심관섭 Gwan Sub Sim , 김진희 Jin Hui Kim , 김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 이동환 Dong Hwan Lee , 박성민 Sung Min Park , 이범천 Bum Chun Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

DOI:

Abstract

UV irradiation produces free radicals and related reactive oxygen species (ROS), and these are injury to all most of organisms of skin cells and extracellular matrix (ECM). In addition, free radicals and ROS stimulate the overexpression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that can degrade most components of ECM such as collagen. Since collagen constitutes almost of skin connective tissue, their disarrangement causes wrinkle formation and droop of skin. Therefore, scavenging activity on free radicals, ROS and suppression of MMP-1 is expected to prevent skin photoaging. In this study, to investigate the relationship between photoaging and Draconis sanguis, we examined the effects of antioxidant, in vitro MMP inhibition and expression of UVA-induced MMP-1 in human dermal fibroblasts. Draconis sanguis was found to show scavenging activities of radicals and ROS with the IC₅₀ values of 183 ㎍/mL against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and 30 ㎍/mL against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. Draconis sunguis inhibited the activities of MMP-1 in a does-dependent manner and the IC₅₀ value calculated from semi-log plots was 200 ㎍/mL. Also, UVA induced MMP expression was reduced 74% by treatment with Draconis sanguis, and MMP-1 mRNA expression was reduced in a dose-dependent manner. Therefore Draconis sanguis was able to significantly inhibit MMP expression in protein and mRNA level. All these results suggested that Draconis sanguis may act as an anti-photoaging agent by antioxidation and reducing UVA-induced MMP-1 production.

Key Words

Draconis sanguis, antioxidant, MMP, human dermal fibroblast, UVA

이강태 Kang Tai Lee , 이정노 Jeong No Lee , 안기웅 Gi Woong Ahn , 정지헌 Ji Hean Jeong , 조병기 Byoung Kee Jo

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Abstract

Aging is divided into intrinsic aging and photo-aging. Intrinsic aging is naturally occurred as the time passed and photo-aging is induced by the UV radiation of skin. The main reason of aging is the free radicals and the degeneration of the cellular materials by free radicals. In this paper, we checked the anti-aging effects of Mallotus japonicus bark extracts. It has the ability to scavenge free radicals and the SOD like activity. Also, it reduced the cell damage by hydrogen peroxide treatment. Mallotus japonicus bark extracts showed the excellent activity on inhibiting the UV induced cell damage and DNA damage. In conclusion, Mallotus japonicus bark extracts can be used as active ingredients for anti-aging cosmetics.

Key Words

Mallotus japonicus bark extracts, free radicals, cell protection, anti-aging

김미진 Mi Jin Kim , 김자영 Ja Young Kim , 최상원 Sang-won Choi , 홍진태 Jin Tae Hong , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

Phytoestrogens derived from plants and foods, which are diphenolic compounds with structural similarities to natural and synthetic estrogens, have been shown to estrogenic and antiestrogenic actions. Particularly, recent study revealed that phenolic compounds in safflower seed, such as serotonin derivatives, lignans and flavonoids, could be acted as phytoestrogens. Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) seed extract (SID C.SE), therefore, are receiving a renewed interest as potential therapeutic source against skin wrinkles induced by estrogen deficiency. This study was conducted to investigate the anti-wrinkle effect of SID C.SE on normal human fibroblasts through the expression of type I procollagen and UVA-induced MMP-1 in vitro. The SID C.SE increased the type I procollagen expression, comparable to trans-retinol and reduced UVA-induced MMP-1 expression in a dose-dependent manner. The clinical study indicated that cream group treated with 0.1% SID C.SE significantly reduced a skin wrinkles, as compared with a control (non-treated cream group) (p<0.05). These results suggest that the safflower seed extract may be useful as potential source of anti-wrinkle cosmetics.

