Nanoemulsions: a Novel Vehicle for Cosmetics 나노에멀젼: 화장품을 위한 새로운 제형
조완구 Wan Goo Cho
37(1) 1-21, 2011
Title
Nanoemulsions: a Novel Vehicle for Cosmetics 나노에멀젼: 화장품을 위한 새로운 제형
조완구 Wan Goo Cho
DOI:
Abstract
This review describes several kinds of emulsification methods for nanoemulsions and the application of nanoemulsions. Nanoemulsion droplet sizes fall typically in the range of 20 ∼ 200 nm and show narrow size distributions. Although most of the publications on either oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) nanoemulsions have reported their formation by dispersion or high-energy emulsification methods, an increased interest is observed in the study of nano-emulsion formation by condensation or low-energy emulsification methods based on the phase transitions that take place during the emulsification process. Phase behaviour studies have shown that the size of the droplets is governed by the surfactant phase structure (bicontinuous microemulsion or lamellar) at the inversion point induced by either temperature or composition. Studies on nanoemulsion formation by the phase inversion temperature (PIT) method have shown a relation between minimum droplet size and complete solubilization of the oil in a microemulsion bicontinuous phase independently of whether the initial phase equilibrium is single or multiphase. Due to their small droplet size nanoemulsions possess stability against sedimentation or creaming with Ostwald ripening forming the main mechanism of nanoemulsion breakdown. An application of nanoemulsions is the preparation of nanoparticles using a polymerizable monomer as the disperse phase where nanoemulsion droplets act as nanoreactors, cosmetics and controlled drug delivery. In this review, we mainly focus on the cosmetics.
A Study on the Makeup Trend of Digital Communication Environment 디지털 커뮤니케이션 환경의 메이크업 트렌드 연구
방기정 Kee-jung Barng
37(1) 23-36, 2011
Title
A Study on the Makeup Trend of Digital Communication Environment 디지털 커뮤니케이션 환경의 메이크업 트렌드 연구
방기정 Kee-jung Barng
DOI:
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to make theoretical examinations into the makeup trend shown in digital communication environment and thereby determine potential associations of makeup trend with digital communication environment and characterize said trend, so that it can provide reference materials required for follow-up studies. This study comes to the following findings: First, it is found that there are sociocultural characteristics of digital communication environment, such as interactivity, technology-orientedness, sentiment-orientedness and mixture of time and space. Secondly, it is found that trends developed in makeup fall categorically into interactivity, virtuality, amusement and mobility. Thirdly, it is found that each type of digital communication adopts a mixture and juxtaposition of contemporary styles or categories with traditional ones through eclectic combination based on open-minded and horizontal ideas. Fourthly, it is found that a trend from digital communication environment doesn't coincide perfectly with any makeup trend, but the former trend works interactively and organically with the latter trend on the basis of homogeneity and similarity within a general framework that represents external esthetics of human being. With the creation of digital communication environment, our contemporary society forms as the complex phenomena of digital society in a combination and destruction of different categories beyond any certain international boundary, so that a hybrid tendency appears in contemporary makeup trend as well. Based on these findings, this study has its implications in the sense that it gives a new viewpoint based on design, formative characteristics and expression styles of makeup, and also provides useful reference materials for related industrial sectors.
Key Words
makeup, trend, digital communication, trend makeup
Rheological Characterization of Aqueous Scleroglucan Systems for Cosmetics 고분자수용액상에서의 스클레로글루칸의 레올로지 특성
김도훈 Do-hoon Kim , 임형준 Hyung Jun Lim , 오성근 Seong-geun Oh
37(1) 37-42, 2011
Title
Rheological Characterization of Aqueous Scleroglucan Systems for Cosmetics 고분자수용액상에서의 스클레로글루칸의 레올로지 특성
김도훈 Do-hoon Kim , 임형준 Hyung Jun Lim , 오성근 Seong-geun Oh
DOI:
Abstract
The rheological properties of the aqueous solution of scleroglucan industrially produced by Sclerotium rolfsii at concentrations ranging from 0.1 % to 2 % (w/w) were determined by using brookfield viscometer and rheometer. Gel matrices of scleroglucans were stable over a wide range of pH and ionic strength in the aqueous medium. In the oil dispersion with phytosqualane in oil phase and three kinds of thickening agent in aqueous phase, scleroglucan showed the highest dispersion properties. The synergistic effect between scleroglucan and locust bean gum was also examined. The highest viscosity was obtained for the solution mixture at scleroglucan/locust bean gum weight ratio of 5 : 5. The results of this study suggest the potential of scleroglucan as thickner for a wide variety of cosmetic formulations.
