장윤희 Yun Hee Chang , 서대훈 Dae Hoon Seo , 고아름 A Rum Koh , 김선영 Sun Young Kim , 임준만 Jun Man Lim , 한종섭 Jong Seup Han , 이상화 Sang Hwa Lee , 박선규 Sun Gyoo Park , 김양한 Yang Han Kim

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Abstract

Efficacy of cosmetics has been mainly evaluated by qualitative and quantitative methods based on visual sense, tactile sense and skin structure until now. In this study, we suggested a novel evaluation method for skin status based on sound; measuring and analyzing the rubbing noise generated by applying cosmetics. First, the rubbing noise was measured at a close range by a high-sensitivity microphone in anechoic environment, and the noises were analyzed by 1/3 octave band analysis in frequency-domain. Three conditions, 1) before washing, 2) after washing and 3) after application of cosmetics, were compared. As a result, sound pressure level (SPL) of rubbing noise after washing was larger than that of before washing, and the SPL of rubbing noise after cosmetic application was the smallest. Furthermore, the energy of rubbing noise after application was higher than that of the before and after washing conditions in a low frequency band (lower than 2 kHz region). Conversely, the energy of rubbing noise after application was much lower than the others in a high-frequency band (upper than 2 kHz region). This change of energy distribution was described as a balloon-skin model. High SPL in the low frequency region after the cosmetic applications was due to the increase of “flexibility index”, while SPL in the high frequency region significantly decreased because of the attenuation which is related to “softness index”. Therefore, we developed two indices based on the spectrum-energy difference for evaluating skin conditions. This proposed method and indices were verified via skin flexibility and roughness measurement using cutometer and primos respectively. These results suggest that acoustic measurement of skin friction noise may be a new skin status evaluation method.

Key Words

friction noise, rubbing noise, 1/3 octave analysis, sound pressure level, sound quality

서준혁 Joon Hyuk Suh , 현무열 Moo Yeol Hyun , 장성은 Seong Eum Jang , 최선영 Sun Young Choi , 김명남 Myeung Nam Kim , 김범준 Beom Joon Kim

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Abstract

Acne vulgaris is a chronic inflammatory condition characterized by comedo, papule, cyst, nodule and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Meanwhile, it is also induced by adverse event of drugs. Among them, acneiform folliculitis is a side effect of epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR) inhibitor, which is an anticancer agent, and its incidence may occur in upward of 75 ∼ 100% of cases. The main method of acne vulgaris treatment is oral antibiotics, retinoids, topical medication and so on. However, it is limitation that teratogenicity caused by retinoids and antibiotic resistance increased by using antibiotics. In this study, we aimed to evaluate the clinical efficacy and safety of topical recombinant human (rh) EGF in treating facial acne vulgaris. Twenty three Koreans (age: 10 ∼ 29 years) with mild to moderate acne vulgar participated in the study and applied topical rhEGF cream (trouble control EGF) with 3 products (trouble control clarifying cleansing foam, trouble control all-clear filling toner, redroll calming moisture) on their face cetwice daily for four weeks. Several assessment methods were applied: Acne lesion counts score by investigator’s global assessment, efficacy and satisfaction score by subjects. Skin sebum output level, hydration level and redness level were also measured at each visit. At the final visit, skin sebum level, transepidermal water loss, skin redness statistically decreased and acne lesions (comedone, papule) were statistically reduced. No severe side effects were observed during the study. In conclusion, topical rhEGF seems to be an effective and safe adjuvant treatment option for mild acne vulgaris.

Key Words

acne vulgaris, epidermal growth factor, EGF, recombinant human EGF

김효민 Hyo Min Kim , 이정노 Jung No Lee , 김재문 Jae Moon Kim , 김성규 Sung Kyu Kim , 박성민 Sung-min Park

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Abstract

Skin is the largest organ that protects the body from the external environmental factors such as smog, cigarette smoke, UV. Protective skin barrier is composed with keratinizational keratinocytes and intercellular lipids such as ceramides, cholesterols and fatty acids combined by the lamellar liquid crystal structure. In this research, we confirmed that the Jeju wild ginseng (JWG) extracts dose-dependently increased the expression of serine-palmitoyltransferase (SPT) protein which is associated with ceramide biosynthesis. In addition, emulsion containing 5% JWG extract was applied on skin of human volunteers for 2 weeks and then significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) compared to that of control group. As a results, JWG extract increased the biosynthesis of ceramides that is the key components of the skin lipid through enhancing expression of SPT. In addition, JWG extract reduced TEWL resulting in improvement of skin barrier function. In this context, we suggest that JWG extract could be used as a skin barrier enhancer and moisturing agents in cosmetic fileds.

