control), but boiled exosome did not affect HaCaT migration. In addition, unboiled exosome (0.1 ∼ 20 μg/mL) dose-dependently stimulated sprout outgrowth in HaCats. These results demonstrate that in exosome from HaCaTs, heat-stable components such as lipid may induce HaCaT proliferation and heat-unstable components such as protein may stimulate migration and sprout outgrowth in HaCaTs, thereby leading to reepithelialization and skin-wound healing activities. It is concluded that exosomes from HaCaTs may be used as cosmetic materials.

Key Words

skin, keratinocyte, exosome, migration, proliferation

홍양희 Yang-hee Hong , 정은영 Eun Young Jung , 서형주 Hyung Joo Suh , 한성희 Sung Hee Han

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Abstract

In this study, the skin-improving effect was investigated through the oral intake of DuOligo (51.67% lactulose and 15.8% galactooligosaccharides). Thirty seven healthy women (40 ∼ 60 in ages) were divided into placebo group (dextrin) and treatment group (DuOligo group), and each group was given a sample for oral intake for 8 weeks. After that, corneometer value, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin index, erythema index, and wrinkle index were measured. As a result, moisture content of DuOligo group increased 38.22% than control group after 8 weeks significantly (p < 0.01). The TEWL of control group decreased by 3.39 g/h/㎡ after 8 weeks but the TEWL of DuOligo group decreased by 5.32 g/h/㎡ after 8 weeks. The melanin index of the control group was significantly increased with times, but the melanin index of the DuOligo group did not show any significant difference with times. The total wrinkles, length of total wrinkles, number of wrinkles, and depth of wrinkles significantly decreased (p < 0.05) compared to the control group. These results suggested that the applicability of DuOligo as a skin improving functional material was confirmed.

Key Words

DuOligo, lactulose, human skin, wrinkle, whitening

주다혜 Da-hye Joo , 유단희 Dan-hee Yoo , 이진영 Jin-young Lee

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Abstract

In order to investigate the possibility of Sesamum indicum L. (S. indicum) extract as an active ingredient for wrinkle-care cosmetics, we prepared 70% ethanolic extract of S. indicum and measured its elastase inhibitory activity and collagenase inhibitory activity. We also evaluated the effect of S. indicum extract on protein and mRNA expression of MMPs in fibroblast cell (CCD-986sk). For anti-wrinkle effects, elastase inhibition activities and collagenase inhibition activities were 37.8% and 45% at a dose of 1,000 μg/mL of S. indicum 70% ethanol extract. For a cell viability test, measured on fibroblast cell by ethanol extract of S. indicum, results showed 96% with cell viability at 100 μg/mL concentration. According to the results of western blot of ethanol extract from S. indicum the expression of the matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), matrix metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2), matrix metalloproteinase-3 (MMP-3) protein was decreased by 63%, 43%, 49% at 100 μg/mL concentration. Reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (PCR) of ethanol extract from S. indicum showed that the expression of MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3 mRNA was decreased by 82%, 79%, 82% at 100 μg/mL concentration. The findings suggest that 70% ethanol extract from S. indicum has potential as a cosmeceutical ingredient with anti-wrinkle effects.

Key Words

Sesamum indicum L., anti-wrinkle, MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3

조완구 Wan Goo Cho , 김은희 Eun Hee Kim , 장선일 Seon Il Jang , 조병옥 Byoung Ok Cho

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Abstract

In this work, we compared the emulsion states having the same composition of liquid paraffin/ Span 80-Tween 80/ pure water and the different mixing paths and temperatures. Routes reaching the final composition in three component phase diagram were composed of three different ways. The average particle size of the emulsion prepared from the different mixing routes showed a significant difference and decreased as the mixing temperature was increased. However, the mixing route affected more in the size of the emulsions than mixing temperature.

Key Words

nanoemulsion, oil-in-water, mixing route, stability, PIC

김윤선 Yun-sun Kim , 김유미 Yumi Kim , 이상화 Sanghwa Lee

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Abstract

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation from the sun is the primary environmental factor that causes skin damages including skin cancer and premature skin aging. Because, even the most powerful sunscreen can’t always afford enough protection, it is necessary to enhance the defensive power of skin against UV. Recently, constitutive photomorphogenic protein-1 (COP1) has shown to contribute to the regulation of UVB response of keratinocytes. In this study, we represent that COP1 and its associated protein, de-etiolated 1 (DET1), might participate in photoaging process in human skin as Arabidopsis COP1 does sun-protective function in plants. After UVB irradiation, the decrease of COP1 and DET1 mRNA expression was followed by the increase of c-Jun total protein. Moreover, transfection with DNA vectors expressing COP1 and DET1 down-regulated the c-Jun total protein. We found that Zanthoxylum piperitum extract (ZE) up-regulated the expression of COP1 and DET1 on human keratinocytes, and inhibited the expression of MMP1 which is one of the genes regulated by c-Jun signal. In addition, ZE has been reported to stimulate PPAR-α and strengthen the skin barrier. We found that ZE decreased the UVB-induced IL-6 and IL-8 in NHEK cells. In human study, ZE protected skin against UV-B induced erythema and erythema-induced pigmentation. These results indicate that ZE could be useful for the protection against the adverse effects of UV irradiation through various mechanisms.

