김영찬 Young Chan Kim , 황순욱 Soon Wook Hwang , 김대중 Dae Joong Kim

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Abstract

Although the cosmetic market continuously develops in korea, the foreign product occupies more and more its market3hare in korea. For the future of our industry, institutional support for the ‘functional cosmetics’ (Cosmeceuticals) development should be secured and export infrastructure should be more solid. This paper examines recent trend in cosmetics market (home and foreign) and identifies barriers for the development of cosmetic market. In conclusion, we present several policy strategies for the development of its market.

Key Words

cosmetic, development, strategy, export

이범천 Bum-chun Lee , 이정재 Jeong-jae Lee , 박성민 Sung-min Park , 김철배 Chul-bae Kim , 심관섭 Gwan-sub Sim , 김진화 Jin-hwa Kim , 이근수 Geun-soo Lee , 이천일 Chun-il Lee , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo

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Abstract

As a novel anti-wrinkle agent, 3,9-diferuloyl-6-oxopterocarpen (Tensolin-F^®) has been synthesized and its anti-aging effects have been investigated. In the present study, to investigate the relationship between aging and Tensolin-F^®, we examined its effect on scavenging activities of radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS), in vitro inhibition activity of matrix-metalloproteinase (MMP) and expression of UVA-induced MMPs in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Tensolin-F^® was found to show activities of scavenging radicals and ROS with the IC₅₀ values of 0.2 mM and 0.95 mM against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and superoxide radicals, respectively, in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system. Fluorometric assays for the proteolytic activities of MMP-l (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. Tensolin-F^® inhibited the activities of MMP-l in a dose-dependent manner and the IC₅₀ values calculated from semi-log plots were 0.025 mM. Also, UVA induced MMP-1 expression was reduced 85％ by treatment with Tensolin-F^® at 0.8 uM, which was reduced dose-dependent manner. The results of clinical study showed that 4.8 mM Tensolin-F^® treated group reduced wrinkle significantly compared with placebo treated group (P<0.05). Taken together, these result suggest that Tensolin-F^® act as an anti-wrinkle agent by taking effects to antioxidation and reducing UVA-induced MMP-l production.-l production.

Key Words

3,9-diferuloyl-6-oxopteromrpen, synthesis, antioxidant, anti-aging cosmetics

김미진 Mi Jin Kim , 김자영 Ja Young Kim , 최상원 Sang-won Choi , 홍진태 Jin Tae Hong , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

Anti-wrinkle Effect of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) seed extract (CTSE) was evaluated by determination of the anti-oxidation, collagen synthesis and elastase inhibition in normal human fibroblast. CTSE showed anti-oxidation and collagen synthesis ability as much as or greater than other phytoestrogenic compounds such as genistein or resveratrol. Consistent with collagen synthesis promotion, CTSE also showed inhibitory effect on elastase activity. In the human skin irritation test, 0.2％ CTSE did not show any adverse effect. These results demonstrate that CTSE can be useful as an anti-wrinkle cosmetic ingredient.

Key Words

anti-wrinkle effect, safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) seed extract, anti-oxidation, collagen synthesis, elastase inhibition

