손의동 Ui Dong Son , 황재성 Jae Seong Hwang , 장이섭 Ih Seop Chang

DOI:

Abstract

Recently, with the remarkable increase in elderly persons and improvement of skin care technique, the requirements of customer for anti-aging care have become very important. Also, after cosmeceutical-product law was done in 2001, the major interesting field in cosmetic industry has been focused to developing anti-aging materials having safety and efficacy by basic science. In this review, we ill introduce the trend of anti-aging research and materials to prevent wrinkle or improve elasticity of skin.

Key Words

anti-aging research, cosmeceutical, wrinkle

이화정 Hwa Jeong Lee , 이충우 Chung Woo Lee , 안광수 Kwang Soo Ahn , 윤여표 Yeo Pyo Yun , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo , 조찬휘 Chan Hwi Cho , 홍기영 Ki Young Hong , 홍진태 Jin Tae Hong

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Abstract

Glycolic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from fruit and milk sugars, has been commonly used as a cosmetic ingredient since it was known to have photo-protective, anti-inflammatory effects, and anti-oxidant effect in UV-irradiated skin. However, little has been know about the functional role of glycolic acid on UV-induced skin cell proliferation. It was previously found that glycolic acid inhibited UV-induced skin tumor development in hairless mouse. As a possible mechanism of glycolic acid on the UV-induced skin tumor development, the ability of glycolic acid to inhibit the UVB-induced cell growth and possible mechanisms were investigated. Glycolic acid treatment attenuated the UV-induced cell proliferation and apoptotic cell death in the skin. In vitro study, glycolic acid inhibited the UVB-induced cell growth and apoptotic death through inhibiting caspase-3 activity. These results suggest that glycolic acid may exert the Inhibitory effect on the UVB-induced skin tumor development by regulating cell growth and apoptotic cell death.

Key Words

glycolic acid, UV, cell proliferation, apoptosis

진무현 Mu Hyun Jin , 정민환 Min-hwan Jung , 임영희 Young-hee Lim , 이상화 Sang Hwa Lee , 강상진 Sangjin Kang , 조완구 Wan-goo Cho

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Abstract

Skin aging is not a disease nor an abnormal phenomenon but a collection of degenerative changes with age, characterized by skin dryness, wrinkle formation, and loss of skin elasticity. The skin wrinkles are caused by either genetically predisposed factors or environmental factors such as UV irradiation or physical/chemical stimulus. The histological manifestations of wrinkles are changes in both amount and integrity of elastic and collagen fibers. Here we report the isolation and characterization of 3 active compounds, prangenidin, 8-hydroxybergapten, and xanthotoxol from Angelica dahurica root. The anti-wrinkle activities of these compounds were also investigated.

Key Words

Angelica dahurica root, photoaging, HAS gene expression, collagen synthesis

강철상 Chul Sang Kang , 울리오스왈더 Uli Osterwalder , 번드허조그 Bernd Herzog

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Abstract

Sunscreens have been in use for about 70years and “tanning without burning” was propagated as their major advantage. The objective changed from “getting a tanned skin” to “getting skin protection” since UV have been proposed to a major risk of skin cancer and the risk of developing skin cancer related also to non-burning UVA. The new expectation from consumers has triggered the development of new UV absorbers and led to the approval of 7 new, organic UV absorbers in Europe over the last few years. The significant progress due to these new UV absorbers will be discussed in this report. These UV absorbers provide an efficient absorption of UV radiation (UVB and/or UVA) and easily incorporate in any kind of formulation. These are also safe, i.e. devoid of adverse effects. These new filters give the formulators new possibilities to cover the whole UV range iron 290 to 400 nm, and also to use less filter due to the boosting effect of the new UVA and broadband fitters.

Key Words

sunscreen, skin protection, organic UV absorber

이종권 Jong Kwon Lee , 신지순 Ji Soon Sin , 김진호 Jin Ho Kim , 엄준호 Jun Ho Eom , 김형수 Hyung Soo Kim , 박귀례 Kui Lea Park

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Abstract

Safety is one of the key issue in the regulation of cosmetics. Cosmetic Act deals with it in Korea. The guidance for the testing cosmetic ingredients and their safety evaluation are prepared by Korea Food and Drug Administration. Ultraviolet radiation could Induce skin damage, edema, erythema, photoaging, immune dysfunction and skin cancer. Ultraviolet radiation is classified as Group 2A(probably carcinogenic to humans) by International Agenry for Reaserch on Cancer(IARC). The in vitro methodologies for evaluating the toxic potential of ingredients reported in the literature have not yet been sufficiently validated for use in areas other than the study for mutagenicity/genotoxicity, for pre-screening for severe irritancy, for screening of phototoxicity and for evaluating the percutaneous absorption. The 3T3 neutral red uptake photoxicity test (3T3 NRU PT) was accepted as OECD toxicity guideline in 2002. The 3T3 NRU PT is an in vitro method based on a comparison of the cytotoxicitv of a chemical when tested in the presence and in the absence of exposure to a non-cytotoxic dose of UVA/visible light.