Optimization of Nanoencapsulation Process for Azelaic Acid-Milk Nano Powder and Acne Nanocosmetics Azelaic Acid 함유 밀크 나노분말과 여드름 나노화장품을 위한 나노캡슐의 최적화 공정
김동명 Dongmyong Kim , 최지은 Jieun Choi , 김덕훈 Duckhoon Kim , 이준탁 Juntack Lee
37(1) 43-53, 2011
Title
Optimization of Nanoencapsulation Process for Azelaic Acid-Milk Nano Powder and Acne Nanocosmetics Azelaic Acid 함유 밀크 나노분말과 여드름 나노화장품을 위한 나노캡슐의 최적화 공정
김동명 Dongmyong Kim , 최지은 Jieun Choi , 김덕훈 Duckhoon Kim , 이준탁 Juntack Lee
DOI:
Abstract
The conditions in fluid-bed processor for nanoencapsulation of azelaic acid-milk nano powder for acne nanocosmetics were optimized by response surface methodology (RSM). The maximum value of yield was 70.97 %. The yield was appreciably influenced by inlet air temperature, atomizing pressure, and feeding speed. The particle size increased with an increase in the feeding speed and a decrease in the atomizing pressure. The elution rate in saline solutions was appreciably influenced by inlet air temperature and atomizing pressure. The moisture content increased with higher atomizing pressure, which was demonstrated to be similar to the nanoencapsulation characteristics related to water activity. The Hunter’s L and b values increased with an increase in the inlet air temperature. The optimum conditions estimated by RSM for the maximized values of yield, moisture content, particle size and elution rate in skin suitability were 67 ~ 73 ℃ of inlet air temperature, 0.6 ~ 0.8 mL/min feeding speed and 1.8 ~ 2.0 kg/cm2 of atomizing pressure, respectively. These estimated values were in agreement with those measured by real experiments.
A Study on the Stability of DOPC Liposome 염의 농도에 따른 DOPC 리포좀의 안정성에 관한 연구
원두현 Doo Hyun Won , 김선영 Sun Young Kim , 임규남 Gyu Nam Lim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park
37(1) 55-60, 2011
Title
A Study on the Stability of DOPC Liposome 염의 농도에 따른 DOPC 리포좀의 안정성에 관한 연구
원두현 Doo Hyun Won , 김선영 Sun Young Kim , 임규남 Gyu Nam Lim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park
DOI:
Abstract
In this study, DOPC liposomes were prepared with distilled water, phosphate buffer and phosphate buffered saline to evaluate the effects of salt on the stability of DOPC liposome. The changes in physical properties (like particle size and zeta potential) of liposome were measured after adding the salt. Liposomes were diluted 40 times and 80 times with hydration solvent to confirm the effect of dilution. Consequently, the stability of liposome was maintained up to 40 times dilution with hydration solvent. The liposome that prepared with distilled water was diluted with distilled water, phosphate buffer and phosphate buffered saline, and the liposome that prepared with phosphate buffer was diluted with phosphate buffer and phosphate buffered saline to evaluate the salt-induced changes in particle size and zeta potentia. As results, the particle size increased slightly and zeta potential became closer to 0 when the salt concentration was increased. In conclusion, particle size and zeta potential of liposome could be reasonable factors to evaluate the stability of liposome. In addition, we suggest that salt concentration of hydration solvent has a significant effect on the stability of liposome.
