김병관 Byung-kwan Kim , 한종대

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김영소 Young So Kim , 정혜진 Hye Jin Jeong , 장이섭 Ih Seop Chang

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Taeboo Choe , Bumchun Lee , Inchul Park , Seokil Hong

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The production of matrix matalloproteinases(MMPs) by the UV irradiated skin fibroblast and the degradation of extracellular matrix(ECM) by these enzymes is known as one of the main reasons of photoaging. Recently, Fisher group showed that the MMP expression is mainly regulated by the mitogen-activated protein(MAP) kinas family, such as extracellular signal-regulated kinase(ERK), c- Jun amino-terminal kinase(JNK) and p38, each of which forms a signaling pathway. In this work, we first examined the effect of nitric oxide (NO) on the production of MMP-1 and MMP-2 by the human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). NO is a multifunctional messenger molecule generated from L-arginine and involved in many kinds of signaling pathway. We found that the treatment of HDF with NO donor, sodium nitroprusside (SNP) enhanced the expression of MMPs with or without UV irradiation and the treatment with nitric oxide synthase (NOS) inhibitors resulted in the significant decrease of MMPs production. From these results, we concluded that the production of MMPs by the UV irradiated HDF is regulated through the signaling pathway involving NO and cyclic GMP.

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유영근 , 신미희 , 정민석 , 최종완

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본 연구는 널리 알려져 있는 항산화제들의 세포 수준에서의 anti-oxidative stress 효과 및 그 기작을 알아보기 위한 연구이다. 연구에 사용한 항산화제로는 지용성인 retinol, α-tocopherol, propyl gallate(PG) 및 butylated hydroxy toluene(BHT)과 수용성인 ascorbic acid, α-glucosyl rutin 및 green tea extract를 사용하였으며 이들 항산화제들의 시간별 세포 생존율을 NR assay로 측정한 후 적정 농도에서 DCFH-DA(2',7-dichlorofluorescin-diacetate)를 이용하여 항산화제들의 anti-oxidative stress 억제 효과를 시간별로 측정하였다. 또한 이들 항산화제의 항산화 기작을 알아보기 위하여 NBT(Nitro-blue-tetrazolium) 및 DPPH(Diphenyl- picry-hydrazyl)도 병행하여 실시하였다. Anti-oxidative stress 실험에서 지용성 항산화제들은 전반적으로 수용성 항산화제에 비하여 세포에 대한 독성이 상대적으로 강하여 retinol의 경우에는 0.01%에서 oxidative stress 억제 효과를 관찰할 수 있었으며 1시간경과 후 측정시 53.1%의 억제 효과喜 보여주었다. PG의 경우에는 0.1%에서 2시간 경과 후 측정시 50%의 oxidative stress 억제 효과를 보여주었다. 수용성 항산화제인 green tea extract 및 α-glucosyl rutin의 경우에는 1%에서 I시간 경과 후 측정시 각각 51.6% 및 69.7%의 oxidative stress 억제 효과를 관찰할 수 있었다. 또한 시료처리 후 자외선 조사시 oxidative stress 억제 효과의 경우 수용성 항산화제인 ascorbic acid, α-glucosyl rutin 및 green tea extract와 지용성 항산화제 중에서는 5~ tocopherol 에서만 oxidativestress 억제 효과가 관찰되었으나 자외선을 조사하지 않았을 때 보다 약 20%-40%까지 억제 효과가 감소되었다. 그리고 PG 및 retinol의 경우에는 자외선 조사시 독성 이 증가하여 oxidative stress 억제 효과를 측정 할 수 없었다. NBT 실험에서 α-glucosyl rutin, a-tocopherol 및 PG 1%에서 70%이상의 superoxide anion 생성 억제 효과를 보였으며 DPPH 실험에서는 ascorbic acid와 PG 1%에서 98%의 hydroxyl radical 생성 억제 효과를 보여주었다. 본 실험을 통하여 BHT 를 제외하고 전반적으로 세포 수준에서의 oxidative stress에 대한 억제 효과를 확인해 볼 수 있었으며 특히 수용성 항산화제들에서 두드러진 효과를 보여 주었다.

