이영진 Young-jin Lee , 백승재 Seung Jae Baik , 이혜원 Hye Won Lee , 남윤성 Yoon Sung Nam , 김수정 Su Jung Kim , 한상훈 Sang Hoon Han , 강학희 Hak Hee Kang

DOI:

Abstract

This study was pursued to measure skin feeling of cosmetics by mechanical methods. For this attempt, skin feeling of cosmetics such as spreading properties, tackiness, and residual greasy feeling after skin application was explored with the amount and kinds of cosmetic compositions-emulsifiers, waxes, thickeners, polyols, and oils. Furthermore, the relationship between these cosmetic compositions and viscometry of cosmetic products was studied. In case of emulsifiers, waxes, and thickeners, they showed strong correlation with both skin feeling and the value of phase angle, the property of viscometry, respectively, while polyols and oils were observed a special tendency neither skin feeling nor the property of viscometry. It leads to the conclusion that skin feeling may be corresponded to not values of a mechanical measure completely but a function of several properties. We expect that a better correlation can be discovered with additionally measured properties such as friction, volatility, etc.

Key Words

skin feeling, correlation, rheology

백성재 Seung Jae Baik , 이영진 Young-jin Lee , 남윤성 Yoon Sung Nam , 김진한 Chin Han Kim , 김한곤 Han Kon Kim , 강학희 Hak Hee Kang

DOI:

Abstract

This study aims at measuring electrical and rheological properties of cosmetic emulsions on the skin under shear flow. The effects of volume ratio and surfactants on structural changes of emulsions were examined by determining the changes of electrical resistance, viscosity, and morphology. As the ratio of the internal phase increased, the phase inversion occurred more quickly. The viscosity change was found to increase with increasing of the variation of electrical resistance of the emulsions. This phenomenon may be caused by decreased resistant force against the shear flow because of the breakdown of the internal phase. Surfactants also played a key role on phase transition of emulsions. It is likely that polymeric surfactants anchoring on the emulsion surface reinforced the interfacial mechanical strength. As the concentration of surfactants increased, the phase transition occurred more slowly. It has been demonstrated that the phase changes of emulsions under shear flow can be monitored on the real-time basis by using a JELLI^TM chip system, a combination of conductiometry and rheometry. Our approach is expected to a useful experimental tool for predicting the phase transition of the cosmetic products during skin application.

Key Words

emulsion, phase transition, rheology

강기춘 Ki-choon Kang , 이청희 Chung-hee Lee , 서정민 Jeong-min Seo , 왕수환 Su-hwan Wang , 이천일 Chun-il Lee , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo

DOI:

Abstract

In cosmetics, the saturated lecithin, one of the main surfactants to prepare liposome has been used for its stability but it has been substituting with unsaturated lecithin which has excellent skin affinity and penetration property. So we studied to prepare nano-liposome that size of particles were below than 50 nm by unsaturated lecithin. It was important that many factors including solvent such as propylene glycol, pH balance, homogenizing pressure, various cosurfactants and stabilizers to make stable nano-liposome. In our experimental conditions, cosurfactants with stearate class as lipophilic part were more suitable than others for our purpose. But in liposome by saturated lecithin, cosurfactants had negative effect and appropriate amount of oil should be used to be stable. These results indicated that unsaturated lecithin were more suitable than saturated lecithin to prepare nano-liposome.

Key Words

unsaturated lecithin, phosphatidylcholine, nano-liposome, stabilizing agent, long term stability

김인영 In-young Kim , 이주동 Joo-dong Lee , 유희창 Hee-chang Ryoo , 조춘구 Choon-koo Zhoh

DOI:

Abstract

This study described about method that forms liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in O/W emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following, to form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used 4.0 wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by 4.0 wt% of HL as a booster. Moisturizers contained 2 wt% of glycerin and 3.0 wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used 3.0 wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0 wt% of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), 3.0 wt% of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), 3.0 wt% of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions (pH=4.0~11.0). Considering safety of skin, pH was the most suitable 6.0±1.0 ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in 32 dyne/cm². Particle of LCG is forming size of 1~20 μm range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in 1~6 μm range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi -layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased 36.6%. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.

