김문정 Moonjeong Kim , 장동일 Dongil Jang , 신의석 Euiseok Shin , 이진선 Jinseon Lee , 노민수 Minsoo Noh

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양은경 Eun Kyung Yang , 윤희훈 Hee Hoon Yoon , 박정극 Jung Keug Park , 박수남 Soo Nam Park , 고강일 Kang-ii Ko , 김기호 Ki Ho Kim

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Cytotoxicity assays using artificial skins have been proposed as in vitro alternatives to minimize animal ocular and dermal irritation testing. Accordingly, the responses of artificial skins to the well- characterized chemical irritants toluene, glutaraldehyde, and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and the non- irritant polyethylene glycol were studied. The evaluation of the irritating and non-irritating test chemicals was also compared with the responses observed in human dermal fibroblasts and human epidermal keratinocytes grown in a monolayer culture. The responses monitored included an MTT mitochondrial functionality assay. In order to better understand the local mechanisms involved in skin damage and repair, the production of several mitogenic proinflammatory mediators, interleukin-lα, 12-HETE，and 15-HETE, was also investigated. Dose-dependent increases in the levels of II，la and the HETEs were observed in the underlying medium of the skin systems exposed to the two skin irritants, glutaraldehyde and SLS. The results of the present study show that both human artificial skins can be used as efficient in vitro testing models for the evaluation of skin toxicity and for screening contact skin irritancy.

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김경동 Kyung-dong Kim , 이용두 Yong-doo Lee , 박성순 Seong-soon Park , 윤성화 Sung-hwa Youn , 이석현 Seok-hyun Lee

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Recently the harmfulness of UV radiation is in creasing due to environmental pollution. Environmental population may also play a role in global decrease of ozone layer. A major consequence of ozone depletion is increase in solar ultra violet radiation received at the earth’s surface excessive exposure to UV radiation cause a lot of problems in our skin. Plant extract that possess antioxidative activities has been reported to retard the oxidation process in product to which they have been added. Plant are alived under solar light. So it is expect the plants have so many protection mechanisms and UV absorbent ingredients against ultra violet radiation such as UVB, UVA. Plant extract which were flavonoids, alkaloids and others could be transformed into UV absorber by chemical modification. Therefore with the aim of finding alternative natural absorber that can safely be used in cosmetic, we have screened various extract for their UV absorbent effect. Thus, the cosmetic safety against human skin, antimicrobial effects and others could be improved by using the silicon.

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유영근 , 정민석 , 최종완

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김무성 , 이동철 , 이성구 , 강병영 , 선보경 , 안수선 , 심영철 , 강학희

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Development of stabilized enzyme was attempted for cosmetic applications. Papain, a proteolytic enzyme, was stabilized through conjugation with a soluble carbohydrate biopolymer, SC-glucan™. With a novel structure of the conjugation site, stability of the enzyme was significantly enhanced such that more than 90 % of the initial activity retained after a month storage at 45℃, while no activity were detected in native enzyme or enzyme simply mixed with SC-glucan™ after the storage. Conjugation with SC-glucan™ not only extended the half-life of the enzyme on storage at higher temperature, but was also found to protect enzymes against some components contained in cosmetic products for skin care. Cosmetic lotion containing 1 % papain conjugate was more effective and less irritative in exfoliating stratum corneum of human skin than the lotion containing 5% lactic acid, one of the current popular exfoliating agents.

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박병덕 Byeong Deog Park , 이명진 Myungjin Lee , 이종기 Jong Gi Lee , 이승헌 Seung Hun Lee

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One phase liquid crystal formula was developed by using of nonionic surfactants, polyols, water and oils and its physical property was investigated. At the system of 2 to 1 ratio of POE octyldodecyl ether series, which have Y type (branch type) hydrophobic group, and POE glyceryl monostearate series, Y type hydrophilic group, it was examined that the formula at 7:3, 6:4, and 5:5 ratio of nonionic surfactant : polyols, shows Lα, a pattern which is a typical characteristic of liquid crystal structure under the cross microscope polarized film. As results of La phase diagram study, the formula which had high hydrophilic nonionic surfactant and the 7:3 ratio of nonionic surfactant: polyol appeared to increase the amount of oil containment and to be capable of the lamella formation. Besides it was examined that lamellar liquid crystal formula could contain about 25 ~ 40% water between lamella layers and it was transformed into w/o emulsion following as water content increased. When the lamella gel was applied into a human skin, it was investigated that it had effectiveness in increasing transepidermal water content of the skin.

