양희정 Hee Jung Yang , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In the previous study, we reported the antioxidative activity of Equisetum arvense extracts. In this study, its inhibitory effect on elastase and components were investigated. Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethylacetate fraction among the Equisetum arvense extracts, showed 4 bands and 4 peaks in TLC and HPLC experiments, respectively. Four components were identified as luteolin (composition ratio, 19.12 %), quercetin (12.87), apigenin (15.81) and kaempferol (52.20). TLC chromatogram of ethylacetate fraction of Equisetum arvense extract revealed 7 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 8 peaks, which were identified as kaempferol-3,7-O-diglucoside (composition ratio, 15.74 %), luteolin-5-O-glucoside (galuteolin, 11.91), apigenin-5-O-glucoside (12.91), kaempferol-3-O-glucoside (astragalin, 27.94), quercetin-glycoside (10.81, structure was not determined), kaempferol-glycoside (12.33, structure was not determined), luteolin (3.72) and apigenin (4.62) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on elastase (IC₅₀, 9.8 g/mL) was very high. But ethylacetate fraction (flavonoid glycosides) rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on elastase. Combined with the previous results of the antioxidative activity of Equisetum arvense extracts, it is concluded that the inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

Key Words

Equisetum arvense, flavonoids, elastase, antioxidative activity, cosmetics

전소미 So Mi Jeon , 김소이 So I Kim , 안정엽 Jeung Youb Ahn , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects of Sueada asparagoides and Salicornia herbacea extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC₅₀) of extract/fractions of Sueada asparagoides was in the order: 100 % ethanol extract (329.33 g/mL) < 50 % ethanol extract (40.73) < ethylacetate fraction (13.87) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (7.80). In case of Salicornia herbacea, the free radical scavenging activities of ethylacetate fraction and aglycone fraction were 13.87 and 7.80 g/mL, respectively. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of Sueada asparagoides and Salicornia herbacea extracts on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity of Sueada asparagoides extracts was 50 % ethanol extract (OSC₅₀, 0.99 g/mL) < ethylacetate fraction (0.05) < aglycone fraction (0.03). Aglycone fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. In case of Salicornia herbacea, the ROS scavenging activities of ethylacetate fraction and aglycone fraction were 0.10 and 0.20 g/mL, respectively. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Sueada asparagoides and Salicornia herbacea on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethanol extract (100 %) of Sueada asparagoides diminished photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ∼ 100 g/mL). Particularly deglycosylated aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (τ₅₀, 310 min at 50 g/mL). In case of Salicornia herbacea, ethylacetate fraction exhibited more potent protective effect. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Sueada asparagoides can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging ¹O₂ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS.

Key Words

Sueada asparagoides, Salicornia herbacea, antioxidant, photohemolysis, reactive oxygen species, cosmetics

권순상 Sun Sang Kwon , 이승환 Seung Hwan Yi , 김덕희 Duck Hee Kim , 김준오 Jun Oh Kim , 장이섭 Ihseop Chang

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Abstract

Mockeoseuk (China fossil) contains the various kinds of minerals and radiates far infrared light. In order to apply mockeoseuk to the cosmetic formulation, hybridization technique was adapted and modified by selecting a spherical silicone powder as substrate. The resultant composite improved the physical properties such as skin feeling and apparent color and still sustained the efficacy of mockeoseuk. In a clinical test, the cosmetic formulation with 10 wt% mockeoseuk composite raised the temperature of facial skin through enhancement of skin blood flow.

Key Words

mockeoseuk, far infrared light, hybridization technique, spherical silicone powder, blood circulation

최선경 Sun Kyung Choi , 노영혜 Young Hea Roh , 추정한 Jeong Han Choo , 최영진 Yeong Jin Choi , 강학희 Hak Hee Kang , 이옥섭 Ock Sub Lee

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Abstract

The relationship between texture and rheological properties of mascara (oil-in-water emulsion) was analyzed in this study. The final mascara product and gelling agents (2.0 wt%) used therein, such as hydroxyethylcellulose (HC), carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), hectorite, sodium magnesium silicate (SMS), hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (HS), and polyacrylate 13/polyisobutene/polysorbate 20 (PPP), were measured for rheological properties. As a result, HS and PPP showed the highest adhesiveness which were related to the volumizing effect of mascara. The viscosities of HC, SMS, and HS were measured at the stress range of 1 ∼ 1,000 s^-1. SMS, with the lowest storage modulus range of 100 ∼ 1,000 s^-1, affected the mascara in terms of smooth texture. The results of this study suggest that the rheology of gelling agents used influences the final texture of the mascara.

