김영찬 Young Chan Kim , 황순욱 Soon Wook Hwang

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Abstract

Through mapping the HS code to category of Korean legal system, Korean cosmetic market in 2004 was as follow； domestic demand size (=production-export＋import) is 3,272 billion Won that was decreased 5.6% compared with previous year. The sum of production and import of cosmetics are decreased 0.6% and 4.4%, respectively, compared to last year, but that of import is increased 55.7% dramatically. Among the export items, the amounts of shaving and hair treatment exhibit high growth rates. The fragrances, hair dye and make-up products show huge negative growth rates, but baby product and nail care grow positively in domestic demand records. Market share of imported product is overall 17.8%. Fragrances, hair dye and bath product share large market, respectively.

Key Words

cosmetics, market, mapping, import, export

심관섭 Gwan Sub Sim , 이동환 Dong Hwan Lee , 김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 이범천 Bum Chun Lee , 안성관 Sung Kwan Ahn , 최태부 Tae Boo Choe , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

In this study, the effect of oligopeptide ($Oligosproutin^®$) from sprouted black rice was evaluated for possible improvement in skin elasticity. We examined the changes in gene expression on oligopeptide-treated HaCaT cells using DNA microarray analysis. As a result, oligopeptide treatment showed a differential expression ratio of more than 2-fold : 745 genes were activated and 1011 genes were repressed. One of the most interesting findings is a 2-fold increase in hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS 2) gene expression by oligopeptide. We also found that oligopeptide increased cell proliferation, HAS2 mRNA expression and intracellular ROS scavenging activity in HaCaT cells. A human clinical study which oil-in-water emulsion with oligopeptide was topically applied showed significant increase in skin elasticity. These results suggest that the sprouted black rice oligopeptide ($Oligosproutin^®$) can be effective anti-aging ingredient for cosmetics.

Key Words

sprouted black rice, microarray, oligopeptide, hyaluronan synthase, elasticity

정소영 So Young Chung , 남상준 Sang June Nam , 최왕근 Wang Keun Choi , 서미영 Mi Young Seo , 김진욱 Jin Wook Kim , 이승헌 Seung Hun Lee , 박장서 Chang Seo Park

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Abstract

Phosphatidyiserine (PS) is a phospholipid which plays the structural role in membranes and serves as a cofactor of signaling enzymes for diverse cellular functions. In this study, we observed that topical treatment with PS significantly decreased trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) induced by tape-stripping in hairless mice. Also, ceramides in epidermis were increased in PS-treated group compared to vehicle-treated one in vivo. the amounts of non-hydroxyl ceramide (NHCER) (1.4 fold) and glucosylceramide (glucosylCER) (1.6 fold), in the skin of hairless mice, were increased by topical treament with PS. Also, we demonstrated that PS stimulated keratinocyte differentiation. We observed that PS treatment morphologically altered normal human keratinocyte (NHK) from the proliferating phase to the differentiating one, suggesting that PS stimulated epidermal differentiation in NHK. We also showed that the expressions of the specific markers for epidermal differentiation, involucrin (INV) (3.5 fold up) and transglutaminase 1 (TG'ase 1) (3 fold up), were significantly increased by PS treatment, compared to untreated control in vitro. In addition, topical treatment with PS resulted in a progressive increase in INV and loricrin protein levels in vivo. In conclusion, we provide the first evidence for the physiological activities of PS in skin, and we suggest that PS strengthen the epidermal permeability harrier by stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation.

Key Words

Phosphatidylserine, keratinocyte differentiation, ceramide, TEWL

이대우 Dae-woo Lee , 김영진 Young-jin Kim , 김영실 Young-sil Kim , 김종헌 Jong-heon Kim

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Abstract

In this study, we performed anti-oxidation, whitening, cell recovery and anti-inflammation effects with Alisma orientale to evaluate the cosmeceutical properties. Alisma orientate extract (30, 70, 100 % MeOH) exhibited a significant tree radical scavenging effect against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl hydrazine (DPPH) radical generation and showed tyrosinase inhibition effect in a dose dependent manner (over 0.5% concentration). In cell proliferation assay using human fibroblast, it didn't show any proliferation effect but showed safety from cytotoxicity under 0.05% concentration. For whitening assay, we evaluated the melanin synthesis rate using B16 melanocyte and it showed a significant inhibitory effect (up to 40% under 0.05% concentration). After major screening assay, we separate 3 fractions from Alisma orientate extract by MPLC and performed cell recovery assay, melanin synthesis inhibition assay and anti-inflammatory assay. The third fraction showed a cell recovery effect over 30% against radical damage and remarkable repression in melanin synthesis and COX-2 synthesis.

