연제영 Jae Young Yeon , 홍승덕 Seung Deok Hong , 최세범 Se Bum Choi , 김타곤 Ta Gon Kim , 이청희 Cheong Hee Lee , 이상길 Sang Gil Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we have investigated the stability of sunscreens based on the solubility of organic UV absorbers in the oil and sun protection efficacy of the products composed of a combination of organic UV absorbers to develop more stable and efficient sunscreen products. Results showed that the solubility of the organic UV absorber and stability were varied depending on the type, storage conditions and concentration of oil. It was also observed from the products in the emulsion type. Various UV absorbances were determined to the products composed of the combination of organic UV absorbers. In some combinations, a synergistic effect was observed to make an increase in absorbance compared to a single component. In other cases, specific synergistic effect was displayed only when combined with the particular component. In addition, the storage condition also affected the sunscreen efficacy. In conclusion, this study confirmed that there are various factors which could affect the UV-blocking efficiency of sunscreen products.

Key Words

organic UV absorber, sun protection efficacy, stability, solubility, combination

이수진 Su Jin Lee , 김정아 Jung A Kim , 강내규 Nae Gyu Kang , 박선규 Sun Gyoo Park , 이천구 Cheon Koo Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Organogels are semi-solid systems that consist of an apolar solvent as the liquid phase within a three-dimensional networked structure. In this study, we developed a stable and skin penetration-enhanced Lecithin Organogel (LO) containing genistein, which is one of the poorly soluble active ingredients in both polar and apolar phase. After screening of various components (type of gelators, organic and aqueous phase), hydrogenated lecithin (HL), sunflower oil (SO), dipropylene glycol (DPG), and polyethylene glycol (PEG) were mainly used in this formulation. Phase ternary diagram was employed for optimization of the composition in the LO. The formulated LO were evaluated for its organoleptic characteristics, stability, pH, rheology, phase transition temperatures, microscopic analysis and skin penetration. The optimized stable LO system can be utilized as an effective and stable cosmetic formulation that can carry poorly soluble active ingredients at high concentration for topical dermal delivery.

Key Words

cosmetic, organogel, lecithin, skin penetration, genistein

이상길 Sang Gil Lee , 김기중 Ki Jung Kim , 김영호 Young Ho Kim , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo , 이동규 Dong Kyu Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Once powder base makeup products are applied to the skin, the products are formed a film and attached on the skin for 8 to 12 hours. The makeup film is deformed by secretions such as sweat and sebum secreted from the skin. Thus, durability of the film is an important quality factor in the makeup and its evaluation is also important. In this study, characteristics of the semi-finished powder products such as water absorption, oil absorption, water repellent and oil repellent were evaluated in a number of ways. Also, simple methods, which are not affected by evaluation conditions such as a difference between sweat and sebum secretion, temperature and humidity, were examined to predict the durability of the products. We measured water absorption, oil absorption, water repellent and oil-repellent properties of semifinished product by tablet, capillary and dipping method and then compared with the data of color difference meter and ROBO skin analyzer. Results showed that the durability of powder base makeup products was associated with more oil absorption and water-repellent characteristics than water absorption and oil-repellent. Oil absorption characteristics by tablet and capillary method and water-repellent characteristics by dipping method provides a simple and quick method to precdict the durability of the makeup products.

Key Words

durability evaluation, water absorption, oil absorption, water repellent, oil repellent

정삼주 Sam Ju Jung , 황영숙 Young Sook Hwang , 최채만 Chae Man Choi , 박애숙 Ae Suk Park , 김수언 Su Un Kim , 김현정 Hyun Jung Kim , 김정헌 Jung Hun Kim , 정권 Kweon Jung

DOI:

Abstract

This study was conducted to determine 10 preservatives (benzyl alcohol (BAl), phenoxyethanol (PE), benzoic acid (BA), sorbic acid (SA), methyl paraben (MP), ethyl paraben (EP), propyl paraben (PP), isopropyl paraben (IPP), butyl paraben (BP), isobutyl paraben (IBP)) levels in 125 cosmetics (n = 125) for children by the simultaneous analysis of HPLC. The detection ranges were as follows; 0.01 ~ 0.91% (n = 35) for PE, 0.01 ~ 0.48% (n = 28) for BA, 0.01 ~ 0.78% (n = 9) for BAl, 0.01 ~ 0.11% (n = 3) for SA, 0.04 ~ 0.21% (n = 8) for MP, 0.02 ~ 0.09% (n = 8) for PP, and 0.04% (n = 1) for EP. The order of detection rates was cleanser (63%) > cream (48%) > sunscreen (46%) > lotion (38%) > oil (13%). At least one of target preservatives was contained in 50% (63/125) of samples and the content of the detected preservatives was within maximum allowed amount established by KFDA. Phenoxyethanol and benzoic acid were used more frequently than paraoxybenzoate esters (parabens) in cosmetics for children and the detected parabens was mainly the mixture of methyl paraben and propyl paraben.

