이향복 Hyang-bok Lee , 이행병 Haeng Byoung Lee , 이처영 Cheo Young Lee , 김은기 Eun-ki Kim

DOI:

Abstract

Melanin plays an important role in protecting human skin from UV radiation and determines the race and skin color. Melanin is also major target for developing skin-whitening cosmeceuticals. Recently, as the market size of skin-whitening cosmeceuticals has rapidly expanded, related researches and developments are also focused on maximizing the safety and efficacy. Also, patents of skin-whitening materials have been increasing steadily for ensuring the competitive power. Patent also shows the research trend of industry and institutes. In this review, we analyze the trend of research and development based on the patent application of skin-whitening cosmeceuticals.

Key Words

antioxidant, cosmetic, skin, melanin, whitening agent

이근수 Geun-soo Lee , 이동환 Dong-whan Lee , 표형배 Hyeung-bae Pyo , 최태부 Tae-boo Choi

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Abstract

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltrizine (BEMT) is one of the most widely used chemical UVA + UVB double absorbers in sunscreen products. But topical application of BEMT is restricted due to its defects in product. The purpose of this study is to adopt the sunscreen product of solid lipid nano-particles containing BEMT (BEMT-SLN). The particle diameters, the encapsulation efficiencies and the crystallization index (C.I.) are about 330 nm, 93.3 % and the 4.3 %. As a result, in vitro penetration and release of BEMT were generally higher in O/W emulsion than the SLN formulation. However in vivo study, it was shown that the rate of release could be decreased by 80 % in the SLN formulation. The sun protection factor (SPF) of the SLN formulation increased by 100 % in the in vitro UV protection test. Therefore, SLN formulation potentiated the UV-blocking power of BEMT. This study suggest that SLN can be used for the encapsulation of BEMT.

Key Words

SLN, Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltrizine, penetration, release, UV-blocking

안영훈 Yong Hoon Ahn , 배순민 Soon Min Bae , 정진교 Jin Kyo Jung , 황정근 Jeong Geun Hwang

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Abstract

The multi-lamellar and liquid crystal structures have drawn great public attention in the functional cosmetic and skin-related medicinal areas recently. The structure of an emulsion containing aqueous phase as a binding water and fixed oil phase components forming an association compound of the multi-lamellar structure can reconstruct the intercellular lipid lamellar structure in the stratum corneum and restore barrier function of the skin. In this study, we investigated the beneficial effect of bio-mimic liquid crystal emulsions (BLCE) containing higher fatty alcohol, lecithin, and cholesterol on the skin barrier function, and evaluated its cytotoxicity.

Key Words

liquid-crystal, multi-lamellar, skin barrier, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), BLCE

전소미 So Mi Jeon , 안정엽 Jeung Youb Ahn , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In the previous study, the anti-oxidant activity of extract/fraction of Sueada asparagoides (SA) was investigated and the results showed that the ethylacetate (EtOAc) fraction and its aglycone fraction had the best performance on the free radical scavenging activity, reactive oxygen species scavenging (ROS) activity and cell protective activity (J. Soc. Cosme. Scientists Korea, 33(3), 145 (2007)). In this study, the stability of cream containing 0.3% SA EtOAc extract (called extract below) was evaluated. pH, viscosity and absorbance (363 nm) were measured under the 4 different temperatures (0 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃ and 45 ℃) and under the sun light at the 4 week intervals during the 12 weeks in total. The control cream without containing the extract did not show pH change under the different temperatures mentioned above. However, the pH of the cream the extract was decreased 0.08 at the temperature ranges of 0 ℃ to 37 ℃. Under the 45 ℃ and sun light condition, the pH was decreased 0.51 and 0.66, respectively. The cream containing the extract did not show absorbance change at the temperature ranges of 0 to 37 ℃ for 12 weeks. Instead, the absorbance of the cream treated under 45 ℃ and sun light condition was decreased 7.6 % and 7.4 %, respectively. This decrease in absorbance is relatively small compared to the 48.3 % decrease of the extract sampled from the cream using ethanol solution. This indicates that the extract is stabilized in the cream. After treating the cream for 12 weeks under the different temperatures, the viscosity was measured for the cream containing the extract and control cream. The values were increased by 1,748 cPs in average compared to the initial value for the former and by 951 cPs in average for the latter. On the other hand, the viscosity of control cream treated under the sun light for 12 weeks was significantly decreased (4,022 cPs) relative to the cream containing the extract, which showed 2,484 cPs increase in viscosity. This indicates that the SA extract contributes to the stability of the emulsion product by protective effect to maintain the viscosity of the cream against sun light. In addition, any change in color or smell was not observed through 12 weeks of the experimental time period. Thus, it is concluded that it is still not clear in the stability of the cream containing the extract when it is stored for the long time. Accordingly, it is suggested that further study is needed to provide more information to the manufactures, who are seeking for the application of the extract to improve the anti-oxidant activity and stability of cosmetic products.

