김원종 Won Jong Kim , 강국현 Kuk Hyoun Kang , 이기용 Gi Yong Lee , 김태원 Tae Won Kim , 최종완 Jong Wan Choi , 이동규 Dong Kyu Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Due to the high UV light scattering effect of Zinc oxide (ZnO), it is frequently used in sunscreen skincare products. Recently ZnO coated with silica has been used in cosmetics to improve UV protection, texture, decreased photocatalytic activity, dispersibility and stability of the skin care product. In this study, we developed a ZnO composite powder coated with silica for the future application to skincare products to block UV rays that could cause photoaging. To improve consumer’s satisfaction rating, we used ZnO microparticles which are widely used in the cosmetics industry. The silica was coated using hydrothermal method with sodium silicate and acid hydrolysis. UV protection of the composite powder was analyzed by UV-Vis and in-vitro test and the advantages for practical use of this powder as a skincare product were determined.

Key Words

zinc oxide, UV protection, sodium silicate, silica, hydrothermal method

김은희 Eun Hee Kim , 조완구 Wan Goo Cho

DOI:

Abstract

Oil-in-water nanoemulsions were prepared in the system of water/Span 80-Tween 80/long-chain paraffin oil via the PIC (phase inversion composition) method. With the increase of preparation temperature from 30 ℃ to 80 ℃, the diameter of emulsion droplets decreased from 120 nm to 40 nm, proving the formation of nanoemulsions. By varying the HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) of mixed surfactants, we found that there was an optimum HLB around 12.0 ~ 13.0 corresponding to the minimum droplet size. The viscosity of nanoemulsions clearly increased with droplet volume fraction, f, but the droplet size slightly increased. Significantly, at φ ≤ 0.3, the size distribution of nanoemulsions kept constant more than 2 months. These results proved that the viscous paraffin oil can hardly be dispersed by the PIC method at 30 ℃, but the increase in preparation temperature makes it possible for producing monodisperse nanoemulsions. Once the nanoemulsion is produced, the stability against Ostwald ripening is outstanding due to the extremely low solubility of the liquid paraffin oil in the continuous phase. The highly stable nanoemulsions are of great importance in cosmetic applications.

Key Words

Liquid paraffin, Nanoemulsion, PIC, Ostwald ripening, Cosmetics

우병영 Byoung Young Woo , 민대진 Dae Jin Min , 백흥수 Heung Soo Baek , 김신형 Shin Hyoung Kim , 황준영 Joon Young Hwang , 박영호 Young Ho Park , 이존환 John Hwan Lee , 신송석 Song Seok Shin

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Abstract

This study is about the development of cholesteric liquid crystals (CLCs), which are highly applicable to cosmetics formulation. The CLCs made from non-animal origin were chosen not only because they are free of animal viruses but also because they give a sense of security to the cosmetic consumers. Three kinds of new cholesteric derivatives (CI, CC, CN) were synthesized using non-animal cholesterol [NAB cholesterol (ARCH LONZA)], which was originally made by fermentation process. To develop high applicability to cosmetics formulation, we attempted to find out the optimum compositions in which CLCs can maintain their color over a wide range of temperature. The CLCs in 41 different compositions were prepared by the combinations of three cholesteric derivatives and a visual evaluation method was employed to determine the range of temperature at which the CLCs display their color. The 205 UV-VIS spectral data obtained from 41 CLCs at various temperatures were simultaneously analyzed to investigate the critical factors affecting the characteristics of the CLCs. Results showed that A4, A5, A6 and A7 were the best compositions to cosmetics formulation. A6 composition had a great moisturizing effect by the artificial skin test (AmoReSkin^TM).

Key Words

Cholesteric liquid crystal, Cholesteryl isostearate, Cholesteryl nonanoate, Cholesteryl chloride, moisturizer

최성규 Sung Kyu Choi , 박근동 Kun Dong Park , 김다애 Da Ae Kim , 이대우 Dae Woo Lee , 김윤정 Yun Jeong Kim

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Abstract

In this study, in order to know the application for cosmetic ingredient, the liposome contained camel milk was prepared and tested in human skin fibroblast. Collagen and hyaluronan synthase-3 (HAS-3) gene expression were increased by camel milk liposome in a concentration-dependent manner, whereas elastase activity and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 gene expression were inhibited. We also found that camel milk liposome regenerated UVB-damaged fibroblast. As the results, we suggest that the liposome contained camel milk is applicable for a potential cosmetic ingredient to improve anti-aging effect.