Key Words

ultraviolet irradiation, safety, 3T3 NRU PT

김남수 Nam Soo Kim , 김용민 Yong Min Kim

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Abstract

Assurance of the objectivity and reproducibility is a major key point in wrinkle measurement used for evaluating the degree of skin aging. The measurement of relief is quickly converted to a non-contact method, of which tools or instruments do not come in contact with skin directly, to minimize the artificial effects which influence the shape or depth of the relief. Here, we showed how wrinkle measurement techniques have been changed briefly and compared PRIMOS and replica method in the point of view of measurement principle and features, the former is non-contact fringe projection tool and the latter is contact type of the method.

Key Words

micro-relief, fringe projection, PRIMOS, roughness, digital micro-mirror device(DMD)

김남수 Nam Soo Kim , 이경훈 Kyung Hoon Lee

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Abstract

The aim of the present study is to evaluate relationship between UV-induced MED and perfusion value assessed by Laser Doppler Perfusion Imager. In this study, A increasing linear relationship is seen between perfusion and dose (p<0.05). The dose-response curve show a steep slope in the case of lower MED values group after MED point, For higher MED group, increase with a gentle slope.

Key Words

dose-respone curve, minimal erythema dose, laser doppler perfusion imager(LDPI)

임혜원 Hye-won Lim , 김주연 Ju-yeon Kim

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Abstract

This study is performed to investigate the effects of citrus essential oils on melanin production in B16 melanoma cells and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in RBL 2H3 cells. Five kinds of citrus essential oil (bergamot, grapefruit, lemmon, mandarin, petigrain) did not have any influence on DPPH radical scavenger activity, cell growth and cytotoxicity in B16 melanoma cells. In purified tyrosinase assay, both mandarin and petigrain essential oils dose-dependently inhibited its activity, but bergamot did not. In 1 μM α-MSH-stimulated B16 melanoma cells, all of 5 citrus essential oils inhibited melanin production in a dose dependent manner. On the other hand, four kinds of citrus essential oil dose-dependently increased ROS generation in RBL 2H3 mast cells, but mandarin did not. From the above results, it is possible that citrus essential oils nay be developed to be anti-melanogenic agent on the basis of their inhibitory effect on MSH-induced melanin production. Hut we can not rule out the possibility of the induction of allergy and inflammation since citrus essential oils caused ROS generation in RBL 2H3 mast cells.

Key Words

melanin, tyrosinase, ROS, citrus essential oils

정세규 Se Kyoo Jeong , 김정기 Jeong Kee Kim , 백지훈 Jihwoon Baek , 이기무 Ki Moo Lee , 조인식 In Shik Cho , 이승훈 Seung Hun Lee

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Abstract

This study was performed to develop new cosmeceutical agents with sebosuppressive activity from native plant extracts in Korea. Inhibitory efforts of the extracts on 5α-reductase (5-AR) were evaluated by enzyme kinetics analysis using UV-spectrophotometric method. Two kinds of enzyme suspensions as 5-AR sources were prepared from rat liver tissue and cultured hSG cells. The sebosuppressive effects were determined by measuring the total lipid quantity produced in cultured hSG cells after incubation with the extracts. As a result, Pinus thunbergii extracts showed the most potent 5-AR inhibitory effects. Its Ki values were 0.0002% and 0.0014% for rat liver 5-AR and human sebaceous gland 5-AR, respectively. Addition of Pinus thunberii extract to hSG cells showed 48% reduction in total lipid production at 0.005% concentration. In conclusion, Pinus thunbergii extracts can be used as a cosmeceutical agent to regulate sebum production and to alleviate the sebum-involved skin diseases, such as acne and seborrheic dermatitis.

Key Words

Pinus thunbergii extract, 5α-Reductase, sebaceous gland derived cells, sebosuppresive activity

강수경 Soo Kyung Kang , 류소연 So Yeon Ryu , 박종 Jong Park

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Abstract

The content of lipid or moisture and index of erythema or melanin on each facial part of 170 urban middle-aged women without dermic disease was measured by non-invasive method. This measurement intended to understand the skin condition on each facial part of middle-aged women, and to determine the correlation between objective measured values and subjective symptom of lipid content/moisture content. The results was summarized as follows. At each facial Part, the order of moisture content was eye rims, forehead, and cheek and that of lipid content was forehead, eye rims, and cheek. The erythema index was in the order of forehead, cheek and eye rims and melanin index, in the order of eye rims, forehead and cheek. It turned out that the middle-aged women generally lacked lipid content rather than moisture one. The objective measured values of lipid content coincided with subjective symptom of lipid type. The lipid content, erythema index and melanin index showed correlation significantly.

Key Words

skin condition, moisture content, lipid content, erythema index, melanin index