Zalfa A. Abdel-malek

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Abstract

The extensive variation in human cutaneous pigmentation is mainly due to differences in the rate of melanin synthesis by epidermal melanocytes, the relative amounts of eumelanin and pheomelanin synthesized, and the manner and rate of transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. Pigmentation is a complex trait that is regulated genetically and environmentally. One gene that has been receiving a lot of attention is the gene for the melanocortin 1 receptor The extensive polymorphism of this gene in human populations suggests its significance in the diversity of pigmentation. Exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UV) results in increased synthesis of a variety of growth factors, cytokines and hormones, and in modulation of their receptors in the epidermis. Knowledge about the regulation of pigmentation has led to strategies for clinical treatment of hyperpigmented skin lesions. Three main strategies are: 1) the use of chemicals that interfere with the melanin synthetic pathway, 2) the design of peptides or peptide-mimetics based on the structure of hormones that regulate eumelanin synthesis, and 3) the use of agents that reduce melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. All three strategies are expected to induce hypopigmentation, by inhibiting total melanin synthesis, eumelanin production, or the epidermal melanin unit, respectively.

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Kyu-wang Whang

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Abstract

Various kind of whitening agents have been reported in Korea, but standard efficacy protocols are not established yet. So more economical, reproducible standard efficacy assay for whitening agents are needed. As a dermatology specialist, non radio-labeled intracellular melanin assay may be a good candidate for melanogenesis assay and MTT assay with normal human melanocytes may be a good candidate for cell proliferation assay.

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Youn-soo Kim

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Abstract

Quantitative measurement of melanin is the best method to evaluate whitening effect of cosmetics on human skin. However, non-invasive method to quantify human skin melanin with high precision has not been established. Whitening effect of cosmetics on the skin results in lightening of skin color. Therefore, it is reasonable to measure skin color in a reproducible manner for the assessment of whitening effect. Several Instruments or methods, such as colorimeter, mexameter, and visual assessments by experts, have been used for this purpose. In this lecture I will review the details of various assessment methods for the evaluation of whitening effect and discuss the pros and cons of each method. Then I will present briefly the results of clinical trial. Finally I will introduce new non-invasive modalities to quantify melanocytes.

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Yoko Funasaka

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Abstract

Whitening agents are eagerly demanded especially by oriental women who often suffers from the pigmentary disorders such as melasma and solar lentigines. As these pigmentary disorders are exacerbated by ultraviolet (UV), the whitening agents could exert its effect not only by inhibiting melanin synthesis but also by inhibiting UV activated signals. Eumelanin protects UV-induced DNA damages so that the chemicals which could reduce UV-induced DNA damages might be the ideal lightening agents. The effect of newly synthesized antioxidants, a-tocopheryl ferulate, on protective effect for UV-induced DNA damages as well as inhibiting melanin synthesis are briefly shown. For clinical evaluation, our results of the efficacy of lightening agents on treating pigment macules in combination with chemical peeling are shown. Furthermore, newly developed facial image analyzers to quantitatively evaluate the improvement of pigment macules are introduced.

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Vera Rogiers

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Abstract

Council Directive 76/768/EEC forms the basis of the actual legislation of cosmetics in the European Union (EU). After a short introduction on the background and philosophy of this legislation, the key points will be discussed. In particular, attention will be given to the basic principles for safety and in this context the effects of the implementation of the 6th Amendment (Council Directive 93/35/EC) will be analysed. The major points for discussion will be: the safety requirements for cosmetics and the final responsibility for bringing these products on the EU market; the EU concept of safety of the finished product based on the safety of the individual ingredients; the existence of positive and negative lists of ingredients and the requirement for a European dossier for all finished products. Special attention will be given to the use of validated alternative methods and the consequences of the new proposal of a 7th Amendment. Finally, the safety evaluation as it is done by the SCCNFP (Scientific Committee on Cosmetics and Non-Food Products) in the case of an ingredient present on the positive lists and the evaluation done by a safety assessor in the case of a technical information file for a finished product, both will be discussed in detail.

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이상열 Sang-yeul Lee

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Abstract

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Seung-jae Jang

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Abstract

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손경훈 Kyung Hun Son , 김영옥 Young Ok Kim , 이정표 Jeong Pyo Lee , 양성준 Seong Jun Yang , 백옥진 Ock Jin Paek , 김원희 Won Hee Kim , 김종갑 Chong Kap Kim , 허문영 Moon Young Heo , 최상숙 Sang Sook Choi

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Abstract

The present study was undertaken to develop the in vitro sunprotection factor(SPF) measurement method having good correlation with in vivo method. As in vitro method, 8% homomentyl salicylate, P3 reference standard and sunscreens on market were measured using SPF 290 analyzer and were compared the SPF with labed value. In vitro SPF of 8% HMS and P3 reference standard were 4.59 ± 0.12 and 14.94 ± 0.83. There are good correlation, correlation factor were 0.9506 and 0.9769 respectively, between the in vitro and in vivo SPF for the sunscreen creams and lotions examined. Correlation factors of makeup base & liquid goundation, lotion labled with “shake before use”, compact powder were 0.8812, 0.8632 and 0.5984. The best sample applied method of compact powder was 1:0.8 mixture with cream base. These results suggest that the in vitro test method could be used as an alternative method for SPF.

Key Words

자외선차단지수, SPF, in vitro, 자외선차단지수측정기, 상관계수, Sunprotection factor, SPF 290 analyzer, correlation factor