안기웅 Gi Woong Ahn , 강태원 Tae Won Kang , 정지헌 Ji Hean Jeong , 조병기 Byoung Kee Jo

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Abstract

The aim of this study is to assess the anti-irritation activities of mung bean (Phaseolus aureus) extract against various irritants used in cosmetics. For its antidotal activity, mung bean has been used as a medicinal or cosmetic material since ancient times. However, there have been few reports describing the biological activities of these beans and no comprehensive surveys of the constituents. We obtained an ethanolic extract of mung bean and isolated the major constituents, such as vitexin and isovitexin. And we previously reported that the mung bean extract containing vitexin and isovitexin had excellent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. To investigate the mechanisms of anti-inflammatory activity of mung bean extract, we examined the inhibitory effects on histamine release from rat peritoneal mast cells and lipoxygenase activity. Mung bean extract inhibited histamine release in a concentration dependent manner but showed no inhibitory activity in the 5-lipoxygenase assay. And, clinical studies were conducted to evaluate the anti-irritation effects of mung bean extract against various irritants used in cosmetics such as lactic acid, retinol, and preservatives. When 2.0％ of mung bean extract was applied to cosmetic formulae containing each of irritants, it revealed considerable anti-irritation efficacy. Our results of the human patch test with 20 volunteers showed that this extract reduced skin irritations caused by 5.0％ lactic acid, 4000 IU retinol, and 1.0％ preservative mixture by about 60％, 30％, and 50％ respectively. The stinging potential test for assessing subjective irritation also showed that the extract reduced the unpleasant sensations by about 50∼30％. Finally, we performed a double-blind usage test with 30 subjects to compare formulae containing mung bean extract with placebo. From the results of questionnaires for 4 weeks of use, we confirmed the excellent anti-irritation effect of mung bean extract. Conclusively, we could discover new material that had anti-irritation effects and apply this mung bean extract to the final cosmetic products successfully.

Key Words

mung bean (Phaseolus aureus) extract, anti-irritation, clinical studies, cosmetics

박주영 Ju Young Park , 최현정 Hyun-jung Choi , 심종원 Jong Won Shim , 안수미 Soo Mi Ahn , 김준오 Junoh Kim , 장이섭 Ih-seop Chang

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Abstract

Inhibition of the early N-glycosylation process in the endoplasmic reticulum prevents the activation of tyrosinase, a key enzyme for melanin biosynthesis. This work aims at evaluating the increased activity of N-glycosylation inhibitors in vitro b, employing a nano-sized pH-sensitive liposome as a delivery carrier. Melexsome, a pH-sensitive nano carrier loaded with glycosylation inhibitos, was prepared by the hydration method with phospholipids and cholresterol-based amphiphiles. Inhibitory effects of Melexsome on the N-glycosylation process were evaluated by EndoH ＆ PNGaseF digestion and the western blotting. Melanin synthesis was also monitored after treatment with Melexsome Interestingly, Melexsome effectively increased the efficacy of N-glycosylation inhibitors. Melexsome was also much more efficiently translocated into the cytoplasm as observed in CLSM. These results demonstrated that the amphiphilic lipid-based pH-sensitive nano-carriers could be, used as an efficient delivery system for N-glycosylation inhibitor to enhance the effects of skin whitening cosmetics.

Key Words

melanin synthesis, N-glycosylation inhibitor, pH-sensitive liposome, pigment-lightening

김경태 Kyoung Tae Kim , 김진국 Jin Guk Kim , 박선희 Sun Hee Park , 이정하 Jeong Ha Lee , 이수희 Soo Hee Lee , 김기호 Ki Ho Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

Melanin pigmentation in human skin is a major defense mechanism against ultraviolet light of the sun, but abnormal pigmentation such as freckles, liver spot could be a serious aesthetic problem. Nearly all studies are mainly concentrated on searching for the materials that have inhibitory activities on tyrosinase. In this work, to isolate phenolic compounds from Gastrodia elata, we purified the extract through solvent fractionation, column chromatography, and recrystallization. They were identified as 4-hydroxybenzyl alcohol 1, bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)methane 2, gastrodin (4-β-D-glucopyranosyloxybenzyl alcohol) 3 on the base of spectroscopic evidences. In order to investigate their depigmentation effect, inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase and inhibitory activity of melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells were evaluated in vitro. We have found that 4-hydroxybenzyl alcohol 1 and gastrodin (4-β-D-glucopyranosyloxybenzyl alcohol) 3 have no tyrosinase inhibitory activity, but inhibit the melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells. Tyrosinase inhibitory activities of bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)methane 2 (IC₅₀ = 400 ㎍/mL) and butanol fraction (IC₅₀ = 46 ㎍/mL) were lower/higher than that of arbutin (IC₅₀ = 114 ㎍/mL), but inhibitory activities of melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells were much higher than that of arbutin. Especially, tyrosinase inhibitory activities of isolated phenolic fraction (IC₅₀ = 2.37 ㎍/mL) from butanol fraction was very higher than that of arbutin (IC₅₀ = 114 ㎍/mL). Therefore, these results suggest that isolated phenolic compounds from Gastrodia elata have inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase and inhibitory activity of melanin synthesis in 816 melanoma cells in vitro.