Study on the Antioxidant Activity of Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii Extract 이질풀 추출물의 항산화 효능에 관한 연구
이선영 Sun Young Lee , 김현주 Hyun Ju Kim , 최신욱 Shin Wook Choi
37(1) 61-66, 2011
Title
Study on the Antioxidant Activity of Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii Extract 이질풀 추출물의 항산화 효능에 관한 연구
이선영 Sun Young Lee , 김현주 Hyun Ju Kim , 최신욱 Shin Wook Choi
DOI:
Abstract
Antioxidant activity of Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract was evaluated by DPPH free radical scavenging assay. Geranium nepalense subsp. Thunbergii extract contains tannin, (-)epicatechin, kaempferitin, kaepferol -7-rhamnoside, brevifolin, corilagin, pyrogallol, ellagitannin, geraniin, gallic acid, succinic acid, quercetin, protocatechuic acid, etc. Geranium nepalense subsp. Thunbergii showed excellent antioxidant activity compared to positive control, quercetin. Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract showed a 98.33 % inhibition of DPPH radical at a concentration of 50 μg/mL. Quercetin showed a 78.05 % inhibition of DPPH radical at the same concentration. To investigate reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity, Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract was treated to human keratinocytes (HaCaT). IC50 value of Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract was 43.22 μg/mL and IC50 value of quercetin was 102.35 μg/mL. Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract showed excellent antioxidant activity. Skin irritation test and cytotoxicity test suggested that Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract is a safe antioxidant ingredient for cosmetics.
The Anti-inflammatory Effect of Green Tea Extract Against Prevotella intermedia 녹차추출물의 잇몸 질환 원인균에 대한 항염증 효능 연구
민대진 Dae Jin Min , 이성원 Sung Won Yi , 이성훈 Sung Hoon Lee , 김승섭 Seung Seob Kim , 김찬호 Chan Ho Kim , 이존환 John Hwan Lee , 배지현 Ji Hyun Bae , 김한곤 Han Kon Kim
37(1) 67-73, 2011
Title
The Anti-inflammatory Effect of Green Tea Extract Against Prevotella intermedia 녹차추출물의 잇몸 질환 원인균에 대한 항염증 효능 연구
민대진 Dae Jin Min , 이성원 Sung Won Yi , 이성훈 Sung Hoon Lee , 김승섭 Seung Seob Kim , 김찬호 Chan Ho Kim , 이존환 John Hwan Lee , 배지현 Ji Hyun Bae , 김한곤 Han Kon Kim
DOI:
Abstract
Dental bacteria can cause gum diseases, i.e. gingivitis and periodontitis, by inducing inflammation in human gingiva. Therefore, the most effective way to prevent and treat gum diseases is the control of the inflammatory reactions induced by dental bacteria. Almost all present dental care products contain anti-bacterial agents to eliminate dental bacteria. However, recent studies report that even heat-killed dental bacteria can induce the inflammation responses in oral cells. Therefore, the method using anti-bacterial agents should be improved for better anti-inflammatory effect and the effective natural anti-inflammatory substances need to be found. In addition, the mechanisms of gingival inflammation should be elucidated. In this study, we tried to find out the mechanism of the gingival inflammation and effective natural anti-inflammatory substances with human gingival epithelial cells and Prevotella intermedia which is well known as a typical dental bacteria inducing gingivitis and periodontitis. In results, Prevotella intermedia initiated the gingival inflammation response by stimulating gingival epithelial cells to release an inflammatory cytokine, IL-8. Furthermore, the inflammation by Prevotella intermedia is related to COX-2, AP-1, and TNF-α pathways. Green tea extract could effectively suppress the inflammatory responses induced by Prevotella intermedia. We find out the effective natural substance for the improvement of gum diseases by studying the mechanism of the gingival inflammation induced by dental bacteria.