Key Words

Camel milk liposome, Collagen, Hyaluronan synthase-3, Matrix metalloproteinase-1, Cell renewal

안은설 Eun Seol An , 최재순 Jae Sun Choi , 이동국 Dong Kuk Lee

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Abstract

Lipid membranes composed of phosphatidylcholine (PC) are used in biophysical study to mimic cellular membranes and interactions between the membrane and chemicals, where organics solvents are used in dissolving lipids or chemicals. Later, solvents are removed from the solution under nitrogen gas at room temperature, followed by the further removal of the solvent at vacuum condition for several hours. In this process, some solvents are easily removed under described conditions above and others are required more severe conditions. In this study, ³¹P solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance (SSNMR) techniques and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) were used to see any changes in the line shapes of ³¹P NMR spectra of multilamellar vesicles (MLVs) samples of POPC and in the phase change temperature of multilamellar vesicles (MLVs) of DPPC in DSC thermogram with or without any residual solvents. The thermodynamic parameters associated with the solvents did exhibit noticeable changes depending on solvent types. Thus, it is concluded that solvents should be carefully chosen and removed completely and experimental results should also be interpreted with caution particularly for the experiments investigating lipid phase changes and related topics.

Key Words

Lipid phase, Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), lipid membrane, Solvent effects, ³¹P solid-state Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (³¹P SSNMR).

이사은 Sa Eun Lee , 김성문 Songmun Kim , 임원철 Won Churl Lim , 강기춘 Ki Choon Kang , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

The purpose of this study was to analyse the volatile components of Thymus magnus Nakai extracted by different extraction methods and reproduce scent close to original plant based on the results. For this purpose, the essential oil of T. magnus was extracted by supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), water and steam distillation (WSD) and simultaneous steam distillation and extraction (SDE) methods. The compositions of the essential oil were analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Consequently, linalool (0.1%) and trans-sabinene hydrate (0.9%) contents in the essential oil extracted by SFE method of 40 ℃ - 400 bar condition were relatively higher than compositions of the essential oil extracted by different conditions. The contents of borneol (3.82%), terpinen-4-ol (0.3%) and caryophyllene oxide (2.2%) were relatively higher at 50 ℃ - 400 bar and the contents of β-bisabolene (5.88%), 1-octen-3-ol (0.31%), caryophyllene (2.91%), p-cymene (2.04%) and γ-terpinene (0.52%) were extracted relatively higher at 50 ℃ - 300 bar. The compositions of the essential oil extracted by SFE method of 50 ℃ - 200 bar condition contained relatively higher contents of thymol (77.63%) and carvacrol (5.65%). The contents of α-bisabolol (0.17%), caryophyllene (6.46%), cis-α-bisabolene (1.52%) and β-bisabolene (20.65%) in the essential oil extracted by WSD method were relatively higher than compositions of the essential oil extracted by SFE method, and by SDE method we couldn't obtained essential oil. The results of this study could be utilized to reproduce scent close to original scent of T. magnus.

Key Words

Thymus magnus, Essential oil, Supercritical fluid extraction, Water and steam distillation, Simultaneous steam distillation and extraction

한나경 Na Kyeong Han , 박창민 Chang Min Park , 권주찬 Ju Chan Kwon , 정민석 Min Seok Joung , 최종완 Jong Wan Choi

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Abstract

This study was performed to DPPH radical scavenging activity, ABTS radical scavenging activity, tyrosinase inhibition activity and intracellular melanin synthesis inhibition to verify the whitening effect of Fagopyrum tataricum (bitter buckwheat) extract as contrasted with Fagopyrum esculentum (sweet buckwheat) extract. F. tataricum extract in consequence showed higher antioxidant activities, tyrosinase inhibition activity and melanin synthesis inhibition compared with F. esculentum extract. We investigated skin bright value during 8 weeks after induction of pigmentation in human skin from UV irradiation. In result, we obtained statistically a significant skin whitening effect from visual and mechanical evaluation. Accordingly, F. tataricum extract is expected to be high availability as functional cosmetic material for skin whitening.

Key Words

Fagopyrum tataricum, antioxidant, whitening, tyrosinase, melanin

박태훈 Taehun Park , 조정훈 Jeong Hun Cho , 성영은 Youngeun Sung , 조준철 Jun-cheol Cho , 신계호 Kyeho Shin

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Abstract

Dental caries are one of the most common oral diseases and Streptococcus mutans (S. mutans) plays an important role in the initiation and progression of dental caries. Oral malodor is primarily the result of microbial metabolism such as Porphyromonas gingivalis (P. gingivalis) that produce volatile sulfur compounds (VSCs), causing oral malodor. Prevotella intermedia (P. intermedia) is known as typical periodontopathic bacteria, and periodontal disease is chronic inflammatory disease that leads to damage of gingival connective tissue and alveolar bone, eventually loss of teeth. In this study, we investigated antimicrobial effect of mouthwash containing cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC), sodium fluoride (NaF), green tea water extract and pine needles water extract against cariogenic and periodontopathic bacteria sucn as S. mutans, P. gingivalis and P. intermedia. As a result, the reduction ratios of S. mutans and P. gingivalis were 4.00 Log and 4.68 Log reduction for 30 s, and P. intermedia were 2.40 Log reduction for 30 s and 2.70 Log reduction for 60 s. Dentocult SM Strip mutans (SM Strip) provides easy detection of visual data showing a significant inhibition on S. mutans. In conclusion, we expected that mouthwash containing CPC, NaF, green tea water extract and pine needles water extract could help preventing the dental disease like dental caries and oral malodor.