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조춘구 Choon Koo Zhoh , 한창규 Chang Giu Han , 흥우진 Woo Jin Hong

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In an attempt to compare the antioxidation effects of constrain the oxidation and improve the structural stability, retinol and various antioxidants were together encapsulated by liposome. Four water soluble and four oil soluble antioxidants were tested for performance. The influence of tertiary butylhydroquinone(TBHQ), α-glycosyl rutin(α-G rutin), licorece, pycnogenol as water soluble antioxidants and butylated hydroxytoluene(BHT), α-lipoic acid, ferulic acid, natural concentrated tooopherol(no-tocopherol) as oil soluble antioxidants on the constraint of oxidation of retinol were investigated. Additional study was conducted to compare the synergic effect of antioxidation for retinol with licorice, pycnogenol, α-lipoic acid and BHT. All the antioxidant used at the study constrained oxidation of retinol. The effect of antioxidation for retinol increased in order of licorice, pycnogenol, TBHQ, α-G rutin as water soluble antioxidants and α-lipoic acid, BHT, no-tocopherol, ferulic acid as oil soluble antioxidants. In conclusion, α-lipoic acid is more effective retinol antioxidants than BHT. And the combination of α-lipoic acid and BHT gave best synergic among six combinations.

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Kang Tae Lee , Sun Young Lee , Ji Hean Jeong , Byoung Kee Jo

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open button Abstract In the aged skin especially in the face and eyelid, deep and slight wrinkles are one of the remarkable phenomena of aging and the cause of wrinkle is various. Among the cause of wrinkles an oxidative stress plays an important roles in wrinkle formation process. It caused the lipid peroxidation of cell membrane, the increase of the MMPs(MatrixMetalloProteinase) gene expression and cellular DNA damage. These ROS induced materials may cause the degradation of collagen matrix system in the dermis and cause the formation of skin wrinkle. So, it is very important for protecting skin wrinkle formation to regulate ROS activity. In this study, we developed one active ingredient having multi functional activities such as activation of collagen synthesis, inhibition of MMPs activity, lipid peroxidation and free radical scavenging activity and inhibition of free radical induced DNA damage in vitro. Pericarpium castaneae extracts showed collagen synthesis increase in Normal Human Fibroblast and the inhibition of elastase activity (IC₅₀/ of Elastase: 43.9㎍/㎖). It showed also anti-oxidative activity (IC₅₀/ : 48㎍/㎖) and free radical scavenging activity(IC₅₀/: 7.6㎍/㎖). Conclusively, Pericarpium castaneae extracts may be used as an ingredient for new anti-wrinkle cosmetics.

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김인영 In-young Kim , 이계종 Kye-jong , 정성원 Lee Sung-won Jung , 이주동 Joo-dong Lee , 유희창 Hee-chang Lyoo , 조춘구 Choon-koo Zhoh

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Taxus cuspidata Sieb selected cultivation as drug, food and decorative plant in Kyong-gi province in Korea. As a manufacturing method, there were extracted from 250g of dried-leaf and 300g of dried-stem with each 200g of BG, PG and water (to 100) mixing for 72 hour at 50±5℃ and then they were filtered by 400-mesh filter. Appearance of extract of leaves was slight brown, pH=5.3±0.5, gravity was 1.012±0.05, and a reflective index was 1.375±0.05. And appearance of extract of stems was slightly dark brown, pH=5.4±0.5, gravity was 1.016±0.05, and a reflective index was 1.358±0.05. It was extracted oil from Taxus seed. Gravity was 0.922±0.05 and it should be obtained the 27.0±0.5% of yield. The molecular weight of polysaccharide was about 50,000 to 300,000 dalton and contained 5.0±1.2% of yield from Taxus fruit. The determinations of total polyphenols in measuring spectropotometer got 0.563% in leaves, and 0.325% in stems, whereas the quantitives of total tannins got 0.054% and 0.037%, respectively. As the effects in Cosmetics by DPPH-method, the antioxidative activities were very strong that the inhibitory ratio showed 75% in leaves and 64% in stems compared with 52% in greentea extract. These are more effective than other plant extracts. The increasing ratio of collagen synthesis rate on the activating fibroblast for extracts of Taxus cuspidata Sieb showed 54.16% (stems) and 33.18% (leaves), To improve the skin elasticity, PPE(porcine pancreatic elastase)-inhibitory activities were strongly effective as 13,7% (stems), 23.5% (leaves) and 66%(seed). Anti-inflammatory acitvity of seed oil was very the above 41% stronger than SG was 24% of anti-Inflammatory as a control sample.