Key Words

Jeju wild ginseng, JWG, ceramide, SPT, TEWL, skin barrier

조완구 Wan Goo Cho

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Abstract

In this study, water-in-oil (W/O) nanoemulsions of water/Span 80-Nikkol BL 25/oil system were prepared by the PIC method at elevated temperature. This method allows the formation of finely dispersed W/O nanoemulsions with low viscosity in this system. However, macroemulsions rather than nanoemulsions were prepared by PIC method at room temperature. As a result of the significant change of interfacial tension with temperature, the emulsion droplet size decreases from 2 μm to 100 nm with the increase in temperature from 30 ℃ to 80 ℃. The droplet size of nanoemulsions prepared at 80 ℃ was in the range of 50 ∼ 200 nm and the internal phase content could reach as high as 15 wt%. The most stable nanoemulsion was formed in the vicinity of 7.0 of optimum HLB of the emulsifier mixture. The obtained nanoemulsions were stable without obvious change in droplet size in one month. This study provides valuable information for optimizing the formation of W/O nanoemulsions with low viscosity. These results suggest that W/O nanoemulsions of low viscosity could be useful for cosmetics with soft feeling.

Key Words

nanoemulsion, water-in-oil, low viscosity, stability, PIC

한병석 Byung Seok Han , 김수영 Su Young Kim , 이경록 Kyung Rok Lee , 서효현 Hyo Hyun Seo , 모상현 Sang Hyun Moh

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated the stability of the liposome formulation containing the phytochemicals-peptide derivatives. Among liposomes prepared using lecithins or surfactant under various conditions, the most stable niosome was obtained by using sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate and macadamia intergrifolia seed oil. The stability of peptide-containing niosome (N9) was confirmed by the TEM images. The N9 was stable at 0 and 45 degrees by Turbiscan, and its particle size was 95.7 nm. The N9 showed zeta potential value of －78.19 mV, and peptide-inclusion rate of 65.2% by BCA assay.

Key Words

phytochemical-peptide derivatives, liposome, niosome, Turbiscan, zeta potential

김도형 Do Hyung Kim , 김효진 Hyo Jin Kim , 여혜린 Hyerin Yeo , 이천구 Cheon Goo Lee , 이상화 Sang Hwa Lee

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Abstract

Epidermis is continuously regenerated by keratinocyte stem cells (KSCs) residing in basement membrane, which is critical to the survival of an organism. KSCs are believed to persist during the whole lifetime and generate an enormous number of keratinocytes, required for the maintenance of epidermis, through transit amplifying cells dividing definite times until they become differentiated. In this report, we have developed a phenolic compound, paeonol, purified from Moutan Cortex, as a KSC proliferation activator, by screening about 350 herbal compounds. The cell proliferation activation by paeonol is specific for KSC not for keratinocyte, and no significant difference in the expression of p63 protein, a KSC marker, in KSCs treated with paeonol was observed in FACS analysis with anti-p63 antibody. In the colony forming assay, paeonol-treated KSC showed improved colony forming activity more than 1.3 fold. In addition, the result of PCR array shows that the activity of paeonol is through several signal pathways involving stem cell functions. These results suggest that paeonol could enhance KSC proliferation activity without reduction in stemness and could be applied to cosmetics as a KSC activating ingredient.

Key Words

anti-aging, paeonol, keratinocyte stem cell, p63 protein, cosmetics

김동욱 Dong Wook Kim , 백태선 Tae Seon Baek , 김윤정 Yun Jeong Kim , 최성규 Sung Kyu Choi , 이대우 Dae Woo Lee

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated the moisturizing effects of collagen extract from jellyfish. The mositurizing effects were measured by the caspase 14 expression, filaggrin, hyaluronan synthase-3 (HAS-3), aquaporin-3 (AQP-3) and desmocollin (DSC). As a results, effect of caspase 14 mRNA expression of collagen extract are similar to that of retinoic acid (RA) which is a reference control. And the collagen extract showed inhibitory of filaggrin, HAS-3, AQP-3 and DSC mRNA expression of 211.7%, 139.9%, 212.5% and 116.8% respectively, at the concentration of 2%. Therefore, our study suggested that jellyfish collagen extract has considerable potential as a cosmetics ingredient with moisturizing effect.

