박건혁 Gunhyuk Park , 김용웅 Yong-ung Kim

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Abstract

Recently, increased attention has been directed toward medicinal extracts and their active ingredients as potential new drug candidates for androgenic alopecia. Resina Pini (RP), a resinous exudation obtained from Pinus sp. (Pinaceae), has been used as a traditional medicine for the treatment of infection, pain related to dental caries, and periodontal disease. Previously, we suggested that RP and its main constituent, abietic acid (abieta-7,13-dien-18-oic acid; AA), may play important roles against androgenic alopecia as 5α-reductase inhibitors. However, to date, there is no evidence that AA has hair growth-promoting effects in vivo. In this study, we found that 10 ∼ 300 mg/kg RP and 3 ∼ 30 mg/kg AA significantly promoted hair growth in a C3H/HeN mouse model of alopecia. To our knowledge, this is the first report of the hair growth-promoting effects of RP and AA in vivo. From these results, RP and its main constituent AA can promote hair growth in mouse by inhibiting 5α-reductase activity and may be effective alternative therapies for androgenic alopecia.

Key Words

hair growth, Resina Pini, abietic acid, androgenic alopecia, mouse model, 5α-reductase inhibitor

이수현 Su-hyon Lee , 정행선 Haeng-sun Jung , 김설영 Seol-yeong Kim , 김혜수 Hye Soo Kim , 임경민 Kyung-min Lim , 정영신 Young-shin Chung , 최태부 Tae-boo Choe

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Abstract

Micronucleus test is genotoxicity assay for detection of micronuclei in the cytoplasm of interphase cells. The reduction and replacement of in vivo toxicity testing on animals require the development of in vitro models to predict the genotoxicity or other tests for cosmetic products. In this study, we evaluated a genotoxicity assay for topically applied chemicals using a three-dimensional human reconstructed skin model, KeraSkinTM. Two genotoxins, mitomycin C (MMC) and methyl methanesulfonate (MMS), induced significant dose-related increases in cytotoxicity and micronuclei induction in the skin model. In contrast, two non-genotoxins, 4-nitrophenol (4-NP) and trichloroethylene (TCE), induced cytotoxicity but not micronucleus formation. In conclusion, micronucleus test using human skin model may be useful for predicting in vitro genotoxic potentials of cosmetic products.

Key Words

reconstructed human epidermis, KeraSkin^TM, genotoxicity, micronucleustest

현송화 Song Hua Xuan , 김아랑 A Rang Kim , 정윤주 Yoon Ju Jeong , 이난희 Nan Hee Lee , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated the antioxidative and cellular protective effects on HaCaT cells and erythrocytes of Moringa oleifera (M. oleifera) leaves extract and its fractions. All experiments were performed with 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction of M. oleifera leaves. The free radical scavenging activity (FSC₅₀) of the extract and fractions of M. oleifera leaves were in the following order: 50% ethanol extract (77.10 μg/mL) < ethyl acetate fraction (20.63 μg/mL) < aglycone fraction (17.00 μg/mL) by using the 1, 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl. In Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system using the luminol, reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (total antioxidant capacity, OSC₅₀) of aglycone fraction (OSC₅₀ = 0.63 μg/mL) was the strongest among all extracts, which was much higher than L-ascorbic acid (1.50 μg/mL). In the ¹O₂-induced cellular damage of erythrocytes, the cellular protective effects of 50% ethanol extract (τ₅₀ = 46.9 min) and aglycone fraction (τ₅₀ = 122.1 min) were higher than (+)-α-tocopherol (τ₅₀ = 37.7 min), known as a lipophilic antioxidant at 10 μg/mL. After cell damage induced by 400 mJ/cm2 UVB irradiation, the cellular protective effects of ethyl acetate and aglycone fraction of M. oleifera leaves extract were showed on the concentration from 0.20 to 1.56 μg/mL. These results suggest that M. oleifera leaves extract and its fractions can function as a natural antioxidant agent in cosmetics on skin exposed to UV radiation by protecting cellular membrane against ROS.