Key Words

phytoestrogen, safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) seed extract, anti-wrinkle effect, type I procollagen, MMP-1

김광수 Kwang Soo Kim , 최근호 Gun Ho Choi , 최장우 Jang Woo Choi , 최준학 Jun Hak Choi , 한송희 Song Hee Han , 남상윤 Sang Yun Nam , 이승화 Seung Hwa Lee

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Abstract

Anti-wrinkle effect of N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine (NAG) was evaluated by collagen synthesis and proliferation of normal human fibroblast. NAG was obtained by purifying deacetylated chitin which can be derived from chitin-rich crab shell. We studied in in-vitro cultures of human normal fibroblast, whether synthesis of collagens and fibroblast growth activation in these cells can be enhanced in the presence of NAG. It did not show any adverse effects in human skin irritation patch test. In in-vivo mouse test, it showed anti-wrinkle effect in hairless mouse (6W/F). From the HPLC analysis, the stability of NAG in the cosmetics product could be maintained for a long time. These results demonstrated that NAS can be useful anti-wrinkle cosmetic ingredient.

Key Words

anti-wrinkle, collagen synthesis, stable ingredient, hairless mouse

김희정 Hee Jung Kim , 이미연 Mi Youn Lee , 안병옥 Byoung Ok Ahn , 이정환 Jung Hwan Lee , 김병문 Byung Moon Kim , 이성희 Sung Hee Lee , 권종원 Jong Won Kwon , 김원배 Won Bae Kim

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Abstract

Artificial skin culture broth (DA-3711) was developed by using Dong-A pharmaceutical's artificial skin culture technique, and it contains plenty of nutrients, natural extracellular matrix proteins and human growth factors, which may improve aged skin conditions. The anti-aging effect of DA-3711 was investigated both in vitro and in vivo. Furthermore the clinical studies showed that DA-3711 had been very effective in improving firmness and reducing wrinkles. The results suggest that the novel anti-wrinkle agent. DA-3711, may have anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects by stimulating skin regeneration.

Key Words

artificial skin culture, natural extracellular matrix protein, human growth factors, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle

이근수 Geun-soo Lee , 김진화 Jin-wha Kim , 이천일 Chun-il Lee , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo , 이공주 Kong-joo Lee

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Abstract

Exposure to elevated temperatures, chemical (active oxigen), or physical stress (UV light) induces immediate physiological response, the expression of heat shock proteins in cells. Thus, cells with elevated Heat Shock Protein levels become more tolerant to stress conditions that are otherwise lethal. First, we studied on the new function of glucuronic acid (GA) as preventive material of skin aging. The application of the GA shows significant induction of Heat Shock Protein 70 kDa (HSP 70 kDa) in contrast to cells without it. GA at the concentration which can induce HSP 70 kDa, protects the cell death induced by second stress (heat shock and hydrogen peroxide) in NIH3T3 cells. Second, we studied on in vitro transdermal permeation characteristic of GA through the excised mouse skin. In this study, we compared the skin permeability of GA in water with O/W emulsion. As a result, skin permeation parameters of GA shows lag time 1.2 h, partition coefficient 0.114, permeation flult rate 0.83114 mg/㎠/h. In case of lag time, O/W emulsion containing GA increase 2.48 h. Also, the total accumulation permeation content decreased in contrast to GA solution after 24 h. But it has long-term permeability of glucuronic acid. These results suggest that glucuronic acid could be a good cosmetic active ingredient.

Key Words

glucuronic acid, heat shock protein, anti-aging, o/w emulsion, long-term permeability

한정선 Jung-sun Han , 곽은영 Eun-young Kwak , 이향복 Hyang-bok Lee , 신정현 Jung-hyun Shin , 백승학 Seung-hak Baek , 정봉현 Bong-hyun Chung , 김은기 Eun-ki Kim

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Abstract

An attempt was made to develop a proteinchip for screening of MITF (microphthalmia transcription factor) inhibitor. Binding of MITF to E-box causes transcription of several pigmenting genes including tyrosinase gene. We investigated binding of MITF and its DNA binding site (E-box) using a protein-DNA chip with various detection methods including flurorescence (Cyt3). SPR (surface plasmon resonance) and SPRi (surface plasmon resonance imaging). A fusion protein (MITF-Maltose Binding Protein) was attached on the glass plate by chemical modification. An inhibitory synthetic DNA oligomer, artificially designed based on the E-box sequence, inhibited the binding of MITF and E-box. These results showed the potentials of flurorescence-based MITF protein chip as a microarray for high throughput screening (HTS) system of depigmenting agents.