Key Words

Alisma orientale, anti-oxidation, whitening, cell recovery, anti-inflammation

김용진 Yong Jin Kim , 김진웅 Jin Woong Kim , 김준오 Jun Oh Kim , 김진우 Jin Woo Kim , 장이섭 In Seop Chang

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Abstract

This article describes an enzyme stabilization method that allows the use of enzymes irrespective of environmental factors, especially heat, while maintaining their activity for a long time. We have designed enzyme microcapsules that consist of papain enzyme cores, poly(propylene glycol) interlayers, and poly(ε-caprolactone$) walls. By confocal laser scanning microscopy measurements and the thermal stability of papain-loaded microcapsules, it is demonstrated that the papain is surrounded by a hydrophobic polyol layer and stabilized by the exclusive volume effect. In our study, improved thermal stability can be obtained by using more hydrophobic long-chained polyols, which is understood to be attributed to the effective formation of a hydrophobic polyol layer between the papain and the polymer wall by means of conformational anchoring in the interface.

Key Words

conformational anchoring, enzymes, exclusive volume effect, stabilization, thermal stability, conformational anchoring, enzymes

정택규 Taek Kyu Jung , 임미선 Mi Sun Lim , 김영백 Young Back Kim , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

Recently, encapsulation studies have been tarried out to protect active agents using shell materials such as polymers, lipids, inorganic materials and the other protective materials. We have prepared copolymers of methylmethacrylate (MMA) and trimethoxysilylpropylmethacrylate (TMPMA), and the copolymers as shell materials were used for encapsulating active agents. Poly(MMA-co-TMPMA) spheres were very efficient for encapsulating active agents such as vitamin derivatives (such as retinol, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) and oil soluble licorice extract etc. Mean diameters of poly(MMA-co-TMPMA) core-shell spheres containing active agents varied between about 0.1 to 10㎛ according to the experimental conditions. The loading amount of encapsulating active agents was 15 to 25% (w/w) and the loading yield was above 90%. The stability of active agents in poly(MMA-co-TMPMA) core-shell spheres prepared with an UV absorbing precursor increased by 25% compared with that of active agents in spheres prepared without an UV absorbing precursor.

Key Words

encapsulating, active agents, methylmethacrylate (MMA), trimethoxysilylpropylmethacrylate (TMPMA), UV absorbing precursor

손홍하 Hong-ha Son , 곽택종 Taek-jong Kwak , 김경섭 Kyung-seob Kim , 이상민 Sang-min Lee , 이천구 Cheon-koo Lee

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Abstract

In the field of makeup cosmetics, especially, powder-based foundations such as two-way cake, pact and face powder, the quality of which is known to be strongly influenced by the properties of powder, surface treatment technology is widely used as a method to improve the various characteristics of powder texture, wear properties, dispersion ability and so on. The two-way cake or pressed-powder foundation is one of the familiar makeup products in Asian market for deep covering and finishing purpose. In spite of the relent progress in surface modification method such as composition of powders with different characteristics and application of a diversity of coating ingredient (metal soap, amino acid, silicone and fluorine), this product possess a technical difficulty to enhance both of the adhesion power and spreadability on the skin in addition to potential claim of consumer about heavy or thick feeling. This article is covering the preparation and coating method of nano-vesicle that mimic the double-layered lipid lamellar structure existing between the corneocytes of the stratum corneum in the skin for the purpose of improving both of two important physical characteristic of two-way cake, spreadability and adhering force to skin, and obtining better affinity to skin. Nano-vesicle was prepared using the high-pressure emulsifying process of lecithin, pseudo ceramide, butylene glycol and tocopheryl acetate. This nano-sized emulsion was added to powder-dispersed aqueous phase together with bivalent metal salt solution and then the filtering and drying procedure was followed to yield the nano-vesicle coated powder. The amount of nano-vesicle coated on the powder was able to regulated by the concentration of metal salt and this novel powder showed the lower friction coefficient, more uniform condition of application and higher adhesive powder comparing with the alkyl silane treated powder from the test result of spreadability and wear properties using friction meter and air jet method. Two-wav cake containing newly developed coated powder with nano-vesicle showed the similar advantages in the frictional and adhesive characteristics.