Key Words

rheology, mascara, gelling agent, spreadability, viscosity

김진영 Jin Young Kim , 양희정 Hee Jung Yang , 이근하 Keun Ha Lee , 전소미 So Mi Jeon , 안유진 You Jin Ahn , 원보령 Bo Ryoung Won , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In the previous study, we reported the antioxidative and cellular protective effects of Jeju native plant extracts. In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of new 37 plant extracts collected from self-growing plants in Jeju island. Their anti-oxidant activities were measured by the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay and reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging assay in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system. The cytoprotective properties of 37 plant extracts were assessed in the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes. The inhibitory effect of 37 plant extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The results showed that the extracts of Myrica rubra stem bark and Securinega suffruticosa have the free radical scavenging activity (FSC₅₀: 5, 8 g/ mL, respectively), and the extracts of Quercus acutissima leaf and Securinega suffruticosa stem bark have the prominent ROS scavenging activity (OSC₅₀: 0.009 g/mL). Photohemolysis of erythrocytes in the presence of rose-bengal as a sensitizer was inhibited by the extracts of Securinega suffruticosa stem bark and Salix koreensis stem (τ₅₀, 895 min, 640 min at 50 g/mL, respectively. Myrica rubra stem bark extract (77.8 % at 200 g/mL) and Salix koreensis stem extract (76.2 % at 200 g/mL) also have the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and elastase activities, respectively. These results indicated that the stem park of Myrica rubra, Securinega suffruticosa, and Camellia japonica, the stem of Salix koreensis, and the leaf of Quercus aqutissima and Camellia japonica could have the benefitial effects when they are added as ingredients in cosmetics.

Key Words

ROS, Jeju island native plants, anti-oxidant, tyrosinase, elastase

정은선 Eun Sun Jung , 이종성 Jong Sung Lee , 정광선 Kwang Seon Jung , 김새봄 Sae Bom Kim , 허성란 Sung Ran Huh , 박덕훈 Deok Hoon Park

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated the anti-obesity activity of extracts collected from wild plants in Jeju island. The inhibitory effect of plant extracts on the differentiation of preadipocyte 3T3-L1 was examined by oil red-O staining. We found that extracts collected from 6 plants among 31 plants, namely, Aralia elata (Miq.) Seem, Polygonum multiflorum Thunberg, Artemisia asiatica, Platycodon grandiflorum (Jacq.) A. Dc., Polygonum cuspidatum S. et Z., Magnolia obovata Thunb, significantly inhibited preadipocyte differentiation. Additionally, 4 plant extracts were also found to have antioxidant activities in DPPH radical scavenging assay. Taken together, these results show that 6 plant extracts suppress the differentiation of preadipocytes, suggesting the potential use of 6 plant extracts as anti-obesity agents.

Key Words

anti-obesity, preadipocyte, differentiation, DPPH radical scavenging assay, oil red-O staining method

심관섭 Gwan Sub Sim , 김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 이동환 Dong Hwan Lee , 이범천 Bum Chun Lee , 이근수 Geun Soo Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

In this study, we measured the anti-oxidative activity of Cirsium setidens and investigated its effect on UVA-induced MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblats. And then we examined possible improvement in skin elasticity by topical treatment with fomular including Cirsium setidens extract. The ethanol extract of C. setidens showed free anion radical scavenging effect (87.47 % at 1 mg/mL) and superoxide anion radical scavenging effect (61.71 % at 1 mg/mL) in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. At the concentration of 100 g/mL, C. setidens extract showed 95.54 % inhibition on lipid peroxidation of linoleic acid. UVA-induced MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblasts was reduced to 54.69 % by treatment with 100 g/mL of C. setidens extract. A human clinical study, in which oil-in-water emulsion with C. setidens extract was topically applied, showed significant increase in skin elasticity. These results suggest that the C. setidens extract can be effective anti-aging ingredient for cosmetics applications.

Key Words

Cirsium setidens, antioxidation, MMPs, human dermal fibroblast, skin elasticity

김경태 Kyoung Tae Kim , 김영희 Young Heui Kim , 김진국 Jin Guk Kim , 한창성 Chang Sung Han , 박선희 Sun Hee Park , 이방용 Bang Yong Lee , 김기호 Ki Ho Kim

