하지훈 Ji Hoon Ha , 이혜미 Hye Mi Lee , 권순식 Soon Sik Kwon , 김해수 Hae Soo Kim , 김문진 Moon Jin Kim , 전소하 So Ha Jeon , 정유민 Yoo Min Jeong , 황준필 Jun Pil Hwang , 박종호 Jong-ho Park , 최영기 Yung-key Choi , 박진오 Jino Park , 박수남 Soo Nam Park , 박동식 Dong-sik Park

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Abstract

In this work, licorice extracts were prepared using various extraction conditions such as extraction solvent, temperature, and time from Glycyrrhiza uralensis (G. uralensis) produced in Korea and China and Glycyrrhiza glabra (G. glabra) in Uzbekistan. The optimum extraction condition was selected from the extraction yields and antioxidative activities of extracts. Korea licorice extracts showed the highest free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scav-enging activity (46.05%) under the extraction condition of 85% ethanol at 60 ℃ for 6 hours. The prominent ROS (reactive oxygen species) scavenging activity using luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay and the cellular protective effect against ¹O₂ induced cellular membrane damage were also shown from the extracts obtained from the same condition. Especially, Korea G. uralensis extracts exhibited the higher prominent protective effect (τ₅₀ = 116.4 min) than (+)-α-tocopherol (τ₅₀ = 28.5 min) and the extraction yield of Korea licorice extract was 18.75%, which is 1.2 times and 2.5 times higher than that of Uzbekistan and China, respectively. These results indicate that the extraction condition of 85% ethanol at 60 ℃ for 6 hours is optimal to prepare licorice extracts, which can be applicable as antioxidative cosmetic materials.

Key Words

Glycyrrhiza uralensis, Glycyrrhiza glabra, DPPH assay, luminol chemiluminescence assay, cellular protective effect

김영호 Young-ho Kim , 정은지 Eun-ji Jung , 이동원 Dong-won Lee , 이상길 Sang-gil Lee , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo

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Abstract

Water-soluble collagen (30 wt%) was entrapped within oil phase of lipstick using reversed micelle method to improve the moisture capacity of the lipstick. Reversed micelles containing collagen were prepared using caprylic/ capric triglyceride as external phase and polyoxyethylene (10) octylphenyl ether (Triton X-100) and 1-dodecanol as surfactant and co-surfactant, respectively. The formation of reversed micelle encapsulating collagen was confirmed by measuring electric conductivity and UV-vis spectrum using methylene blue (MB). The stability and moisture capacity of the lipstick containing 20 wt% collagen encapsulated reversed micelles were observed by measuring rheology property, moisture content and amino acid content. The molecular ratio (W, water-pool) of water to surfactant (Triton X-100) in the most stable reversed micelle was ≤ 10. The hardness of the lipstick had no difference with that of the lipstick without reversed micelle, and the moisture content was increased to 59% and the amino acid content was 92.7%.

Key Words

water-soluble collagen, reversed micelle method, lipstick, encapsulation

송혜진 Hye Jin Song , 진무현 Mu Hyun Jin , 이상화 Sang Hwa Lee

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Abstract

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is one of the major extracellular matrix components in skin. The HA content is reported to decline with age, which may contribute to decrease in skin moisture, wrinkle formation and the decrease in elasticity of the skin. Among the family of HA synthase genes (HAS-1, 2, 3) identified so far, HAS-2 plays crucial roles in the regulation of HA synthesis in human skin fibroblasts. In this study, we elucidated the effects of ferulic acid isolated from Cnidium officinale on HA production. Semi-quantitative RT-PCR and quantitative real-time PCR showed that ferulic acid increased mRNA level of HAS-2 gene and ELISA assay also revealed that ferulic acid increased HA production in human skin fibroblasts. Our study suggests that ferulic acid might prevent age-dependent skin deteriorations such as wrinkles, dryness and elasticity decrease, all of which could be ascribed to the reduction of the HA content in human skin.

Key Words

skin, hyaluronic acid, Cnidium officinale, ferulic acid, HAS-2

박성하 Sung Ha Park , 김아현 A Hyun Kim , 박병준 Byoung Jun Park , 김진준 Jin Jun Kim

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Abstract

To develop a new whitening agent for cosmetics, we investigated the inhibitory effects of biochanin A on melanogenesis. The biochanoin A is an active component in the extracts of Dalbergia odorifera T. Chen. It reduced melanin contents of B16F1 melanoma cells in a dose-dependent manner and decreased to about 48% at a concentration 10 μg/mL. It also inhibited the expression in microphthalmia associated transcription factor (MITF), Tyrosinase, Tyrosinase related protein 1 (Trp-1), and Tyrosinase related protein 2 (Trp-2) in melanocytes. The results suggested that biochanin A has considerable potential as a cosmetics ingredient with a whitening effect.