Key Words

preservatives, phenoxyethanol, paraben, HPLC, cosmetics

류종성 Jong Seong Ryu , 조환일 Hwan Il Cho , 원지희 Ji Hee Won , 전미나 Mi Na Jeon , 권오선 Oh Sun Kwon , 원보미 Bo Mi Won , 임준만 Jun Man Lim , 이상화 Sang Hwa Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Skin aging is the phenomena finally expressed on the skin surface and related to the changes in the microstructure of the skin texture. Which is resulted in wrinkle formation and uneven tone of skin and so on. In this study, the synergy effect of Cedrol and a collagen-derived peptide in type Ⅲ collagen synthesis was evaluated by in vitro test. The physiological skin state of 22 female volunteers was measured after using the cosmetics for 4 weeks. Results showed that Cedrol and a collagen-derived peptide had the excellent synergy effect in type Ⅲ collagen synthesis. The cosmetics improved skin microrelief, star configurations, skin gloss, skin tone, hydration and elasticity except skin lightening. In conclusion, this study proved that Cedrol and collagen-derived peptide had the synergy effect of type Ⅲ collagen synthesis in the cell level and cosmetics with those was improved skin aging in human volunteer test.

Key Words

anti-aging, cedrol, collagen-derived peptide, skin texture, star configurations

박성하 Sung Ha Park , 정현정 Jeong Hyeon Jeong , 박병준 Byoung Jun Park , 정태화 Tae Hwa Jeong

DOI:

Abstract

To develop a new anti-inflammation agent for cosmetics, we investigated the anti-inflammatory activity of Fallopia sachalinensis RonseDecr. fruit extracts (FSR). FSR inhibited the pre-inflammatory cytokines (1L-1β, IL-6, TNF-α) and reduced NO production of RAW 264.7 macrophage cells in a dose-dependent manner and decreased the activity to about 51% at a concentration of 100 μ g/mL. FSR suppressed not only the mRNA expression of iNOS and COX-2, but also the protein expression of iNOS and COX-2 in macrophage. The results suggested that FSR has considerable potential as a cosmetics ingredient with an anti-inflammatory effect.

Key Words

Fallopia sachalinensis RonseDecr., anti-inflammatory

구정현 Jung Hyun Goo , 이지은 Ji Eun Lee , 명철환 Cheol Hwan Myung , 박종일 Jong Il Park , 황재성 Jae Sung Hwang

DOI:

Abstract

Melanosome, the pigment granule in melanocyte, determines the color of skin when it moves into the keratinocyte. Inhibition of melanosome transfer from melanocyte to keratinocyte results in skin depigmentation. Protease activated receptor-2 (PAR-2) is involved in signal transduction systems via cell membrane and increases the melasome transfer when it is activated by cleavage of their extracellular amino acid sequence by trypsin or by a peptide such as SLIGKV. Here, we showed that lobaric acid inhibited PAR-2 activation and affected the mobilization of Ca²⁺. The uptake of fluorescent microspheres and isolated melanosomes from melan-a melanocytes to keratinocytes induced by SLIGKV were inhibited by lobaric acid. Also, confocal microscopy studies illustrated a decreased melanosome transfer to keratinocytes in melanocyte-keratinocyte co-culture system by lobaric acid. In addition, lobaric acid induced visible skin lightening effect in human skin tissue culture model, melanoderm^Ⓡ. Our data suggest that lobaric acid could be an effective skin lightening agent that works via regulation of phagocytic activity of keratinocytes.

Key Words

PAR-2, melanosome transfer, keratinocyte phagocytosis, skin lightening, lobaric acid

김남영 Nam Young Kim , 이현용 Hyeon Yong Lee

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, cosmeceutical activities of the co-cultures of both lactic acid bacteria isolated from the hands of women, Lactobacillus rhamnosus (L. rhamnosus) and Lactobacillus paracasei (L. paracasei) were first reported: For whitening and anti-wrinkle activities, the co-culture showed the highest tyrosinase inhibition of 20.68%, compared L. paracasei and L. rhamnosus. The co-culture also showed the highest inhibition of melanin synthesis as 63.7%. In observing the anti-wrinkle activities of the co-culture, it generated only 3726.3 pg/mL of matrixmetalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production when 13613.5 pg/mL and 13012.0 pg/mL of MMP-1 production were estimated from L. rhamnosus and L. paracasei. Besides these, the extract from the co-culture yielded higher collagen production as 380.7 ng/mL, compared to 323.4 ng/mL and 304.1 ng/mL from L. paracasei and L. rhamnosus. These results indicate that the co-culture of both lactic acid could improve its cosmetic activities. This hypothesis was also confirmed that the co-culture of both bacteria showed strong antioxidant activities of DPPH free radical scavenging while the extract of L. rhamnosus and L. paracasei.