Key Words

liquid crystal, hydrogenated lecithin, moisture, o/w emulsion, multi-layer

민석기 Seok Kee Min , 진용훈 Yong Hoon Jin , 박우정 Woo Jung Park , 엄상용 Sang Yong Eom , 김종헌 Jong Heon Kim

DOI:

Abstract

In the human skin, vitamin C (L -ascorbic acid) that is well known as the activated materials has effects that is skin anti-aging and wrinkle repair by giving impetus to collagen biosynthesis and anti-oxidation, and that is the sun screen, a wound recovering, inhibition melanogenesis and so on. In spite of its effects, vitamin C has the defects of the skin stimulation and easily oxidized instability by water, air, heat and light. For solving their matters, many investigation is advanced and its results are synthesized the various vitamin C derivatives. And yet they have not solved the unstable property of vitamin C and were still insufficient for the comparing with the effect of the pure vitamin C itself. In this study, in order to prepare vitamin C derivative of being improved the stability and to apply vitamin C effect in the skin, we prepared new vitamin C derivative, phytosphingosine ascorbate, by using phytosphingosine, one of sphingolipids, which have a distinguished skin affinity. Phytosphingosine ascorbate can be prepared as the ionic bond between amine group (-NH₂) of phytosphingosine and hydroxy group (-OH) of vitamin C by way of the relatively simple reaction. So the structure and properties of the synthesized phytosphingosine ascorbate was confirmed the use of elemental analysis (C 58.3 : H 9.3 : N 2.8 : O 29.5), MALDI TOF-MS (Mw=492.58), Ultraviolet spectra (268.5 nm), 1H NMR, FT-IR spectra, thermal analysis (m.p=l54°C), HPLC and so on. And we could confirm the anti-bacterial and anti-oxidation effects. Based on these results, we could confirm to prepare a new material that was expected of both effects of vitamin C and phytosphingosine and that is improved properties of vitamin C.

Key Words

vitamin C derivative, phytosphingosine ascorbate, anti-oxidation, anti-bacterial activity

이진화 Jin-hwa Lee , 한주열 Ju-yeol Han , 이상길 Sang-gil Lee , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo , 이동규 Dong-kyu Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Nano sized ZnO particle as 20~30 nm applies for material, pigments, rubber additives, gas sensors, varistors, fluorescent substance as well as new material such as photo-catalyst, sensitizer, fluorescent material. ZnO with a particle size in the range 20~30 nm has provided to be an excellent UV blocking material in the cosmetics industry, which can be used in sunscreen product to enhance the sun protection factor and natural makeup effect. But pure ZnO particles application limits for getting worse wearing feeling. We make high-functional inorganic-composite that coated with nano-ZnO on the plate-type particle such as sericite, boron nitride and bismuthoxychloride. In this experiment, we synthesized composite powder using hydrothermal precipitation method. The starting material was ZnCl₂ Precipitation materials were used hexamethylenetetramine (HMT) and urea. We make an experiment with changing as synthesis factors that are concentrations of starting material, precipitation materials, nuclear formation material, reaction time, and reaction temperature. We analyzed composite powder's shape, crystallization and UV-blocking ability with FE-SEM, XRD, FT-IR, TGA-DTA, In vitro SPF test. The user test was conducted by product's formulator. In the results of this study, nanometer sized ZnO was coated regardless of the type of plate-powder at fixed condition range. When the coated plate-powders were applied in pressed powder product, the glaze of powder itself decreased, but natural make-up effect, spreadability, and adhesionability were increased.