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Abstract

In order to investigate the potential of very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (oligo HA) as a cosmetic ingredient, we first measured its cytotoxicity in fibroblast, keratinocyte, and SIRC cell lines. For efficacy test, its moisturizing effect and penetration rate were evaluated in an artificial skin system and Caco-2 cells. Oligo HA did not show any cytotoxicity at a concentration of 300 g/mL in fibroblasts and 1,000 g/mL in keratinocytes but it showed weak proliferation. In vitro ocular test, oligo HA showed negligible cytotoxicity at the maximum concentrations used (2,000 g/mL) in SIRC cells. In the test of the single and repeated cutaneous applications, oligo HA under occlusive patch did not provoke any cumulative irritation and sensitization. Oligo HA at a concentration of 0.01 % exhibited a more potent moisturizing effect than hyaluronic acid at a concentration of 0.01 %. In the permeability test using artificial skin and Caco-2 cell lines, hyaluronic acid (M.W. 1.1 × 10⁶) was hardly observed in the down medium of the inserts. On the other hand, oligo HA (M.W. 5,000) was detected in the down medium up to 16.0 % at 6 h in Caco-2 cell culture and up to 90 % at 6 h in an artificial skin system. These results suggest that oligo HA could be useful as an active ingredient for cosmetics.

Key Words

hyaluronic acid, oligo HA, ion-exchange resin, moisturizing effect, penetration

이소미 So-mi Lee , 주경미 Kyeong-mi Joo , 박정은 Jong-eun Park , 정혜진 Hye-jin Jeong , 장이섭 Ih Seop Chang

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Abstract

Oil soluble licorice extract (licorice extract) is an officially approved cosmetic component as a whitening ingredient in Korea. The durability of licorice, during which the whitening effect can be maintained in optimum condition, must be accurately defined. Since the cosmetics durability under real condition is relatively longer than its development time. It is needed to predict the real durability interval from the experimental measurement under simulated operating conditions. We analyzed the relationship between the licorice lifetime and the high temperature condition by using Arrhenius equation. We have established the constant stress test with temperature of 50 ℃, 55 ℃, and 60 ℃ condition, within which no formulation change of licorice products is expected for the accelerated stress test. In this paper, the lifetime of licorice in cosmetics was defined as time period for its 10 % contents reduction. We observed that the lifetime of licorice is 580 h at 50 ℃, 319 h at 55 ℃ and 166 h at 60 ℃. Using the above experimental data, we obtained the equation for the relationship between the licorice lifetime and temperature as follows; log (lifetime)= - 35.0243 + 1.15322 × (11604.83/temperature). From this equation, the lifetime of licorice at 25 ℃ can be estimated as 26 months. The estimated result was verified by measuring full lifetime of licorice. In fact, there was no significant difference between the estimated lifetime and real measurement within 95 % significance level. This study can be applied to other useful cosmetic components for the fast estimation of the exact durability.

Key Words

cosmetics durability, accelerated life test, licorice, Arrhenius equation, whitening

김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 심관섭 Gwan Sub Sim , 이동환 Dong Hwan Lee , 이근수 Geun Soo Lee , 이범천 Bum Chun Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

To develop a new whitening agent for cosmetics from natural products, Pimpinella brachycarpa was selected for its inhibitory effect on melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells. Crude ethanolic extract of P. brachycarpa and its four fractions hexane, ethyl acetate (EtOAc), butanol and aqueous were evaluated for antioxidative effects and tyrosinase inhibitory activity. To elucidate the mechanism of active compounds of P. brachycarpa, we investigated the changes in protein level of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 using Western blotting and the changes in mRNA level of tyrosinase using RT-PCR technique. Following UV irradiation, expression of ET-1 in HaCaT keratinocytes was measured by quantitative enzyme immunoassay (EIA) using human ET-1 antibody. Crude ethanolic extract of P. brachycarpa and its four fractions hexane, EtOAc, butanol and aqueous had free radical scavenging effect by 87.2, 2.5, 97.2, 80.5, 49.8 % at 100 g/mL and tyrosinase inhibitory effect by 18.3, 15.1, 55.4, 13.1, 0 % at 100 g/mL. P. brachycarpa EtOAc fraction significantly inhibited melanin production in B16 melanoma cells. Treatment with P. brachycarpa extract for 72 h suppressed the biosynthesis of melanin up to 58 % at 100 g/mL. Especially, the EtOAc fraction of P. brachycarpa reduced the tyrosinase activity and tyrosinase expression in B16 melanoma cells in a dose-dependent manner. mRNA levels of tyrosinase and TRP-1 were markedly reduced by the EtOAc fraction of P. brachycarpa. Moreover, at the concentrations of 12.5 ∼ 50 g/mL of the fraction, the production of UV- induced ET-1 in HaCaT keratinocytes (24 h after 8 mJ/㎠ UVB irradiation) was reduced about 40 % (p < 0.05). P. brachycarpa could be used as a new natural skin-whitening agent due to the inhibitory effect of on melanin biosynthesis and endothelin-1 expression.

Key Words

pimpinella brachycarpa, melanogenesis, whitening, tyrosinase, endothelin