임현희 Hyun Hee Leem , 김은옥 Eun Ok Kim , 서미자 Mi Jae Seo , 최상원 Sang Won Choi

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Abstract

This study was conducted to develop functional sources of herbal cosmetics for treatment of skin aging and inflammatory disorders using volatile flavor extracts of four different herbal medicinal prescriptions including Cnidium officinale Makino (COM), Angelica gigas Nakai (AGN), Mentha arvense L. (MAL), Artemisiae argyi Folium (AAF), Paeonia lactiflora Pall (PLP), Rehmanniae Radix Preparata (RRP), Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi (SBG), Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer (PGM), Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch (GUF). The volatile flavor extracts of four different herbal medicinal prescriptions (HH-1: COM, AGN, PLP, RRP, HH-2: COM, AGN, PLP, RRP, SBG, PGM, GUF, HH-3: COM, AGN, MAL, AAF, HH-4: COM, AGN, MAL, AAF, SBG, PGM, GUF) were extracted using SDE and their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects were measured by using DPPH radical and SLO, respectively. As a result, HH-2 showed moderate DPPH radical scavenging activity (68.24 %) and the strongest SLO inhibitory activity (83.96 %) at 100 μg/mL. Moreover, HH-2 of four different prescriptions significantly inhibited NO production on LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells in a dose-dependent manner without considerable cell cytotoxicity at range of 2.0 ~ 50 μg/mL. Additionally, HH-2 also effectively suppressed the production of PGE2 and IL-6, which are responsible for promoting the inflammatory process. Major volatile components of HH-2 were identified as eugenol, paeonol, butyl phthalide, β-eudesmol and butylidene dihydrophthalide by GC-MS analysis. Thus, these results suggest that HH-2 may be useful as a potential source of anti-inflammatory agents in herbal medicinal cosmetics.

Key Words

Cnidium officinale Makino, Angelica gigas Nakai, four different herbal medicinal prescriptions, volatile flavor extract, anti-inflammatory

김해종 Hae Jong Kim , 이유리 You Ree Lee , 호앙구엔 Dung Hoang Nguyen , 이향복 Hyang Bok Lee , 김은기 Eun-ki Kim

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Abstract

Effects of Kenpaullone, a specific inhibitor of GSK3β, on melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells and human melanocytes were investigated. Kenpaullone showed a melanogenesis stimulation activity in a concentration-dependent manner in murine B16 melanoma cells and human melanocytes without any significant effects on cell proliferation. Tyrosinase activity was increased 48 h after treatment of B16 cells with Kenpaullone. The protein expression level of tyrosinase was dose-dependently enhanced after the treatment with Kenpaullone. At the same time, the expression level of tyrosinase mRNA was also increased after addition of Kenpaullone. The stimulatory effect of Kenpaullone mainly resulted from increased expression of tyrosinase. These findings suggest that the application of GSK3β inhibitors may be a potential therapeutic agent for the treatment of hypopigmentation disorder.

Key Words

GSK3β, melanogenesis, tyrosinase, vitiligo, kenpaullone

박창민 Chang-min Park , 정민석 Min-seok Joung , 고두진 Du-jin Ko , 백기엽 Kee-yoeup Paek , 최종완 Jong-wan Choi

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Abstract

The Echinacea, which has been commonly known as a species of composite herb of dicotyledonous plant, has been used in native American traditional medicine for the treatment of diseases like colds or other infections in North America. We artificially cultured the adventitious roots of Echinacea angustifolia using the bioreactor culture system from Echinacea angustifolia and evaluated the efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient for skin care. Several studies previously have reported neogenesis, wound healing and inflammatory inhibition effect of Echinacea angustifolia but other efficacies were not well known. In the present study, we investigated the cosmetic efficacy to know applicable value of adventitious roots cultured from Echinacea angustifolia as a cosmetic ingredient. The adventitious roots extract of Echinacea angustifolia has superior anti-oxidant effect and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory effect, compared to natural Echinacea angustifolia. These results indicate that the adventitious roots extract cultured from Echinacea angustifolia presents a new possibility of being applicable to skin care and anti-wrinkle products as a cosmetic ingredient.

