조완구 Cho Wan Goo

DOI:

Abstract

The preparation and properties of emulsions stabilized by the adsorption of solid particles at the oil-water interface are reviewed. Comparison is made with the behaviour of surfactant-stabilized emulsions. Many of the properties of Pickering emulsions are attributed to the large free energy of adsorption for particles. The main differences is due to the irreversible adsorption of particles to the interface. Phase inversion from w/o (water-in-oil) to o/w (oil-in-water) can be brought by increasing the volume fraction of water. Hydrophilic particles tend to form o/w emulsion whereas hydrophobic particles form w/o emulsion. The contact angle at the oil-water interface is main parameter to decide the emulsion type. The aspects of stability of Pickering emulsions are in contrast to general emulsions in some points. The possibility using Pickering emulsions for cosmetics is also proposed.

Key Words

pickering emulsion, nano-particle, cosmetics, wettability, contact angle

이현석 Hyunsuk Lee , 김진웅 Jin-woong Kim

DOI:

Abstract

This review shows the design and the development of new CO₂-soluble hydrocarbon copolymers which can be used as effective stabilizers for successful dispersion polymerizations of bio-compatible materials in supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO₂). The basic concepts of supercritical fluid including its solvent properties and applications in polymer synthesis are described. We report the facile synthesis of highly soluble hydrocarbon based copolymers, prepared with good control via controlled free radical polymerization from readily accessible and commercially available monomers. The phase behaviour of these materials was monitored in pure CO₂ to investigate how the molecular weights and the composition of the copolymers affect their solubility in CO₂. Their activity as a stabilizer was then tested in dispersion polymerization of N-vinyl pyrrolidone in CO₂ at various reaction conditions to identify the key parameters required for a successful dispersion stabilization of growing PVP particles. Some prospective potentials of this research which can be applied in developing new polymer materials in an environmentally-friendly fashion for use in cosmetics are also discussed.

Key Words

Supercritical, polymer, surfactant, hydrocarbon, RAFT

이옥규 Ouk-kyu Lee , 이현진 Yeongmin Yoon , 윤영민 Hyun-jin Lee , 안성관 Sungkwan An

DOI:

Abstract

Recently. dyeing by harmless natural materials has received much attention due to the side-effects occurred from dyeing by synthetic dyes. In this study, we examined the effect of extracts of Pueraria thunbergiana (P. thunbergiana) roots, which are treated as natural products as well as agricultural wastes, on the hair dyeing by measuring dyeing interval, temperature, density changes, mordant and chromatic faction. The hair dyeing by the extracts significantly reduced hair damage and kept cuticle of hair softer than that by synthetic dyes. In addition, since a mordant is one of the necessary additives in dyeing, the role of a mordant was studied and concluded to be a supplementary substance based on the results that the hair dyeing by the extracts of P. thunbergiana roots alone was much darker than the others. Taken together, the data presented in this study suggest that the extracts of P. thunbergiana roots are is less damageable to hair and thus can be more safely applicable to hair dyes than that by synthetic dyes.

Key Words

extracts of P. thunbergian roots, natural dyeing, synthetic dye, mordant

신문삼 Moon Sam Shin

DOI:

Abstract

Emulsion body cleansing systems containing high levels of occlusives have recently been developed such as using insoluble crystalline hydroxy waxes, insoluble crystalline surfactant structures, encapsulated particles and smectite clay. In this study, moisturizing effect of various occlusives such as petrolatum and triglycerides was researched in emulsion body cleansing systems. The experiment shows that petrolatum has less moisturizing capacity in emulsion body cleansing systems than triglycerides. In “leave-on” products such as lotion and cream formulations, the moisturizing capacity of petrolatum is more than that of triglycerides, but in “wash-off” emulsion body cleanser of this research, different results appeared. Emulsion body cleansing systems contained high levels of anionic and amphoteric surfactants, therefore petrolatum has more solubility and less deposited amount into the skin during washing process than triglycerides.

