이청희 Chung Hee Lee , 신재동 Jae Dong Shin , 배수현 Su Hyun Bae , 강기춘 Ki Choon Kang , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) becomes unstable in the aqueous phase by oxygen, light and alkali, etc. The properties are limited in application to cosmetics. The most important factor that determines the destabilization of ascorbic acid in the aqueous phase was tried to understand considering its molecular deformation and degradation. In this study, we changed the polyols and emulsification technique for the stability of ascorbic acid. Then we observed the color and concentration change of ascorbic acid at room temperature and high temperature (42 ℃) for 6 weeks and identified the stability using HPLC regularly. As a result, we found that glycerin was the most appropriate polyol for stability of the ascorbic acid. Also the technique of nonaqueous emulsification stabilized ascorbic acid than P/S emulsification. Also, P/S emulsification, glycerin was more stable than propylene glycol. By the results we suggest that ascorbic acid could be stabilized by nonaqueous emulsification method and this data could be applied to stabilization methods for cosmetic products.

Key Words

ascorbic acid, stabilization, nonaqueous emulsification, P/S emulsification

김선영 Sun-young Kim , 김일구 Il-gu Kim , 최승만 Seung-man Choi , 이상민 Sang-min Lee

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Abstract

In this study, the dispersion ability of powder in low viscosity solubilization system that depends on variety and amount of additives and powders was investigated. A PMMA powder shows outstanding dispersion ability because of its repulsive force of partially charged chain and low density of porous structure. A sample, which contains salts, showed better dispersion tendency than a sample without any additives. The dispersion ability was quantity of salts dependent. Furthermore, a sample with divalent ion salts, like MgSO₄, showed better dispersion tendency than that of monovalent ion salts, like NaCl or KCl. The reason for the better dispersion tendency was due to the existence of ionized salts around the powders which significantly improves repulsive force between powders and consequently reduces powder aggregation. The sample with chelating agent, like EDTA as an additive, had improved dispersion ability. EDTA chelates and blocks metal cation therefore anion's character is maximized and repulsive force between powders is improved. As a result, salts and EDTA help to improve the powder dispersion ability and the stability of product.

Key Words

Powder dispersion, salt, EDTA, repulsive force, aggregation

이준영 Jun Young Lee , 임경란 Kyung Ran Im , 정택규 Taek Kyu Jung , 이명희 Myoung-hee Lee , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

To develop new therapeutic materials to prevent hair loss and enhance hair growth, we developed a medicinal herbal complex extract (MHCE) using 23 herbs traditionally used in oriental medicine. Medicinal Herbal complex extract was consist of Angelica gigas Nakai, Psoralea corylifolia Linne, Biota orientalis Endlicher, and Eclipta prostrata Linne, Rehmannia glutinosa Liboschitz var. purpurea Makino, Ligustrum lucidum Aiton, Polygonum multiflorum Thunberg, and Sesamum indicum Linne, Sophora angustifolia Sieboldet Zuccarini, Angelica dahurica Benthamet Hooker, and Leonurus sibiricus Linne, Salvia miltiorrhiza Bunge, Prunus persica Batsch, Commiphora molmol Engler, Chrysanthemum indicum Linne, Boswellia carterii Birdwood, Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer, Cnidium officinale Makino, Albizia julibrissin Durazzini, and Corydalis ternata Nakai that have traditionally been used for treating hair loss, preventing gray hair, anti-inflammation, and blood circulation in oriental medicine. In addition, we examined the hair growth effect of MHCE in vitro and in vivo. In vitro, we evaluated the effects of MHCE on cultured HFDPC, HaCaT cells, and murine embryonal fibroblasts (NIH3T3 cells). Also, we evaluated the ability of MHCE to prevent gray hair on murine melanoma cells (B16F1 cells). The hair growth-promoting effect of MHCE in vitro was also observed in vivo using C57BL/6 mice. Our results showed that MHCE significantly increased the proliferation of HFDPC (175 % proliferation at 50 μg/mL), HaCaT cells (133 % proliferation at 20 μg/mL), and NIH3T3 cells (120 % proliferation at 50 μg/mL). MHCE also showed consistent melanogenesis in B16F1 cells (154 % melanin synthesis at 50 μg/mL). Moreover, MHCE showed potential for hair growth stimulation in C57BL/6 mice experiments (98 % hair growth area on 4 weeks). These results indicate that MHCE may be a good candidate for promotion of hair growth.