Key Words

zinc oxide, UV blocking, cosmetics, hexamethylenetetramine, coating

박병규 Byung Gyu Park , 김종현 Jong Heon Kim , 임진희 Jin Hee Im , 이경철 Kyoung Chul Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Preparations of mesoporous materials using various templates and their applicability have been intensively investigated for many years. We studied on synthesizing mesoporous TiO₂ with pores in which sensitive compounds having weak physico-chemical properties such as thermal or UV irradiation and low solubility in solvent are trapped. Prior to trapping OMC in the pores of mesoporous titania, OMC was nano-emulsified in O/W system using Lecithin. Thereafter the OMC was trapped in the pores of mesoporous titania using sol-gel method. Main focus of this work is to prepare OMC-trapped mesoporous titania and to trace the stability and solubility of nano-emulsified OMC in the pores of mesoporous titania, and compared with that of mesoporous silica. OMC-trapped mesoporous Inorganic-Organic hybrid titania showed higher factors in sun protecting and a skin penetration phenomenon was reduced.

Key Words

octyl methoxy cinnamate, inorganic-organic nano-hybrid, nano-sized TiO₂, microfluidization

장혜인 Hye-in Jang , 이경철 Kyung-chul Lee , 류희창 Hee-chang Ryoo

DOI:

Abstract

Carbon black have not been used as pigment material in cosmetic because of very low density and dispersity, but carbon black have applicable character as black pigment because of non-toxic, stable physico-chemical property, and black colority. In this study, mesoporous silica samples were synthesized by sol-gel reaction using surfactants-template method; TEOS (tetraethoxysilane) - a) PEO/lecithin, b) PEO/polyethylene glycol, c) lecithin/polyethylene glycol in ethanol/water solution. Synthesized organic-inorganic hybrid - silica were heat-treated in N2 condition at 500℃. Mesoporous silica with black carbon in pore have the effective density and show the good dispersity in both hydrophilic and hydrophobic solvent. Properties of the samples were measured; specific surface area (750 ㎡/g) and pore size (4~6 nm) using BET, pore structure (cylindrical type) using XRD, morphology (spherical powder with 0.1~0.5 ㎛ partical size) of the samples using SEM. Carbon-silica black color applied to mascara, it shows a dark black colority and good dispersity as compared with the general black color titania pigment. Moreover, it is possible to control the density of black color pigment because it is possible to control pore volume and particle size of mesoporous silica properly. It show the good volume effects in mascara. That is why possible to apply all kinds of cosmetic products.

Key Words

new matrials, organic/inorganic hybrid silica, carbon-silica pigment, mesoporous silica, SEM

최경호 Kyung-ho Choi , 고성용 Seung-yong Ko , 강학희 Hak-hee Kang , 이옥섭 Ok-sub Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Sensor and optical properties have become critical features in powder foundation. The flaky barium sulfate powder shows good smooth texture, adhesion and natural looking characteristics. However, it has limitations abilities in UV shielding, hiding and blooming effect. Thus we adopt TiO₂ that has excellent hiding power and blooming effect as well as UV shielding ability, but TiO₂ has still intrinsic problems in dispersion and texture. To overcome this disadvantages, the barium sulfate/TiO₂/dimethicone composite powder was prepared. The flaky barium sulfate powder was coated with TiO₂ in nanoscale and followed by coated with dimethicone. When this surface-modified powder was applied for make-up cosmetics, especially in powder foundation, the powder gave powder foundation more good characteristics than the original flaky barium sulfate, TiO₂ powder, dimethicone in abovementioned optical and sensory properties. To characterize the distinctive features of this surface-modified powder, we measured its characteristics with UV in vitro tester, hiding powder test method, goniophotometer, consumer panel test and so on.