Key Words

Dental caries, Mouthwash, Streptococci mutans, Antimicrobial effect, Dentocult SM Strip mutans

박선영 Sun Young Park , 이성훈 Sung Hoon Lee , 김은주 Eun Joo Kim , 최소웅 So Woong Choi , 김지영 Ji Young Kim , 조성아 Seong A Cho , 조준철 Jun Cheol Cho , 이해광 Hae Kwang Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Body fluid has been studied for diverse fields like Ringer’s solutions, artificial joint fluids, cell growth culture media because it plays a crucial role in controlling body temperature and acts as a solvent for diverse metabolite processes in the body and delivery media of mineral, energy source, hormone, signal and drug from and to cell via blood or lymphatic vessel by osmotic pressure or active uptake. Stratum corneum containing extracellular lipids and NMF (natural moisturizing factor) absorbs atmospheric water residing outside of cells and utilize it to hydrate inside of their own. This process is related to skin barrier function. In this study, we conducted the cell viability test with Cell Bio Fluid Sync^TM , which mimicks body fluids including amino acids, peptides, and monosaccharides to strengthen skin barrier, and the clinical skin improvement test with cosmetics containing Cell Bio Fluid Sync^TM. In the cell viability test, HaCaT cell was treated with PBS for 3 hours, followed by the treatment of a cell culture medium (DMEM) and isotonic solution (PBS) and Cell Bio Fluid Sync^TM for 3 hours each. Then, MTT assay and image analysis were conducted. In the clinical skin improvement test, twenty-one healthy women participated. Participants applied cosmetics containing Cell Bio Fluid Sync^TM on their face for a week and evaluated the skin hydration, skin roughness, brightness and evenness. All measurements were conducted after they washed off their face and took a rest under the constant temperature (22 ± 2 ℃) and constant humidity conditions (50 ± 5%) for 20 minutes. All the data were analyzed by SPSS (version 21) software program. Results showed that Cell Bio Fluid Sync^TM improved both the cell viability and in vivo skin conditions such as skin hydration, roughness, brightness and evenness.

Key Words

Cell Bio Fluid Sync^TM, body fluid, MTT test, clinical study

나영란 Young Ran Na , 구희수 Hee Soo Koo , 이승주 Seung Ju Lee , 강정미 Jung Mi Kang , 진성현 Seong Hyeon Jin

DOI:

Abstract

We measured the contact dermatitis-causing substances concentrations in 28 commercial oxidative hair-coloring products. This study was aimed to provide the fundamental data about oxidative hair-coloring products. We selected 10 oxidation dyes (p-phenylenediamine, toluene-2,5-diamine, m-phenylenediamine, nitro-p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, m-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, p-methylaminophenol, N,N'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol) and 4 heavy metal (nikel; Ni, chromium; Cr, cobalt; Co, copper; Cu) as contact dermatitis-causing substances. To identify 10 oxidation dyes, hexane-2% sodium sulfite was used for the rapid and simple extraction and ultra performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) analysis was used for simultaneous analysis in 12 minutes. 10 oxidative dyes were detected as indicated on the product packaging and each concentration was lower than prescribed upper concentration limit by pharmaceutical manufacturing standards. And we analysed inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectrophotometer (ICP-OES) for content search of heavy metal after microwave digestion. The heavy metal average concentration in oxidative hair-coloring products was 0.572 μg/g for Ni, 3.161 μg/g for Cr, 2.029 μg/g for Co, 0.420 μg/g for Cu, respectively. The average of concentration in powder type (henna) was higher than those of other foam and cream type oxidative hair-coloring products as follows; 1.800 μg/g for Ni, 10.127 μg/g for Cr, 7.082 μg/g for Co, 1.451 μg/g for Cu. Hair coloring products were classified into the six colors - black, dark brown, brown, dark brown, light brown, red brown and analyzed. Brown color had the highest average concentration of Co and the others had the highest average concentration of Cr.

Key Words

Oxidative hair-coloring products, Contact dermatitis, Oxidation dyes, Heavy metal

이미정 Mi Jeong Lee , 박정민 Jung Min Park

DOI:

Abstract

In Korean Cosmetic Act, four uses of functional cosmetics are recognized: skin whitening, anti-wrinkle, UV protection or suntan. Cosmeceuticals, one of the functional cosmetics, have been specifically developed for medical and cosmetic benefits. However, the uses of cosmeceuticals in patent applications are not limited to those of functional cosmetics, and the number is increasing with variety of medical use claims such as anti-inflammatory, prevention of hair loss, or obesity in cosmeceutical patent applications. Since some of the cosmeceutical use claims are not clearly distinguished from medical use claims in pharmaceuticals, there has been a controversy over the extent of granting patents regarding the medical use of cosmeceuticals. In this article, we have investigated the range of medical uses in patented claims of functional cosmetics, summarized examiners’ views and discussed the examination practice of cosmetic-related inventions in the United States, Europe, and Japan.

Key Words

Functional cosmetics, Cosmeceutical, Patent, Claim, Medical use