김경남 Kyung Nam Kim , 김윤정 Yoon Jeong Kim , 이화영 Hwayoung Lee , 김은정 Eunjeong Kim , 천지민 Jimin Cheon , 강학희 Hak Hee Rang , 이옥섭 Ok-sub Lee

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Abstract

Using optimized standard methods, which were previously done by sensory tests, many factors have been analyzed and their significance were determined according to gloss and gloss-lasting capability in lipstick. Analyzing some factors we could conclude that the effective factors were the kind of wax, amount of volatile silicone oil, and stick hardness in the aspect of lipstick's gloss. And in the point of lipstick's gloss-lasting properties, vital few X's were quantity of volatile silicone oil stick hardness, and polymer contents and so on. We successfully have tried new analytical approach, 6-sigma to general property of lipstick. Furthermore this study will be a base on the prescription design in gloss-enhanced products.

Key Words

gloss, gloss-lasting, lipstick, make-up, 6-sigma

김영소 Young So Kim , 김부민 Boo Min Kim , 박상철 Sang Chul Park , 정혜진 Hye Jin Jeong , 장이섭 Ih Seop Chang

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Abstract

Nowadays there are many sun protection cosmetics including organic or inorganic UV filter as an active ingredient. Chemically stable inorganic sunsEreen agents, usually metal oxides, we widely employed in high SPF products. Titanium dioxide is one of the most frequently used inorganic UV filters. It has been used as pigments for a long period of cosmetic history. With the development of micronization techniques, it becomes possible to incorporate titanium dioxide in sunscreen formulations without whitening effect and it becomes an important research topic. However, there are very few works related to quantitations of titanium dioxide in sunscreen products. In this research, we analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide in sunscreen cosmetics by adapting redof titration, reduction of Ti(IV) to Ti(III) and reoxidation to Ti(IV). After calcification of other organic ingredients of cosmetics, titanium dioxide is dissolved by hot sulfuric acid. The dissolved Ti(IV) is reduced to the Ti(III) by adding aluminum metals. The reduced Ti(III) is titrated against a standard oxidizing agent, Fe(III) (ammonium iron(III) sulfate), with potassium thiocyanate as an indicator In order to test accuracy and applicability of the proposed method, we analyzed the amounts of titanium dioxide in four types of sunscreen cosmetics, such as cream, make-up base, foundation and powder, after adding known amounts of titanium dioxide (1~25w/w%). The percent recoveries of the titanium dioxide in four types of formulations were in the range between 96 and 105%. We also analyzed 7 commercial cosmetic products labeled titanium dioxide as an ingredient and compared the results with those of obtained from ICP-AES (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Atomic Emission Spectrometry), one of the most powerful atomic analysis techniques. The results showed that the titrated amounts were well coincided with the analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide by ICP-AES. Although instrumental analytical methods, ICP-MS (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Mass Spectrometry) and ICP-AES, are the best for the analysis of titanium, it is hard to adopt because of their high prices for small cosmetic companies. It was found that the volumetric method presented here gat e quantitative and reliable results with routine lab-wares and chemicals.

Key Words

titanium dioxide, sunscreens, redox titration, volumetric titration

이윤희 Youn Hee Lee , 임남훈 Nam Hoon Lim , 정민석 Min Seok Joung , 김중회 Joong Hoi Kim , 심상수 Sang Soo Sim

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Abstract

Recently, arbutin, oil soluble licorice extact (GLY), ascorbyl glucoside (AA2G), and ethyl ascorbyl ether (EAE) have been widely used as functional whitening ingredients. To Investigate which combination between the above agents could be more effective for whitening effect, tyrosinase activity and MSH-induced melanin production in B-16 melanoma cells were investigated. Both GLY and arbutin dose-dependently inhibited purified tyrosinase activity. The inhibitory effects of GLY with AA2A or EAE on Drosinase activity were more potent than those of GLY alone, whereas that of arbutin with other ingreadients did not show those effects. In MSH-induced melanin production in B-16 melanoma cells, the mixture of Gly and EAE more significantly reduced melanin formation than Gly alone. Stability of mixture of GLY, arbutin, AA2A and EAE exposed at the temperature of 25℃, 45℃ for 30 days were also investigated. All of the combinations of whitening agents did not show any critical changes in their composition stability. These data suggest that the combination of GLY and vitamin C derivatives such as AA2G and EAE may be useful for the promotion of whitening effect.