Key Words

moisturlzing effect, occlusives, emulsion, body cleanser, surfactant

정택규 Taek Kyu Jung , 김영백 Young Back Kim , 윤태진 Tae-jin Yoon , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

DOI:

Abstract

UV-screening agents have some adverse effects that raise consumers' concern. The organic agents often cause irritation and may penetrate into human body while the inorganic agents raise aesthetic issues because they often turn opaque. Organic agents with high molecular weights and nano-sized inorganic agents have been developed respectively to minimize transdermal intrusion into human body and suppress turning opaque. Recently, we reported preparation of powdery UV-screening agents made of polysilsesquioxane, an organic-inorganic hybrid material. Powders would not penetrate into epidermis and organic-inorganic hybrid nature would suppress the opaqueness problem. In this study, we continued our research on this powdery polysilsesquioxane UV-screening agent, SESQUV, regarding its chemical composition, its synergic UV-screening effects when mixed with other organic agents, and its applicability in practical formulation. Results showed SESQUV was promising UV-screening agents useful in sunscreen formulation.

Key Words

Polysilsesquioxane. SESQUV. methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane, UV screening agent, sun protection factor

이응지 Eung-ji Lee , 배성윤 Seong-yun Bae , 남궁우 Kung-woo Nam , 이용화 Yong-hwa Lee

DOI:

Abstract

To develop natural therapeutic agents for acne vulgaris, we investigated antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects of various medicinal plant extracts. Among candidate extracts, we selected Psoralea corylifolia L. extract (AC-1) and Magnoliae officinalis extract (AC-2) which showed the relatively high antibacterial effects, and Inula helenium L. extract (ACF-1) and Chrysanthemum zawadskii var. latilobum extract (ACF-2) which showed the relatively high anti-inflammatory effects for further investigations. All of them did not show cytotoxic effects below the concentration of 50 μg/mL. The antibacterial effects of AC-1, AC-2 and extract complex (AC) against P. acnes were 2.8, 2.5 and 3.2 times higher than that of 10 % salicylic acid respectively. And the antibacterial effect of AC-2 and extract complex against S. aureus were 1.4 and 1.5 times higher than that of 10 % methylparaben respectively. Also, it was shown that ACF-1, ACF-2 and extract complex had anti-inflammatory effects. All of them exhibited inhibitory effects for the secretion of IL-8 and TNF-α from THP-1 cells activated by heat-killed P. acnes. They reduced about 27 %, 38 %, 44 % of IL-8 secretion and 90 %, 88 %, 90 % of TNF-α secretion at concentration of 50 μg/mL respectively. These results showed that the complex of medicinal plant extracts, AC-1, AC-2, ACF-1, and ACF-2, had therapeutic effects to acne vulgaris through antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. Therefore, we suggest that extract complex of AC-1, AC-2, ACF-1 and ACF-2 may be used as a useful agent for development of natural cosmetics which have therapeutic effects to acne vulgaris.

Key Words

acne vulgaris, Psoralea corylifolia L, Magnoliae officinalis, Inula helenium L, Chrysanthemum

배순민 Soon Min Bae , 안영훈 Yong Hoon Ahn , 정진교 Jin Kyo Jung , 황정근 Jeong Geun Hwang

DOI:

Abstract

Collagen is the most abundant animal protein in mammals, accounting for about 30 % of all proteins. It is present in connective tissue and contributes to the structural framework of most organs. The tripeptide (glycine-proline-hydroxyproline) with the INCI name Tripeptide-29 is main component of collagen type I. The palmitoyl tripeptide (palmitoyl-glycine-proline-hydroxyproline) with the INCI name Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29 is a synthetic material that was designed as a topical agent to stimulate collagen production. We synthesized the palmitoyl tripeptide as a potential anti-wrinkle compound. This compound has been characterized using HPLC. This compound proved, through in vitro tests, to stimulate collagen production and fibroblast proliferation. These results were very promising, so human studies were subsequently performed. We investigated the skin improvement effect of the palmitoyl tripeptide on human skin by using non-invasive instruments. We measured physiological effects such as skin wrinkles and elasticity after volunteers applied the cosmetic products for 8 weeks. We observed significant improvement in skin wrinkles and elasticity after use of the cosmetic products for 8 weeks. We concluded that the palmitoyl tripeptide had an anti-aging effect on human facial skin.