Key Words

COP1, DET1, photoaging, PPAR-α, Zanthoxylum piperitum extract

최선경 Sun Kyung Choi , 조남준 Nam Joon Cho , 조욱민 Uk Min Cho , 심중현 Joong Hyun Shim , 김기광 Kee K. Kim , 황형서 Hyung Seo Hwang

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Abstract

The tight junction, one of Intercellular junctions, performs a variety of biological functions by bonding adjacent cells, including the barrier function to control the movement of the electrolyte and water. Recent studies have revealed that unusual expression of tight junction-related genes have been shown to be related in cancer development and progression. Recently, there are many reports that control of tight junction proteins expression is closely related to the skin moisture. In this study, we are focusing on the regulating mechanism of tight junction-associated genes by the steviol and its derivatives. Steviol, used as a sweetner, is known to chemical compound isolated from stevia plant. The MTS (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-5-(3-carboxymethoxyphenyl)-2-(4-sulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium, inner salt) assay was carried out in HaCaT cells (human keratinocyte cell line) in order to determine the cytotoxicity. As a result, while steviol showing cytotoxicity from 250 μM, steviol derivatives are not cytotoxic more than 250 μM concentration. We have observed a change in the tight junction protein via quantitative real-time PCR. Claudin 8 among tight junction proteins is only significantly reduced up to 30% in the presence of steviol. In addition, cell migration was inhibited by steviol, not by stevioside and rebaudioside. Finally, we could observe that steviol, not stevioside and rebaudioside, is able to increase the skin barrier permeability through the transepithelial electric resistance (TEER) measurements. These results suggest that the steviol and its derivatives are specifically acts on the tight junction related gene expression, but steviol derivatives are more suitable as a cosmetic material.

Key Words

steviol, steviol glycoside, tight junction, claudin 8, cell migration

남개원 Gaewon Nam*†

DOI:

Abstract

Hydroxy acid has been used to enhance anti-aging and skin moisturization by peeling effect on the skin stratum corneum, and thus it has been widely used in topical products and cosmetic products. Among them, the effect that appears most effectively in a short period of time has been reported to be effected by the pH of the cosmetic formulations. However, there are many difficulties in use due to irritation caused by pH and concerns about side effects. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of applying cosmetics with (1) varying concentrations, (2) types and (3) pH of hydroxy acid on human skin. 22 healthy adults were stained with DHA (dihydroxyacetone) and DC (dansyl chloride) on the forearm, and the skin exfoliation effect was measured after application of the test products. (1) The application of GA (glycolic acid) increased the desquamation by concentration dependent. (2) the test product prepared with neutral pH showed no exfoliation effect. In contrast, SA (salicylic acid) showed a statistically significant exfoliation effect at both acidic pH and neutral pH. (3) The neutral pH SA showed excellent exfoliation effect on both DHA and DC stained stratum corneum. These results suggest that it is possible to manufacture safe cosmetics without damaging the skin barrier, providing an opportunity to use cosmetics that are expected to exfoliate to people, whose skin is sensitive to pH.

Key Words

glycolic acid, salicyclic acid, exfoliation, dihydroxyacetone, dansyl chloride, desquamation, pH

성경아 Gyeong Ah Sung , 김미혜 Mi Hye Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In order to find new functional materials for the cosmetics application, we investigated anti-inflammatory and whitening effects of the Protaetia brevitarsis seulensis (P. brevitarsis) extracts, which were prepared by the various oriental conversion methods, as follows; fresh, roasted one time, roasted two times, roasted three times, and steamed. 2,2-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activities of the various solvent extracts (80% ethanol, 50% ethanol, ethyl acetate, hexane) of P. brevitarsis extracts were 85.5, 22.4, 37.0 and 19.4% respectively. The 80% ethanol extract with the highest antioxidant activity was used for all experiments. In case of antioxidant activity test of the extracts, all the extracts showed the activities in concentration dependent manner regardless of the sample preparation methods. Superoxide dismutase-like (SOD-like) activities of the extracts roasted three times and steamed were 62.9 and 55.9%, respectively in 500 μg/mL. Effects of extracts on the inflammation of RAW 264.7 cell induced by lipopolysaccharide (LPS) showed decreasing tendency of NOㆍand prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) production; PBS fresh (38.0%), PBS roasted one time (41.0%), PBS roasted two times (69.8%), PBS roasted three times (70.1%), PBS steamed (78.5%). Intracellular tyrosinase and melanin biosynthesis inhibitory activities of the extracts were decreased in a concentration dependent manner. However, the fresh P. brevitarsis extracts without the oriental conversion method showed 90.7% decrease compared to the control group treated with α-MSH alone at 500 μg/mL. Taken together, these results suggest the oriental conversion method can be applied in development of cosmetic materials in order to improve anti-inflammatory and whitening effects of the cosmetics products.

Key Words

Protaetia brevitarsis seulensis, anti-inflammation, whitening, oriental conversion method, cosmetics

한사라 Sa Ra Han , 이현경 Hyeongyeong Lee , 김희진 Hee-jin Kim , 조윤나 Yoon Na Cho , 이승준 Seung-jun Lee , 조춘구 Choon-koo Zhoh , 정재현 Jae Hyun Jeong

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Abstract

In this study, a poly (amino acid)s derivative grafted with retinoic acids, which could form self-assemblies in an aqueous solution, was successfully synthesized. The synthesized amphiphilic poly (amino acid)s were controlled with 5, 10, 30 mol% substitution of retinoic acid. Then, the amphiphilic poly (amino acid)s were self-assembled by inter/intra molecular stacking of retinoic acids in an aqueous solution. Also, the increasing the degree of substitution (DS) of retinoic acids decreased the size of self-assembled nanoparticles and induced structural transition to bilayer structure from spherical structure. The retinol was stably encapsulated into a core of self-assembled nanoparticle with 10 mol% of DS. This strategy to prepare the self-assemblies of amphiphilic polyaspartamide will serve to improve the efficiency of targeted delivery for a functional cosmetic with various biological modalities.

Key Words

polyaspartamide, retinol, self-assembly, degree of substitution