Key Words

MITF (microphthalmia transcription factor), E-bok, β-CD, microarray, fluoresence-based detection

부희정 Hee-jung Bu , 류기중 Key-zung Riu , 이선주 Sunjoo Lee

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Abstract

Melanin pigmentation in human skin is a major defensive mechanism against ultraviolet light of the sun. Tyrosinase plays a key role in the biosynthesis of melanin. This is why many researches have been focused on regulations in controlling the epidermal melanization. We found that extract of Canavalia lineata inhibits mushroom tyrosinase activity, dopa oxidase activity, and melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. To elucidate mRNA level reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) technique was used. It was revealed that A subfraction of CHCI₃ extract of Canavalia lineara reduced the tyrosinase mRNA expression of B16F10 melanoma cells by reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) technique.

Key Words

Canavalia lineata THUNB, DC, tyrosinase, dopa oxidase, melanogenesis, melanin content

성낙도 Nack-do Sung , 정훈성 Hoon-sung Jung , 김상진 Sang-jin Kim

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Abstract

Holographic quantitative structure activity relationships (HQSAR) between the melanogenesis inhibitory activities of alkyl-3,4-dihydroxybenzoate (A) and N-Alkyl-3,4-dihydroxybenzamide (B) derivatives were analyzed and discussed. The statistical results of HQSAR model for the activities showed the best predictability of the activities based on the cross-validated r²_cv(q²=0.674), non-cross-validated, conventional coefficient (r²_ncv=0.936). The melanogenesis inhibitory activities and hydrolytic reactivity of (A) were slightly higher than that of (B) (A>B) and the activities depends upon the R₁-substituents (R₁>R₂). It has been found using frontier molecular orbital (FMO) theory that the hydrolysis reactions of (A) and (B) proceeded to an orbital-controlled reactions, while the nucleophillc addition-elimination reactions (Ad_N-E) between LUMO energy of (A) and (B) and HOMO energy of water molecule are occurred.

Key Words

Holographic QSAR analyses, nucleophillc addition-elimination reaction

서정민 Jeong Min Seo , 안정엽 Jeung-youb Ahn

DOI:

Abstract

DPPH radical-generating system was used to evaluate the antioxidant properties of the Rosaceae. The inhibitory effects of ethanolic extracts from Rosaceae plants were investigated on melanin biosynthesis which is closely related to hyperpigmentation. Of the Rosaceae extracts, Prunus sargentii, Rubus coreanus, Chaenomeles sinensis, Photinia glabra and Pyrus pyrifolia showed a potent inhibition of tyrosinase, the enzyme which converts 3-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) alanine (dopa) to dopachrome in the melanin biosynthetic process. Furthermore, MMT assay was used to check the cytotoxicity of extracts on the human foreskin fibroblast cell line, Hs68. Among the Rosaceae, bark of Prunus sargentii, bark wood of Photinia glabra and all parts or Chaenomeles sinensis showed more than 50% inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity at 100 ㎍/mL and more than 80% of strong DPPH radical-scavenging activity at 10 ㎍/mL. In audition to, they had no cytotoxic activity on Hs68. These results suggest that these extracts might be except a controler in pigmentation.

Key Words

rosaceae, tyrosinase, 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), MTT

안정엽 Jeung-youb Ahn , 이성숙 Sung-suk Lee , 강하영 Ha-young Kang

DOI:

Abstract

The essential oil from Chamaecyparis obtusa was investigated for biological activities in anti-oxidative, anti-inflammation and antibacterial method, respectively. The Growth inhibitory effect of C. obtusa oil on the bacteria was evaluated with MIC (minimum inhibitory concentration), IC₅₀ (50% inhibitory concentration), and paper disc method. Two kinds of gram positive strains and two kinds of gram negative strains were used in this study. Gram positive strains were B. subtilis and S. aureus. and Gram negative strains were E. coli and P. aeruginosa. Gram positive strains showed much more intensive effect than gram negative strains. Anti-oxidative effect was investigated with DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhidrazyl) in methanol based and IC₅₀ was 0.78%. Our results suggest that the essential oil from Chamaecyparis obtusa has effects on anti-bacterial, anti- oxidative and anti-inflammation in in vitro and in uiuo. Then this material could be expect synergic effect with other candidated extracts and oils.

