박장서 Chang Seo Park

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Abstract

Epidermis is one of the most dynamic organs in the human body. Multiple layers of keratinocytes in the epidermis continuously undergo proliferation, differentiation, and desquamation cycles, which is the bases of maintaining the epidermal homeostasis. Epidermal homeostasis eventually leads to establish and maintain permeability barrier homeostasis, the most important function of the epidermis. The permeability barrier is located in the stratum corneum. Tightly coordinated regulations are required for the sustained normal barrier function. Extensive studies have established that several nuclear hormone liposensors, including peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor a PPARa, PPARb/d, PPARg and LXRs are expressed in keratinocyte. Activation of PPARs and LXRs could provide a mechanism to coordinate the formation of the corneocytes and extracellular lipid membranes that constitute the stratum corneum. Topical application of PPAR/LXR ligands to murine skin results in the increased expression of keratinocyte differentiation-related proteins, such as involucrin, loricrin, profilaggrin, and trans-glutaminase 1, which would stimulate cornified envelope formation. In conclusion, topical application of ligands or activators of PPAR/LXR as an epidermotherapy would be a promising option to deal dry skin conditions such as atopy.

Key Words

epidermal homeostasis, permeability barrier, dry skin, keratinocyte, PPAR/LXR

조완구 Wan Goo Cho , 양희정 Hee Jung Yang , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

Formation of oil-in-water nano-emulsions has been studied in oil/hydrogenated lecithin/water systems by two shear different instrument. The influence of surfactant concentration on nano-emulsion droplet size and stability has been studied. Droplet size was determined by dynamic light scattering, and nano-emulsion stability was evaluated by measuring the variation of droplet size as a function of time. The results obtained showed that the breakdown process of nano-emulsions studied could be attributed to Ostwald ripening. An increase of nano-emulsion instability with increase in surfactant concentration was found in the droplet size in the range of 100 ∼ 200 nm, however, an decrease of instability was found in the droplet size in the range of 300 ∼ 400 nm.

Key Words

hydrogenated lecithin, nano-emulsion, microfluidizer, Ostwald ripening, dynamic light scattering

강기춘 Ki-choon Kang , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo , 이청희 Cheong-hee Lee , 김태훈 Tae-hoon Kim , 마상철 Sang-chol Ma , 임원철 Noh-hee Jeong , 정노희

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Abstract

This study is on encapsulation of a new whitening agent, LA-PEG using solid lipid nanoparticle (SLN) method, one of nanoparticle preparation method. Classical method has high capsulation efficiency for hydrophobic compounds but has demerit of low capsulation efficiency (2 ∼ 3 %) for hydrophilic compounds. Purpose of this study is preparation of SLN that has higher skin penetration effect compared with general liposome, and also has higher encapsulation efficiency of hydrophilic compounds. For SLN preparation, coconut oil, macadamia oil, and jojoba oil were used. As a result, SLN preparation using coconut oil (include LA-PEG) has the most high encapsulation efficiency and also has the smallest average particle size (270 nm). SLN prepared with macadamia oil and 1 % of Tween 60 has the largest particle size. Base made with coconut oil and 2 % of Tween 60 showed the fastest release and base made with macadamia oil and 2 % of Tween 20 showed the latest release.

Key Words

solid lipid nano-particle, hydrophilic drugs, hydrophobic drugs, encapsulation efficiency, LA-PEG

이근하 Keun Ha Lee , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase of Geranium nepalense extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities (FSC₅₀) of extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense were in the order: 50 % ethanol extract (15.0 μg/mL) < ethylacetate fraction (4.5 μg/mL). < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction (0.9 μg/mL). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of some Geranium nepalense extracts on ROS generated in Fe³⁺- EDTA/H₂O₂ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescense assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were 50 % ethanol extract (OSC₅₀, 0.23 μg/mL) < ethylacetate fraction (0.16 μg/mL) < deglycosylated flavonoid fraction (0.04 μg/mL). Deglycosylated flavonoid fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Geranium nepalense extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (τ₅₀, 676.7 min at 50 μg/mL). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on tyrosinase (IC₅₀, 70.0 μg/mL) and elastase (IC₅₀, 19.9 μg/mL) was very high. Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl-acetate fraction among the Geranium nepalense extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments (370 nm). Two components were identified as quercetin (composition ratio, 15.3 %), kaempferol (82.8 %). These results indicate that extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging ¹O₂ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Geranium nepalense extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