Key Words

composite, barium sulfate, TiO₂

최정식 Jung Sik Choi , 지홍근 Hong Geun Ji , 권희숙 Hee Suk Kwon , 조성락 Sung Rack Cho , 조병기 Byoung Kee Jo

DOI:

Abstract

In these several years, as many people have been attracted by the functional cosmetics, there are a lot of study to enhance the stability of active ingredients for light, heat, oxygen, etc. in the academic and industrial field. Especially, catechin is well known as strong anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and reducing agent for oxidative stress but it is very unstable for light, heat, oxygen. etc. In this study, the stability and skin penetration of catechin are improved by 3-dimensional method. As 1-dimension, porous silica is prepared using sol-gel method, and then catechin is adsorbed in pores of silica. As 2-dimension, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) are obtained using non-phospholipid vesicles. Finally 3-dimension is completion through lamellar phase self-organization that combines SLN catechin with skin lipid matrix. We used laser light scattering system, cyro-SEM, chromameter, HPLC and image analyzer to analyze our 3-dimentional systems. According to chromameter date, the color stability of 3-dimensional catechin is enhanced by 5~10 times compared with general liposome systems. We also confirmed through HPLC analysis that 3-dimensional catechin is more long lasting. The effect of skin penetration and wrinkle reduction are improved, too.

Key Words

catechin (green tea: EGCG), porous silica, SLN (solid lipid nano-particle), SLM (skin lipid matrix), 3-dimensional liposomes

지홍근 Hong Geun Ji , 김주덕 Ju Duck Kim , 김정동 Jeong Dong Kim , 최정식 Jung Sik Choi

DOI:

Abstract

Glycyrrhiza uralensis (licorice root) is very useful medicinal herb because of strong anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle effect. Therefore, it is widely used in functional cosmetics. However, it is insoluble and easily decomposed by light, heat, oxygen, etc. In this study, we first prepared NanoSolve-Licorice (30~50 nm) using Glycyrrhiza uralensis and propylene glycol/ hydrogenated lecithin/caprylic/capric triglyceride/glycerin/water system with microfluidizer. And then, NanoSolve-Licorice and porous PMMA are dispersed in ethanol. Finally, we could get a stabilized system with high-pressure homogenizer (1,000 Bar, 3 passes). According to HPLC measurement for glabridin content, our system is more stable compared with general liposome ones. Capsulated licorice has an enhanced anti-inflammatory effect on account of excellent skin penetration. We also evaluated our final product through image analyzer, particle size analyzer, FF-TEM and chromameter.

Key Words

Glycyrrhiza uralensis (licorice root), liposome, nano-emulsion, microfluidizer, PMMA (polymethylmethacrylate)

김인영 In-young Kim , 정성원 Sung-won Jung , 유희창 Hee-chang Ryoo , 조춘구 Choon-koo Zhoh

DOI:

Abstract

Yew (Taxus cuspidata Sieb.) chose that grow as medicine, food, decorative plant in Korea's Kyong-Gi province surroundings. Extracts of yew extracted leaf of 250 g and stems of 300 g with 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG), propylene glycol (PG) and water. As results, external appearance of leaf extract of yew was slightly brown clear extract. The pH was 5.3±0.5, and specific gravity was 1.012±0.05, and refractive index was 1.375±0.05. Also, appearance of stem's extract was slightly brown clear extract, and the pH was 5.4±0.5, and specific gravity was 1.016±0.05, and refractive index was 1.358±0.05. Oil of yew separated from seeds, and extracted polysaccharide high purity from fruits. As a result, specific gravity of oil was 0.987, and obtained 40.0% of yield. Total polyphenols amount of yew extract is detected 0.563% in leaves, 0.325% in stems, whereas total tannins amount contained 0.054% and 0.037% each in leaves and stems. As effect in cosmetics, the anti-oxidative effect by DPPH method is 75.0% in leaves, and stems was 64.0%. Collagen synthesis rate was shown high activity by 54.16% in stem's extract, 33.18% in leaves' extract. Also, PPE-inhibitory activities were 13.7% and 23.5% each in leaves and stems. Anti-inflammatory effect of yew seed oil displayed superior effect of 41% than control. Polysaccharide's molecular weight that is gotten from fruits was 5x10⁴-3x10⁵ dalton, and got 20.0±5% of yield.