Key Words

arbutin, oil soluble licorice extract (GLY), acorbyl glucoside(AA2G), ethyl ascorbyl ether(EAE), tyrosinase, MSH, B-16 melanoma cell

이범천 Bum Chun Lee , 김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 심관섭 Gwan Sub Sim , Yong He Zhang , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

To obtain effective and safe depigmenting agents, we investigated the effects of Scirpi rhizoma, a medicine among Chinese herbs, on melanogenesis. Dried S. rhizoma was refluxed with 70% aqueous ethanol and the extract was evaporated to dryness. To determine the effects as a whitening agent, various in vitro tests were performed such as free radical scavenging activity, melanin formation assay, tyrosinase activity and expression of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2(western blot and RT-PCR) in B16 melanoma cells. S. rhizoma showed scavenging activities of free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) with the IC₅₀ of 638 μg/mL against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and 21.7 μg/mL against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. S. rhizoma significantly inhibited melanin production in B16 melanoma cells. S. rhizoma treatment(48 h) suppressed the biosynthesis of melanin up to 27% at 100 μg/mL and reduced tyrosinase activity up to 31% at $100{\mu}g/mL$ in B16 melanoma cells. S. rhizoma was also able to significantly inhibit tyrosinase and TRP-1 expression in protein and mRNA level. These results suggest that S. rhizoma inhibited melanin biosynthesis by regulating tyrosinase activity and expression in B16 melanoma cells. Therefore, S. rhizoma may be useful as a new antioxidant and whitening agent to inhibit melanogenesis.

Key Words

scripi rhizoma, antioxidation, melanogenesis, tyrosinase, TRP-1,2

이병곤 Byeong Gon Lee

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Abstract

Tea (Camellia sinenis) is a popular beverage consumed worldwide. Since green tea, mainly consumed in Asia, has various biological activities, green tea components became one of the most favorite candidates as a functional materials for cosmetics and functional foods. The biological activities of green tea for skin cue have been ranged from protection of epidermal cells to the stimulation of extracellular matrix (ECM) biosynthesis. Green tea polyphenols (GTPs), which are active ingredients of green tea, possess anti-inflammatory, anti-carcinogenic and immune potentiation properties as well as antioxidant. They also modulate intracellular signal transduction pathways. GTPs decrease ultraviolet (UV)-induced oxidative stress, thus suppress mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway and apoptosis in keratinocytes. In addition, GTPs prevent the Induction of inflammatory mediators, such as cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), interleukin-8 (IL-8), and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) by tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNFα) or chemical treatment in keratinocytes. GTPs treatment protects from chemical-or UV-induced skin tumor incidence in animal experiment. Besides, GTPs stimulate keratinocyte differentiation and proliferation of normal and aged epidermal cells, resectively, and suppress matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) release. According to the progress of formulation study, green tea components will be guaranteed materials for the more effective skin cue products.

Key Words

green tea polyphenols, GTPs, EGCG, UVA, UVB, skin cancer, keratinocyte, differentiation

조영호 , 김진희 , 심관섭 , 이범천 , 표형배

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Abstract

Although many studies have been performed to elucidate the molecular consequence of ultraviolet irradiation on an aging, little is known about the effect of natural products. Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) we known to play an important role in (a) photoaging. Hete we investigated the effect of 1,2,4,6-tetra-O-galloyl-β-D-gluco-pyranose (1) and 3,4,5-trihydroxybenzoic acid (2) on the expression of MMP-1 in UVA-irradiated human skin fibroblasts (products), (on the) activity of MMP-1, and (on the) scavenging activities of free radicals. Compounds 1 and 2 were isolated from Melothria heterophylla (Cucurbitaceae). These compounds were found to scavenge free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) and were measured to have the SC₅₀ values of 3.9 μM and 13.3 μM against the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals and 4.3 μM and 4.0 μM against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. Compounds 1 and 2 showed a dose-dependent inhibitory effect on the expression and activity of MMP-1 in the UVA-irradiated human skin fibroblasts. Therefore, we concluded that compounds 1 and 2 significantly inhibited MMP-1 expression at the protein level. Also, these compounds were determined to have a potent antioxidant activity. From these results, we suggest that these compounds nay be used as (a) new anti-aging agents for the photo-damaged skin.

Key Words

Melothria heterophylla, antioxidants, UVA irradiation, MMP-1, skin aging

심관섭 Gwan Sub Sim , 김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 나영 Young Na , 이동환 Dong Hwan Lee , 이범천 Bum Chun Lee , Yong He Zhang , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Fy

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Abstract

In order to investigate the effects of Saussurea involucrata on (relationship between) aging (and Saussurea involucrata), we examined the activities of antioxidation, in vitro MMP inhibition and UVA-induced MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblasts. S. involucrata showed scavenging activities radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) with the IC₅₀ values of 3.89 μg/mL against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and 67.29 μg/mL against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. At the concentration of 1000 μg/mL, S. involucrata showed 93.27% inhibition on lipid peroxidation of linoleic acid. S. involucrata inhibited the activities of MMP-1 in a does-dependent manner and the IC₅₀ value calculated from semi-log plots was 97.18 μg/mL. Also, UVA induced MMP expression in human dermal fibroblasts was reduced 42.86% by treatment with S. involucrata, and MMP-1 mRNA expression was reduced in a dose-dependent manner. Therefore S. involucrata was able to significantly inhibit MMP expression in protein and mRNA level. All these results suggested that S. involucrata might act as an anti-aging agent by antioxidation and reducing UVA-induced MMP-1 production.