Key Words

Sueada asparagoides, cream, stability test, viscosity, absorbance

최봉기 Bong-ki Choi , 조희원 Hee-won Cho , 김효정 Hyo-jung Kim , 이주동 Joo-dong Lee

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Abstract

When Perfluorinated Compounds (PFCs) are applied in cosmetic products, they have many merits because of unique feeling and characters. However, it is very difficult to use them as cosmetic ingredients because they are insoluble material in oil and water and have high specific gravity. To develop a special system to stabilize PFCs in cosmetic products, we compared three systems, of gel network system, spherulite lamellar system, and nanostructure system. We found that nanostructure system was the optical system for stabilizing PFCs.

Key Words

perfluorinated compounds (PFCs), gel network system, nanostructure system, spherulite lamellar system, cosmetic products

김혜경 Hyae Kyoung Kim , 손의동 Eui Dong Son , 이진영 Jin Young Lee , 황재성 Jae Sung Hwang , 강학희 Hak Hee Kang , 장이섭 Ihseop Chang

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Abstract

The alternation of extracellular matrix (ECM) protein in aging process is associated with symptoms such as wrinkling and loss of elasticity in skin. Now, the major target proteins for anti-aging have been metalloproteases and the structural proteins such as collagen and elastin. Recently, the interaction of cell and ECM proteins (collagen, fibrillin, and fibronectin) is reported to have an important role in survival, proliferation and tissue reconstruction. Fibronectin is a matrix adhesion protein which binds to collagen and integrin and degraded by serine proteases. It has been reported that fragments of fibronectin (Fn-fr's) were involved in matrix metalloproteases (MMPs) expression in osteoblast. But, the role of Fn-fr's in human skin and in skin cells has not been reported yet. Therefore, we investigated the differences of fibronectin fragmentation pattern between young and aged human skin, and demonstrated that the fragmentation of fibronectins is significantly increased in aged human skin. Also, treatment of Fn-fr's (70, 45 kDa) increased MMP-1 expression and MMP-2 activity in human dermal fibroblasts. Our results suggest that Fn-fr's as a potential new factor to accelerate skin aging.

Key Words

fibronectin, Fn-fr's, MMPs, skin aging, human dermal fibroblast

양희정 Hee Jung Yang , 원보령 Bo Ryoung Won , 임영진 Young Jin Lim , 윤선경 Sun Kyeong Yoon , 지동환 Dong Hwan Ji , 최지연 Jee Yeon Choi , 한승주 Seung Joo Han , 이충우 Chung Woo Lee , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Aspalathus linearis extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities (FSC₅₀) of extract/fractions of Aspalathus linearis were in the order: 50 % ethanol extract (11.50 ㎍/mL) < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction (8.47 ㎍/mL) < ethylacetate fraction (4.76 ㎍/mL). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of some Aspalathus linearis extracts on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were ethylacetate fraction (OSC₅₀, 4.58 ㎍/mL) < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction (2.20 ㎍/mL) < 50 % ethanol extract (1.09 ㎍/mL). 50 % Ethanol extract showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Aspalathus linearis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Aspalathus linearis extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly 50 % ethanol extract exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (τ₅₀, 272.00 min at 50 ㎍/mL). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethylacetate fraction among the Aspalathus linearis extracts, showed 3 bands in TLC and 3 peaks in HPLC experiments (360 nm). Three components were identified as luteolin (composition ratio, 18.24 %), quercetin (58.79), and kaempferol (22.97). TLC chromatogram of ethylacetate fraction of Aspalathus linearis extract revealed 7 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 9 peaks, which were identified as isoorientin (composition ratio, 14.71 %), orientin (28.84 %), vitexin (5.63 %), rutin and isovitexin (12.73 %), hyperoside (9.24 %), isoquercitrin (5.40 %), luteolin (1.48 %), quercetin (17.61 %) and kaempferol (4.59 %) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on elastase (IC₅₀, 9.08 ㎍/mL) was very high. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Aspalathus linearis can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging ¹O₂ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Aspalathus linearis extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