Key Words

Geranium nepalense, flavonoid, antioxidative, elastase, cosmetics

이대우 Dae-woo Lee , 김영진 Young-jin Kim , 김영실 Young-sil Kim , 엄상용 Sang-yong Eom , 김종헌 Jong-heon Kim

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Abstract

Acyranthes bidentata has been used as anti-arrthritic, aphrodisiac, anti-viral, anti-spasmodic, anti-hypertensive, anti-coagulant and anti-tumor agent. In this study, we evaluated anti-inflammatory effect of polysaccharide extract from Acyranthes bidentata. Acyranthes bidentata polysaccaride decreased IL-1α, IL-6, COX-2, and total NO synthesis. Our results point to the potential use of Acyranthes bidentata polysaccaride as a cosmeceutical agent for inflammatory cutaneous symptoms.

Key Words

Acyranthes bidentata, anti-inflammation, IL-1α, IL-6, COX-2

김진국 Jin Guk Kim , 김경태 Kyoung Tae Kim , 박선희 Sun Hee Park , 이방용 Bang Yong Lee , 김기호 Ki Ho Kim , 김영희 Young Heui Kim

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Abstract

Ceramides, a constituent of stratum corneum lipids, play a crucial role in the formation and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier. As in many other skin disorders, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis show decrease and transformation of the ceramides. The application of ceramide has been demonstrated to be efficient in the repair of these skin disorders. Nevertheless, natural ceramides are still too expensive and small in quantity to be used as a cosmetic ingredient. Although a lot of pseudo-ceramides have been developed and on the market until now, those pseudo-ceramides did not fully meet the consumer’s needs, therefore, there is still a demand for a novel pseudo-ceramides. We synthesized a novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 from 2-(2-amino-ethylamino)-ethanol (AEEA), which was characterized by structures having both amide bonds and hydroxyl groups as hydrophilic units, as well as two long alkyl chains. We formulated emulsion with BPC-16, cholesterol, stearic acid, and other components to make an emulsion. These emulsion showed a typical optical anisotropy on cross-polarized microscopy. This ‘Maltese cross’ appearance is a characteristic figure observed in concentric lamellar emulsion under cross-polarized microscopy. In cytotoxicity assay using MTT in monolayer and three dimension (3D) cell culture, a BPC-16 showed only negligible cytotoxicity up to the effective concentration for barrier repair and moisturization (less than 10 mM). In the measurement of TEWL, this BPC-16 showed significant recovery of water-retaining properties when it was topically applied to either SDS-induced dry skin or normal skin compared to that of base cream. This novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 showed as effective in skin barrier repair and moisturization as natural ceramides.

Key Words

skin barrier, ceramide, moisturization, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), desquamation

김민기 Minkee Kim , 정혜진 Hye Jin Jung , 장이섭 Ih Seop Chang

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Abstract

Although phthalates aren’t used as an cosmetic ingredient, some cosmetics especially nail lacquer, hair spray, and perfume still have phthalates. This is mainly caused by contamination and carryover during manufacturing process, so analysis of phthalates in those cosmetics has became a very important thing for quality-assurance (Q.A). The main phthalates under debate are diethyl phthalate (DEP), dibutyl phthalate (DBP), and bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) in domestic market. Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) coupled with solvent extraction and concentration has been used for ppm level and sub ppm level analysis of phthalates. It requires much time and cost to use mass spectrometric detector and to prepare the test solution. Moreover analysis of phthalates at low concentrations is difficult because of contamination which results in wrong analytical results. In the present study, we showed a simple method using gas chromatography-flame ionization detector (GC-FID) which has fast analysis time, minimum use of solvent, reduced sample preparation steps for minimizing contamination and quantitative range of 2 ∼ 50 μg/g (ppm) in products. Consequently, this method will be proper for Q.A analysis in related companies.

