남진주 Jin-ju Nam , 이경은 Kyung-eun Lee , 박지은 Ji-eun Park , 문성준 Seong-joon Moon , 염종경 Jong-kyung Youm

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Abstract

Ultraviolet B (UVB) is a primary environmental factor that induces adverse effects on skin such as photoaging, skin burn and cancer. UVB also increases the expression of 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 (11β-HSD1), which converts inactive cortisone to active cortisol in response to a variety of stressors in target tissues. Thus, we have screened new herbal extracts that suppress 11β-HSD1 expression induced by UVB in human dermal fibroblasts. We also investigated whether Trapa japonica (TJ) extract and its fractions inhibit UVB-induced photoaging in Hs68 cells and 3D skin model. Results showed that TJ extract inhibited the increase of 11β-HSD1 expression in UVB-exposed Hs68 cells significantly. TJ extract and its fractions not only inhibited 11β-HSD1 expression, but also suppressed the increase of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, 3, 9) and proinflammatory cytokines (IL-6, 8) in UVB-irritated Hs68 cells. TJ extract also inhibited MMP-1 expression in UVB-irritated 3D skin model. In addition, TJ extract recovered UVB-induced decreases of epidermal thickness and PCNA-positive cells in 3D skin model. Taken together, these results suggest that TJ extract and its fractions inhibit UVB-induced skin photoaging by interfering with 11β-HSD1 and MMPs.

Key Words

Trapa japonica extract, photoaging, 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1, ultraviolet B, matrix metalloproteinases

황영숙 Young Sook Hwang , 최채만 Chae Man Choi , 정삼주 Sam Ju Chung , 박애숙 Ae Sook Park , 김현정 Hyun Jung Kim , 김정헌 Jung Hun Kim , 정권 Kwon Jung

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Abstract

This study is aimed to provide the primary data about safety of cosmetics products using indirect preference of korean cosmetics customer and numerical comparison of applied area. For this study, we collected 9,879 cosmetics products which were inspected in cosmetics research team from January, 2010 to December, 2012. The domestic cosmetics was 645 cases (6.5%) and Imported cosmetics was 9,234 cases (93.5%). As manufacturing country, the France has 4,342 cases (44.0%) and the next ranking were like those, Germany 1,637 cases (16.6%), U.S.A 1,476 cases (14.9%), Republic of Korea 645 cases (6.5%), Italy 557 cases (5.6%), and etc 1,222 cases (12.4%). By the year, the cases of test cosmetics have decreased from 3,784 cases (2010), 3,394 cases (2011) to 2,701 cases (2012), the relative ratio of common cosmetics part was drop in but the other group (functional cosmetics and hair dye related products) was increased. The largest market share product was Skin care 5,470 cases (55.4%) and the next order was like those, Make up 1,908 cases (19.3%), Hand & Foot 1,026 cases (10.4%), Hair Care 616 cases (6.2%), Bath 361 cases (3.7%), and etc 498 cases (5.0%). In domestic cosmetics, the greatest proportion was Skin care and the others were Hair Care > Makeup > Hand & Foot > Bath, but the proportion was evidently changed in imported cosmetics, Skin care > Makeup > Hand & Foot > Hair Care > Bath. It is necessary to set the priority of the international quality standards to identify trends from domestic consumers directly or indirectly. Compare the ratio of category and human application parts from domestic and imported cosmetics, we utilize leverage as the basis for future-oriented cosmetic safety.

Key Words

imported cosmetics, quality test, category, safety

이하연 Ha Youn Lee , 김영훈 Young Hoon Kim , 엄선영 Sun Young Um , 정욱순 Uk Sun Jung , 장문식 Moon Sik Chang , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

This study was aimed to investigate skin whitening effects of Nomura’s jellyfish (Nemopilema nomurai) hydrolyzed extracts (NHE). The extracts were prepared through the hydrolysis of N. nomurai using commercial proteolytic enzymes such as Protamex, Alcalase, Flavourzyme and Neutrase with optimum pHs (pH 5-8) at 55 ℃. Their whitening activities were examined from the inhibition of melanin synthesis using B16-F1 cell lines. Among the examined samples, Neutrase-treated extract (N-NHE) showed the most significant inhibition effect on melanin synthesis by 89.9% at a concentration of 100 μg/mL. This sample decreased the expression of tyrosinase and TRP-1 (tyrosinase related protein-1) proteins as well. These results suggested the potential application of NHE as whitening ingredients in cosmetic preparation.