Key Words

Echinacea angustifolia, matrix metalloproteinase, anti-oxidant, collagenase

정택규 Taek Kyu Jung , 김영백 Young Back Kim , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

The new sunscreen agent, methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane, is manufactured as polymeric particles with an organic/inorganic hybrid composition. We have already reported the manufacturing method, physical properties, and sunprotection effects of methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane. In this study, we evaluated the photochemical properties and photostabilities of methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane that has the same functional group as a typical organic sunscreen agent, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC). Using the correlation of UV absorbance and fluorescence, we studied photostabilizers to enhance the photostability of methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane. Finally, we confirmed that octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine were good photostabilizers for methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane.

Key Words

sunscreen agent, organic-inorganic hybrid, photostability, photostabilizer, methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane

이소헌 So Hun Lee , 박선희 Sun Hee Park , 이강혁 Kang Hyuk Lee , 박수진 Soo Jin Park , 김영희 Young Heui Kim

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Abstract

In order to investigate the possibility of Inonotus obliquus extract as an active ingredient for wrinkle-care cosmetics, we prepared 70 % ethanolic extract of Inonotus obliquus and measured its DPPH radical scavenging activity and elastase inhibitory activity. We also evaluated the effect of Inonotus obliquus extract on expression of MMPs and HAS-2 in fibroblast and HaCaT cell, respectively. Inonotus Obliquus extract showed DPPH radical scavenging activity and elastase inhibitory activity in a dose-dependant manner (SC₅₀ = 91 μg/mL, IC₅₀=124 μg/mL). Inonotus obliquus extract inhibited the expression of MMP-1 mRNA 50 ~ 79 % at concentrations of 5 ~ 25 μg/mL, and reduced the expression of MMP-2 around 20 % at a concentration of 10 μg/mL. And it also reduced the expression of MMP-9 54 ~ 70 % in tconcentrations of 5 to 25 μg/mL. Furthermore, Inonotus obliquus extract increased HAS-2 mRNA expression in a dose-dependent manner in concentrations of 5 to 25 μg/mL without cytotoxicity. These results suggested that Inonotus Obliquus extract could be useful as an active ingredient for wrinkle-care cosmetics.

Key Words

Inonotus obliquus, antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, MMPs, HAS-2

홍정섭 Jeong-sup Hong , 임정현 Jeong-hyeon Lim , 김강현 Kang-hyun Kim , 박명규 Myeong-kyu Park , 조기연 Ki-yeon Jo , 박길종 Gil-jong Park , 정택규 Taek-kyu Jung , 김자영 Ja-young Kim , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

Existing organic UV protection materials seem to be problematic due to their penetration and irritation to skin. Inorganic UV protection materials are also at issue for safety of their nano-type transformation. Therefore, the recent studies of UV protection materials have been focused not only on the effectiveness but also on their safety. One of the UV protection materials in study which have higher safety is the organic-inorganic conjugation type UV protection material. Previously, we have reported the manufacturing process, physical property and UV protection efficiency of methoxychinnamidoprophy poloysilsesquixan as a new cross-linked polymer type UV protection material. In this study, we have evaluated the effect of the methoxychinnamidoprophy poloysilsesquixan on embryo-fetal development in SD rats. This study is expected to show some definite information related to the effect on pregnancy or embryo-fetal abnormality in case of the clinical exposure of the methoxychinnamidoprophy poloysilsesquixan.

Key Words

reproductive developmental toxicity, embryo-fetal developmental toxicity, UV screening agent, methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane

이근하 Keun Ha Lee , 조영롱 Young Long Cho , 주철규 Chul Gue Joo , 주연정 Yeon Jeong Joo , 권순상 Sun Sang Kwon , 안수미 Soo Mi Ahn , 오수진 Su Jin Oh , 노호식 Ho Sik Rho , 박청 Chung Park