Key Words

Saussurea involucrata, antioxidation, MMP, human dermal fibroblast, anti-aging

남개원 Gae Won Nam , 김승훈 Seimg Hun Kim , 김은주 Eun Joo Kim , 김진한 Jin Han Kim , 채병근 Byung Guen Chae , 이해광 Hae Kwang Lee , 문성준 Seong Joon Moon , 강학희 Hak Hee Kang , 장이섭 Ih Seop Chang

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Abstract

The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skin care ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils were essential ingredients to make a skin care formulation. But these were still not understood how much concentration(s) were tested on human skin in the aspect of efficacy and sensory. We studied to examine various concentrations of ingredient by cosmetic companies using noninvasive methods. Polyols were composed of glycerol and butylene glycol (BG) as 1:1 ratio, and oils were hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl ethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate (PTO(R), Stearinerie Dubois Fils Co., France) as 1:1:1 ratio. All compounds were tested 0~27%dml Polyols and 0~35%dml oils in O/W emulsions. We investigated the effect of water contents and the effect of stratum corneum roughness in forearm skin after application of compounds. Water contents of the skin measured by skin capacitance and skin surface roughness measured visual scoring of skin surface biopsy through the scanning electron microscopy. Water contents of the skin were highly related to amount of polyols (to 20%) and oils (to 12%). Correlation coefficients were 0.971 and 0.985 respectively (p<0.01), 2 h after application. Skin surface roughness was positively correlated with polyol contents in concentration dependent manner, and depend on oils up to 6%. The ratio of coefficient was 2.5 to 1 (polyol to oils) by regression analysis. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with ether methods for noninvasive measurement.

Key Words

water contents, skin roughness, skin surface biopsy, polyol, oil and formulation

안성연 Sung Yeon Ahn , 배지현 Ji Hyun Bae , 김승훈 Seung Hun Kim , 이해광 Hae Kwang Lee , 문성준 Seong Joon Moon , 장이섭 Ih Seop Chang , 이옥섭 And Ok Sub Lee

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Abstract

As aging occurs, ow skin gets more wrinkles, becomes drier and loses its elasticity. Validating the evaluation of skin elasticity is especially important, because it is not as visible as other signs of aging such as wrinkles. Here, we identified the correlation between age and the Parameters given by Cutometer, and (we present) the parameters of that reflect the decreases in skin elasticity along with ages (Ur/Uf, Ua/Uf, Ur/Ue, Ua, r=0.687~0.725). Also we developed an evaluation method to quantify the difference of skin by viewing or touching. A five-grade standard of Moire topographic photo scale on face was prepared using sensory evaluation of 20 to 61 year - old women. Based on this photo standard, scoring was performed using (a) 5-grade system by three specialists to obtain the consensus score. Significant negative correlations between age and results of Cutometer (r=-0.687~-0.725), Moire topography scores (r=-938) were found. Finally we have shown the significance of the correlation between the result of Cutometer and the score of Moire topography (r=0.711). Our studies using Moire topography on face have confirmed that instrumental measurements reflect the decrease in shin elasticity, which is perceived visually.

Key Words

skin elasticity, Moire topography, cutometer, sensory, correlation

유익동 Ick Dong Yoo , 김종평 Jong Pyung Kim , 김원곤 Won Gon Kim , 윤봉식 Bong Sik Yun , 유인자 In Ja Ryoo

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Abstract

New antioxidative substances for cosmeceuticals were screened from natural resources such as microbial metabolites, mushrooms, and medicinal plants. Four antioxidants were isolated from the fungal metabolite of Eupenicillium shearii and their structures were determined to be new phenolic compounds. The compounds were designated as melanocins A, B, C, and D. Melanocins A~D exhibited free radical scavenging activity on DPPH and superoxide with EC₅₀ values of 21~94 and 7~84 μM, respectively, which were stronger activity than those of α-tocopherol and BHA. Melanocin A showed anti-wrinkle effects on the UV-irrated hairless mouse skin. A novel hispidin antioxidative compound designated as inoscavin A was isolated from the fruiting body of the mushroom, Inonotus xeranticus. Inoscavin A scavenged superoxide radical with EC₅₀ values of 0.03 μg/mL, and inhibited rat liver microsomal lipid peroxidation with EC₅₀ values of 0.3 μg/mL. Benzastatins A~G, the novel antioxidants isolated from the culture of Streptomyces nitrosporeus showed potent lipid peroxidation inhibitory activity with EC₅₀ values of 3~30 μM. A cyclopentene compound with strong hypopigmentary effect was isolated from the fungal metabolite of Penicillium sp. and identifed as terrein. Terrein significantly reduced melanin levels in a melanomacyte cell line, Mel-Ab. It showed 10 times stronger activity than kojic acid, but exhibited no cytotoxic effect even in 100 μM. It was suggested that terrein reduced melanin synthesis by reducing tyrosinase production by MITF down-regulation.

Key Words

cosmeceuticals, antioxidants, inoscavin A, benzastatin, terrein, melanocin