Key Words

Chamaecyparis obtusa, essential oil, biological activity, anti-oxidant, antibacterial

김영실 Young Sil Kim , 김종헌 Jong Heon Kim , 김기호 Ki Ho Kim

DOI:

Abstract

The fruit or root of Ulmus davidiana var. Japonica and its extract has traditionally been used as anti inflammatation medicines as well as a remedy of the digestive ulcer for a long time. Ulmus davidiana var. Japonica has also been used to cure palliative and diuresis, because it contains lot of mucus and tannin. In this study, we examined the moisturizing effect and anti-inflammation effect of polysaccharides extracted from Ulmus davidiana var. Japonica to investigated whether it can be used as a cosmetic ingredient or not. The polysaccharides were extracted from Ulmus davidiana var. Japonica. Then the hydrolyzed was obtained through the hydrolysis. It has been ascertained that the polysaccharides we mainly composed of rhamnose, galactose, and glucose through HPLC experiments, and it has 20,000 of the molecular weight and 89.3 dL/g of intrinsic viscosity In a moisturizing test of measuring water loss in a desiccator and moisture content by Comeometer CM820, Ulmus davidiana root extract showed a similar moisturizing effect as hyaluronic acid. And its anti-inflammation effect on carrageenin-induced edema evaluated by measuring the thickness of swelling over paw induced by carrageenin (25 μL of 2% carrageenin saline injection), the % swelling over paw treated with Ulmus davidiana root extract was much less than that of paw treated with carrageenin only. The anti-inflammatory effect of Ulmus davidiana root extract was almost similar to that of ketoprofen. These results can say that Ulmus davidiana root extract can be effectively used as a cosmetic ingredient.

Key Words

Ulmus davidiana, moisturizing effect, anti-inflammatory, Polysccharride, cosmeceuticals, swelling

조춘구 Choon Koo Zhoh , 한창규 Chang Giu Han , 송환 Hwan Song

DOI:

Abstract

Inositol and phytic acid extracted from rice bran were investigated for applying cosmetics. Skin lotions containing 0~3.0 wt% inositol and 0~1.50 wt% phytic acid were applied respectively, to the arm skins of 45 Asian women 20'~40's for 7 weeks. Improvement on moisture was evaluated. In addition, improvements on sebum, elasticity, and wrinkle were examined after applying placebo, inositol and phytic acid-containing skin lotions tot face, respectively. For 1.0 wt% inositol, it resulted in 19% increase of moisture. The wrinkle reduction and elasticity improved 12.4% and 17.0% on average, respec-tively. Applying 0.5 wt% phytic acid resulted in 71.6% increase the moisture. Improvements on wrinkle and elasticity were 16.9% and 21.9% respectivelv. hpplving inositol or phytic acid regardless of dry or oily skin, resulted in sebum value recovery to that of the normal skin after 2~4 weeks. Although inositol is inferior to phytic acid in improvements of the skin, phytic acid is not suitable to sensitive skin. So, 0~0.50 wt% of phytic acid were added to 1.0 wt% inositol and similar experiments were carried out. In case of added 1.0 wt% phytic acid, moisture increased 63.8% approximately. Improvements on elasticity and reduction on wrinkle were 17.2% and 17.4%, respectively. Both skin types were turned to normal skin type after 2 weeks. It could improve the skin condition when used inositol added phytic acid. The optimized concentration of phytic acid was 0.10 wt% with 1.0 wt% of inositol without side effect.