Key Words

medicinal herbal complex extract, hair growth, human follicle dermal papilla cell, NIH3T3 cell, C57BL/6 mice

서영경 Young Kyoung Seo , 유미애 Mi Ae Yoo , 류자현 Ja Hyun Ryu , 김소정 So Jeong Kim , 조성아 Seong A Cho , 남개원 Gae Won Nam , 조준철 Jun-cheol Cho , 부용출 Yong Chool Boo , 고재숙 Jae-sook Koh

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Abstract

Cosmetic products which might augment the breast have attracted an attention and objective methods for the evaluation of such products are in high demand. This study was conducted to establish a method for assessing the breast-firmming effects of cosmetics. This study included a total of 30 healthy Korean females aged 20-50 years. A cosmetic product was applied by massaging it onto the breast twice a day for 8 weeks. Measurement of breast girth with a tape ruler, 2D and 3D digital image analyses, and Moire topographic analysis were performed before and following the treatment. The application of a cosmetic onto the breast significantly increased breast girth at 2, 4 and 8 weeks without a significant change in underbreast girth, implicating the breast might be augmented. The 2D image analysis indicated that the arc length of the breast which represents the surface distance from the nipple to the periphery of the under-breast was significantly increased at 2, 4 and 8 weeks. The height of the breast which represents the perpendicular distance from the nipple to the periphery of the under-breast was also increased significantly at 4 and 8 weeks. The 3D image analysis of body surface also demonstrated a significant increase of breast volume at 2, 4 and 8 weeks. Moire topographic analysis indicated that breast sagging was significantly reduced at 2, 4 and 8 weeks. The results of this study suggest that Moire topography in combination with 2D and 3D digital image analyses may be useful for evaluating the breast-augmenting effects of cosmetics.

Key Words

breast volume, breast firmming, 3D imaging, moire tophography

원두현 Doo Hyun Won , 한샛별 Saet Byeol Han , 황준필 Jun Pil Hwang , 김수지 Su Ji Kim , 박진오 Jino Park , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory activities on tyrosinase of Lindera obtusiloba Blume (L. obtusiloba Blume) extracts were investigated. 50 % ethanol extract, ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions of L. obtusiloba Blume were used in experiments. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activities of ethyl acetate fraction of L. obtusiloba Blume was higher than (+)-α-tocopherol, known as a typical antioxidant. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities of extract and fractions of L. obtusiloba Blume on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system were similar to L-ascorbic acid, well known as a strong antioxidant. The cellular protective effects of 50 % ethanol extract and ethyl acetate of L. obtusiloba Blume on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were increased in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 25 μg/mL). Ethyl acetate fraction in 10 μg/mL concentration showed the most protective effect among extracts (τ₅₀ = 361.0 min). The inhibitory effects on tyrosinase of ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions were higher than arbutin, known as a whitening agent. These results indicate that L. obtusiloba Blume extracts can be used as antioxidant, and could be applicable to functional cosmetic ingredient.

Key Words

Lindera obtusiloba Blume, antioxidative activity, tyrosinase, photoaging

남기백 Gi Baeg Nam , 조선아 Sun-a Cho , 조준철 Jun-cheol Cho , 김찬호 Chanho Kim , 김유진 Yoo-jin Kim , 이존환 John Hwan Lee , 신계호 Kyeho Shin

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Abstract

Through our entire life, oral care products such as toothpaste are used. Thus the safety of oral care products used every day to our mouth is very important. As the previous study in animal tests or clinical trials, surfactant in toothpaste may cause the oral irritation. However, EU cosmetics legislation prohibits animal testing of cosmetics and its ingredient for animal welfare. Therefore the development of alternative in vitro test has been actively performed to replace or reduce using the animal in many areas. However, the way to evaluate oral mucosal toxicity has been done using animal models or clinical trials from now on. Even more, the experiment with human oral 3D tissue or human oral cell line is used recently. The aim of this study is the development of oral mucosal irritation method without using animal for the safety of the oral care product. We developed in vitro test method for oral irritation by using human oral cell line (YD-38 cell) acceptable to toothpaste which contains insoluble material. By the results of this assay, we could discriminate toothpaste with or without irritating substance as same manner in animal studies reported previously. In addition, we confirmed that toothpaste for babies and children toothpaste irritated oral musoca lower than the general adult toothpaste. The present study suggest that this new in vitro method by using human oral cell line (YD-38 cell) could be used for evaluation of oral irritation without using animal.

