권경진 Kyoung Jin Kwon , 김도정 Do Jung Kim , 김상섭 Sang Seop Kim , 최유빈 Yu Bin Choi , 김미정 Mi Jeong Kim , 최명신 Myeong Sin Choi , 최보경 Bo Kyung Choi , 김동섭 Dong Sup Kim

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Abstract

The hair nourisher products are used for prevention of hair loss and classified as quasi-drug in Korea. As concerns about hair loss has been increased, the demand for hair nourisher products has been growing. It is difficult to analyze their main ingredients because they contain various ingredients including natural plant extracts, vitamins, preservatives and exfoliators. The purpose of this study was to develop and validate simultaneous analytical methods of active ingredients in hair nourisher products such as nicotinamide, tocopherol, salicylic acid, dexpanthenol and benzyl nicotinate by HPLC. The active ingredients were separated on a C18 column by using acetonitrile/ phosphate buffer as a mobile phase, and detected at UV 220, 270 and 300 nm. The calibration curve showed linearity in the range of 12.5 ∼ 800 μg/mL and the recoveries were 97.3 ∼ 103.5 % (RSD 0.9 ∼ 2.8 %) in liquid matrix and 101.9 ∼ 115.9 % (RSD 0.7 ∼ 7.7 %) in shampoo matrix. Validated method was applied to hair nourisher products obtained from distribution market. Fortunately, all samples met their criteria. This study might be expected to provide the method for determining active ingredients in hair nourisher products and lead to promote a rapid market entry.

Key Words

hair nourisher products, quasi-drug, HPLC, simultaneous analytical methods, UV-dioarray

김선영 Sun Young Kim , 김채린 Chae Rin Kim , 김현민 Hyun Min Kim , 공명 Myung Kong , 이지희 Ji Hee Lee , 이현준 Hyun Jun Lee , 임명선 Myoung Sun Lim , 조나래 Na Rae Jo , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase of Cedrela sinensis extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract (3.54 μg/mL) and aglycone fraction of extract (2.15 μg/mL) showed more excellent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC₅₀) than the activity of (+)-α-tocopherol (8.98 μg/mL). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of Cedrela sinensis extracts on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract (0.15 μg/mL) and aglycone fraction of extract (0.12 μg/mL) showed 10 times more excellent ROS scavenging activity than activity of L-ascorbic acid (1.50 μg/mL). The protective effects of fractions of Cedrela sinensis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract and aglycone fraction of extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (5 ~ 25 μg/mL). The inhibitory effect of Cedrela sinensis extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects (IC₅₀) on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of Cedrela sinensis extract (48.00 μg/mL) and aglycone fraction of extract (5.88 μg/mL). The aglycone fraction showed 40 times more remarkable tyrosinase inhibitory effect than whitening agent, arbutin (226.88 μg/mL) These results indicate that fractions of Cedrela sinensis can be used as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging ¹O₂ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The fractions of Cedrela sinensis can be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidant and whitening.

Key Words

Cedrela sinensis, antioxidative activity, whitening effect, flavonoids, cosmetics

권유빈 Yoo-bin Kwon , 유병삼 Byoung-sam , 김대신 Yoo Daeshin Kim , 문성준 Seong-joon Moon , 윤명석 Moung-seok Yoon , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

The crude ethanol extracts and their solvent-partitioned fractions derived from the leaf and twig of Viburnum dilatatum Thunb. were investigated for their 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging efficacy. The results showed that the butanol-soluble fraction (SC₅₀ = 10.30 μg/mL) exhibited higher anti-oxidant activity than the crude ethanol extract (SC₅₀ = 17.03 μg/mL) in the DPPH assay model. Then, the effects of the same extract samples on the production of nitric oxide were examined in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. Although the hexane and methylene chloride-soluble fraction showed a weak anti-oxidant activity, they exhibited potent inhibitory activity of NO production above 50 % at a concentration of 10 μg/mL. The hexane-soluble fraction also showed the inhibitory effect on mRNA expression of pro-inflammatory mediators such an TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6, iNOS and COX-2 in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7. These results suggest that the solvent extracts of Viburnum dilatatum Thunb. could be used as an anti-irritation ingredient.