Key Words

M. oleifera, antioxidant, reactive oxygen species, cellular protective effect

현주미 Ju Mi Hyun , 김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 염현숙 Hyun Sook Yeum , 송정민 Jung-min Song , 김미량 Mi Ryang Kim , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

This study was designed to analyze the chemical compositions of ‘Setoka’ branch essential oils (SEBO) and to test their biological activities. ‘Setoka’ is a Citrus species widely cultivated in Jeju Island. At the present, ‘Setoka’ branches produced by thinning process were mostly discarded as a waste. Therefore, utilization of this branch waste has received much attention. ‘Setoka’ branch essential oils (SBEO) were prepared by treatment of its ethanol extracts with jojoba oil. SBEO were chemically analyzed using gas chromatograph-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), and following components were identified; ethyl linoleate (64.14%), ethyl palmitate (16.50%), neophytadiene (11.06%) and beta-citronellol (5.09%). The anti-inflammatory activity in the SBEO was examined using RAW 264.7 murine macrophage cells stimulated with LPS. As a result, the SBEO inhibited nitric oxide (NO) productions with a dose-dependent manner. In addition, SBEO showed good anti-microbial activities against drug-susceptible and -resistant skin pathogens such as Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes, which are acne-causing bacteria. Based on these results, we suggest that SBEO has the possibility for use as an anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial agent in cosmetic applications.

Key Words

essential oil, Citrus, setoka, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory

신은지 Eun Ji Shin , 박주웅 Joo Woong Park , 최지원 Ji Won Choi , 서정연 Jeong Yeon Seo , 박용일 Yong Il Park

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Abstract

In this study, we examined the effects of various molecular weights (1, 10, 50, 100, 660, and 1500 kDa) of sodium hyaluronate (HA), which were prepared by enzyme hydrolysis, on the collagen synthesis, anti-inflammation and skin absorption. These HA did not significantly affect the viability of human dermal fibroblast Hs68 cells. Among them, 1500 kDa, 50 kDa HA most significantly increased collagen production by 59%, and 50% in the Hs 68 cells, respectively. Whereas 1500 and 660 kDa HA hardly pass through mouse transdermis membrane, lower molecular weights (1, 10, or 50 kDa) of HA showed time-dependent increase in skin permeation. HA of 50 kDa showed highest anti-inflammatory effects by reducing nitric oxide and tumor necrosis factor-α production in the RAW 264.7 cells, comparing to other HA (1, 10, and 100 kDa HA). Recently, there is no report about anti-wrinkle and anti-inflammatory effects and skin permeation of different molecular weights HA (1, 10 , 50, 100, 660 and 1500 kDa), which were produced by enzyme hydrolysis. These results suggested that 50 kDa HA can be potent candidates for the development of effective anti-aging and anti-wrinkle cosmetic agents. The results of this study demonstrated that among those HA with different molecular weights, 50 kDa HA showed highest anti-inflammatory activity, significant capability to induce collagen synthesis and high level of skin permeation.

Key Words

hyaluronic acid, collagen synthesis, skin absorption, anti-inflammation

이영선 Young Sun Lee , 김재영 Jae Young Kim , 차미연 Mi Yeon Cha , 강희철 Hee Cheol Kang

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Abstract

In order to select a strain that forms a Biocellulose (BC), strain producing acetic acid was selected from commercially available kombucha. Through SM broth it was confirmed that the strain is a gram negative bacteria in the form of rods having no motility through a phase contrast microscope. The result of phylogenetic inference analysis based on 16S rDNA sequence analysis for the identification of strains was most closely related to Gluconobacter uchimurae (G. uchimurae) and was named G. uchimurae GYS15 strain. The strain showed the highest degree of growth when cultured for 14 days under the conditions of pH 5 and 25 ℃. Moreover, it showed the highest degree of growth in a Glucose addition disaccharide as the optimum carbon source sucrose and fructose. Also, 0.5% NaCl, upon the addition of Malto extract, showed the highest degree of growth. Based on investigation by the optimum growth conditions to confirm the physical properties of BC obtained by culturing G. uchimurae GYS15 strains. The surface structure was observed through an scanning electron microscope (SEM) showed a high networks structure. It until 8.6 ± 0.38 times when the water holding capacity is re-absorbed and re-absorbed holding oil up to 6.6 ± 0.51 times confirmed. In conclusion, using these material properties, it was possible to confirm the possibility of a variety of cosmetic materials and mask pack materials.

