김종득 Jong-duk Kim , 정재현 Jae Hyun Jung

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Abstract

Colloid and surface chemistry have been focused on surface area and surface energy. Local surface properties such as surface density, interaction, molecular orientation and reactivity have been one of interesting subjects. Systems of such surface energy being important would be listed as association colloid, emulsion, particle dispersion, foam, and 2-D surface and film. Such nanoparticle systems would be applied to drug delivery systems and functional cosmetics with biocompatible and degradable materials, while nanoparticles having its size of several nm to micron, and wide surface area, have been accepted as a possible drug carrier because their preparation, characteristics and drug loading have been inves-tigated. The biocompatible carriers were also used for the solubilization of insoluble drugs, the enhancement of skin absorption, the block out of UV radiation, the chemical stabilization and controlled release. Nano/micro emulstion system is classified into nano/microsphere, nano/microcapsule, nano/microemulsion, polymeric micelle, liposome according to its prep-aration method and size. Specially, the preparation method and industrial applications have been introduced for polymeric micelles self-assembled in aqueous solution, nano/microapsules controlling the concentration and activity of high concen-tration and activity materials, and monolayer or multilayer liposomes carrying bioactive ingredients.

Key Words

nano/microsphere, nano/microcapsule, nano/microemulsion, polymer micelle, liposome

강학희 Hak Hee Kang

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Abstract

In cosmetics industry, we notice that the research should be focused on developing well-being related products such as SPA, esthetique, mass-customization, organics, naturals besides inner beauty and body shaping products. These well-being related products should satisfy customers' expectation about not only concern about health but also safety, reliability, and ethos about products. In that context, the systematic way for well-being related research in cosmetics should be carried out concerning anti-aging with fat-decomposition, vitamin, polyphenol, and organics. At the same time, there are several important factors in this research like augmenting efficacy, controlling skin-absorbency, skin-adaptability, forming, stabilization of activated components, improving sustainability, and developing new materials based on dermatologic and emotional science. It should be also emphasized that recent technologies such as bio-technology, nano-technology, and natural-material-technology are the cornerstones of developing well-being products.

Key Words

well-being, cosmetics, health, vitamin, polyphenols, safety

김주영 Juyoung Kim , 김현애 Hyunae Kim , 박경호 Kyungho Park , 조윤희 Yunhi Cho

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Abstract

Human skin is continuously exposed to internal and external influences that may affect its condition and functioning. To maintain and improve skin condition, a wide variety of skin-care products is in the market. However, many of skin problems originate from internal causes, and the new insight into the relation between nutritional factors and skin is now receiving a great attention. Specific positive effects of nutrients or nutraceutical compounds on skin conditions may prove to be biologically relevant and may consequently allow for claims on products containing these compounds, resulting in the development of new functional food for optimal skin condition. In this review, these functions of nutrients and nutraceutical compounds in skin are summarized as providing a basis for the feasibility of the concept of functional foods for maintaining and improving skin condition.

Key Words

skin, functional food, nutrients, nutraceutical compound

박승규 Seungkyu Park , 김종윤 Jongyun Kim , 조완구 Wangoo Cho

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Abstract

Nano silica ball and nano carbon ball are developed commercially by template synthesis method. Adsorption of unpleasant smelling substances such as ammonia, trimethylamine, acetaldehyde and methyl mercaptane onto nano carbon ball with hollow macroporous core/mesoporous shell structures, nano carbon ball, was investigated and compared with that onto odor adsorbent materials, activated carbon, commercially available. The adsorption and decomposition of malodor at nano carbon ball exhibited superior than those onto activated carbon. The physicochemical properties such as mesopore size distributions, large nitrogen BET specific surface area and large pore volume and decomposition of malodor were studied to interpret the predominant adsorption performance. The nano carbon ball is expected to be useful in many applications such as deodorizers, adsorbent of pollutants.