Key Words

Viburnum dilatatum Thunb. extract, SLS, anti-inflammtion, anti-oxidant activity, cytokine

곽택종 Taek-jong Kwak , 장민열 Min-youl Chang , 이상민 Sang-min Lee , 박선규 Sun-kyoo Park , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

Melanin is synthesized by the melanocytes in basal layer of epidermis and distributed over all the layers of skin including corneocytes in stratum corneum, outermost layer of the epidermis. Melanin of corneocytes was stained using Fontana-Masson method and quantified by image analysis. The correlation between melanin contents and skin color value was estimated in the skin of 71 Korean women. Melanin covering area (MCA) showed good correlation with L* value and ITAo (Individual Typology Angle) (r = 0.6049, 0.6651, respectively). MCA can be used as new parameter for skin color study and has potential application for evaluating the efficacy of the skin whitening cosmetics.

Key Words

melanin, corneocyte, Fontana-Mason, skin color, melanin covering area (MCA)

김상진 Sang-jin Kim , 김영옥 Young-ok Kim , 조윤기 Yoon-ki Cho , 최원석 Won-seok Choi , 성낙도 Nack-do Sung

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Abstract

The structure-activity relationships (SARs) between a series of phenyl-2,2'-methylenebis(cyclohexane- 1,3-dione) analogues (1-22) as substrate molecules and their inhibitory activity against tyrosinase were studied quantitatively using molecular hologram quantitative structure-activity relationships (HQSARs). Based on the results, new compounds with the increased tyrosinase inhibitory activity were designed. In addition, statistically favored E-2 model (q² = 0.564 & r² = 0.929) was derived. It is predicted that the activity of the most potent one (P1) of compounds newly designed by the optimized HQSAR E-2 model was Pred.pI₅₀ = 5.48 and the predicted inhibitory activity was about 13.4 fold higher than that of the kojic acid used as standard compound.

Key Words

phenyl-2,2'-methylenebis(cyclohexane-1,3-dione) analogues, tyrosinase inhibitor, HQSAR analysis

석지현 Ji Hyun Seok , 이선영 Sun Young Lee , 채은정 Eun Jung Chae , 최신욱 Shin Wook Choi

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Abstract

In this study, we evaluated antioxidative effects and skin whitening effects of extract of Caragana sinica fermented by S. cerevisiae KCTC 7913. At first, Caragana sinica was fermented via inoculation of Saccharomyces cerevisiae KCTC 7913 and then extracted for fermented C. sinica. It has shown that more increased of melanogenesis inhibition activity in a dose-dependent manner on B16F10 melanoma cells and elevated the amount of resveratrol contents by HPLC analysis than non-fermented. Furthermore, the extract of fermented C. sinica was inhibitory effects against tyrosinase, a key enzyme of melanogenesis pathway, more than non-fermented C. sinica extract. And it did not show the skin irritation. Therefore, fermented C. sinica extracts might be used as safe cosmetic ingredients.

Key Words

fermentation, whitening, antioxidant, Caragana sinica Rehder, resveratrol

황초원 Cho Won Hwang , 심재환 Jae Wan Hwang , 김상태 Sang Tae Kim

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated effects of Monegy (mixture of Sophorae Radix, Panax ginseng, Salvia mil-tiorrhiza BUNGE) on epilate-induced hair-loss in dorsal region of C57/BL6 mice and external structure of human hair. For morphological and histological analysis in scalp of epilate-induced hair-loss animal model, we utilized several microscopic techniques, such as confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) and LAS 4000. Confocal analysis showed the distribution of FITC-conjugated Monegy and penetration depth compared with normal and control group. Furthermore, when Monegy was topically administrated onto a C57BL6 mouse, it penetrated very well. The fluo-rescence intensity was increased upto 205 and 113 folds compared to normal and control group, respectively. Also, area of fluorescence was increased to upto 255 to 127 folds compared to normal and control group. Broad scale area of fluorescence in dermis region was observed in the Monegy-treated mice. Furthermore, Monegy induced upto 75% hair repair against depilation. It might be promoted via the induction of growth factors in hair follicle.