Key Words

Gastrodia elata, melanin pigmentation, anti-melanogenesis, phenolic compound

김창수 Changsu Kim , 정재형 Jae-hyung Jung , 김남경 Nam-kyung Kim , 한상화 Sanghwa Han , 최신욱 Shin Wook Choi

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Abstract

Ozone(O ₃), one of best-known toxic air pollutant, act as a strong oxidant. It is possible that skins exposed to the air can be easily damaged by such oxidative air pollutants. Therefore, in the present study, anti-oxidative effects of natural product. on O ₂ㆍ and ㆍOH were investigated by EPR. Ozone caused protein damage and lipid oxidation, in HaCaT and B16F10 leading ultimately to programmed cell death. It also reduced the level of antioxidant molecules including ascorbic acid and tocopherol in stratum comeum. However, antioxidants originated from natural products could protect skin from these products could protect skin from these oxidative damages. We concluded that eight natural extracts including Rosa davurica, Ligularia sibrica, Green tea acted as strong antioxidants against ozone.

Key Words

ozone, free radical, antioxidants, skin damage, plant extracts

이은주 Eun-ju Lee , 강윤석 Yun Seong Kang , 윤명석 Moung Seok Yoon , 랑문정 Moon Jeong Rang

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Abstract

In this study, we describe the application of electron microscopes that incorporate freeze treatments or cryo systems to achieve the characterization of the microstuctures of emulsions. We confirmed that the preparations of freezing replica method and with cryo systems were useful to clarify the microstuctures of the emulsions. This methodology will be able to contribute to understanding the relation between microstuctures and rheology of emulsions.

Key Words

emulsion, freeze replica, Cryo-TEM, Cryo-SEM

백승재 Seung Jae Baik , 이영진 Youngjin Lee , 남윤정 Yoon Sung Nam , 김진한 Chin Han Kim , 김한곤 Han Kon Kim , 강학희 Hak Hee Kang

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Abstract

To know what happens to the internal structure of emulsions under high shear flow is very important for cosmetic product development because it is highly relevant to the physical degradation of emulsions during the application upon the skin. Here, in order to investigate the response of emulsions against the external shear forces, we designed a new device, JELLI^TM (Joint Electro-rheometer for Liquid-Liquid Inversion) chip, for the measurement of electrical and rheological properties of emulsions under shear flow. By using this device, we examined the real-time changes in conductivities of oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions on the artificial skin during large deformation under shear flow. In this study, O/W and W/O emulsions having various volumes were prepared. After emulsions were homogeneously applied on the artificial skin, the electrical resistance and viscosity changes were monitored under steady shear flow. In case of O/W emulsions, the resistance increased as a function of time. The resistance showed more dramatic increase as the increase of the internal oil phase. It was also found that the viscosity change was proportional to the resistance variation. This phenomenon might be caused by decreased resisting forces against the shear flow because of the breakdown of the internal phase.