Key Words

Lactobacillus rhamnosus, Lactobacillus paracasei, anti-skin wrinkle effect, skin whitening effect

정용태 Yong Tae Jeong , 강민주 Min Ju Kang , 김진희 Jin Hee Kim

DOI:

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to investigate anti-melanogenesis effects of mulberry seed extracts (MSE). MSE inhibited melanogenesis in melan-a cells at 10 μ g/mL without cytotoxicity. Also, MSE decreased tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1) protein expression in the melan-a cells. To identify the signaling pathway of MSE, the ability of MSE to influence extracellular signal-regulated protein kinase (ERK) activation was investigated. MSE induced ERK protein expression in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, MSE presented inhibition of the body pigmentation in vivo zebrafish model. These results suggest that MSE may be an effective anti-melanogenesis agent regulating the expression of ERK protein and melanogenic enzymes.

Key Words

Mulberry seed, melanogenesis, melan-a, zebrafish, ethanol extract

강희철 Hee Cheol Kang , 차미연 Mi Yeon Cha , 김재영 Jae Young Kim

DOI:

Abstract

Herbal plant extracts are good resources to find functional compounds for cosmetic ingredient. In this study, the extract of Areca semen (A. semen) was studied for melanogenesis inhibition and antioxidant activity. The results showed that ethyl acetate fraction of A. semen contained phenolic contents, 301.35 ± 0.88 μg/mg, and exhibited potent antioxidant activity with IC50 value of 1.02 ± 0.07 μg/mL. Further, FRAP value exhibited potent antioxidant activity with 9.07 ± 0.36 mM. Disk diffusion assay was performed for antibacterial activity. Ethyl acetate fraction of A. semen showed antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) and Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis) at 80 μg/mL, whereas it showed no significant antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli (E. coli). The results of cell viability indicated that ethyl acetate fraction did not show cytotoxicity to B16/F1 cells at 80 μg/mL and showed significant cytotoxicity at 100 μg/mL of concentration and showed inhibition of melanin synthesis inhibitory, 29.78 ± 0.31% at 80 μg/mL. Furthermore, mRNA expressions of tyrosinase and MITF were decreased after treatment with ethyl acetate fraction in a dose-dependent manner. As a result, the ethyl acetate fraction of A. semen could be considered as potential as whitening agents.

Key Words

antioxidant, whitening, Areca semen, cosmetics, antibacterial

김명기 Myong Ki Kim , 조석철 Seok-cheol Cho , 남개원 Gaewon Nam

DOI:

Abstract

Hyperpigmentation on face is a highly anxiety-producing symptom, especially for women from the aspect of beauty. Pigmentation of the skin is related to the amount of melanin that provides protection against UV radiation. In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy is a non-invasive imaging tool allowing visualization of the skin without tissue alteration, by placing a microscopy directly on the living skin. The aim of this study was to develop the new evaluation method of whitening effects using in vivo reflectance confocal microscopy and to validate other instruments for measuring skin colors, and UV-induced hyperpigmentation was elicited on the inside skin of the forearm. It suggested that the new method for whitening effects using the confocal microscopy was useful to evaluate the de-pigmentation products and to easy for understanding to customers.

Key Words

non-invasive measurement, pigmentation, whitening and confocal microscopy

유차영 Cha Young Yoo , 김시윤 Si Yun Kim , 박정원 Jung Won Park , 성수안 Soo An Sung , 김다애 Da Ae Kim , 박지현 Jee Hyun Park , 현송화 Song Hua Xuan , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we investigated the antioxidative effects of brown seaweed Ecklonia cava extract and its subfractions. All experiments were performed with 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction of E. cava. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities (FSC₅₀) of ethyl acetate fraction (FSC₅₀ = 6.98 μg/mL) and aglycone fraction (7.03 μg/mL) are similar to that of (+)-α-tocopherol (8.98 μg/mL) which is a reference control. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity (total antioxidant capacity, OSC₅₀) of the aglycone fraction (OSC₅₀ = 14.48 μg/mL) on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay was the strongest among all extract and fractions. However, all samples showed lower antioxidant activities than that of L-ascorbic acid (6.88 μg/mL) known as a powerful antioxidant. The protective effect of 50% ethanol extract on the ¹O₂-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes was dependent on the concentration from 5 to 50 μg/mL. Both ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction showed strong cellular protective activities at 10 μg/mL, where the cellular protective effects (τ₅₀) of each fraction were recorded 442.0 min and 539.9 min, respectively. Three kinds of extract/fractions of E. cava showed much greater cellular protective activities at 10 μg/mL than that of liposoluble antioxidant (+)-α-tocopherol (40.6 min) which is a reference control. These results suggest E. cava extracts and its fractions can be applied as an antioxidant ingredient in a field of cosmetics.

Key Words

antioxidant, reactive oxygen species, brown algae, Ecklonia cava, phlorotannin