Key Words

Biochanin A, whitening, melanin, Dalbergia odorifera T.CHEN

한샛별 Saet Byeol Han , 권순식 Soon Sik Kwon , 공봉주 Bong Ju Kong , 김경진 Kyeong Jin Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory activities of unripened fruit extract of Rubus coreanus Miquel (R. coreanus Miquel) on tyrosinase were investigated and the potential applicability as a cosmeceutical ingredients was evaluated. All experiments were performed with 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction of unripened fruit extract of R. coreanus Miquel. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activites (FSC₅₀) of 50% ethanol extract (6.56 μg/mL) and ethyl acetate fraction (6.14 μg/mL) of unripened fruit extract of R. coreanus Miquel were higher than (+)-α-tocopherol (8.98 μg/mL), which is known as a typical hydrophobic antioxidant. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of 50% ethanol extract (0.83 μg/mL), ethyl acetate fraction (0.84 μg/mL) and aglycone fraction (1.13 μg/mL) of R. coreanus Miquel on ROS generated in Fe³⁺ -EDTA/H₂O₂ system were higher than L-ascorbic acid (1.5 μg/mL), which is known as s typical hydrophilic antioxidant. The cellular protective effect of extract and fraction of unripened fruit extract of R. coreanus Miquel on the rose bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes was increased in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 50 μg/mL). And 50% ethanol extract in 50 μg/mL showed the most protective effect among extracts (τ₅₀ = 296.3 min). The inhibitory effects on tyrosinase of ethyl acetate and agylcone fractions were higher than arbutin. These results indicate that unripened fruit extracts of R. coreanus Miquel can be applied to antioxidant scavenging ROS including radical as an alternative whitening agent to replace arbutin.

Key Words

Rubus coreanus Miquel, antioxidative activity, tyrosinase, photoaging, cosmetics

최우석 Woo Seok Choi , 권희석 Hee-souk Kwon , 노라환 Ra Hwan No , 최근표 Geun Pyo Choi , 이현용 Hyeon Yong Lee

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Abstract

This study was performed to investigate the anti-inflammatory activities of fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extracts using Lactobacillus rhamnosus. The extracts were WE (water extract at 100 ℃ for 24 h), EE (70% ethanol extract at 60 ℃ for 24 h), FWE (fermented and water extract at 60 ℃ for 24 h), FEE (fermented and 70% ethanol extract at 60 ℃ for 24 h). The cytotoxicity of the extracts was in the range of 11.2 ∼ 15.6 % at 1.0 mg/mL concentratioin. The FEE showed the lowest activity at 1.0 mg/mL concentratioin. Compared to the WE, hyaluronidase inhibitory activity contents in the FEE increased to 9.2% at 1.0 mg/mL concentratioin. Nitric oxide production of WE, EE, FWE and FEE at 1.0 mg/mL concentration was mesured as 7.6, 7.9, 6.9, 6.4 μM, respectively. PGE₂ secretion of the human fibroblast of the FEE were lower than 810 pg/mL. Our results suggested that the extracts from fermentation process after 70% ethanol extraction had relatively high anti-inflammatory activities and that the Scutellaria baicalensis could be more extracted in FEE than others.

Key Words

Scutellaria baicalensis GEORGE, Lactobacillus rhamnosus, anti-inflammatory activities, fermentation, extraction process

오정영 Jung Young Oh , 김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 이근수 Geun Soo Lee , Yong He Zhang , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

Ultraviolet irradiation in the cells and skin produces reactive oxygen species (ROS), which induces the synthesis of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) causing skin photoaging. Using the human dermal fibroblast (HDF), we investigated the antioxidative and anti-aging effects of the extracts from Talinum paniculatum. Talinum paniculatum leaf and stem extracts (LSE) showed free radical scavenging effect by 98.45% at 500 μg/mL and superoxide radical scavenging effect by 97.01% at 500 μg/mL in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system. The photoprotective potential of LSE was tested in HDF exposed to ultraviolet irradiation. It was revealed that LSE had an inhibitory effect on MMP-1 expression in UVA-irradiated HDF without any significant cytotoxicity. The treatment of UVA-irradiated HDF with LSE resulted in dose-dependent decreases in the expression levels of MMP-1 mRNA and protein. Also, UVB-induced cytotoxicity and cell death were effectively suppressed by treatment of LSE. Additionally, the senescence-associated β- galactosidase (SA-β-gal) activity was decreased in the presence of LSE. These results suggest that Talinum paniculatum leaf and stem extracts (LSE) may have anti-aging effects and can be used as new functional materials against oxidative stress-mediated skin damages.

