양희정 Hee Jung Yang , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In the previous study, the anti-oxidant activity of extract/fraction of Sueada aspparagoides (SA) and the stability test for the cream containing SA extract were investigated respectively[1,2]. In this study, the components of SA extract were analyzed by TLC, HPLC, and LC/ESI-MS/MS, ¹H-NMR. TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of SA extract revealed 5 bands (SA 1 ∼ SA 5). HPLC chromatogram of aglycone fractions obtained from deglycoylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction showed 2 bands (SAA 2 and SAA 1), which were identified as quercetin (composition ratio, 16.88 %) and kaempferol (83.12 %) in the order of elution time. Among 5 bands of TLC chromatogram, 4 bands (SA 2 ∼ SA 5) also were identified as kaempferol-3-O-glucoside (SA 2), quercetin-3-O-glucoside (SA 3), kaempferol-3-O-rutinoside (SA 4), quercetin-3-O-rutinoside (SA 5) by LC/ESI-MS/MSMS/MS, respectively. The spectrum generated for SAA 1 by LC/ESI-MS/MS in the negative ion mode also gave the ion corresponding to the deprotonated aglycone [M-H]- (285 m/z), the ¹H-NMR spectrum contained signals [δ 6.19 (1H, d, J = 1.8 Hz, H-6), δ 6.44 (1H, d, J = 1.8 Hz, H-8), δ 6.92 (2H, d, J = 9.0 Hz, H-3',5'), δ 8.04 (2H, d, J = 9.0 Hz, H-2',6')], thus SAA 1 was identified as kaempferol. SAA 2 yielded the deprotonated agycone ion [M-H]- (301 m/z), ¹H-NMR spectrum showed signals [δ 6.20 (1H, d, J = 2.0 Hz, H-6), δ 6.42 (1H, d, J = 2.0 Hz, H-8), δ 6.90 (1H, d, J = 8.6 Hz, H-5'), δ 7.55 (1H, dd, J = 8.6, 2.2 Hz, H-6'), δ 7.69 (1H, d, J = 2.2 Hz, H-2')], thus SAA 2 was identified as quercetin. In conclusion, with the anti-oxidant activity and the stability test reported previously, component analysis of SA extracts could be applicable to new cosmeceuticals.

Key Words

Suaeda asparagoides, flavonoids, LC/ESI-MS/MS, component analysis, NMR

이윤하 Yunha Lee , 김경남 Kyung Nam Kim , 선우건 Gun Sunwoo , Norbert Rick , Antje Reichnek , 최영진 Yeongjin Choi , 고승용 Seungyong Ko , 한상훈 Sanghun Han , 강학희 Hakhee Kang , 이옥섭 Oksub Lee

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Abstract

Pearlescent pigments have been widely used in cosmetic applications. Up to date; the most widely used pearl effect pigment is the mica-based pigment, which uses natural mica as the substrate that is in turn coated with metal oxide interference layer. However, when natural mica is employed as a base material the final product often has a yellowish color, mainly due to the fact that natural mica contains low levels of iron as an impurity[1,2]. This study was focused on developing a pearl pigment which might have a similar sparkling effect as snow. This effect was found to be due to its structure and purity, and this concept was also applied to development of our pearl pigments. More specifically, this invented pearl effect pigments are the mixture of glass-flake and glass-flake coated metal oxides and present the optical properties of snow matrix such as refractive index and particle size, unlike only the glass-flake or glass-flake coated metal oxides to be applied in. Using base material having similar physical properties (refractive index and particle size) as snow matrix as platelet for pearl effect pigments, these invented pigments present a three-dimensional glittering effect of the snow matrix. With this invented pigments an applied; we achieved the beauty of snow crystal from makeup products containing these pigments.

Key Words

snow, glass-flake, pearl effect, snow matrix, makeup products

이정순 Jeong-soon Lee , 마상철 Sang-chol Ma , 강기춘 Ki-choon Kang , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo

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Abstract

Cellulose nanoparticles loaded with retinyl palmitate were prepared by modified spontaneous emulsification solvent diffusion method. We used polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, and PPG-26-Buteth-26/PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil as dispersion medium. The optimum condition for particle size of cellulose nanoparticles was 1 w/v% ethyl cellulose with 3 w/v% polysorbate 60 solution. And The optimum condition for loading amount of retinyl palmitate of cellulose nanoparticles was 2 w/v% ethyl cellulose with 1 w/v% polysorbate 60 solution. Also, we found that this optimum condition can be applicable to other active compounds.