Key Words

emulsion, phase inversion, JELLI^TM chip, rheology

김진화 Jin-hwa Kim , 박성민 Sung-min Park , 심관섭 Gwan-sub Sim , 이범천 Bum-chun Lee , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo

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Abstract

The human skin is constantly exposed to environmental irritants such as ultraviolet, smoke, chemicals. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by these environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. These irritants are in themselves damaging to the skin structure but they also participate the immensely complex inflammatory reaction. The purpose of this study was to investigate the skin cell protective effect of Juniperus chinensis xylem extract on the UV and SLS-induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. We found that Juniperus chinensis xylem extracts had potent radical scavenging effect by 98％ at 100 ㎍/mL. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of matrix metalloproteinase-l(MMP-1, collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UV A induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97％ at 100 ㎍/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79％ at 25 ㎍/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. In this test Juniperus chinensis decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30％. Expression of prostaglandin E₂, (PGE₂) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay (EIA) using PGE₂ monoclonal antibody. At the concentrations of 5-50 ㎍/mL of the extracts, the production of PGE₂ by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 hours after 10 mJ/cm² UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p〈0.05). The viability of cultured HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly reduced at the doses of above 10 mJ/cm² of UVB irradiation, but the presence of these extracts improved cell viability comparing to control after UVB irradiation. We also investigated the protective effect of this extract in sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced irritant skin reactions from 24 hour exposure. Twice a day application of the extract for reducing local inflammation in human skin was done. Irritant reactions were assessed by various aspects of skin condition, that is, erythema (skin color reflectance) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). After 5 days the extract was found to reduce SLS-induced skin erythema and improve barrier regeneration when compared to untreated symmetrical test site. In conclusion, our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions such as radical production, inflammation and skin cell damage.

Key Words

juniperus chinensis, skin cell protection, anti-inflammation

김영옥 Young-ok Kim , 이정옥 Jung-ok Lee , 이백석 Baek-seok Lee , 김은기 Eun-ki Kim

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Abstract

Selenium containing peptide was produced by culturing yeast with selenium, Selenium was broadly incorporated in the various size of proteins based on the GPC analysis of the total yeast protein. The ratio of selenium to protein increased with the concentration of added selenium in the culture medium. Antioxidant activity (glutathione peroxidase-like activity) was proportional to the concentration of selenium concentration in the peptide. Different size of proteins were obtained by hydrolyzing the total yeast protein by protease XIV. Average molecular weight of selenium peptide was analyzed by GPC. Glutathione peroxidase (GPx) activity of the selenium peptide increased as the size of peptide decreased. Sodium selenite had strong inhibition on the yeast growth than sodium selenate. The ratio of selenium to protein was higher with sodium selenate than with sodium selenite. These results showed the potentials of selenium peptide production by yeast cultivation.

Key Words

selenium peptide, yeast, GPx, antioxidant

김수남 Su-nam Kim , 이소희 So-hee Lee , 최규호 Gyu-ho Choi , 장이섭 Ih-seop Jang , 이병곤 Byeong-gon Lee

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Abstract

In order to investigate the beneficial effects of parsely (Petroselinurn sativum) extract on skin, we measured the synthesis of total collagen and type I procollagen in cultured normal human fibroblast (NHF), the synthesis of prostaglandin E₂ (PCE₂), interleukin 1α(IL-1α) and tumor necrosis factor α (TNFα) in HaCaT cell and we also measured dermal thickness and density in hairless mouse (Female albino hairless mice, Skh:hr-1). As the results, the synthesis of total collagen and type I procollagen were increased 23％ and 18％ respectively, after 1 ㎍/mL parsley extract treatment. The producions of PGE₂ induced by UVB irradiation were decreased 60％ after 1 ㎍/mL parsley extract treatment. The treatment with 1 ㎍/mL parsley extract also decreased the synthesis of IL-1α and TNFα induced by 10 uM RA, 100 ㎍/mL SLS and 30 mJ/cm² UVB irradiation, After 4 days treatment with 1％ parsley extract, the dermal thickness of hairless mouse was increased 1.5 times and the density of dermis was tighter than control. These results indicate that parsley extract have anti-aging and anti-irritation effects on skin.