Key Words

Talinum paniculatum, antioxidation, MMP, anti-aging, ultraviolet

정유철 Yu Chul Jung , 이명렬 Meoung Ryul Lee , 김은주 Eun Joo Kim , 조준철 Jun Cheol Cho , 이해광 Hae Kwang Lee

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Abstract

Various indicators representing skin characteristics such as skin hydration, sebum excretion rate, lightness, and pH are different depending on environmental and genetic factors. However, they are absolute skin indicators and are different from skin characteristics that a person recognizes. Based on this fact, many recent studies have been mainly conducting researches on perspective changes according to changes of absolute skin. This study was proposed not only to find out differences on skin colors of asian by nations, but also to find out whether there was any difference in skin brightness they perceive depending on actual skin color changing. As many as 410 subjects of three Asia nations were participated in this study, and investigated their responses on skin brightness using questionnaire, which was answered their skin color in three different levels. It was also were analyzed how actual skin brightness were changed depending on their perceived skin color changes of subjects. There was a trend showing that the brightness of the actual skin color was increased when participants felt their skin color got brighter regardless of their nationalities. However, there were some differences in color between perceived color and actual color. In addition, there was a different aspect by nations in changes of skin redness and skin yellowness. In conclusion, it was revealed that factors which help people to perceive their own skin brightness were not based on absolute skin brightness, but on different criteria depending on where they are from.

Key Words

Asian, Skin color, Brightness, Recognition

김상진 Sang Jin Kim , 성낙도 Nack Do Sung

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Abstract

Three-dimensional quantitative structure-activity relationships (3D-QSARs) models between the substituents with changing groups (R₁ & R₂) of 4-hydroxybenzyl alcohol (4-HBA) derivatives as substrate molecule and their inhibitory activities against tyrosinase were derived and discussed quantitatively. The optimized CoMSIA FF model showed the best predictability and fitness (r² = 0.858 & q² = 0.951). The contour maps of the optimized CoMSIA FF model showed that, the inhibitory activities of the analogues against tyrosinase were expected to increase when hydrophobic (Hy) favor, negative charge (E) favor, steric (S) disfavor and hydrogen bond donor (HD) disfavor groups were substituted at the R₂ position. When the hydrogen bond donor (HD) favor groups were substituted at the R₁ position, it is predicted that the substituents will be able to increase the inhibitory activity.

Key Words

CoMFA, CoMSIA, 3D-QSARs, 4-hydroxybenzyl alcohol (4-HBA) analogues, Tyrosinase inhibitory activity

이혜미 Hye Mi Lee , 공봉주 Bong Ju Kong , 권순식 Soon Sik Kwon , 김경진 Kyeong Jin Kim , 김해수 Hae Soo Kim , 전소하 So Ha Jeon , 하지훈 Ji Hoon Ha , 김진숙 Jin-sook Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects of Aronia melanocarpa fruit and leaf extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities (FSC₅₀) of the ethylacetate and aglycone fractions of fruit extracts were 16.29 μg/mL, and 12.29 μg/mL, respectively. The free radical scavenging activity of fruit extract was higher than that of leaf extracts. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of the ethylacetate and aglycone fractions of fruit extracts on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay showed 2.86 μg/mL, and 1.80 μg/mL, respectively. ROS scavenging activity of the aglycone fraction of fruit extracts was similar to that of L-ascorbic acid (1.50 μg/mL). The ROS scavenging activity of fruit extracts was higher than that of leaf extracts. The cellular protective effects of aglycone fraction of fruit extracts (τ₅₀ = 72.3 min) on the ¹O₂-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes especially were increased in a concentration dependent manner (5 ~ 50 μg/mL). τ₅₀ (72.3 min) of the aglycone fraction showed 1.9 times higher than (+)-α -tocopherol (38 min), known as lipophilic antioxidant at 10 μg/mL. These results incidicate that A. melanocarpa fruit extracts have higher antioxidant effects than leaf extracts and could be applicable to functional cosmetics materials for antioxidants by protecting skin exposed to solar UV radiation against ROS including ¹O₂.

Key Words

Aronia melanocarpa, antioxidative activity, photoaging, cellular protective effect