Key Words

nano silica ball (NSB), nano carbon ball (NCB), malodor, adsorption

김기호 Ki Ho Kim , 고강일 Kang Il Ko , 강은정 Eun Jung Kang , 양은경 Eun Kyung Yang , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

Recently, our society has prominently raised the desire to well-being life since not only our economical situations are better than before, but environmental pollution become serious. In well-being trends, the natural or nature-related products are also issued on their usages as bio-/raw materials for our living industries, such as cosmetics, household goods, and so on. Especially, various materials which comes from medicinal plants has been discovered their physiological properties and validated their functions. Thus, they have been subjected to several processes, including extraction, isolation and concentration, and popularly introduced to cosmetic industry. In these reasons, a variety of cosmetic Products using natural materials has been developed, which are focused on whitening, wrinkle improvement, and anti-aging. In this report, we present a brief review of the function and classification of natural products interested in until now, and introduce the natural materials for cosmetics having physiological activities on skin, including Fructan, Acrea extract, Portulaca extract, Licorce extract, Dandelion extract, Ulmus extract, SC-glucan, Arbutin, and Sophora extract.

Key Words

well-being, natural product, cosmetic materials, whitening, wrinkle improvement

박병덕 Byeong Deog Park , 염종경 Jong Kyung Youm , 안성구 Sung Ku Ahn , 이승헌 Seung Hun Lee

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Abstract

There are two paradigms to explain the atopic dermatitis. The first is outside-inside paradigm and the second is inside-outside paradigm. According to the outside-inside paradigm the best way to treat the atopic dermatitis is recovery of skin barrier function. The barrier function is maintained by the specific structure of stratum corneum, which is constructed from corneocytes and intercellular lipids. In terms of lipid structures of SC in atopic dermatitis and lamellar ichthyosis, they contain more fluid hexagonal gel structures in SC and show deficiencies in free fatty acids, especially long chains and certain ceramides. With this reason, moisturizer which has the lamellar structure and restoring function of intrinsic intercellualr long periodicity phase can maintain and restore the lamellar structure of intercellular lipids in SC. The moisturizers containing ceramide or pseudoceramide also seem to be reasonable therapy for atopic dermatitis and several skin diseases, which interrelated with impaired skin harrier. By the way, according to the inside-outside paradigm, immune response including helper T cells, IgE, eosinophils is related. It is effective treatment of atopic dermititis to restore imbalance between Th1 and Th2 cells. Even though several kinds of immune-suppressor were introduced, these can affect the intrinsic immune function. SPC and S1P, metabolites of ceramide, would be interesting because they have the function of wound healing and immune modulating properties.

Key Words

inside-outside paradigm, outside-inside paradigm, multi-lamellar emulsion (MLE), pseudoceramide, immune function

김진황 Jin-hwang Kim , 김송이 Song-e Kim , 경기열 Kee-yeol Kyong , 이은주 Eun-joo Lee , 윤명석 Moung-seok Yoon

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Abstract

The extent of silica flocculation can be modified by varying the silica concentration, aqueous phase pH, salt and polvmer concentration. High volume fraction W/O emulsion stabilized by hydrophobic silica was established with various aqueous phase conditions for cosmetic application. By increasing the silica concentration up to 1.0 wt%, the size of droplet decreased. A high silica concentration increased the viscosity of continuous oil phase by network formation, which resulted in target size of droplet. The stability of W/O emulsion is improved as increasing the aqueous phase pH. At low and intermediate pH, the emulsions became more stable by adding salt (0.083 mol dm^-3 MgSO₄). At high PH, the presence of salt caused significant destabilization. The gelation behavior of the emulsion indicates that the effect of salt on silica-stabilized emulsion is derived from an electrostatic attraction. The addition of xanthan gum in aqueous phase increased the mono-dispersity of the W/O emulsion by making water more hydrophobic and hindering the recombination of droplets. In conclusion, these results indicate that very stable emulsifier-free, finely dispersed W/O emulsion can be achieved for cosmetic application by changing the aqueous phase composition.