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taxus, taxus extract, polypkenols, tannins, anti-oxidative activity, fibrblast proliferation, elastase inhibition, anti-aging effect, yew

Nae-gyu Kang , Ji-eun Park , Young-sook Song , Jung-ah Kim , Mun-eok Park , Yong-hwa Lee , Jong-tae Lee , Wan-goo Cho , Seh-hoon Kang

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Tests of stability and toxicity, and clinical evaluation of anti-acne activity suggest that cryptotanshinone, a constituent of the roots of Salvia miltiorrhiza Bunge, is an effective active ingredient for acne vulgaris treatments. Acne vulgaris, called acne or pimples, is the most common disease of the pilosebaceous follicle unit of the skin. It affects nearly 80% of people between the ages of 11 and 30. Approximately 30% of teenagers have acne of sufficient severity to require medical treatment. Acne is a follicular disorder of the skin. It occurs in specialized pilosebaceous units on the face and body. Acne develops when these specialized follicles undergo pathologic alterations that result in the formation of non-inflammatory lesions (comedones) and inflammatory lesions (papules, pustules and nodules). An abnormality of keratinizing epithelium of these follicles, thought to be due to the action of sebum synthesized and secreted by the androgen-sensitive sebaceous glands, leads to inflammation induced by the follicular bacterium Propionibacterium acnes. Therapy involves treatments that modify these pathogenic factors and includes drugs with antikeratinizing, antibacterial and antiseborrheic actions. Acne vulgaris is a very frequent disease, seen primarily in adolescents, involving the sebaceous follicles. Acne vulgaris is characterized by a great variety of clinical inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions: comedones, papules, pustules, nodules, cysts and scars. Acne vulgaris is a multi-factorial disease. Although its pathogenicity is unclear, extensive studies have shown that hyperseborrhea, superinfection by P. acnes and endocrinologic androgenic changes play a role in the development of acne vulgaris.

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acne vulgaris, anti-acne treatments, botanicals

조광용 , 문재유 , 김진국 , 정의수 , 엄상영 , 이용우 , 이광길 , 여주홍 , 조종수

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황재성 Jae-sung Hwang , Hyunjung Shin , Ho-sick Noh , Hyunjung Choi , Soo-mi Ahn , Dong Soon Park , Duck Hee Kim , Byeong Gon Lee , Ihseop Chang , Hak Hee Kang

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To date, research on the regulation of melanogenesis has focused on factors which affect tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in the melanogenic pathway, by searching for chemicals which competitively inhibit tyrosinase function. Many types of tyrosinase inhibitors have been developed, but no satisfactory results have been made clinically until now. To find a new whitening agent, which effectively inhibits melanogenesis, we synthesized several compounds and selected compounds by cellbased assay system. Finally, 3,4,5-trimethoxy cinnamate thymol ester(TCTE, Melasolv^®) was selected and the effects of TCTE on melanogenesis were investigated. Treatment of mouse-derived melanocyte melan-a cells with TCTE results in a marked down-regulation of tyrosinase activity. 80% decrease of tyrosinase activity occurs with 30μM TCTE treatment for 72 hours without affecting cell growth. The inhibition of tyrosinase activity is dose-dependent and melanin content was also decreased to 40%. From the in vitro tyrosinase assay using cell extract, TCTE does not act as a direct inhibitor of the enzyme. Treatment of melan-a cultures with TCTE blocks the increase in tyrosinase activity by either forskolin, 3-isobutyl-l-methtyl-xanthine. TCTE decreased the expression of tyrosinase, TRP-l without effects on TRP-2 protein expression through the down regulation of tyrosinase and TRP-l mRNA. From the results of cAMP immunoassays, intracellular levels of the cyclin nucleotide are unaffected in cells treated with TCTE. The inhibitory effects of melanin synthesis were also shown in reconstitute human epidermis model by topical application. These findings suggest that TCTE can be used for studying the regulation of melanogenesis and de pigmenting agent.

