金鍾甲

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崔顯雄

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The damages in the structure of human hair fiber are observed when immersed in water and Lithium Bromide solution. Comparative Test between the experiment ally damaged hair fiber and untreated fiber (virgin hair) is performed with variables; H₂O₂ concentration, time, Temperature and NH₄OH as accelerator. The results are expressed by the damage percentages compared with the original diameters of hair fibers.

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鄭廣洙

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In this article, General principles and applications of column Chromatography for the analysis of cosmetic ingredients are discussed. Alumina packed column can isolate mineral oils in creams and liquid lanolin, lanolin esters, mineral oils, waxes in Lipsticks. Also alkyl sulfate in shampoos is fractionated by ion exchange resin column.

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D. Howes

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Presented at the IFSCC Ⅷth International Congress on 'Cosmetics--Quality and Safety' organized by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Great Britain at London on 26-30th August 1974. SYNOPSIS. The irritant action of a surfactant to skin may be related to the ability of that surfactant to penetrate the stratum corneum and act upon the underlying viable tissues. The percutaneous absorption of some [¹⁴C-] labelled anionic surfactants has been measured in vivo in rats, after both consumertype applications and applications of longer duration, and the results have been compared with those from in vitro studies using isolated rat skin and human epidermis. The methodology for both the in vivo and in vitro studies will be outlined and results will be presented from experiments with a series of sodium soaps of normal fatty acids, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl isethionate and sodium dodecy1benzene sulphonate. The in vivo techniques can also provide information as to the metabolic fate of topically applied surfactants under user type conditions. The usefulness of the in vitro techniques and their shortcomings will be discussed.

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D. Attwood , L. R. J. Currie , P. H. Elworthy

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The preparation and physical properties of oil/water solubilized micellar solutions (so-called "microemulsions") containing liquid paraffin, glycerol, water and blends of Tween 60 and Span 80 have been examined. Turbidity-spectra methods of particle sizing have shown that an increase of temperature of preparation over the range 25~80℃ led to a gradual decrease in the modal diameter and the half-width of the size distribution curve. Phase diagram studies on micellar solutions prepared at 70℃ have indicated a pronounced dependence of the area of existence of clear solutions on the ratio of Tween to Span in the system and on the oil content. Light-scattering investigations on these systems have indicated micelle diameters of between 13 and 45 nm. In general, micellar size was increased by increasing the oil content and by decreasing the surfactant/glycerol ratio. No significant effect on micellar diameter was detected as the Tween/Span molar ratio was varied between 1.0 and 1.6.

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D. Attwood , L. R. J. Currie , P. H. Elworthy

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Phase diagram studies have been carried out on oil/water solubilized micellar solutions (so-called "microemulsions") containing sodium oleate, amyl alcohol, water and' varying amounts of liquid paraffin. The isotropic solution regions have been defined. Light-scattering measurements have indicated an increase in micellar diameter following an increase in the concentration of liquid paraffin and a decrease in the surfactant/alcohol ratio. Estimations of the composition of the micelles have revealed that, although this increased diameter resulted mainly from an increase in the liquid paraffin content of the micelle, there were also increases in the concentrations of the other micellar components which contributed to the size increase. The molecular ratio of alcohol to sodium oleate at the micellar surface varied between 2.3 and 3.0. No significant dependence of this ratio on the liquid paraffin concentration or the bulk surfactant/alcohol ratio w.as noted.

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D. Attwood , L. R. J. Currie , P. H. Elworthy

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Viseosity studies have been carried out on a series of oil/water solubilized micellar solutions (so-called "microemulsions") of liquid paraffin, glycerol, water and blends of Tween 60 and Span 80. The variation of relative viscosity, η_rel, with volume fraction, ø, of the micelles conformed to η_rel = exp[αø/(1-kø)], where α is a constant and k is the hydrodynamic interaction coefficient. The value of k was found to be independent of micellar diameter over the range 13.3 to 48.6 nm. Decrease in the surfactant/glycerol molar ratio of the solntion from 0.231 to 0.028 produced a linear decrease in k from 1.10 to 0.62. Forø≤0.15, an exponential relationship existed between η_rel and the surfactant concentration, The effect of the surfactant concentration on the viscosity has been discussed in terms of the interaction between the polyoxyethylene chains at the surface of the micelles. Allowance for the hydration of the polyoxyethylene chain, reduced the value of α towards the theoretical value of 2.5 for solid spheres. Increase of the Tween/Span molar ratio from 1.0 to 1.6 had no 5ignifican t effect on the values of α or k.

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