Key Words

pickering emulsion, emulsifier-free, w/o emulsion, silica

이종석 Jong-suk Lee , 김진웅 Jin-woong Kim , 김준오 Junoh Kim , 한상훈 Sang-hoon Han , 장이섭 Ih-seop Chang

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Abstract

In this study, a different UV (ultra-violet) ray absorption system is presented in which butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM, a model UV-A absorbent, 320~400 nm) is stabilized in phase-controlled poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) microspheres. The photochemistry of BMDM in the microspheres was investigated considering its phase characteristics therein. The analysis of a differential scanning calorimeter and X-ray diffractometer showed that the BMDM in the microspheres was present with a non-crystalline state. The phase control of BMDM in the polymer microsphere has an excellent ability to protect UV-A with maintaining its photo- and thermal stability. The results obtained in this study illustrate well that the phase control of the UV absorbents in the polymer microspheres is another key factor that determines its photochemistry and photostability in the final formulations.

Key Words

UV ray absorption, phase-controlled, non-crystalline, photostability, photochemistry

조춘구 Choon-koo Zhoh , 김인영 In-young Kim , 한창규 Chang-giu Han

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Abstract

In this study, liquid crystalline (LC) is formed using Gemini surfactant (GS) type and moisturizing effect in vivo is measured. 3.0 wt% of sodium dicocoyl ethylene diamine (PEG)-15 sulfate (SCD-PEG-15S) is used as GS and 4.0 wt% of hydrogenated dimer acid esters (HDAE) as booster. For stabilizers, 2.0 wt% of behenyl alcohol (BA) and 1.0 wt% of lyso-lecithin (LyL) are utilized. It is stabilized in pH from 4.0 to 10.5 and the best condition is in pH 6.5. The value of viscosity is 8,000 ± 500 cP. The most excellent particles are formed within the range of 4.0 to 15.5 um. Formed LC is observed around LC particles using polarization microscope. It is also observed that lamellar gel network structure is formed around LC particles. Moisturizing effect is improved by 13.6% (*P<0.05) compared to control when measured 30 min later after coating samples. After 1 h, moisturizing effect is improved by 12.6% (*P<0.05) than control while showing 28.3% (*P<0.05) of improvement after 4 h. These results may be caused from that manufactured LC forms lamellar structure so that it has better water-holding ability and absorbance of oil increases. This formula could be utilized by delivery system (DS) on skin so that this technology can be applied for manufactuing pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

Key Words

liquid crystalline, moisture, Gemini surfactants, multi-layer, gel network structure

유영근 Yung-geun Yoo , 정민석 Min-seok Joung , 이윤희 Youn-hee Lee , 최종완 Jong-wan Choi , 김중회 Joong-hoi Kim , 백기엽 Kee-yoeup Paek

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Abstract

This study reviewed the application of an extract from mountain ginseng adventitious roots which had been grown through tissue culture as a cosmetic ingredient. The mountain ginseng adventitious roots were derived from mountain ginseng callus that was induced from mountain ginseng root whose origin is estimated to date back about one hundred years ago. The adventitious roots were separated from callus and grown in a 20 L bioreactor. In order to proliferate the adventitious roots, they were cultured for 5 weeks in bioreactor. Then the harvested mountain ginseng adventitious roots were dried and extracted. For verifying skin whitening effect of an extract from the tissue-cultured mountain ginseng adventitious roots in vivo, we performed the clinical test of it. The research showed the significant skin whitening effect of a mountain ginseng adventitious roots extract and the statistical analysis showed a significant difference (p < 0.0001) between sample (2% mountain ginseng adventitious roots extract) and placebo. But, some saponins showed below 10% inhibitory effect of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in B-16 melanoma. The extracts of red ginseng and ginseng which were the same concentration as the tissue-cultured mountain ginseng adventitious roots extract's showed little inhibitory effect of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in B-16 melanoma. In DPPH test, Anti-hydroxyl radical activity of 0.5% the tissue-cultured mountain ginseng adventitious roots extract was 86%.