Key Words

Nemopilema nomurai, melanin synthesis inhibition, hydrolized extract, Neutrase, tyrosinase

박창민 Chang-min Park , 한나경 Na-kyeong Han , 정민석 Min-seok Joung , 백기엽 Kee-yoeup Paek , 최종완 Jong-wan Choi

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Abstract

In this study, the shoot clumps extract of tissue-cultured Raoulia australis using the bioreactor culture system was tested for use a natural cosmetic ingredient. Tissue-cultured R. australis shoot clumps extract was tested anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory activity for a cosmetic application. R. australis is a wild herbaceous plant of the asteraceae growing in New Zealand and Australia. Previous studies have reported anti-viral activity of the inhibitory effects for the growth of viruses induced meningitis, bronchitis and respiratory diseases but other biological effects are unknown. The shoot clumps extract of tissue-cultured R. australis showed higher anti-oxidant effect and anti-inflammatory effect than the natural R. australis extract. In DPPH, NBT and ABTS assay, the shoot clumps extract of tissue-cultured R. australis enhanced radical scavenging activity (up to 10∼25% at 50 μL/mL) more than the natural R. australis extract. Also, the shoot clumps extract of tissue-cultured R. australis inhibited expression of iNOS and COX-2 protein in LPS-stimulated Raw 264.7 macrophages more than the natural R. australis extract. From this study, the shoot clumps extract of tissue-cultured R. australis displayed strong possibility as a new natural cosmetic ingredient for skin-care products.

Key Words

Raoulia australis, anti-oxidation, biological activity, anti-inflammation, shoot clumps

김일현 Il Hyun Kim , 류대훈 De Hun Ryu , 김영수 Young Soo Kim , 정은선 Eun Sun Jung , 박덕훈 Deok Hoon Park

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Abstract

In this study, we developed a HPLC method for the separation and analysis of methylparaben and p-anisic acid, which are commonly used as a synthetic preservative and natural preservative, respectively. Methylparaben and p-anisic acid have same molecular weight (152.15 g/mol), similar structure and same maximum absorption wavelength (250 nm), thus they showed same retention time (RT) value (13.3 min) in HPLC experiment. We observed that two substances are separated on C18 column after methylparaben was derivatized selectively through the acetylation reaction. Instead, RT of the acetylated methylparaben was moved to 23.9 min from 13.3 min. The average retention time was 23.9 ± 0.1 min and peak area values was 5042882 ± 4778. In addition it showed a high linearity in the calibration curve with a correlation coefficient (R²) of 0.9999658. Detection and quantitation limits were 1.47 μg/mL and 4.44 μg/mL, respectively. In conclusion, the developed method can be useful for separation and analysis of preservatives with similar structure in cosmetic fields.

Key Words

methylparaben, p-anisic acid, high performance liquid chromatography, Acetylation, preservatives

이정희 Jung Hee Lee , 김종임 Jong Im Kim , 최화정 Hwa Jung Choi , 이정현 Jung Hyun Lee

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Abstract

To identify new active anti-wrinkle ingredients, this study investigated the anti-wrinkle effects of Schizandra chinensis Baillon fermented with Lactobacillus plantarum (SCF) by assessment of cytotoxicity of human dermal fibroblast, collagen biosynthesis, matrix metalloproteinase-I (MMP-1) inhibition and elastase inhibition. S. chinensis was fermented with L. rhamnosus for 1 day at 37 ℃. The cytotoxicity of SCF was evaluated by a cytopathic effect reduction method. Effects on collagen biosynthesis and matrix metalloproteinase-I (MMP-1) of SCF were evaluated by previous reported method using procollagen type-IC peptide EIA kit and Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 Biotrack activity Assay Kit, respectively. Elastase inhibition assay was conducted by reaction of enzyme and substrate using N-Suc-(Ala)3-nitroanilide as the substrate. As the results, SCF didn’t show cytotoxicity against human dermal fibroblast at concentration of 100 μg/mL. Also, SCF was increased collagen synthesis and showed inhibitory effect of MMP-1 (p < 0.05). In the elastase inhibition assay, the IC50 of SCF was 36.4 μg/mL. Therefore, our results indicated that SCF possesses anti-wrinkle effects and can be used practically for anti-wrinkle care of skin.