Key Words

skin, parsley extract, collagen, aging, PGE₂

이미영 Mi Young Lee , 김은정 Eun Jung Kim , 이희경 Hee Kyung Lee , 서영경 Young Kyung Seo , 이민선 Min Sun Lee , 고재숙 Jae Sook Koh

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Abstract

In this study, we evaluated the crow's feet of 152 Korean women by using visual assessment established by our research group and mechanical assessment, Skin Visiometer SV 600. The volunteers were divided into 3 groups according to age; the group I of 30's was 43, the group II of 40's was 75, the group III of 50's was 34. The wrinkle score by visual assessment showed tendency to increase according to age and was statistically significant different among those three age groups (P < 0.05). But there was no significant difference between the left and the right of crow's feet. The 5 wrinkle parameters (R1, R2, R3, R4, R5) of mechanical assessment varied as age and the R1, R4, and R5 showed statistically significant difference among three age groups (P < 0.05). However there was no significant difference between the left and the right of crow's feet. The volunteers were divided into 3 groups according to wrinkle score; (0-3 grade for group A, 4-6 grade for group B, 7-9 grade for group C). Only R4 and R5 showed significant difference between group A and group C (P < 0.05). It was suggested that visual scoring criteria applied in this study was related to R4 and R5 and was useful in investigating in fine wrinkles.

Key Words

craw′s feet, wrinkle, visual assessment, mechanical assessment

엄정녀 Jeong-nyeo Eom , 김주덕 Ju-duck Kim

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Abstract

Recently, the golden age of herbal cosmetics has come. Along with active introduction of oriental herbal lines, diversification of distribution channels is designated as a major feature. In this background, the present study attempts to consider the domestic market for oriental herbal cosmetics, which is growing rapidly with the introduction of various new brands, and examine the perceptions of this new type of cosmetics by women consumers based on their purchase behaviors, and search for the ways for its promotion and development. A survey was conducted to adult women consumers aged 19∼60 residing in Seoul or Gyeonggi-do. Out of a total of 430 surveys distributed, 350 answer sheets were used for the analysis Among the results, the first-hand information on the herbal cosmetics market, their usage, and the consumer needs obtained in the present study will serve as a fundamental data for planning the marketing strategies for the oriental herbal cosmetics.

Key Words

oriental herbal cosmetics, purchase, behaviors, women in the metropolitan area

김리라 Li-la Kim , 김주덕 Ju-duck Kim

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Abstract

The goal of this study was to get the basic data for the domestic cosmetic industry, through analyzing female college students’ responses to cosmetic care of hair and their behavior, and their preference for hair cosmetics and brands. In their level of understanding and concern of hair cosmetic care, as well as their general knowledge, ‘dyed or decolorized hair’ types had the highest response rate at 49％, followed by ‘permanent wave’ type at 39％. Thus they were very interested in hairdressing-related operations, and even they made an attempt to do it directly. In the ways and management for dealing with harmful side effects caused by dyeing, decolorizing, or permanent, 74.7％ of the respondents experienced adverse effects, as well as having complaints, after permanent wave. Of the complaints 245 students experienced, ‘hair damage’ was the highest rate of 42.4％, followed by ‘unsatisfied with hair style’ at 19.8％. From the above results, female college students showed a various interest in hair cosmetic care; however, they had little knowledge in this regard. Accordingly, it is necessary to educate them for the segmentation of hair cosmetics and the appropriate hair care, to meet their diversified cosmetic needs which becomes diversified, and to offer them the correct information of hair beauty.

Key Words

hair cosmetic care, female college students, hairdressing-related operations, hair beauty

김경동 Kyoung Dong Kim

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Abstract

Exessive UV radiation causes a lot of problems in our skin. In order to find out the alternative UV absorber that can safely be used in cosmetics, we have screened various natural extracts in terms of their UV absorbing effect. Some natural extracts, which possess antioxidative activities, have also been found to retard the oxidation process in our experiment. Natural compound such as 7-hydroxycymopol, baicalein, etc. could be transformed into adjuvant UV absorber by chemical modification. In cosmetics, its chemical stability against UV radiation, exposure to oxygen and other factors could be improved by using the silicone or W/S type emulsion. The values of MED (minimal erythema dose) were improved to 0.10 ± 0.02∼0.11 ± 0.02 by adding this natural extract into the cosmetic formulations. In conclusion, the results of the present study show that natural extracts could be used as an adjuvant UV absorber, if they are stabilized.