Key Words

mountain ginseng adventitious roots, tissue culture, skin whitening effect, saponins, anti-hydroxyl radical, activity

김보라 Bora Kim , 정성원 Sung Won Jung , 이주동 Joo Dong Lee , 유희창 Hee Chang Ryoo , Wichai Cherdshewasart

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Abstract

Recently, along with the remarkable increase in interest in natural products, the application of phytoestrogens in anti-aging products has become very important. In the focus, we developed Pueraria mirifica (PM), in this in vivo study on skin elasticity and wrinkles, and investigated the anti-aging properties. Thirty healthy women volunteers, between the ages of 30 and 60, applied the cream formula with 4% Pueraria mirifica or placebo, on the face area twice a day for 16 weeks. The evaluation was made by silicon replica analysis, Cutometer SEM 575 and Comeometer followed by statistical treatment using the student's t-test. Results of skin elasticity measurement showed that topical application on the skin increased the total surface of skin elasticity in comparison with placebo group (p<0.05). However, PM cream does not have prominent effect on the depth of wrinkles and skin moisturization. This in vivo study demonstrates that, PM exhibits a significant effect on skin elasticity therefore, is of great interest in anti-aging and firmness skin care products.

Key Words

skin aging, skin elasticity, Pueraria mirifica, clinical study, phytoestrogen

최규호 Gyu Ho Choi , 김수남 Su Nam Kim , 이소희 So Hee Lee , 성대석 Dae Seok Sung , 손의동 Eui Dong Son , 이창훈 Chang Hoon Lee , 이병곤 Byeong Gon Lee , 장이섭 Ih Seop Jang

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Abstract

We screened several materials to stimulate IGF-1 promoter activity using luciferase reporter assay and found that Amomi Semen extract (ASE) among them is the most powerful stimulator. We also studied about the anti-wrinkle effect of ethanolic extract of Amoni Semen in vitro and in vivo. Semi-quantitative RT-PCR showed that the extract elevated the presence level of IGF-1 mRNA. And [³H] proline incorporation and semi-quantitative RT-PCR showed that the extract increased the expression of type-I collagen compared with vehicle in vitro and in vivo, respectively. Significant inhibition of MMP-1 expression was determined by ELISA and Western blot. Finally, topical treatment of the extract on hairless mouse's dorsal skin expanded the volume of collagen and dermal thickness. These results suggest that Amomi Semen may be a good candidate for improving extracellular matrix through the increase of collagen expression and inhibition of MMP-1 expression. Moreover, this study enables us to guess that IGF-1 stimulated by the extract may be involved in the mechanism of anti-wrinkle effect of it.

Key Words

amomi semen, IGF-1, wrinkle, collagen, MMP-1

이범천 Bum-chun Lee , 최태부 Tae-boo Choe , 심관섭 Gwan-sub Sim , 이근수 Geun-soo Lee , 박성민 Sung-min Park , 이천일 Chun-il Lee , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo

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Abstract

L-Carnitine (β-hydroxy-γ-trimethyl-ammoniumbutyric acid) is a small water-soluble molecule important in mammalian fat metabolism. It is essential for the normal oxidation of fatty acids by the mitochondria, and is involved in the trans-esterification and excretion of acyl-CoA esters. In this paper, to investigate the relationship between aging and L-carnitine, we investigated the effects of in vitro matrix-metalloproteinase (MMP) inhibition and activity and expression of UYA-induced MMPs in human skin fibroblasts. Also, we studied to develop as anti-aging cosmetics with L-carnitine. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-1 (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. ELISA (enzyme linked immune sorbent assay), gelatin-substrate zymography, RT-PCR ELISA techniques were used for the effects of L-carnitine on MMP expression, activity, and MMP mRNA expression in UVA irradiated fibroblast (5 J/㎠), respectively. In addition, we performed clinical study with L-carnitine cream. L-carnitine inhibited the activities of MMP-1 in a dose-dependent manner and the IC₅₀ values calculated from semi-log plots were 2.45 mM, and L-carnitine showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 (gelatinase) activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. Also, UVA induced MMP-1, 2 expression was reduced 43%, 53% by treated with L-carnitine at 1.25 mM, and MMP-1 mRNA expression was reduced dose-dependent manner. Therefore L-carnitine was able to significantly inhibit the MMP activity, and regulate MMP expression in protein and mRNA level. The results of clinical study showed that 1.0% L-carnitine treated group reduced wrinkle significantly compared with placebo treated group (P<0.05). All these results suggest that L-carnitine may be useful as new anti-aging cosmetics for protection against UVA induced Mm expression and activity.