Key Words

Cosmetic ingredient, Yew, polyphenols, tannins, polysaccharide

김성우 Sung-woo Kim , 정지헌 Ji-hean Jeong , 조병기 Byoung-kee Jo

DOI:

Abstract

The root of Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer has been used as a traditional anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent in the Orient. However, it is still unknown which component of ginseng is effective at suppressing wrinkle formation. Recently at least twenty ginsenosides regarded as the main active ingredients of ginseng have been isolated. Among them, we examined the effect of ginsenoside Rg3 on dermal ECM metabolism to elucidate the mechanism of anti-wrinkle by ginseng. In our study, to investigate the anti-wrinkle effect of the ginsenoside Rg3, ECM component and growth factor in dennis were evaluated by ELISA assay. Ginsenoside Rg3 was found to stimulate type I procollagen and fibronectin (FN) biosynthesis in a dose-dependent manner in normal human fibroblast culture (p < 0.05, n =3), and dose-dependently enhance TGF-β1 level (p < 0.05, n =3). In RT-PCR analysis mRNA level of c-Jun, a member of AP-1 transcription factor, was reduced by ginsenoside Rg3 in normal human fibroblast culture. These results indicate that ginsenoside Rg3 stimulates type I collagen and FN synthesis through the changes of TGF-β1 and AP-1 expression in fibroblasts.

Key Words

ginsenoside Rg3, anti-wrinkle, extracellular matrix, TGF-β1

김진화 Jin-hwa Kim , 박성민 Sung-min Park , 심관섭 Gwan-sub Sim , 이범천 Bum-chun Lee , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo

DOI:

Abstract

Chronic exposure to solar radiation, particularly ultraviolet (UV) light, causes a variety of adverse reactions on human skin, such as sunburn, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV exposure or other environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. And, repeated-UV irradiation activated the expression of the matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) and induced skin irritation. Therefore, the development of effective and safe photoprotectants that can reduce and improve the skin damage has been required. The purpose of this study was to investigate the photo-protective effect of several chinese medical plants (Juniperus chinensis) on the UV -induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-1 (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UVA induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. Expression of prostaglandin E₂ (PGE₂) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay (EIA) using PGE₂ monoclonal antibody. In the human skin we tested anti-irritation effect on the SLS-induced damage skin after appling the extract containing emulsion. We found that Juniperus chinensis extract had potent radical scavenging effect by 98% at 100 ㎍/mL. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97% at 100 ㎍/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79% at 25 ㎍/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. In the test of proinflammatory cytokines of human keratinocytes Juniperus chinensis extract decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30%. The amount of PGE₂ by HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly increased at the doses of above 10 mJ/㎠ of UVB (p < 0.05). At the concentrations of 3.2~25 ㎍/mL of this extract, the production of PGE₂ by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 h after 10mJ/㎠ UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p < 0.05). In SLS-induced skin irritation model in vivo, we found to reduce skin erythema and improve barrier recovery after appling Juniperus chinensis extract containing emulsion when compared to irritated non-treated and placebo-treated skin. Our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis extract can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions and applied as anti-aging and anti-irritation cosmetics.

Key Words

Juniperus chinensis, skin cell protection, anti-inflammation, prostaglandin E₂, anti-oxidation

김진후 Jin-hui Kim , 이경은 Kyung-eun Lee , 김진화 Jin-hwa Kim , 조영호 Young-ho Cho , 박성민 Sung-min Park , 이정재 Jeong-jae Lee , 이범천 Bum-chun Lee , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo

DOI:

