홍준기 Junki Hong , 유재원 Jaewon You , 유장영 Jangyung Yoo , 남승옥 Seungok Nam , 이상길 Sanggil Lee , 표형배 Hyeongbae Pyo

DOI:

Abstract

The aqueous two phase system has biocompatibility, because it is physically separated into an immiscible liquid multi-layer induced by incompatibility among hydrophilic components dissolved in the water phase. we have applied this principle to aqueous multi-layer liquid cosmetics and select two representative systems. What it was experimentally obtained was the phase diagrams including a binodal curve, a critical point, tie lines of concentration and tie curves of phase separating volume ratio and phase separating time. From the phase diagrams, we were able to observe existence of the optimum condition to prepare the aqueous multi-layer cosmetics for the systems.

Key Words

aqueous two phase system, multi-layer, polyethylene glycol, potassium phosphate, ethanol

임형준 Hyung Jun Lim , 이진영 Jin Young Lee , 김한별 Han Byul Kim , 김도훈 Do-hoon Kim , 신송석 Song Seok Shin

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Abstract

This study demonstrate that polymeric microspheres composed of poly (ethylene adipate) (PEA) and poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) can encapsulate and remarkably stabilize Broussonetia kazinoki root extract. We compared the long-term stability and the activity of Broussonetia kazinoki root extract in polymeric microspheres fabricated with different polymer ratio of PEA and PMMA. PMMA was incorporated to the PEA microsphere in order to reinforce the physical strength of microsphere, and there was no noticeable negative effect on the activity of Broussonetia kazinoki root extract. Optical microscope (OM), polarized microscope (PM), and scanning electron microscope (SEM) results showed that PMMA incorporated microspheres were very spherical and had smoothsurface. On the other hand, PEA microspheres showed relatively irregular morphology due to the low physical strength of microspheres. Moreover, the mushroom tyrosinase activities were measured for testing the inhibitory activity of Broussonetia kazinoki root extract encapsulated in polymeric microspheres, and these microspheres showed the effective suppression of mushroom tyrosinase activity. Consequently, polymeric microspheres produced in this study may be beneficial for the research of improving stability and protecting labile substances incorporated into the polymeric microspheres.

Key Words

Broussonetia kazinoki root extract, microsphere, encapsulation, kazinol C, whitening

여인권 In Kwon Yeo , 석장미 Jang Mi Suk , 정상욱 Sang Wook Jung , 박진오 Jin Oh Park , 김은주 Eun Joo Kim , 남개원 Gae Won Nam , 유광호 Kwang Ho Yoo , 김범준 Beom Joon Kim , 김명남 Myeung Nam Kim

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Abstract

Recently, the importance of cleansing is emphasized according to increasing use of cosmetics. Even though many cleansing devices with a rotating brush are commercially available, there are no reports about cleansing devices with rotating brushes in Korean literature. In the present study, we evaluated the efficacy of cleansing device with a rotating brush which was named PBRCF1201 (Amorepacific Co., Korea). 20 volunteers were enrolled in this study. Before and after use of PBRCF1201, we measured the number of black head, skin brightness, desquamation index, sebum, and the number of pores on the face and forearm. Cleansing by cleansing device with a rotating brush was shown to cleanse better than manual cleansing. In addition, the number of black heads, skin brightness, desquamation index, sebum and the number of pore were also improved after cleansing. Therefore, the cleansing device with a rotating brush appears to be an effective cleansing method without causing injury or dryness.

Key Words

rotating brush, cleansing device, black head, sebum

서영경 Young Kyoung Seo , 고재숙 Jae Sook Koh , 이원철 Won Chul Lee

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Abstract

In Korea, the human skin tests to evaluate the anti-wrinkles and whitening effect have been accomplished in accordance with the KFDA guideline. Regarding the data of the visual assessment and machinery evaluation of the results for the human skin test, unpaired t-test have been used in order to compare between the test and the control groups and paired t-test for the comparison of effects for before and after. Descriptive statistics such as frequency analyses was used for the questionnaire evaluation data. In many cases of the European and American clinical test centers, the methodology and the statistical analysis were similar to ours. But, the documentation obtained by repeated application from identical individual has high relation. For this reason, it is desirable to apply RM ANCOVA and RM ANOVA to a visual assessment and machinery evaluation. We suggested that RM ANCOVA and RM ANOVA is the new approach to statistical analysis of human test data of functional cosmetics.