Key Words

L-carnitine, MMP, anti-aing, cosmeceuticals, human dermal fibroblast

하병조 Byung-jo Ha , 이윤식 Yoon-sik Lee , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

Novel GHK-conjugated chitosan was prepared by the solid-phase method using N^α-Fmoc amino acids/BOP coupling reagent. For this purpose, the chitosan microbeads which had a mean diameter of 70 um were prepared by the W/O emulsion-phase separation method. The GHK was successfully coupled to the chitosan microbeads by stepwise solid-phase method. The result of amino aid analysis was in good agreement with the theoretical values; Gly_1.02 His_1.13 Lys_0.96. The cell proliferation effect of the GHK-bound chitosan microbeads was measured by MTT assay. We concluded that GHK-bound chitosan microbeads gave higher cell Proliferation effect than chitosan microbeads.

Key Words

CHK-conjugated chitosan, chitosan microbeads, cell proliferation effect, solid-phase method

노호식 Ho Sik Rho , 백흥수 Heung Soo Baek , 김수정 Sujong Kim , 김수남 Sunam Kim , 김덕희 Duck Hee Kim , 장이섭 Ih Seop Chang , 이옥섭 Ok-sub Lee

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Abstract

Several hydroxamic acid derivatives are synthesized to observe retinoidal effect and transactivation potential for RARα/γ is screened. Among the synthesized compounds, N-(4-N-hydroxycarbamoyl )phenyl) [4-(tert-butyl )phenyl] carboxamide (2f) showed the best compatibility for potent RARα/γ. The acidic hydroxy of hydroxamic acid was easily deprotonated to form an enolate. A formed enolate has a similar role like that of all-trans-retinoic acid. This is the first example of the hydroxamic acid derivative with retinoidal activity. The retinoidal activity of 2f was further confirmed by enhancing activity for the expression of retinoid-responsive genes. To evaluate the possibility for anti.-aging agent, effect on the expression of MMP-1 was measured comparing with all-trans-retinoic acid and retinol. At 10 μM treatment, compound 2f inhibited the expression of MMP-1. These results suggest that new hydroxamic acid derivative 2f could be used as a promising anti-aging agent.

Key Words

hydroxamic aid, retinoic aid, receptor, MMP-1, aging

김기호 Ki Ho Kim , 김기수 Ki Soo Kim , 김진국 Jin Guk Kim , 한창성 Chang Sung Han , 김영희 Young Heui Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

Kojic acid is well known for its anti-pigmentation effect with tyrosinase inhibition activity. However, kojic acid is a unstable compound. In order to improve stability, kojic acid derivative, kojic acid 6-O-2',3',4',6'-tetraacetyl-β-D-glucopy-ranoside (KTGP), was synthesized with O-pentaacetyl-β-D-glucose through the regio- and stereo-selective glycosylation of 6-OH group of kojic acid. High yield (80%) was obtained by the use of Lewis acid and organic base in nonpolar solvent. Hydrolysis of KTGP with the aid of sodium methoxide in methanol afforded kojic acid 6-O-β-D-glucopyranoside (KGP), which was confirmed by ¹H-NMR and ¹³C-NMR. KGP is freely soluble in water and soluble in methanol and ethanol. Inhibition activity of KGP for tyrosinase was investigated by measuring the activity of mushroom tyrosinase compared with those of ascorbic acid, kojic acid, and arbutin. The free radical-scavenger activity was determined by the 1,1-diphenyl- 2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. In toxicity assay, KGP was much less toxic than kojic acid and arbutin, Therefore, glycosylation of kojic acid may be useful for the development of stable kojic acid derivatives.