Key Words

UV absorber, 7-hydroxycymopol, baicalein, W/S type emulsion, MED

지홍근 Hong Guen Ji , 최정식 Jung Sik Choi , 이순근 Soon Keun Lee , 조용백 Yong Baik Cho , 표성수 Sung Soo Pyo , 한창균 Chang Kyun Han , 김주현 Joo Hyon Kim , 정기원 Ki Won Joung , 윤세준 Se Jun Yun , 신정주 Jeong Joo Shin

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Abstract

Numerous novel ingredients have been introduced for the higher functionality of whitening cosmetics. Through the preliminary research, we have found Trichosanthes kirilowii root, Prunella vulgaris leaf and Clematis chinensis root have high whitening efficacy. But they are insoluble. Moreover the discoloration of and decrease in content take place when they are exposed to light, heat or oxygen. From Trichosanthes kirilowii root, Prunella vulgaris leaf and Clematis chinensis root, efficacious ingredients were ethanol-extracted by heating to 75∼85°C for 6∼8 h. These extracts have the inhibitory activity of tyrosinase and B16 melanin formation, thus enhancing whitening effect. We made liposomes using propylene glycol (PG)/hydrogenated lecithin/middle chain triglycerides (MCT)/glycerin/water and microfuidizer to stabilize extracts. The stability against heat and light was enhanced by 3∼5 times compared with untreated extracts. Particle size analyzer, freeze fracture transmission electron microscopy (FF-TEM), chromameter and HPLC are used for the analysis.

Key Words

trichosanthes kirilowii root, prunella vulgaris leaf, clematis chinensis root, whitening material, liposome

안성연 Sungyeon Ahn , 배지현 Ji Hyun Bae , 이해광 Hae Kwang Lee , 문성준 Seong Joon Moon , 장이섭 Ih-seop Chang

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Abstract

The major advantage of the in vitro test is that it is a rapid, objective and cost-effective screening methodology. In vitro tests can provide a formulation tool to identify new fillers that are optimized by combinations of old ones and they can be used to pre-screen protective formulas prior to in vivo testing in humans. Therefore, the accuracy of in vitro SPF measurement is very important. In this study, improvement of application method of samples was tried to improve the accuracy of in vitro SPF measurement. The outer part of Transpore^® tape was used to apply samples as the substrates and the standard drying time was set at 15 min. The new method, topical applications at light scan areas, results in more accurate and reliable results. This result suggests that more accurate prediction system can be established for in vivo SPF with in vivo SPF measurement.

Key Words

김기영 Ki Young Kim , 이재형 Jae Hyung Lee , 진주영 Ju Young Jin , 양시용 Si Yong Yang

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Abstract

Anti-skin aging agent could be have an inhibition effect of ROS production as well as fragmentation and change of collagen cross linkage in collagen molecule. For the monitoring of lipid peroxidation and collagen degradation, the skin of young and old rats were incised and observed 7 days. In the result, the wound closure was observed in the skin from 10 of 11 young rats and in 8 of 11 old rats. And the longer wound length but shorter wound closure, weaker collagen density and thicker epidermis were observed in old rats than in young rats. The level of hydroxyproline as a parameter of collagen synthesis and MDA as a parameter of lipid peroxidation was lower in old group than in young group. The cyst and lacuna between collagen bundle and fibroblast were observed in old rats in contrast to young rats. So that we propose that MDA and hydroxyproline could be used for monitoring of anti-skin aging agent.

Key Words

alteration, antioxidant, malonedialdehyde, collagen, hydroxyproline