Key Words

rice bran, inositol, phytic acid, moisture value, skin elasticity, wrinkle improvement

박지나 Ji Na Park , 배재흠 Jae Heum Bae , 임호 Ho Lim

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Abstract

N-acyl taurates are known as environmental-friendly and non-irritating to skin. In this study, the physicochemical properties of N-acyl taurates, which are amide-type anionic surfactants, were measured and also compared with sulfate-type anionic surfactants that show low biodegradability and are highly irritating to skin. The possibility of replacing the currently existing sulfate-type surfactants by N-acyl taurates was examined. Based on the experimental results, shampoos were formulated with these anionic surfactants and their stability and properties were measured. The possibility of application of amide-type surfactants to personal care cleaner was evaluated. Experimental results show that N-acyl taurates have various favorable aspects in making personal care cleanser: high viscosity, low surface tension, and low CMC values. These properties of N-acyl taurates generate nano-scale particles in emulsion, which is stable due to its high viscosity. This emulsion also has good cleaning ability with small amount of usage due to easy penetration into contaminants. Shampoo with N-methyl oleyl taurate showed high yield point and constant viscosity, and formed stable emulsion with nano-scale uniform particles. These results suggest that N-acyl taurates play an important role in making stable Interior structure in shampoo, and which improves the storage property.

Key Words

N-acyl taurate, anionic surfactant, personal care cleaner, shampoo

유창선 Chang-seon Yu , 김선희 Seon-hee Kim , 김주덕 Ju-duck Kim

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Abstract

Atopic dermatitis, also called congenital fever, is a allergic eczema of chronic itching disease. It is a recurrent and familial disease and appears on a wide age group from infant to adult. It is very common, and the ratio of occurrence is about 9~12% of a child. However. it is showing trend of continuous increase by social and natural environment, food culture, and life style, recently. The human skin plays a barrier role against a physical and chemical stimulus from external environment. According to the latest study, the decreased amount of ceramide in horny layer impairs the bier function and moisture-maintaining function of skin in atopic dematitis patient. Ceramide is a kind of the sphingolipid in which a fatty acid is connected to sphingosin. Ceramide constitutes about 40% of total lipid between keratinocytes and has the function of defense wall and building regular structure to suppress moisture vaporization in horny layer. In horny layer of skin a comified cell is composed of multi-layer structure of a brick shape, and, as for this cornified cell, it is strongly connected by ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acid. Here, we described the effects of a cream containing ceramide on the recovery of skin harrier function of atopic dermatitis patient. The safety and efficacy of latex and liquid formula were evaluated as cosmetics for atopic dermatitis. The latex products was composed of intercellular lipid components-ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acid-to restore skin barrier function in atopic dermatitis patients. The liquid one contained beta-glucan, magnolia extracts, and licolice extracts, which have skin immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory effects. It is also confirmed that their possibility on new cosmetic market of atopic dermatitis.

Key Words

atopic dermatitis, sphingolipid, ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acid

소태섭 Tae-sup So , 고두진 Du-jin Go , 노희수 Hee-su Ro , 김상범 Sang-bum Kim , 김태원 Tae-won Kim , 김중회 Joong-hoi Kim

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Abstract

For pearl pigments used for splendor or gloss effect of make-up products, especially point make-up products like eye-shadow and blusher, we studied the variation of particle size distribution by the grinding time and by the binder used as a binding agent. In this study, high speed mixer was used and the particle sire distribution was measured by using the light scattering method. In case of pearl pigments, its median diameter of 5 ㎛, the particle size was reduced to 4.6 um when it was ground for 120 s. When it was applied for the pearl pigment of 45 ㎛, the particle size was reduced to 27 ㎛. We confirmed that the latter was reduced more largely and the original gloss was reduced too. For the binder, we studied the correlation between particle size of raw material and grinding time. We also investigated the effects of the binder contents on the variation of particle size distribution of products by aggregation of particles.

Key Words

particle size distribution, pearl pigments, binder, grinding time, size reduction

김은영 Eun-young Kim , 장석태 Seok-tae Jang , 정성운 Soung-oun Choung , 홍태원 Tae-won Hong

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Abstract

ATP bioluminescence system and impedance system were evaluated with the objective of reducing the time for microbial analysis of cosmetics formulations from 72 to 24 h. The meaningful correlation (at least 95%) was achieved when emulsion were artificially contaminated with low levels of different organisms, including Pseudomonas aeruinosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli and Ralstonia mannitolilytica. The standard agar plate method, ATP bioluminescence and impedance method were used for in this study. Successful evaluation and validation of automated systems has enabled the introduction of ATP bioluminescence and impedance method into routine use within the microbiology laboratory. This has provided a rapid assessment of product quality, resulting in faster throughput and resource maximization.