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Abstract

In this study, to evaluate the antioxidative activities and anti-inflammatory effects of kaempferol and its rhamnosides, we performed the free radical scavenging assay, ROS inhibition assay and TARC (thymus and activation- regulated chemokine) assay. Also, we studied physiological activity of kaempferol and its rhamnosides (α-rhamnoisorobin, afzelin, kaempferitn) by structure-activity relations. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities were determined with kaempferol (62.5 μM) and α-rhamnoisorobin (50.0 μM) but afzelin and kaempferitrin did not show free radical scavenging activities. Kaempferol showed a 97.5, 57.8, 47.8 % inhibition of ROS (reactive oxygen species) generated at concentrations of 10, 50 and 100 μM, compared to control (100 %). α-rhamnoisorobin showed a 93.1, 59.1 and 41.4 % inhibition of ROS at the same concentration. We investigated the inhibitory effects of kaempferol and its rhamnosides on TARC expression. Kaempferol showed a 48.8, 5.5 and 4.4 % inhibition of TARC generated at 10, 50 and 100 μM, compared to control. α-Rhamnoisorobin showed a 88.1, 19.0 and 1.0 % inhibition of TARC generated at the same concentration. In conclusion, these results indicate that kaempferol and α-rhamnoisorobin have good antioxidative activities and anti-inflammatory effects that could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for anti-aging and anti-inflammation.

Key Words

kaempferol, kaempferol rhamnosides, antioxidative activity, anti-inflammatory effect, functional cosmetics

김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 채교영 Kyo Young Chae , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative and inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase of Hippophae rhamnoides (H. rhamnoides) leaf extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of H. rhamnoides extracts showed more effective free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC₅₀ = 4.68 μg/mL). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity (OSC₅₀) of the aglycone fraction in the luminol-dependent Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system was 0.19 μg/mL. The aglycone fraction exhibited more prominent cellular protective effects (τ₅₀, 133.3 min at 10 μg/mL) in the ¹O₂-induced photohemolysis of human erythrocytes. The inhibitory effect (IC₅₀) of the aglycone fraction on tyrosinase was 54.86 μg/mL, and more effective than arbutin known as whitening agent. These results indicate that fractions of Hippophae rhamnoides extract can be used as antioxidants in biological system, particulaly skin exposed to UV radiation by quenching and/or scavenging ¹O₂ and other ROS, and protecting cellular membranes against ROS.

Key Words

Hippophae rhamnoides, antioxidant, tyrosinase, elastase, cellular protective effect

이혜숙 Hye Suk Lee , 신경훈 Kyong Hoon Shin , 류근석 Geun Seok Ryu , 지경엽 Kyung Yup Jee , 조인식 In Shik Cho , 김한영 Han Young Kim

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Abstract

Novel whitening agents were prepared using peptide-Natural origin compound derivatives. The peptide could be an antagonist of MC1R and Natural origin compound were well-known material as a Tyrosinase inhibitor. We also suggest the new assay method which could evaluate the Antagonistic effectiveness to MC1R using cAMP signaling pathway. 24 candidates were synthesized and 11 peptide derivatives were selected by cAMP assay method. To evaluate cAMP assay, the selected peptide derivatives were assayed to evaluate their melanogensis inhibitory activity. At this work, we could know that the sequences which include -RW- have a melanogensis inhibitory activity, and cAMP assy could use as a evaluating method of MC1R antagonist. But, to evaluate the whitening activity of some material, cross-checking with melanin inhibitory assay method was recommended.

Key Words

α-MSH, MC1R, antagonist, cAMP, melanogenesis

김선경 Sun Kyong Kim , 김영소 Young So Kim , 주경미 Kyung-mi Joo , 김은주 Eun Joo Kim , 이지은 Jieun Lee , 채병근 Byung Gun Chae , 조준철 Jun Cheol Cho , 한상훈 Sang Hoon Han

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Abstract

Since minerals are in ionic forms in aqueous phase (like deep sea water), it is very hard to incorporate concentrated minerals in gel like cosmetic formulations which are generally composed of carbomer or acrylates polymer. In this study, we invented a salt-resistant network formulation made of silicon copolyol. It was found that the network formulation traps minerals (especially from marine) in a mesh-like silicone copolyol structure. Since the mineral-containing formulation makes a very thin film on the skin, minerals could be easily absorbed into stratum corneum. In 6 weeks in vivo test, it was found that the novel mineral formulation increased the amounts of amino acids, major components of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), as well as levels of minerals. It was also found that the moisture contents and the brightness of the skin increased.

Key Words

mineral, silicon copolyol network film, skin-brightening