Key Words
Prevotella intermedia, green tea extract, anti-inflammation, gum disease, IL-8
Antioxidant and Antiaging Effect of Ginseng Berry Extract Fermented by Lactic Acid Bacteria 유산균 발효에 의한 인삼열매 추출물의 항산화 및 항노화 효과
전지민 Ji Min Jeon , 최성규 Sung Kyu Choi , 김윤정 Yun Jeong Kim , 장수진 Su Jin Jang , 천종우 Jong Woo Cheon , 이현상 Hyun Sang Lee
37(1) 75-81, 2011
Title
Antioxidant and Antiaging Effect of Ginseng Berry Extract Fermented by Lactic Acid Bacteria 유산균 발효에 의한 인삼열매 추출물의 항산화 및 항노화 효과
전지민 Ji Min Jeon , 최성규 Sung Kyu Choi , 김윤정 Yun Jeong Kim , 장수진 Su Jin Jang , 천종우 Jong Woo Cheon , 이현상 Hyun Sang Lee
DOI:
Abstract
The effect of lactic acid bacteria-fermented ginseng berry extract (FGBE) on physiological activities was evaluated. The contents of ginsenosides Re, Rc, and Rb1 in ginseng berry extract (GBE) were increased after fermentation by lactic acid bacteria when analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography. Antioxidant activity of GBE and FGBE was also analyzed by DPPH radical scavenging activity assay and SOD-like activity assay. FGBE showed a 86.34 % inhibition of DPPH radical and a 76.82 % inhibition by SOD-like activity at a concentration of 1.00 %. GBE showed a 49.78 % inhibition of DPPH radical and a 40.80 % inhibition by SOD-like activity at the same concentration. Furthermore, procollagen type I (COL1A1) gene expression increased by 823.13 % and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α gene expression decreased by 87.88 % and 99.92 %, respectively, in human fibroblast cultured with FGBE at a concentration of 0.50 %. These results suggest that FGBE could be used as an active ingredient for functional cosmetics.
The Effect of Fragrance on the Quality of Cosmetic Products 향이 화장품 품질 평가에 미치는 영향 연구
임원철 Won Churl Lim , 김해성 Hae Sung Kim , 한상길 Sang Kil Han , 이근수 Geun Su Lee , 강기춘 Ki Choon Kang , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo
37(1) 83-90, 2011
Title
The Effect of Fragrance on the Quality of Cosmetic Products 향이 화장품 품질 평가에 미치는 영향 연구
임원철 Won Churl Lim , 김해성 Hae Sung Kim , 한상길 Sang Kil Han , 이근수 Geun Su Lee , 강기춘 Ki Choon Kang , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo
DOI:
Abstract
Priming refers to the incidental activation of knowledge structures, such as trait concepts and stereotypes, by the current situational context. Many studies have shown that the recent use of a trait construct or stereotype, even in an earlier or unrelated situation, carries over for a time to exert an unintended, passive influence on the interpretation of behavior. Recent researches have shown that attitudes and other affective reaction can be triggered automatically by the mere presence of relevant objects and events. So assuming that behavioral responses to fragrance are also represented mentally, they should also be capable of becoming automatically activated, by the same principles that govern the development of automaticity of other representations. On the basis of this theory, this study examined the effect of fragrance on the quality of cosmetic products.
Deficiency of collagen regeneration, denaturalization of fibers, increased melanin synthesis and reactive oxygen species are important factors inducing deterioration of healthy skin function. They induce freckles and decrease in skin elasticity. Vitamin C, vitamin A and their derivatives have been used as cosmetic ingredients for improvement of these problems but they have various problems. We have been developing the various derivatives of these ingredients. In this study, we investigated whitening effect of 3-o-cetyl-L-ascorbic acid (VCCE), a new vitamin C derivative. The VCCE inhibited melanogenesis in a dose dependent manner(44 % at 20 μg/mL) and tyrosinase expression. For 8 weeks, we also investigated skin brightening effect of VCCE on pigmented spots in UV-irradiated human skin. In results, VCCE showed a statistically significant skin whitening effect by mechanical and visual evaluation. Taken together, our findings suggest that the VCCE has potential benefits as an active ingredient for whitening cosmetics.