Key Words

Aspalathus linearis, flavonoid, antioxidative activity, elastase, cosmetics

박정은 Jeong Eun Park , 이소미 So Mi Lee , 정혜진 Hye Jin Jeong , 장이섭 Ih Seop Chang

DOI:

Abstract

Parabens are used in nearly all types of cosmetics and toiletries because they are formulated well and have broad spectrum of activity, inertness, low costs and excellent chemical stability in relation to pH. 2-phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin are common preservatives which are usually used in combination with parabens in cosmetics. Toxicity of parabens is generally low but application of parabens to damaged or broken skin has resulted in sensitization. Moreover, the possibility of their estrogenic potential, anesthetic effects and reproductive toxicity has been reported. Consequently there are some regulations in use of parabens. And the maximum permitted concentrations of chlorphenesin and 2-phenoxyethanol in cosmetic products are authorized by the same reasons. So it is important to control and estimate the amount of parabens in products. In this article, we proposed a valid method for the simultaneous determination of 8 preservatives including parabens in a short time using ultra performance liquid chromatography^TM (UPLC^TM). Separation of eight components was achieved in less than 10 min and resolutions were reasonable (USP resolution 2). And limit of detection and quantification were evaluated. The method was suitably validated for specificity, linearity, precision (repeatability, intermediate precision) and accuracy for assay (recovery) based on International conference on harmonisation (ICH) guideline. The method was applicable to analysis of preservatives in cosmetic products.

Key Words

paraben, 2-phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, UPLC^TM, preservatives

조춘구 Choo Koo Zhoh , 김경례 Kyung Rae Kim , 김주찬 Joo Chan Kim

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Abstract

We studied anti-microbial and anti-oxidant activities of bio-active components in stem of Juniperus chinensis L. and leaf of Abies koreana Wilson. Those plants of needle leaf tree family were reported to contain anti-cancer compounds. The anti-bacterial activity was tested by Broth dilution method against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. As results, Juniperus chinensis L. and Abies koreana Wilson extracts showed 17.0 % and 8.5 % higher anti-bacterial activity than methyl paraben, respectively. The free radical scavenging activity of Juniperus chinensis L. and Abies koreana Wilson extracts showed 45 % and 44 % at 5,000 ppm. We measured polyphenol (catechin equivalent) and flavonoids quantity. The Juniperus chinensis L. extract contained 312 mg/g of polyphenol and 105 mg/g of flavonoids. The Abies koreana Wilson extract contained 280 mg/g of polyphenol and 103.8 mg/g of flavonoids. The cytotoxicity of extracts was measured by neutral red assay. Extracts did not affect the viability of CCK-986sk cells up to a concentration of 1,250 ppm. In conclusion, these data suggest that extracts of needle leaf trees would be usefull as antiseptic agents and anti-oxidants for cosmetic products.

Key Words

Needle leaf tree extract, antibacterial activity, antioxidant, abies koreana wilson, juniperus chinensis L.

이대우 Dae Woo Lee , 김영진 Young Jin Kim , 김영실 Young Sil Kim , 엄상용 Sang Yong Eom , 김종헌 Jong Heon Kim

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we evaluate anti-oxidation, whitening and anti-inflammatory efficacies of Euphorbia jolkini extract for application as a cosmeceutical ingredient. We separated 5 fractions from Euphorbia jolkini extract (70 % MeOH) by MPLC. First and 5th fractions showed a supressive effect on Mn-SOD synthesis in the normal human fibroblasts. They inhibited melanogensis in the B16-F10 melanma cells. Furthermore, 1st and 5th fractions reduced the amounts of IL-1α, IL-6, COX-Ⅱ and total NO secreted from the normal human fibroblasts. These results suggest that Euphorbia jolkini extract may be used as an active ingredient in cosmetics.

Key Words

Euphorbia jolkini, whitening, anti-inflammation, IL-1α, IL-6