Key Words

clinical statistics, functional cosmetics, repeated measures ANOVA, repeated measures ANCOVA

김혜진 Hye Jin Kim , 장하나 Ha Na Jang , 배정윤 Jeong Yun Bae , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, The stability of a cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of 50% ethanol extracts from Glycyrrhiza uralensis (G. uralensis) cultured in Korea was investigated. pH, absorbance, viscosity and color difference of the cream containing 0.20% ethyl acetate fraction of the aforementioned G. uralensis extracts were measured under 4 different temperature conditions (4 ℃ 25 ℃ 37 ℃ and 45 ℃) and under the sun light at 2 week intervals for 12 weeks. pH changes of a control cream without the extracts and the sample cream containing 0.20% ethyl acetate fraction of G. uralensis extracts were 0.66 and 0.44, respectively. There were no significant pH differences between the sample and the control under the sun. Viscosities of the control cream and the sample cream decreased by 2,483 cPs and 2,893 cPs respectively. So, the sample cream showed a bigger decline (410 cP) in viscosity than the control cream. The ethyl acetate fraction of G. uralensis extracts did not affect the stability of the cream. Absorbance of ethanol solution of the ethyl acetate fraction decreased 30.00% at 276 nm under the sun. On the other hand, the absorbance of the sample cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction decreased 12.02%. The stability of the G. uralensis extracts was better in cream formulation than in ethanol solution. The total color differences of all creams increased slightly during the study period under various conditions. The results appeared to indicate the color stability of the cream containing 0.20% ethyl acetate fraction of G. uralensis extracts. It is suggested that further study is needed to provide more information to the manufacturers who are seeking for the application of the G. uralensis extracts to improve the anti-oxidant and stability of cosmetic products.

Key Words

Glycyrrhiza uralensis, cream, stability, viscosity, absorbance

백흥수 Heung Soo Baek , 안수미 Soo Mi Ahn , 우병영 Byoung Young Woo , 조영석 Young Seok Cho , 최수정 Soo Jeong Choi , 노호식 Ho Sik Rho , 변경희 Kyoung Hee Byoun , 신송석 Song Seok Shin , 박영호 Young Ho Park , 주영협 Yung Hyup Joo

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Abstract

The structure activity relationship of polyhydroxylated benzamide derivatives for whitening effects was examined. The adamantyl benzamide derivatives with catechol (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) of B-ring part showed good anti- melanogenesis activity, but the inhibitory activity of mono-hydroxyphenyl (3-OH or 4-OH) or 3,4-dimethoxyphenyl substituted derivatives was decreased or lost. Therefore the catechol unit was appeared to be the crucial factor for the inhibition of melanogenesis. And the existence of 2-OH of A-ring part had minor influence on the activity, the length of carbon chain between A-ring and B-ring was also not the major factor for the anti-melanogenesis activity.

Key Words

melanogenesis, adamantyl N-benzylbenzamide, adamantyl N-phenethylbenzamide, polyhydroxypropanoid, tyrosinase

최서희 Suh Hee Choi , 김현주 Hyun Ju Kim , 이범천 Bum Chun Lee , 문태기 Tae Kee Moon , 김남수 Nam Soo Kim

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Abstract

This in vivo study via ASTM E2752-10, cup scrub method, was performed to evaluated the residual effectiveness of PCMX and IPMP commonly used in antibacterial soap. The liquid soap having 5% of PCMX and 0.1% of IPMP showed statistically significant reduction of E. coli and S. aurues as compared with control in a trial of 80 healthy volunteers. And its efficacy was maintained for 27 h at least. We report the result of residual effectiveness of antibacterial agents for the first time in Korea.