Key Words

phthalates, dibutyl phthalate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate, cosmetic, GC-FID

이소미 So Mi Lee , 정혜진 Hye Jin Jeong , 김한곤 Han Kon Kim

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Abstract

No matter how small amount of heavy metals it may be cause skin allergies through percutaneous adsorption when existing in cosmetic products as impurities. In order to develop a highly sensitive method for simultaneous determination of Pb²⁺, Fe²⁺, Cu²⁺, Ni²⁺, Zn²⁺, Co²⁺, Cd²⁺, and Mn²⁺ in coloring agents and cosmetic products with rapidity and accuracy, we carried out the determination on ion chromatography. All of these metals are well separated through a bifunctional ion-exchange column (IonPac CS5A) and detected by post-column reaction and spectrophotometric detection. The calibration graphs are linear (r² > 0.999) in the range 0.1 ~ 1000 μg/mL. Detection limits for 200 μL of sample solution are at the level of μg/L, which is sufficient for judging whether the product is safe or not. The relative standard deviations (RSDs) of the retention time and the peak area are less than 0.21 and 1.24 %, respectively. The recovery rates are 97 ~ 104 %. The new method was applied to analyze the amount of heavy metals which were contained in 22 cosmetic products and 11 coloring agents.

Key Words

heavy metals, cosmetic products, ion chromatography, simultaneous determination, coloring agents

문경진 Kyoung Jin Mun , 김소운 So Un Kim , 문주희 Ju Hee Mun , 김수진 Soo Jin Kim , 김아영 A Young Kim , 문태기 Tae Kee Moon , 김남수 Nam Soo Kim

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Abstract

Sunscreen is usually used by people when they are at the beach or outdoor swimming pools. Since the existing methods of and standards for measuring the effects of blocking ultra violet rays do not employ water resistance test methods, the establishment of a water resistance SPF test method is required. In this study, to standardize the SPF evaluation methods for a water resistant sunscreen, proposed measurement methods in this study were compared with those of foreign countries. Selected water resistance SPF experiments confirmed the product’s suitability and a verification test was then conducted by establishing the variables of water resistance SPF measurement methods. In the comparative experiment on water resistance SPF given a water temperature of 23 ∼ 32 degrees centigrade showed that temperature did not have any statistically significant effect on water resistance SPF. The changing water flow also did not have any statistically significant effect on the water resistance SPF. Therefore, continuous 20 min water circulation is deemed appropriate as an alternative to the subject’s usual activity.

Key Words

sunscreen, SPF, water resistance, comparative experiment, SPF measurement methods

한상길 Sang Kil Han , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

Interests in natural products have been gradually increasing as well-being era has arrived. Panax ginseng was chosen since it represents Korean traditional medicine as its effect on many age-related symptoms. Panax ginseng absolute essential oil was prepared and analyzed for its main components. Ginseng absolute oil was extracted from Panax ginseng using organic solvent of hexane and ethanol with the yield of 0.146 %. The oil was analyzed by GC-MS and main components are sesquiterpenes such as neoclovene, panasinsene, and calarene and more than 110 components were identified from it. The oil was tested for antibacterial activity against general bacteria (E. Coli, S. aureus and P. aeruginosa), yeast, acne germ (Propionibacterium acne) and dandruff germ (Pityrosporum ovale). Panox ginseng absolute essential oil showed the prominent antibacterial activity against Propionibacterium acnes ACCC 6919.

Key Words

Panax ginseng, absolute essential oil, fragrance, acne, GC-MS