Key Words

microbial analysis, cosmetics, rapid assessment, ATP bioluminescence, impedance

한상길 Sang Kil Han , 랑문정 Moon Jeong Rang

DOI:

Abstract

The fragrance, created by imagination and aesthetic sense of perfumer, is the essential part to make a hit of product in the 'Emotional consumption era' which producer has to more carefully treat even small parts of product. In this paper, I considered perfume trend and bottle design newly started at the beginning of the 21st century which people persue the peace of mind, and seek the natural fragrance trend and new tendency of aromatherapy technology.

Key Words

fragrance, perfume, trend, aromatherapy

정효숙 Hyo-sook Joung , 김주덕 Ju-duck Kim

DOI:

Abstract

The purpose of this research is to examine the level of understanding, current management and degree of satisfaction about “Cosmeceuticals” among pharmacists running pharmacists. Using this research as a foundation, pharmacies are able to prepare an implementation plan for the marketing of “Cosmeceuticais”. The level of understanding among pharmacists surveyed was found to be rather low as yet, and it will be necessary to increase their specialized knowledge. Through this analysis of current conditions, several means for pharmacies to implement marketing of “Cosmeceuticals” are evident. These include expanding the definition of “Cosmeceuticals” reforming the system for inspecting “Cosmeceuticals”, developing and distributing various specialized “Cosmeceuticals”, initiating training for increasing the level of specialized knowledge of pharmacists, developing public information by corporations and consumer networks, driving coordinated marketing with medical associations, linking marketing with health foods, ensuring display space at pharmacies, and offering knowledgeable consultations and detailed information about the products. This research is significant in that it shows that a plan reforming pharmacy management, which is affected by the environment in pharmacies such as the separation of pharmacies from medical practices, should include the an increase in marketing for “Cosmeceuticals”. This research will be of great usefulness in forming a foundation for the sales strategy and manufacturing of “Cosmeceuticals” by pharmacists, for the training of distributors about “Cosmeceuticals”, and for developing a distribution strategy.

Key Words

cosmeceuticals, Pharmacist, marketing strategy, training

김강미 Kang-mi Kim , 김주덕 Ju-duck Kim

DOI:

Abstract

Recently the well-being, which is regarded as the new cultural code, has brought a new change in the cosmetic industry. The application of the functional products is getting mere and lots of functional cosmetics are now diversifying from the skin-care into the make-up as well as the herbal products. So the future in the market of functional cosmetic products is prospected to be positive. Therefore, cosmetic companies need an approach bases on the concept of the well-being. So to speak, they need to understand the needs of customers accurately from the customers point of view. Also it is a crucial issue that how the unique characteristics of functional cosmetic products as well as the development of products base on the concept of well-being make in balance. In this study, we attempt to inspect the advanced domestic market of the functional products due to the well-being trend and try to propose an option of making an advance it through the customers survey (for example, their need and their satisfaction on the functional products, etc) on the functional cosmetic products. For this purpose, it has been surveyed on adult female customers aged 19 to 60 located in Seoul and Gyeonggi province. 379 questionnaires among 510 were used in the final analysis. Collected data was analyzed using the statistical package for the social science (SPSS) program that can give the information about the general characteristics of the subjects like the frequency and percentage. And we used Cronbach's α reliability test, x² (chi-square) frequency analysis, t-test, and one-wat ANOVA to investigate the customers need, their degree of the satisfaction on the functional products of their own, factors of their perception on the quality on them. We think that the results of our study can act not only as the fundamental data on the customers need, their usage pattern, and their degree of the satisfaction, but also as the important tips of planning the marketing strategies.

Key Words

cosmeceuticals, requirement, degree of the satisfaction, korean women