Key Words

residual effectiveness, antibacterial, cup scrub, soap, clinical trial

오인영 In Young Oh , 김소영 So Young Kim , 석장미 Jang Mi Suk , 정상욱 Sang Wook Jung , 박진오 Jin Oh Park , 유광호 Kwang Ho Yoo , 이갑석 Kapsok Li , 김범준 Beom Joon Kim , 김명남 Myeung Nam Kim

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Abstract

The harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation by increasing sun exposure are making people use sunscreens casually. To keep pace with this trend, many researches about mixing different ingredients or extracting effective ingredients from natural materials are conducted by cosmetics industry. In the present study, we evaluated the UV blocking effect of the sunscreen containing Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi extract. 10 volunteers were measured by minimal erythema dose (MED) and sun protection factor (SPF) of each product. The SPF results were 34.52 ± 2.13 and 32.67 ± 1.44 in the sunscreen containing Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi extract and that of not containing the substance, respectively. Although the difference of SPF between two products was statistically not significant, it is thought to be meaningful in evaluating clinical effects of the sunscreen using natural substance to humans without any adverse reaction.

Key Words

sunscreen composed of natural substances, Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi extract, sun protection factor

윤성욱 Sungwook Yoon

DOI:

Abstract

L-ascorbic acid, the representative antioxidants, has a great effect on skin whitening, collagen synthesis, and anti-aging, but has low oxidative stability during storage. Therefore, in this study, thermal and oxidation properties of L-ascorbic acid under various storage conditions (powder, aqueous phase, changes of temperature, UV-irradiation, and inflow of external air etc.) were investigated. And the storage stability of ingredient was validated in the double-spaced pouch by analysing oxidation properties under each storage conditions (powder phase and blended with essence). In oder to analyze the thermal properties, TGA, DSC, and FT-IR analysis were carried out and UV-visible spectrophotometer & redox titration were used in parallel for oxidation property analyses. From the result of experiment, L-ascorbic acid was oxidized fast when it contained lots of metallic ion, hydroxy ion in aqueous solution under high temperature, UV-irradiation & inflow external air, whereas it was not oxidized for a long time when it was stored as pure powder although it has same condition as heating up, UV-irradiation & inflow external air. Based on this result, retention period of cosmetics which is using L-ascorbic acid, less stable material in oxidation can be innovatively increased when using double- spaced pouch that is designed and produced for separating storage of active ingredients.

Key Words

L-ascorbic acid, thermal property, oxidation property, storage condition, double-spaced pouch

이준영 Jun Young Lee , 임경란 Kyung Ran Im , 정택규 Taek Kyu Jung , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

In order to develop new skin whitening agents, we prepared the EtOAc layer (AJE) after enzyme treatment of 75% EtOH extract of the Alnus Japonica Steud. We measured their tyrosinase inhibitory activity in vitro and melanin synthesis inhibitory activity in B16-F1 melanoma cells. They did not show inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase but showed melanin synthesis inhibitory activity in a dose-dependent manner. In a melanin synthesis inhibition assay, AJE suppressed melanin production up to 52% at a concentration of 40 μg/mL. To elucidate the mechanism of the inhibitory effects of AJE on melanogenesis, we measured expression of melanogenesis-related proteins by the western blot assay. As a result, AJE suppressed the expression of tyrosinase related protein 1 (TRP-1) and microphthalmia associated transcription factor (MITF). Moreover, AJE increased the expression of phosphorylated extracellular signal- regulated kinase (p-ERK). These results conclude that ERK activation by AJE reduces melanin synthesis via MITF downregulation and is subsequent to the inhibition of TRP-1 expression. Therefore, we suggest that AJE could be used as active ingredients for skin whitening.

Key Words

Alnus Japonica Steud, melanogenesis, TRP-1, MITF, ERK activation