Key Words

Gluconobacter, G. uchimurae, Biocellulose, nanofibril, cosmetics

부희정 Hee-jung Bu , 이선주 Sunjoo Lee

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Abstract

The functions of anti-oxidation and anti-inflammation were investigated with the crude 80% methanol extract, subfractions and henryin isolated from Isodon inflexus (Thunb.) Kudo (I. inflexus (Thunb.) Kudo). Antioxidative ability was evaluated by bioassays using 2, 2-diphenyl-1-1-picrydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging activity, xanthine oxidase inhibition, and superoxide radical scavenging effects. Ethyl acetate and butanol fractions exhibited free radical scavenging activity on superoxide with IC₅₀ values of 0.9 μg/mL, 0.2 μg/mL, respectively, which were stronger activity than that of allopurinol (2.2 μg/mL) as reference. For the inhibition of anti-inflammatory activity in RAW 264.7 cell, the ethyl acetate fraction showed strong inhibition activity NO production, and henryin isolated from its subfraction reduced the activity in a dose-dependent manner. Ethyl acetate fraction and henryin suppressed not only mRNA expression of iNOS and COX-2, but also the mRNA expression of pre-inflammatory cytokines such as, TNF-α, 1L-1β, IL-6, in a dose-dependent manner. These results suggested that ethyl acetate fraction of I. inflexus (Thunb.) Kudo has considerable potential as a cosmetics ingredient with an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects and henryin can be applied as an functional reference.

Key Words

antioxidant, anti-imflammation, henryin, I. inflexus, Thunb., Kudo, cosmetics

김관철 Kwan-chul Kim , 권용범 Yong-beom Kwon , 장해동 Hae-dong Jang , 김재화 Jae Wha Kim , 정재철 Jae Cheol Jeong , 이익수 Ik-soo Lee , 하병조 Byung-jo Ha , 유익동 Ick-dong Yoo

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Abstract

In searching for novel agents for skin anti-aging from natural resources, we found that the extract of the fruiting bodies of Ramaria formosa (R. formosa) had significant antioxidant and human neutrophil elastase (HNE) inhibitory activities. R. formosa extract exhibited a considerable DPPH radical scavenging activity with an antioxidant content of 117.0 mg/mL (ascorbic acid equivalents) at the concentration of 500 μg/mL. The capacity of R. formosa extract to scavenge peroxy radicals measured by ORAC assay also showed dose-dependent antioxidant effect with ORAC_Roo (trolox equivalents, 1 μM) values of 0.8, 5.2, and 7.8 at the concentrations of 1, 10, and 20 μg/mL. The cellular antioxidant capacity of R. formosa extract was investigated by assaying the cellular fluorescence intensity using dichlorodihydrofluorescein (DCF). The cellular oxidative stress induced by AAPH, Cu²⁺ or H2O2 in HepG2 cells was significantly attenuated by more than 30% at 20 μg/mL of R. formosa extract. HNE activity was reduced by treatment with R. formosa extract in a dose-dependent manner, and the ED₅₀ value for the ethanol extract of R. formosa was 42.9 μg/mL. R. formosa extract did not exhibited antimicrobial activity against four microorganisms including Bacillus subtilis (B. subtilis), Escherichia coli (E. coli), Candida albicans (C. albicans), Aspergillus oryzae (A. oryzae). Furthermore, the extract did not affect the inflammatory cytokine production of interleukin-10 and interferon-γ in NK92 cells. From the above results, we found that R. formosa extract has considerable antioxidant and elastase inhibitory effects, and does not stimulate immune cells. These findings suggest that R. formosa extract may be used as a bioactive component in cosmetic composition.