Key Words

kojic acid, kojic acid 6-O-β-Dglucopyranoside, anti-pigmentation, glycosylation, tyrosinase

유박린 Bark-lin Lew , 류지호 Ji-ho Ryou , 이무형 Mu-hyoung Lee

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Abstract

Arbutin is a glycosylated hydroquinone found at high concentration in certain plants capable of surviving extreme and sustained dehydration. It has been reported to have an inhibitory effect of melanogenesis and to be hydrolyzed easily to yield glucose and hydroquinone by β-glucosidase. While hydroquinone also has an anti-melanogenic effect, however, is carefully used as a topical whitening agent because of side effects. The present study was undertaken to examine the inhibitory effect of an whitening agent containing arbutin and β-glucosidase on UV radiation induced pigmentation in human skin. Experimental subjects were UVB-irradiated on the back. UVB-irradiated areas were assigned to three groups: arbutin and β- glucosidase treated group, vehicle control, and no-application control. Arbutin and β-glucosidase treatment inhibited pigmentation by 50.17 percent, compared with the controls (N : 10; P < 0.05). These results suggest that the whitening agent containing arbutin and β-glucosidase may be used as an agent to inhibit melanin formation induced by UV radiation.

Key Words

β-glucosidase, arbutin, antimelanogenic effect, melanogenesis, UV radiation

조춘구 Choon-koo Zhoh , 김인영 In-young Kim , 이희섭 Hee-seob Lee

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Abstract

The nano-ceramide capsulation is a technique that capsulates ceramide III and tocopheryl linoleate at the mono-vesicle to act on the horny layer in skin. In this technique, 0.5~5.0 wt% of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.01~2.00 wt% of lysolecithin are used as the membrane-strengthen agents of the mono-vesicle and 5.0~10.0 wt% of propylene glycol and 5.0~10.0 wt% of ethyl alcohol are used as solvents. Active ingredients such ceramide III and tocopheryl linoleate are utilized to enhance the moisturizing efficacy and treat atopy skin. These materials do not contain synthetic emulsifiers. The optimal conditions or nano-ceramide capsulation are such that particles pass Microfludizdizer 3 times at 1,000 bar and 60~70℃ and pH of nano capsules is 5.8±0.5. The average size of particles is 63.1±7.34 nm showing lucid state like water by the laser light scattering. A zeta potential value is -55.1±0.84 mV. Through clinical tests, the moisturizing effect (in-vivo, n=8, p-value<0.05) showed 21.15% of improvement comparison to comparison-samples and 36.31% of improvement compared to the state before treatment. Moreover, the effectiveness of atopy skin showed positive reaction from 10 volunteers.

Key Words

nano, capsule, ceramide, atopy, emulsion

김주덕 Ju-duck Kim

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Abstract

Cosmeceuticals products we not the products simply for moisturizing and protecting skin but the ones for encouraging to make improvements on wrinkles and helping to whiten, tan, and protect skin against ultraviolet light. In a broader sense, they refer to products with aiming to maintain healthy condition of skin such that skin troubles could be improved or aging of skin could be delayed. However, cosmeceuticals should not have any side effects because they are applied to the whole body for a long period of time differing from medical products which are used on specific areas for a short time. The number of such cosmeceuticals has increased from 500 in 2001 to 2300 in 2003. In order to develop and broaden the scope of cosmeceuticals, the concept of cosmetics needs to be changed from caring skin to delaying aging of the skin and reviving cells. For this purpose, high-valued materials should be developed through basic researches related to the biological function of skin, in vivo experiment and reaction of skin in response to various stimuli using biotechnologies and bioengineering methods. At the same time, it should be proceeded to develop new nano materials for overcoming skin barriers and transfer matericals for helping to absorb effective substances and maintaining stability.

Key Words

cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, active ingredients