Key Words

Nemopilema nomurai, collagen, moisturizing, jellyfish, cosmetics

남진주 Jin-ju Nam , 김연준 Youn Joon Kim , 강승현 Seunghyun Kang

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Abstract

Steroid hormone, glucocorticoid (GC) has strong anti-inflammatory effects by binding to glucocorticoid receptor (GR) inhibiting the expression of inflammatory genes. Therefore, agents that activate the GR have been used for the treatment of dermatitis. However, the agents have side effects such as skin barrier dysfunction and dermal atrophy, inducing skin damage as well as skin aging. It has been reported that GC is activated by 11 beta- hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 (11β-HSD1) to increase the activity of the GR. This study aimed to identify natural materials that can effectively inhibit dexamethasone. We found that alpinetin isolated from Alpinia katsumadai extract has a significant effect on this. Alpinetin not only inhibited 11β-HSD1 expression, but also suppressed the increase of phosphorylated GR and cortisol concentration. Alpinetin also recovered collagen expression in dexamethasone-treated dermal fibroblasts, and the reduction of dermal thickness in dexamethasnone-treated 3D skin model. These results suggest that alpinetin prevents skin aging induced by the increase of 11β-HSD1 expression.

Key Words

alpinetin, 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1, cortisol, glucocorticoid receptor, skin aging

송혜진 Hye Jin Song , 김미선 Mi-sun Kim , 이홍구 Hong Gu Lee , 진무현 Mu Hyun Jin , 이상화 Sang Hwa Lee

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Abstract

Skin basement membrane (BM) is a specialized structure that binds dermis and epidermis of the skin and plays an important role in maintaining skin structure. Structural change and destruction of BM is reported to appear due to UV exposure and aging, which may contribute to skin aging including wrinkle formation and a decrease in elasticity of the skin. One of the key components of the BM is laminin-332 (LN-332), and is a major contributor to epidermal- dermal attachment. In this study, we elucidated the effects of Meladrium firmum hexane fraction (MFHF) on LN-332 expression in HaCaT, a human keratinocyte cell line. Quantitative real-time PCR (RT-PCR) and immunoblot analysis revealed that MFHF induced upregulation of LN-332 gene and protein expression. Next, cells were treated with p38 MAPK inhibitor (SB202190) prior to MFHF treatment to analyze the signaling pathway contributing to LN-332 expression. The mRNA and protein levels of LN-332 expression were suppressed completely by pretreatment with p38 MAPK inhibitor. Furthermore, MFHF also increased the mRNA level of collagen type VII and integrin α6 of skin BM component. These results collectively suggest that MFHF may have potential as an effective agent to stimulate the synthesis of BM components, and could be used to improve phenomenon of skin aging ascribed to the structural and functional impairments of BM in aged human skin.

Key Words

basement membrane, laminin-332, Melandrium firmum, skin aging

김승희 Seung-heui Kim , 장혜진 Hye-jin Jang

DOI:

Abstract

This study attempted to investigate the possibility of the use of Morinda citrifolia (MC) as a cosmetic ingredient from its physiological activities such as antioxidant activity, cytotoxicity and anti-aging effect. MC is a tropical plant that has been used as traditional polynesian foods and medicines for over two thousand years. It has been reported that this shrub can improve antimicrobial, anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory effects and strengthen an immune system. The in vitro antioxidant activity of MC was performed to see the DPPH scavenging activity by measuring total polyphenol content and total flavonoid content. As a result, a lack of any cytotoxicity was confirmed in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) cell. When MC extract at a concentration of over 50 ∼ 100 μg/mL was added, MMP-1 expression considerably diminished. In an in vivo test, in addition, cream containing MC extract was prepared and applied to a total of 22 women in their 30 ∼ 50s in ages in the morning and in the evening for four weeks. Changes in keratin, melanin index, pore, skin color and wrinkles under the naked eyes were then comparatively measured. Keratin levels slightly increased in the control group but decreased in the experimental group. In addition, wrinkles diminished in the experimental group. This study found that MC extract controls many MMP-1 related mechanisms with great potential for use as a natural ingredient of anti-aging cosmetics.

Key Words

antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, MMP-1, cosmetics

신서연 Seo Yeon Shin , 김하늘 Ha Neul Kim , 강세원 Se Won Kang , 조홍석 Hong Suk Cho , 김은지 Eun Ji Kim , 박선화 Sun Hwa Park , 박경 Kyung Mok Park

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Abstract

Hyssopus officinalis is a herbaceous plant of the genus Hyssopus. Due to its properties as an antiseptic, cough reliever and expectorant, it is commonly used as an aromatic herb and medicinal plant. This study was performed to investigate the anti-oxidative and anti-melanogenic properties of Hyssopus officinalis extracts (HE) using in vitro assays and cell culture systems. As a result, HE showed higher DPPH and ABTS radicals scavenging activity in a dose-dependent manner. Also, HE inhibited the prodution of intracellular ROS and melanin contents in B16F10 melanoma cell as well as tyrosinase activity. We also found that HE inhibit mRNA expression of MITF, tyrosinase and TRP-2 gene. These findings suggest that HE may be beneficial for preventing oxidative damage and melanogenesis of skin.

Key Words

antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, B16F10, Hysspus officinalis, tyrosinase