Key Words

nanoparticle, cellulose, retinyl palmitate, modified spontaneous emulsification solvent diffusion method, polysorbate 60

호앙구엔 Dung H. Nguyen , 민은엔 Duc T. M. Nguyen , 라련화 Lyun Hwa La , 이향복 Hyang Bok Lee , 신정현 Jung Hyun Shin , 김은기 Eun Ki Kim

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Abstract

Initial screening assay for depigmenting agents includes in vitro mushroom tyrosinase assay and antioxidant assay. Based on this screening result, melanin synthesis in melanocyte, in screened samples, is further measured. Measuring cellular melanin needs time, human resource, and skills. Therefore initial screening method should be reliable. We examined 34 Chinese herbs, correlated the screening assay methods with cellular melanin. No reliable relationship was observed between factors, indicating the limitation in the use of these assays, probably due to the complexicity of melanogenesis.

Key Words

depigmenting agents, screening, mushroom tyrosinase, antioxidant, melanin

양희정 Hee Jung Yang , 안유진 You Jin Ahn , 김재현 Jae Hyun Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Quercus glauca extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC₅₀) of extract / fractions of Quercus glauca leaf was in the order: 50 % ethanol extract (12.45 µg/mL) < ethyl acetate fraction (10.47 µg/mL) < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction (8.57 µg/mL). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of some Quercus glauca leaf extracts on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was 50 % ethanol extract (OSC50, 4.2 µg/mL) < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction (1.58 µg/mL) < ethyl acetate fraction (0.66 µg/mL). Ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Quercus glauca leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Quercus glauca leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a dose dependent manner, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (τ₅₀, 398.67 min at 50 µg/mL). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Quercus glauca leaf extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments (360 nm) as well. Two components were identified as quercetin (55.77 %), and kaempferol (44.23 %). TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Quercus glauca leaf extracts revealed 6 bands (QG1 ~ QG6), Among them, isoquercitrin (QG3), hyperin (QG4), and rutin (QG6) were identified. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on tyrosinase(IC₅₀, 73.5 µg/mL) and elastase (IC₅₀, 16.2 µg/mL) was high. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Quercus glauca can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging ¹O₂ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Quercus glauca leaf extract and inhibitory activity on tyeisinase and elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics.

Key Words

quercus glauca, flavonoid, antioxidative activity, tyrosinase, cosmetics

임지희 Ji Hee Lim , 정광선 Kwang Seon Jung , 이종성 Jongsung Lee , 정은선 Eunsun Jung , 김대경 Dae Kyung Kim , 김영수 Youngsoo Kim , 김영우 Yong-woo Kim , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated the antimicrobial and antifungal activity from the wild seaweeds of Jeju island. The active ingredients of the seaweeds were prepared by 80 % methanol extraction. Antimicrobial and antifungal activity of seaweed extracts was examined. We found that 6 plant extracts among 45 plants, namely, Codium contractum, Undaria pinnatifida, Ishige sinicola, Ishige okamurai, Ishige okamurai, Ecklonia cava, Hizikia fusiformis, Ulva fasciata, Ulva pertusa, Sargassum siliquastrum, Ecklonia kurome, Gracilaria textorii, significantly inhibited growth of harmful microorganisms. Additionally, according to DPPH assay, 2 plant extracts were found to have antioxidant activities. Taken together, these results suggest the possibility that 11 plant extracts can be utilized as an antimicrobial agent.

Key Words

seaweed, antimicrobial activity, antifungal activity, DPPH, antioxidant

신문삼 Moon Sam Shin

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Abstract

Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate and climbazole as anti-dandruff agents widely used in cosmetics and pharmaceutics were micronized using supercritical fluid. Supercritical carbon dioxide was selected due to relatively low critical temperature and critical pressure. Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate and climbazole were chosen because of their solubility in supercritical carbon dioxide. The rapid expansion of supercritical solution (RESS) experiments involved investigations of the effect of pressure, temperature on particle size and morphology.