Key Words

oral irritation, YD-38, toothpaste, alternative

김아름 Ah-reum Kim , 김수나 Su-na Kim , 이현기 Hyun-gee Lee , 전병배 Byeong-bae Jeon , 박원석 Won-seok Park

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Abstract

Seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is the skin disease occurred because of Malassezia yeast which grows on the skin and scalp, and this yeast lives on sebum lipid, and their metabolite, free lipid acids are thought to be the main irritant on skin. To find out effective cosmeceutical ingredients to treat SD symptoms, we established novel cell-based in vitro model mimicking SD symptoms. This in vitro model adopted the co-culture system with primary sebocyte & HaCaT keratinocyte. We used M. globosa yeast extract, arachidonic acid, linoleic acid and dihydrotestosterone as SD inducers. In the co-culture system with optimized concentrations for SD-inducing cocktail, the production of IL-8 and sebum lipids increased up to 2-fold, and then we screened with commercial essential oils by monitoring IL-8 as a key inflammatory biomarker. Then we found that Cinnamomum zeylanicum oil, Mentha arvensis oil effectively down-regulated IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8 cytokines which over-produced by SD-inducing cocktail. Additionally, two essential oils also showed inhibitory effect on sebum lipid synthesis from primary sebocyte and growth inhibitory effect to M. globosa yeast (MICs were lower than 0.0625 %). Our recent results suggest that Cinnamomum zeylanicum oil and Mentha arvensis oil could be effective natural herbal remedies to relieve or protect scalp seborrheic dermatitis.

Key Words

Seborrheic dermatitis, co-culture system, M. globosa, Cinnamomum zeylanicum oil, Mentha arvensis oil

김인수 In Su Kim , 최선영 Sun Young Choi , 김병규 Byung Gyu Kim , 김정기 Jeong Kee Kim , 김은주 Eun Joo Kim , 김범준 Beom Joon Kim , 김명남 Myeung Nam Kim

DOI:

Abstract

Recent studies have revealed that collagen peptide plays a protective role on skin by improving the activity of antioxidants and acts as an inducer of skin regeneration. To evaluate the efficacy of low molecular weight collagen peptide for skin recovery after non-ablative 1550 nm fractional photothermolysis laser. 10 volunteers were randomly divided into two groups. Both control and experimental groups received fractional photothermolysis treatment. In the experimental group, 5 subjects received oral collagen peptide 1,000 mg/day for 8 weeks. Before and after the treatment, we measured elastic recovery of skin, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema index (EI) for each patients. The evaluation of clinical results showed that elastic recovery of skin is higher in the experimental group than the control group (p < 0.05). TEWL have no significancy between two groups and erythema rapidly disappeared in the experimental group. On the quartile grading scale, the mean patient satisfaction 4 weeks after the fractional photothermolysis treatment was 2.0 in experimental group and 1.2 in control group. The low molecular weight collagen peptide appears to be an effective conservative therapy for skin recovery after non-ablative 1550 nm fractional photothermolysis treatment.

Key Words

collagen peptide, fractional phtothermolysis, skin recovery

배준태 Jun Tae Bae , 송민현 Min Hyeon Song , 김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 이근수 Geun Soo Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

Liquiritigenin and isoliquiritigenin are the major flavonoids present in licorice. These flavonoid compounds were prepared by submerged culture of Grifola frondosa (G. frondosa) HB0071 mycelia producing β-glucosidase in the aqueous extract of licorice. The contents of liquiritigenin and isoliquiritigenin were increased during the fermentation. This fungus produced a high β-glucosidase (activity of 91.5 mU/mL), thereby achieving high amounts of liquiritigenin and isoliquiritigenin (568.5 μg/mL and 89.6 μg/mL), respectively at 96 h. A reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography method was established for simultaneous determination of liquiritigenin and isoliquiritigenin in fermented licorice extract (FLEx). The anti-inflammatory activities were investigated by licorice extract (LEx) before and after fermentation with G. frondosa HB0071. The treatment of UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocytes with FLEx resulted in a dose-dependent decrease in the expression level of cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) mRNA. Furthermore, FLEx dose-dependently decreased mRNA of the pro-inflammatory cytokines of IL-1β and IL-6 in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. These results suggest that FLEx may mitigate the effects of skin inflammation by reducing UVB-induced adverse skin reactions.

Key Words

Licorice, Grifola frondosa HB0071, β-glucosidase, flavonoids anti-inflammation

김주덕 Ju Duck Kim

DOI:

Abstract

At this point in time, the importance of cosmeceuticals is being emphasized. This report is about the cosmeceuticals usage analysis of actual condition and purchasing behavior of female undergraduates. I suggest the methods for the sustainable improvement of cosmeceuticals that will satisfy needs of more customers through market segmentation. The subjects of this study were 340 undergraduates of selected 2 women's Universities in Seoul. 300 replies among the total distibuted questionnaires were analyzed with SPSS WIN 15.0 Statistics program. Through the study, it appears that the most female undergraduates use cosmeceuticals and the usage of cosmeceuticals is to resolve their skin problems. The most popular places for the purchase of cosmeceuticals are department stores and the most important consideration on purchases is the effectiveness of products. It is discovered that sunscreens are the most used cosmeceuticals.

Key Words

cosmeceuticals, usage actual condition, purchasing behavior, female undergraduates