Key Words

urea, anti-oxidants, glutachion, shaving, facial hair weakening

김일구 Il Gu Kim , 한나경 Na Kyung Han , 김선영 Sun Young Kim , 한종섭 Jong Sub Han

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Abstract

In this study, facial hair weakening ability of urea and anti-oxidants for shaving was investigated. The hair weakening ability and cross-section increase of hair depends on concentration of urea. The results showed that urea affects swelling of hair and this is related to the hair weakening ability. Anti-oxidants showed outstanding weakening ability despite of their low concentrations by breaking disulfide bond in facial hair. To evaluate the suitability of urea and anti-oxidants for facial cosmetic products, in vitro safety tests were proceeded. The results showed that urea and glutathione were safe for face. As a result, urea and glutathione were safe and outstanding as hair weakening agent for cosmetic shaving products.

Key Words

urea, antioxidants, glutathione, shaving, facial hair weakening

김인혜 In Hae Kim , 이재화 Jae Hwa Lee

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Abstract

To investigate the effect of dietary fiber from mozuku, Cladosiphon novae-caledoniae kylin (C. novae-caledoniae kylin) on the skin care, we measured anti-oxidant activity, anti-microbial activities, tyrosinase activity inhibition and elastic activity. B16F10 melanoma cell (MTT assay) were used to measure cell viability. MC and MI exhibited in vitro antibacterial activity against Staphyloccus aureus (S. aureus) and MRSA without antifungal activity. Mozuku extract (MS) showed excellent tyrosinase inhibition effect compared to arbutin as a positive control (to 49% for tyrosine). The wrinkle-improving effect was relatively low. However, wrinkle-improving effect was relatively low. DPPH free radical scavenging activity was 89% in a concentrations at 500 μg/mL. These results indicate that the mozuku extracts may be an effective cosmetic ingredient for skin whitening.

Key Words

mozuku, Cladosiphon novae-caledoniae kylin, methicillin-resistance Staphylococcus aureus, DPPH, anti-wrinkle

박소현 So Hyun Park , 김수지 Su Ji Kim , 노민주 Min Joo Noh , 이준배 Jun Bae Lee , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, we prepared liquid crystal emulsions composed of C_12-20 alkyl glucoside, C_14-22 alcohol, and behenyl alcohol and performed structure analysis using various analytical equipment. First, as an important characteristic of liquid crystal emulsions, maltese cross patterns and multi-layer structure were observed by a polarized microscope and cryo-SEM. Also, formation of liquid crystal phase was confirmed by DSC and multi-layer lamellar structure having an interlayer spacing approximately 305 Å was confirmed by small angle x-ray scattering (SAXS). The alkyl chain arrangement formed orthorhombic structure of a lamellar structure of the liquid crystal emulsion was confirmed by wide angle x-ray scattering (WAXS). These results suggest that information on the various physical properties obtained through the research of liquid crystal emulsion structure is expected to be widely used in cosmetics development in the future.

Key Words

liquid crystal emulsion, multi-lamellar, SAXS, WAXS

김주연 Ju Yeon Kim , 김정윤 Jung Yun Kim , 최치호 Chi Ho Choi , 임주혁 Joo Hyuck Lim , 추민주 Min Joo Choo , 문성호 Sung Ho Moon , 장신재 Shin Jae Chang

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Abstract

The human skins had a lot of changes as aging. The synthesis of collagens and elastic fibers were reduced and the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) was increased in the dermis. These changes have been known to be responsible for skin wrinkle formation. In this study, we tried to develop pre-indicator of inner skin aging, and investigated the effect of the cream product containing Gynostemma pentaphyllum gypenoside fraction (Gynostemma pentaphyllum gypenoside cream). 21 ∼ 34 years old 52 Korean female volunteers without crow’s feet were chosen for this clinical study. The starting point of inner skin aging was confirmed through dermal density measurement, even though outside skin wrinkles were not observed. In addition, 4 and 8 weeks treatment of G. pentaphyllum gypenoside cream significantly increased age-related reduction of dermal density. These results suggest that the evaluation of dermal density can be used as pre-indicator of skin aging. Furthermore, G. pentaphyllum gypenoside fraction is a potential anti- wrinkle agent for prevention and treatment of skin aging.

Key Words

inner skin aging, dermal density, G. pentaphyllum gypenoside fraction, pre-indicator of skin aging, anti-wrinkle