Key Words

supercritical fluid, micronization, anti-dandruff, IPBC, climbazole

이주은 Ju Eun Lee , 김소영 So Young Kim , 김수연 Su Yeon Kim , 오미희 Mi Hee Oh , 윤혜영 Hye Young Yun , 백광진 Kwang Jin Baek , 권년수 Myoun Soo Kwon , 김동석 Dong Seok Kim

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Abstract

Elastin is an important component of elastic fibers in the skin. Recently, many studies have reported that elastin is also involved in inhibiting or repairing wrinkle formation, although collagen is a major factor in the skin wrinkle formation. Elastase is a metalloproteinase which acts on degradation of elastin. It is known that elastase activity is increased by ultraviolet (UV) B radiation. Thus, increased elastase activity could be the major reason for skin elasticity reduction and winkle formation. Tannic acid is a polyphenol found in various fruits and nuts. This molecule has a potent ability to eliminate reactive oxygen species and reactive nitrogen species. In the present study, we investigated whether tannic acid has effects on elastase activity and tropoelastin synthesis. Our results showed that tannic acid reduced elastase activity significantly in a dose-dependent manner. However, the expression of tropoelastin protein and mRNA was not significantly affected by tannic acid. From these results, we suggest that tannic acid may contribute to block tortuosity of elastic fibers by inhibiting elastase. Thus, tannic acid might be developed for a possible agent to inhibit skin aging.

Key Words

human fibroblast, elastase, elastin, tannic acid, tropoelastin

김동현 Dong Hyun Kim , 최현경 Hyun Kyung Choi , 조석철 Seok Cheol Cho , 국무창 Moo Chang Kook , 박장서 Chang Seo Park

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Abstract

It is known that Spirulina extracts have strong antioxidant activities since it contains diverse antioxidants such as phycocyanin, β-carotene, vitamin E and other carotenoids. In order to enhance antioxidant activity of Spirulina, Spirulina extracts were fermented by Lactobacillus plantarum P23 and Bacillus subtilis TP6. The resulting fermented supernatants were analyzed for their antioxidant activities by DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) method. The results indicated that fermentation process significantly enhanced total antioxidant activities. Increased levels of UV-induced TNF-α and IL-6 were reduced back to normal level even by treatment of all three of the Spirulina extracts. The result suggested that the fermentation process enhanced the anti-inflammatory activities at least ten times higher than the simple extract. Zymography is used to determine the expression of UV-induced MMP. Spirulina extracts fermented by Bacillus subtilis TP6 were found to suppressed the expression of MMPs. Also treatment with the fermented Spirulina extracts resulted in an increase of collagen synthesis in vitro. In conclusion, the fermented Spirulina extracts are expected to be used as anti-aging cosmeceuticals.

Key Words

Spirulina, antioxidant, Lactobacillus plantarum, Bacillus subtilis, anti-aging

양희정 Hee Jung Yang , 김은희 Eun Hee Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase, and component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities (FSC₅₀) of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf were in the order: 50 % ethanol extract (7.05 µg/mL) < ethyl acetate fraction (3.36 µg/mL) < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction (3.24 µg/mL). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were 50 % ethanol extract (OSC₅₀, 2.17 µg/mL) < ethyl acetate fraction (0.64 µg/mL) < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction (0.39 µg/mL). Aglycone fraction showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Psidium guajava leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 10 µg/mL), particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (τ₅₀, 107.5 min at 1 µg/mL). Aglycone fraction obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Psidium guajava leaf extracts, showed 1 band in TLC and 1 peak in HPLC experiments (360 nm). One component was identified as quercetin. TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Psidium guajava leaf extract revealed 5 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 5 peaks, which were identified as quercetin 3-O-gentobioside (10.32 %), quercetin 3-O-β-D-glucoside (isoquercitin, 13.30 %), quercetin 3-O-β-D-galactoside (hyperin, 11.34 %), quercetin 3-O-α-L-arabinoside (guajavarin, 19.70 %), quercetin 3-O-β-L-rhamnoside (quercitrin, 45.33 %) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of Psidium guajava leaf extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. Inhibitory effects (IC₅₀) on tyrosinase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50 % ethanol extract (149.67 µg/mL) < ethylacetate fraction (30.67 µg/mL) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (17.10 µg/mL). Inhibitory effects (IC₅₀) on elastase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50 % ethanol extract (6.60 µg/mL) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (5.66 µg/mL) < ethylacetate fraction (3.44 µg/mL). These results indicate that extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging ¹O₂ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

Key Words

Psidium guajava leaf, flavonoid, antioxidative activity, elastase, cosmetics