Key Words

Collagen biosynthesis, Matrix metalloproteinase-I, Schizandra chinensis Baillon fermented with Lactobacillus plantarum, Elastase, Anti-wrinkle

강내규 Nae Gyu Kang , 곽택종 Taek Jong Kwak , 김정아 Jung A Kim , 김태훈 Tae Hoon Kim , 문태기 Tae Kee Moon , 박선규 Sun Gyoo Park , 송다영 Da Young Song , 이수진 Su Jin Lee , 장민열 Min Youl Chang , 장희정 Hee Jung Jang , 추정하 Jung Ha Choo , 정수나 Su Na Jeong

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Abstract

The skin is an organ that covers the outside of the human body. And it regulates body temperature, performs sensory function, deliveries the drug, and represents the abnormality of the internal organs. For these reasons, people have been expressing the condition of the body based on the state of the skin of the face to detect sign of health, “you look well”, “face with vitality”. Depending on the degree of aging and the environment, it is a fact that skin color, skin texture, moisture and firmness could be different. In particular, the color of the skin acts as a factor that affects to determine the subjective impression such as beauty and charm. We could expect consumer’s demand through the market of whitening cosmetics and skin treatment. However, existing most of the cosmetics focus on improving whiteness. The number of studies that focused on skin color is not enough. In this study, we found out the skin color condition by carrying out surveys of 100 women between 30s and 40s. Our study would be very useful to develop new cosmetic products and to satisfy customer’s needs.

Key Words

skin, color, complexion, survey, preference

김상진 Sang-jin Kim , 성낙도 Nack-do Sung

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Abstract

The following conclusion was made from the 2D-QSAR model for the tyrosinase inhibitory activity according to the variation of the substituents R1 and R2 in analogues of compound 2-[(2,6-dioxocyclohexyl)methyl]cyclohexane- 1,3-dione (1-23). The best optimized 2D-QSAR model was Obs.pI50 = -0.295 (± 0.031)TDM -0.120 (± 0.014 )DMZ + 0.135 (± 0.050)DMX. R2 + 6.382 (± 0.17), and the correlation (r2 = 0.905) of which was greater than its predictability (q2 = 0.843). The magnitude of the effect of tyrosinase inhibitory activities was in order of TDM > DMX.R2 ≥ DMZ, and it tended to increase as the hydrophobicity of substrate molecule (ClogP > 0) as well as the steric favor of substituent R1 increased. The analysis of the model implies that inhibitory activity of substrate molecule will increase as DMX.R2 (Dipole moment X component of R2-substituent) increases, while TDM (Total Dipole Moment) and DMZ (Dipole Moment of Z-Component) decrease. As such, it is deemed feasible to conclude, that in order to increase the inhibitory effect, it would be rather desirable to replace the polar groups within the molecules with non-polar functional groups.

Key Words

2-[(2,6-dioxocyclohexyl)methyl]cyclohexane-1,3-diones, Tyrosinase inhibitory activity, 2D-QSAR model, Total dipole moment, Clog^P

정유민 Yoo Min Jeong , 김호재 Ho Jae Kim , 이수현 Su Hyun Lee , 장도윤 Do Yun Jang , 최예찬 Yae Chan Choi , 민나영 Na Young Min , 공봉주 Bong Ju Gong , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects and component analysis for the extracts of Rumex acetosa L. were investigated. All experiments were performed with 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction obtained from dried R. acetosa L.. Free radical scavenging activities (1,1-diphenyl-2- picrylhydrazyl) size of, in the order of aglycone fraction > ethyl acetate fraction > 50% ethanol extract, aglycone fraction (45.10 μg/mL) showed the highest radical scavenging activity. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity (total antioxidant capacity, OSC₅₀) on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system was also, in the order of ethyl acetate fraction> aglycone fraction> 50% ethyl acetate fraction, ethyl acetate fraction (2.68 μg/mL) was shown a great antioxidant capacity. The total antioxidant capacity of the ethyl acetate fraction was found to be greater than L-ascorbic acid, known as a typical hydrophilic antioxidant (6.88 μg/mL). The cellular protective effects of R. acetosa L. extracts on the ¹O₂-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes were exhibited at all concentration-dependent (1 ∼ 25 μg/mL). Especially, aglycone fraction (τ₅₀, 104.80 min) in 25 μg/mL showed the most protective effect among extracts. Components of the ethyl acetate fraction obtained from R. acetosa L. extracts were analyzed by TLC, HPLC chromatogram, LC/ESI-MS/MS. As a result, the ethyl acetate fraction contained several flavonoids, such as orientin, isoorientin, vitexin, isovitexin. These results indicate that the R. acetosa L. extracts can be used as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skins exposed to UV radiation by quenching and/or scavenging ¹O₂ and other ROS. Thus, the extracts of R. acetosa L. could be applicable to new anti-aging cosmeceutical ingredients.