Key Words

nano-vesicle, coated powder, adhesion, spreadability

김현주 Hyun Ju Kim , 임혜원 Hye Won Urn , 김보현 Bo Hyeon Kim , 김학수 Hack Soo Kim , 최신욱 Shin Wook Choi , 윤창순 Chang-soon Yoon

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Abstract

Agrimonia pilosa Ledeb. is a perennial plant, which naturally habitats in whole area of Korea, and where it is popularly used for the traditional remedies. In the present study, A. pilosa Ledeb. extract was prepared to determine the anti-acne effects and application possibility as a cosmetic resource. A pilosa Ledeb. was extracted with methanol and its anti-acne effect against Propionibacterium acnes was investigated via minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and paper disk diffusion method. The MIC of A. pilosa Ledeb. extract and triclosan was 0.05 mg/mL and 0.04 mg/mL, respectively. This implies that A. pilosa Ledeb. extract nay be an efficient anti-acne ingredient for cosmetics, considering that it is a crude extract. The paper disk diffusion assay showed that its anti-acne effect was similar to that of triclosan. Furthermore, A. pilosa Ledeb. extract effectively inhibited the growth of several aerobic microorganisms including Staphylococcus aureus. Finally, we examine the stability of the extract to temperature and pH. The extract was very stable to high temperatures (70~121℃) and to pH (pH 2~11), suggesting its utilization for cosmetics.

Key Words

Agrimonia pilosa Ledeb, anti-acne activity, MIC, Staphylococcus aureus, stability

김영희 Young Heui Kim , 김기수 Ki Soo Kim , 박선희 Sun Hee Park , 이수희 Soo Hee Lee , 김영진 Young-jin Kim , 김영실 Young-sil Kim , 김종헌 Jong-heon Kim , 김기호 Ki Ho Kim

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Abstract

Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum has long been used as a rheumatic remedy, an anti-pyretic, an anti-ulcer treatment, and for the alleviation of local pain and fever in Korea and Malaysia. In order to investigate the possibility of Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum extract as a cosmetic ingredient, we measured its anti-inflammatory effect by inhibition of iNOS (inducible nitric oxide synthase), and the release of PGE2, IL-6, and IL-8. HPLC experiment after extraction with 95% ethanol at pH 3.5 showed that Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum was mainly composed of lycorine (up to 1%), a well-known immunosuppressant. The content of lycorine varied depending on the type of tissue analyzed and the extraction method. In anti-inflammatory assay for inhibition of nitric oxide formation on lipopolysaccharide (LPS)- activated mouse macrophage RAW 264.7 cells, the ethanolic extract of Crinum asiaticum showed inhibitory activity of NO production in dose-dependent manner (IC₅₀ = 83.5 μg/mL). Additional study by RT-PCR demonstrated that the extract of Crinum asiaticum significantly suppressed the expression of the iNOS gene. Moreover, the extract of Crinum asiaticum did not show my cytotoxicity, but did show cell proliferation effect against LPS (10~60% increase of tell viability). In an assay to determine inhibition of the H₂O₂-activated release of PGE2, IL-6, and IL-8 in human normal fibroblast cell lines, the release of PGE2 and IL-6 was almost completely inhibited above concentrations of 0.05% and 1%, respectively. Moreover, the release of IL-8 was completely inhibited over the entire range of concentrations (> 0.0025%). The result showed that the extract of Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum has sufficient anti-inflammatory effect. There-fore, Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum extract may be useful as an ingredient of cosmetic products.

Key Words

Crinum asiaticum, anti-inflammatory effect, cosmeceuticals, iNOS

이은영 Eunyoimg Lee , 최동원 Dongwon Choi , 안수선 Susun An , 문성준 Seongjoon Moon , 장이섭 Ihseop Chang , 은희철 Hee Chul Eun

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Abstract

Sensory irritation is one of the important side effects of cosmetics and it is required to develop new products that are more tolerable to the consumers. There are lots of cosmetic ingredients known to induce sensory irritation such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, ethanol, preservatives, fragrances and menthol etc. It is also known that sensory irritation increases by change of pH as well as additional occlusive conditions. The aim of this study is to know various factors affecting sensory irritation due to preservatives (methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol and chlorophenecin). We also wanted to investigate the effect of preservatives to sensory irritation according to change of formulations. Our results showed that sensory irritation increased with the conditions of increasing absorption such as packs. We have also found that sensory irritation increased synergistically when to apply two different preservatives together. For example, phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin themselves have weak sensory irritation potentials, but we observed phenoxyethanol combined with chlorpenesin synergistically increase of sensory irritation potentials. In conclusion, formulation and combination of different preservatives should be considered to reduce the unwanted sensory irritation of preservatives.

Key Words

Sensory irritation, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, phenoxyethanol, chlorophenesin