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김광수 Kwangsoo Kim , 오세종 Sejong Oh , 김기환 Gihwan Kim , 홍진천 Jinchon Hong , 이승화 Seunghwa Lee

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The purpose of this study was to evaluate bacteriocin activity against human flora. Lactobiocin, a bacteriocin produced by Lactococcus sp. HY 449, inhibited the growth of Starphylococcus epidermidis, Starphylococcus aureus, Streptoccoccus pyogenes and Propionibacterium acnes. When crude bacteriocin was added to indicator cells during logarithmic growth, the optical density(O.D 650nm) of cells without bacteriocin increase after 5h of incubation. Whereas in the presence of bacteriocin, the O.D of cell suspensions decreased. The similar patterns were observed for absorbance readings at 280 nm and 260 nm. The release of cellular components when cell were treated with Lactobiocin suggests some degree of membrane damage or cell lysis. Scanning electron microscopy of cells following treatments with Lactobiocin in PBS buffer revealed disruptures of cell morphology. These results indicate that bacteriocin appears to cause cell lysis of tested strains. In cytotoxicity on human fibroblast, LD50/ of Lactobiocin was ca. 50 mg/ml and no change was observed cell proliferation at the same concentration. Any irritation and allergic reaction did not observed when evaluated by human patch test for Lactobiocin.

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Lactobiocin, 피부염증, 여드름, 여드름저해효과

조춘구 Choon-koo Zhoh , 김봉남 Bong-nam Kim , 홍세흠 Se-heum Hong , 한창규 Chang-giu Han

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Aroma oils extracted from the natural material have antibacterial, antivirus, antiinflammatory, and preservative effect. The preserve efficacy testing between aroma oils and parabens as an artificial preservative had been performed and then it had been suggested that aroma oil was possibile to apply to the cosmetics. Aroma oils were pine, rosemary, lemon and eucalyptus, and parabens were methylparaben, blitylparaben. Antiseptic concentrations of aroma oils and parabens having 0.0, 0.1, 0.2, 0.4, 0.8, 1.0wt% were tested respectively. Escherichia coil(ATCC No.8739), Pseudomonas aeruginosa(ATCC No. 9027) which are gram-negative and Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC No. 6538), Bacillus subtilis(ATCC No. 6633) which are gram-positive were used as the test organisms. Disk paper and broth dilution methods were used as the methods of preservative efficacy testing. The antibacterial activity of aroma oils and parabens for gram-positive were better than that for gram-negative. For the antibacterial activity aroma oils were better than parabens. Among the aroma oils, rosemary and pine having superior antibacterial activity were selected and blended to illuminate if there is any synergy, There was synergical effect and optimum ratio of aroma blend is 3 : 1(rosemary pine) in this study.

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이재섭 , 양은경 , 이정하 , 김철호 , 박수남 , 이종원 , 김기호

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김주덕 Kim Ju-duck , 주란 Ju Rhan , 이선영 Lee Sun-young

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There have been a lot of research going on for developing a new blend of cosmetic ingredients. such as Porous sphere power, High functional composition power, Ultrafine power, UV sunscreen agent, Flat titanium dioxide etc. It's said that these ingredients will have multi functional effects on foundation users. Regarding foundation products. UV care effect is basic and consumers want special feelings for skin and its'transparency. People also look for a high performance foundation which helps skin stay shineless and flawless with a longlasting beautiful finish. A lot of cosmetics are produced in small quantities resulting in a greater variety depending on consumers'ages, hobbies, trends, season and environment, so more specific cosmetics should be developed. To satisfy more specific clientele, It is expected that special care product will come out. Foundations for the elderly and men are already being considered as well as ones for trans-genders are possibility. It's considered that fecundation is not a makeup but something in skin-care categories based on the development and production of high performonce foundations.

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파운데이션, 파운데이션기능, 화장품

장혜인 Hyein Jang , 이경철 Kyungchul Lee , 홍성호 Sungho Hong , 지홍근 Hongkeun Ji , 이승화

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High concentrated TiO₂ nano colloids were synthesized by sol-gel method. Reactions were performed in TiCI₄/HCI/H₂O aqueous solution and the conditions of particles such as shape, size and aggregation, etc. were controlled by polymerization and adsorption of acrylamide in surface of TiO₂ nano particles. And also, aminopropyltriethoxysilane was added instead of acrylamide and compared each other. The prepared colloids were well dispersed and showed the strong absorption peaks at 350nm-370nm which is blue shifted to 20-30nm, compared to macro particles. The obtained techniques from TiO₂ nano colloids synthesis were utilized in coating on boron nitride powders which are nonpolar and isoelectronic materials of carbon. Their surface morphology, structure, thermal stability and U.V absorption characteristics were examined by SEM(Scanning Electron Microscopy), XRD(X-ray diffraction), TG/DTA(Thermogravimetric and Differential Thermal Analysis), UV-VIS(Ultraviolet- Visible Spectroscopy).corresponding auther(e-mail:shlee6914@hanmail.net)

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