Key Words

palmitoyl tripeptide, skin wrinkles, skin elasticity, skin density, skin thickness

송민현 Minhyeon Song , 배준태 Jun Tae Bae , 이근수 Geun Su Lee , 장영학 Yong He Zhang , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

DOI:

Abstract

The water fern Azolla belongs to the Azollaceae and forms a symbiotic association with a N₂-fixing cyanobacterium, referred to as Anabaena azollae, and this association has currently been demonstrated to have potential as a nitrogen source for rice production. Because of that, Azolla fern has been used not only as organic manure in southern China and northern Vietnam for a long time but also as food for animate creatures in the underwater and decontaminant in the water. However, the phenolic compounds and active materials of Azolla have not been examined in detail in the past studies. In the present study, anti-oxidant ability test and experiment to find a particular active material of Azolla imbricata and Azolla imbricata fraction (AIF) were performed. In anti-oxidant test such as DPPH test and lipoxygenase inhibition test, the value of test represented high activities compared with authentic sample - green tea and NDGA (nordihydroguaiaretic acid). In MMP-1 test, related to collagen protection and elasticity of skin, its inhibitory effect was measured over 75 %, and the phenolic compounds of AIF related with this activity were confirmed luteolin derivatives by using FT-IR spectroscopy, element analyzer (EA) and Liquid chromatography-MASS spectroscopy.

Key Words

Azolla imbricata, phenolic compound, lipoxygenase, anti-oxidant, cosmetic ingredient

장정희 Jung-hee Jang , 이찬 Chan Lee , 김상찬 Sang-chan Kim , 정지욱 Ji-wook Chung , 박찬익 Chan-ik Park

DOI:

Abstract

Ultraviolet is the one of the main environmental factors promoting aging process via increased intracellular generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and decreased expression of endogenous antioxidant enzymes and molecules. Therefore, in this study, we tried to search for natural skin-protective antioxidant materials from marine origins (Porphyra Thalli, Laminariae japonicae thallus, Ostreae Concha, Sargassum Thallus, Undaria thallus, Haliotidis Concha, Codium thalli, Syngnathoides biaculeatus, Hippocampus, Stichopus Stichopus, Thalli, Hizikia fusiforme thalli)which exhibit free radical scavenging activity and protect against UVB-induced cytotoxicity and oxidative cell death. Free radical scavenging activity was shown in order of Undaria thallus, Sargassum Thallus, Laminariae japonicae thallus, Hippocampus, Haliotidis Concha, Ostreae Concha, Syngnathoides biaculeatus. In another experiment, UVB-induced cytotoxicity and cell death were effectively suppressed by treatment of Sargassum Thallus, Haliotidis Concha, Codium thalli, or Hippocampus water extract. Furthermore, UVB-induced cell death was mediated by intracellular accumulation or ROS, which was significantly inhibited by treatment with aforementioned extracts. The protective effect of these marine natural products seemed to be mediated by increased expression of antioxidant enzymes such as catalase, superoxide dismutase, and heme oxygenase-1. These results suggest that Sargassum Thallus, Haliotidis Concha, Codium thalli, and Hippocampus may have preventive and protective potentials as new functional cosmetics against oxidative stress-mediated skin damages and aging with antioxidant properties.

Key Words

ultraviolet, marine natural products, antioxidant, oxidative stress, skin fibroblast

김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 김은희 Eun Hee Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In the previous study, we reported the antioxidative activity, antiaging activity, antibacterial activity and moisturizing effect of cream containing Persicaria hydropiper L. extract. In this study, the components of Persicaria hydropiper L. extract were analyzed by TLC and HPLC. Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Persicaria hydropiper L. extract, showed 2 bands and 2 peaks in TLC and HPLC experiments, respectively. Two components were identified as quercetin and kaempferol. TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Persicaria hydropiper L. extract revealed 6 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 7 peaks, which were identified as quercetin, hyperin, isoquercitrin, quercitrin, kaempferol. In conclusion, with the antioxidative activity, antiaging activity, antibacterial activity and moisturizing effect reported previously, component analysis of Persicaria hydropiper L. extracts could be applicable to new cosmeceuticals.

Key Words

Persicaria hydropiper, flavonoids, component analysis, antioxidative activity, cosmetics