Abstract

In order to develop new anti-photoaging agents from marine natural products, Zostera marina L. was selected for its antioxidative activity and inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression. Three compounds (compounds 1, 2, and 3) were isolated from the extract, and they were identified as apigenin-7-O-β-D-glucoside (1), chrysoeriol (2), and luteolin (3). These compounds have SC₅₀ values of 0.18 mM, 0.68 mM, and 0.01 mM against l,l-dipheny1-2-picrylhydrazyl radical and 0.04 mM, 0.03 mM, and 0.01 mM against the superoxide radical in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. Compound 3 suppressed the expression of MMP-1 by up to 44% at 35.0 μM and inhibited the production of interleukin 6, which is known as a cytokine that induces MMP-1 expression. In addition, the wrinkle improvement effect of the formulation with Z. marina extract was measured. As a result, remarkable reduction was found in the fine wrinkle and skin roughness after application of the cream with 3.0% this extract for 8 weeks. In conclusion, the isolated compounds from Z. marina extract were good antioxidant and suppressor of MMP-1 expression and the formulation with the extract diminished the skin wrinkle. Therefore, the extract can be used as a new anti-aging agent for application in cosmetic.

Key Words

ani-aging, antioxidant, matrix metalloproteinase-1, Zostera marina L., luteolin

이동환 Dong-hwan Lee , 김진화 Jin-hwa Kim , 배준태 Jun-tae Bae , 박성민 Sung-min Park , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo , 채태부 Tae-boo Choe , 이범천 Bum-chun Lee

DOI:

Abstract

To develop novel anti-aging peptides from the germinated black rice, we treated with bromelain, papain and Pronase E. And we investigated the effects of the germinated black rice peptide (GBRP) as anti-aging cosmetic ingredients, and compared with the non-germinated black rice protein (NBRP). We investigated the effects on in vitro inhibition of matrix-metalloprotease (MMP), proliferation of human skin fibroblasts, stimulation of collagen synthesis and expression of UVA-induced MMPs in human skin fibroblasts, UVA induced MMP-1 expression and collagen contents in human skin fibroblasts were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). As a result, the molecular weight distributions of GBRP and NBRP were determined by gel permeation chromatography to be approximately 900 and 10,000 daltons. GBRP increased skin cell proliferation about 40% and reduced UVA-induced MMP-1 expression about 50%. Also the collagen protein level of cells, which were cultured with GBRP, was increased about 25%. These results suggest that the geminated plant seed peptides can be novel anti-aging ingredients for cosmetics.

Key Words

germination, rice, protease, peptides, hydrolysates

안수미 Soo Mi Ahn , 김지현 Ji Hyun Kim , 이병곤 Byeong Gon Lee , 이수환 Soo Hwan Lee , 장이섭 Ih Seoup Chang

DOI:

Abstract

UV radiation exerts various influences in the skin, including photoaging and inflammation (1). The MMPs (Matrix metalloproteinases), which are induced by UV irradiation, can degrade matrix proteins, and these results in a collagen deficiency in photodamaged skin that leads to skin wrinkling. It has been known that the production of PGE₂ stimulates MMPs expression, and inhibits procollagen (2). Thus, it is possible that the induction of MMPs and the inhibition of matrix protein synthesis by UV -induced PGE₂ may play some role in UV-induced collagen deficiency in photoaged skin. Fructose-1,6-diphosphate (FDP), a glycolytic metabolite, is reported to have cytoprotective effects against ischemia and postischemic reperfusion injury of brain and heart, presumably by augmenting anaerobic carbohydrate metabolism (3). And also, FDP significantly prevent skin aging by decreasing facial winkle compared with vehicle alone after 6 months of use. We studied the mechanism of anti-aging effect of FDP on UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocyte model. FDP has protective role in UVB injured keratinocyte by attenuating prostaglandin E₂ (PGE₂) production and COX-2 expression. And FDP also suppressed UVB-induced MMP-2 expression. Further, to delineate the inhibition of UVB-induced COX-2 and MMPs expression with cell signaling pathways, treatment of FDP to HaCaT keratinocytes resulted in marked inhibition of UVB-induced phosphorylation of ERK1/2, JNK. It also prevents UV induced NFB translocation, which are activated by cellular inflammatory signal. Our results indicate that FDP has protecting effects in UV-injured skin aging by decreasing UVB-induced COX-2 and MMPs expression, which are possibly through blocking UVB-induced signal cascades.