Key Words

hair growth, confocal, hromone, hair component

박준성 Jun Seong Park , 김동현 Dong Hyun Kim , 심진섭 Jin-sup Shim , 김지성 Ji Seong Kim , 최권영 Kwon-young Choi , 김병기 Byung-gee Kim , 김덕희 Duck Hee Kim , 김한곤 Han Kon Kim

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Abstract

A rare isoflavone, 7, 8, 4'-trihydroxyisoflavone, was isolated from a 10-year-old fermented soybean food. 7, 8, 4'-trihydroxyisoflavone was isolated for the first time from a Korean fermented soybean food. Evaluation tests of biological activity showed significantly inhibition activity for free radical scavenging on both non-enzymatic (DPPH system) and enzymatic method (xanthine oxidase system). DPPH radical scavenging effect of 7, 8, 4'-trihydroxyisoflavone was similar with vitamin C in a dose-dependent manner. In xanthine oxidase (XO) system 7, 8, 4'-trihydroxyisoflavone showed superoxide radical inhibition activity of 50 % at a concentration of 6.6 ± 0.4 μM. Also, the compound significantly suppressed cellular MMP-1 formation. These results suggest that 7, 8, 4'-trihydroxyisoflavone could be developed as a potential preventive or therapeutic agent against skin aging.

Key Words

7, 8, 4'-trihydroxyisoflavone, fermented soybean, antioxidant, MMP-1, cosmetic

이찬기 Chanki-lee , 이수진 Sujin-lee , 최재욱 Jaewook-choi , 최영진 Yeongjin-choi , 한상훈 Shang-hoon Han

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Abstract

Among various make-up products, foundations are widely used to express clear and flawless skin. Foundations can be classified by its formula to 3 types, liquid foundation, powder foundation, and oil dispersion foundation. Powder foundations are easy to carry and use, so it is commonly possessed. In the R&D point of view, the developing method of powder foundations can be classified again to 3 types. Dry-process, baked-process, and the wet slurry-process. The fact that the wet slurry-process goes through either the back injection method or the front injection method is previously known. The front injection process is used as the main method in this study. We observed the quality dependence on the kind of solvent and the powder coating system. In brief, when water was used as the main solvent, the hardness increased than when volatile silicones or hydrocarbons were used. And the sensory results were shown to prefer volatile solvents (silicones or hydrocarbons) over water. Similarly, when the amino acid-coating system was applied, the hardness was shown to increase, when silicone-coating system shown no specific change. By these results, tailor-made powder foundations targeting specific customer grades can be easily produced.

Key Words

wet slurry process, front injection, powder foundation, coating powder, make-up

신경훈 Kyong-hoon Shin , 이재호 Jae Ho Lee , 류근석 Geun Seok Ryu , 지경엽 Kyung Yup Jee , 박수남 Soo Nam Park , 김재일 Jae Il Kim , 조인식 In Shik Cho , 김한영 Han-young Kim

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Abstract

Derivatives of a novel natural compunds, melanostatin (PLG-NH₂) were prepared by solid phase synthesis [1,2] and assayed to evaluate their melanogensis inhibitory activity. Also, a small library (natural compound- XLG-NH₂, natural compound-X LG-OH) was prepared with same method for increasing synthetic yield and cost-reduction. PLG-NH₂ (Proline-Leucine-Glycine-NH₂) was well-known tripeptide as its α-MSH release-inhibiting activity and tyrosinase inhibitory activity[3-5]. In order to choose best candidate for peptide derivatization, various natural compounds were screened by their tyrosinase inhibitory activity. As a result, caffeic acid and coumaric acid were selected. Most of these derivatives showed better activities than the parent natural compound, melanostatin.

Key Words

melanostatin, caffeic acid, coumaric acid, melanogenesis