Key Words

R. acetosa L., antioxidative activity, photoaging, component analysis, cosmeceutical

장윤희 Yun-hee Chang , 추정하 Jung-ha Choo , 이소영 So-young Lee , 김태윤 Tae-yoon Kim , 진무현 Mu-hyun Jin , 장민열 Min-youl Chang , 이상화 Sang-hwa Lee , 이천구 Cheon-koo Lee , 박선규 Sun-gyoo Park

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Abstract

To develop an effective skin whitening agent for cosmetics, we isolated cucurbitacin B from Cucumis sativus L. which has been used as traditional skin lighting regimen by the bioactivity-guided fractionation, and investigated the inhibitory effects of cucurbitacin B on melanogenesis. At a non-cytotoxic concentration, cucurbitacin B reduced melanin contents of B16F1 melanoma cells in a dose-dependent manner. Cucurbitacin B did not directly inhibit mushroom tyrosinase activity, but it inhibited intracellular tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner. Its inhibitory mechanism on melanin biosynthesis was further assessed, and we found that cucurbitacin B significantly decreased the protein level of tyrosinase, a major melanogenic enzymes and MITF, a master transcriptional factor of melanogenesis. In addition, cucurbitacin B increased the expression of WW domain-containing oxidoreductase (WWOX) which is known to function as tumor repressor and inhibits Wnt/β-catenin pathway. Collectively, these results suggest that cucuritacin B from C. sativus could be used as an active ingredient for skin whitening.

Key Words

cucurbitacin B, melanogenesis, tyrosinase, mitf, wwox

이은영 Eun Young Lee , 전지혜 Ji Hye Jeon , 이민호 Min Ho Lee , 이승호 Sunghou Lee , 김영호 Young Ho Kim , 강상진 Sangjin Kang

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Abstract

Corticotropin-releasing factor (CRF) is involved in the stress response and there is increasing evidence that stress influences skin disease such as hair loss. In cultured human hair follicles, CRF inhibits hair shaft elongation, induces premature regression and promotes the apoptosis of hair matrix keratinocytes. We investigated whether CRF influences the dermal papilla cells (DPC) that play pivotal roles in hair growth and cycling. Human DPCs were treated with CRF, adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH) and cortisol, key stress hormones along the hypothalamic-pituitary -adrenal (HPA) axis for 1-24 h. Interestingly, CRF modulated the expression of cytokines related to hair growth (KGF, Wnt5a, TGFβ-2, Nexin) and increased cAMP production in cultured DPCs. CRF receptors were down-regulated by negative feedback systems. Pretreatment of CRF receptor antagonists or protein kinase A (PKA) inhibitor prevented the CRF-induced modulation. Since the CRF induces proopiomelanocortin (POMC) expression through the cAMP/PKA pathway, we analyzed POMC mRNA. CRF stimulated POMC expression in cultured human DPCs, yet we were unable to detect ACTH levels by western blot. These results indicate that CRF operates within DPCs through CRF receptors along the classical CRF signaling pathway and CRF receptor antagonists could serve as potential therapeutic and cosmetic agents for stress-induced hair loss.

Key Words

CRF, cytokine, dermal papilla cell, hair loss, stress

공봉주 Bong Ju Kong , 한성수 Sung Soo Han , 하지훈 Ji Hoon Ha , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects for the extracts of purple sweet potato (Ipomoea batatas L. Lam.) were investigated. The purple sweet potato was extracted with 70% ethanol and the ethyl acetate fraction was obtained from the extracts. The yields of extract and ethyl acetate fraction were 39.2% and 3.49% per dried powder, respectively. To confirm the antioxidative effects of the extracts, free radical scavenging activities (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl), total antioxidant capacity by luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay and the protective effects against reactive oxygen species (ROS) in erythrocytes were measured. Free radical scavenging activities (FSC₅₀) of the 70% ethanol extract and ethyl acetate fraction were 90.16 μg/mL and 7.69 μg/mL, respectively. The free radical scavenging activity of ethyl acetate fraction was higher than that of (+)-α-tocopherol (8.98 μg/mL). Total antioxidant capacities (OSC₅₀) of the 70% ethanol extract and ethyl acetate fraction were 5.75 μg/mL and 1.92 μg/mL, respectively. The capacity of ethyl acetate fraction was similar to L-ascorbic acid, known as a prominent water soluble antioxidant (1.50 μg/mL). The cellular protective effects of the ethyl acetate fractions on the ¹O₂-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes were increased in a concentration dependent manner (5 ∼ 50 μg/mL). The τ50 value in 5 μg/mL was 45.6 min which was higher than that of (+)-α-tocopherol in all concentrations. These results indicate that the ethyl acetate fraction of purple sweet potato (I. batatas) has the excellent antioxidative capacity and could be applicable to anti-aging cosmeceutical ingredients for skin aging inhibition.

Key Words

Ipomoea batatas L. Lam., anthocyanin, antioxidant activity, DPPH