Key Words

FDP, UV irradiation, aging, COX-2

조시영 Si Young Cho , 이은희 Eun Hee Lee , 염명훈 Myeong Hoon Yeom , 장이섭 Ih-seop Chang , 이태룡 Tae Ryong Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Ginsenosides and green tea extracts show a variety of biomedical efficacies such as anti-aging, anti-oxidation and anti-tumor-promotion effects. (-)-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) has been reported to inhibit the UVB-induced apoptosis by increasing the Bcl-2-to-Bax ratio. We have previously shown that ginsenoside F1 protects human HaCaT cells from ultraviolet-B (UVB)-induced apoptosis by maintaining constant levels of Bcl-2 and Brn-3a. Here, we investigate the combined effect of ginsenoside F1 and EGCG on the protection of human HaCaT keratinocyte against UVB-induced apoptosis. When treated individually, although 5 μM ginsenoside F1 and 50 μM EGCG protected cells from UVB-induced apoptosis, 2 μM ginsenoside F1 or 10 μM EGCG treatment showed very little protection effect. However, cotreatement of 2 μM ginsenoside F1 and 10 μM EGCG successfully protected HaCaT cells from UVB-induced cell death. As expected, combining ginsenoside F1 and EGCG efficiently prevented UVB-induced decrease of Bcl-2 and Brn-3a expression. In addition, cotreatment with ginsenoside F1 and EGCG prevented the dephosphorylation of Rb, whereas individual treatment with ginsenoside F1 or EGCG failed to prevent the dephosphorylation of Rb even at high concentrations.

Key Words

ginsenoside F1, Bcl-2, EGCG, Rb, Brn-3a

임석원 Suk Won Lim , 정성원 Sung Won Jung , 안성구 Sung Ku Ahn , 김보라 Bora Kim , 김인영 In Young Kim , 류희창 Hee Chang Ryoo , 이성헌 Seung Hun Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8~12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01~0.1 mg/mL UA or 0.1~1 mg/mL ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was measured. The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1 mg/mL UA and 0.5 mg/mL ONA) at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p<0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2 mg/mL per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p< 0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA=UA >vehicle). LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA>ONA>vehicle). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either ONA (10 μM) or UA (10 μM) for 24 h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.

Key Words

ursolic acid, oleanolic acid, epidermal permeability barrier, dermal function, keratinocyte terminal differentiation

김인영 In-young Kim , 조춘구 Choon-koo Zhoh , 유희창 Hee Chang Ryoo

DOI:

Abstract

This study described about a liquid crystalline technology that is used in cosmetics industry. Various intermediate phases may exist between solid and liquid. At high surfactant concentration, several liquid crystalline phases can be made to have formed. Although molecular arrangement with crystallization is not regular, it is known that more relative regular state is liquid crystalline or meso-phase than liquid phase. Usually, it described in detail about manufacturing method that explained about a kind of liquid crystalline technology in cosmetics, a new liquid crystalline technology, and makes liquid crystalline. Specialty, it introduced about kind of special an emulsifier to form liquid crystalline. There were hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, DEA-cetyl phosphate, Gemini-surfactant in representative raw material to form liquid crystalline. Liquid crystalline extent that used polarization microscope to observe formation, and appears best from 400 times, 600 times, 1,000 times well appeared. Also, droplet particle size that liquid crystal is made best 1.0~10.0 μm be. General emulsion more than superior result that measures the skin moisturizing effect to take advantage of liquid crystalline technology of vitamin was seen. As presence at a clinical result, wave and general emulsion more than superior result (more than 20%) that measures skin moisturizing effect about liquid crystalline of vitamin B₅ were seen (ANOMA t-test, p<0.05).

Key Words

liquid crystalline, lecithin, emulsion, moisturizing effect