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이범천 Bum-chun Lee , 윤은정 Eun-jeong Yoon , 이동환 Dong-hwan Lee , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo

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A bacterial strain No. HB-5, which was capable of producing a protease in the culture conditions, was isolated from the soil. The protease was purified from cultural filtrate of Bacillus sp. HB-5 by membrane ultrafiltration and DEAE- cellulose chromatography, gel filtration on Sephadex G-100. The molecular weight was estimated to be 60Kda. The optimal pH and temperature for the activity of the purified protease pH were 11 and 50°C, respectively. The enzyme was stable within a pH range 8-12 and up to 60°C. The enzyme activity was highly inhibited by PMSF at 1mM. The proteolytic actions of protease and papain on human epidermis keratins which are major protein impurities on the skin, were compared. The bacterial protease degraded more effectively than papain. Product containing 2% protease exhibited 21% increase on the skin coloration index. These results suggest that cosmetic product containing protease produced by Bacillus sp. HB-5 could remove the adherent keratin layer and then make a softer skin.

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정수정 Jeong S. J. , 선보경 Sun B. K. , 문성준 Moon S. J. , 심영철 Sim Y. C.

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신중진 Joong-jin Shin , 이근수 Geun-soo Lee , 강기춘 Ki-choon Kang , 표형배 Hyeong-bae Pyo

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The osmotic pressure is a one of the most important factor affecting stabilization of multiple emulsion in a law hours after experiment. To understand and decrease osmotic pressure between W1 phase and W2 phase, a kinds of humectants were introduced in outer water phase. As a result, Betaine and Glucose had an excellent effect reducing osmotic pressure and NaCl made W/O/W emulsion more stable than MgSO4 did when introduced in inner water phase.

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황재성 Jae-sung Hwang , 박원만 Won- Man Park , 안수미 Soo-mi Ahn , 강병영 Beyong-young Kang , 이병곤 Byeong-gon Lee , 심영철 Young- Chul Sim

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Coenzyme Q10 is found in all tissues including skin and it is the well-known coenzyme for mitochondrial enzymes. The electron and proton transfer functions of the quinone ring are of fundamental importance for the oxidative phosphorylation pathway to generate energy in the cells. Coenzyme Q10 has been studied as a potent antioxidant molecule in the skin. It is involved in the skin’s response to UVR irradiation. The concentration of this antioxidant in UVR exposed skin is higher than in non-exposed skin. However, recent studies have also shown that coenzyme Q10 is one of the first antioxidants to be depleted when skin is UVR-irradiated. This indicates that coenzyme Q10 is primarily involved in defense mechanisms of the skin. Therefore, we questioned whether coen2yme Q10 shows regulatory effect of melanogenesis. Here we report that coenzyme Q10 inhibits melanin neosynthesis of normal human melanocytes grown in culture, and lightens UVB-induced hyperpigmentation of the guinea pig skin in vivo. We treated human melanocytes with 0.05mM to 0.5mM of coenzyme Q10 for a total of two days. This inhibited melanin neosynthesis of cultured human melanocytes dose-dependently. The inhibitory effects of coenzyme Q10 was as effective as kojic acid or vitamin C on cultured human melanocytes. CoQlO didn’t have direct inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity in in vitro tyrosine hydroxylase activity. To further clarify the effect of coenzyme Q10 on the melanogenesis, we established UVB-induced hyperpigmentation on the shaved backs of brownish guinea pigs. The UVB intensity was 500mJ/cm² and the total energy dose was 1,500 mJ/cm². The animals were exposed to UVB radiation one times a week for three consecutive weeks. Coenzyme Q10, kojic acid, Arbutin, vitamin C(1% in vehicle) or vehicle alone as a control were then topically applied daily to the hyperpigmented areas twelve times per week for four successive weeks. The lightening effect was evaluated by visual scoring, chromameter and immunohistochemistry. Coenzyme Q10 had lightening effect on the UVB-induced hyperpigmentation without any other side effects, whereas another compounds showed weak lightening efficacies. Therefore, these results suggest that coenzyme Q10 may be useful for solving physiological hyperpigmenting problems for cosmetic purposes.

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조중제 Joung-jae Cho , 이건국 Kun-kook Lee , 조병기 Byung-kee Jo , 최정도 Jung-do Choi

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We have previously screened 150 medicinal plants on the inhibition of elastase and found a significant inhibitory effects of the extracts of Areca catechu L. on the aging and inflammation against the skin tissues. To isolate and identify the compounds having biological activity, we was further purified by each of the solvent fractions, silica gel column chromatography, preparative TLC and reversed-phase HPLC. Peak in HPLC, which coincided with the inhibitory activity against elastase, was identified as phenolic substance using various colorimetric methods, UV, and IR. IC₅₀ values of phenolic substance purified from Areca catechu were 26.9 μg/mℓ for porcine pancreatic elastase (PPE) and 60.8 μg/mℓ for human neutrophil elastase (HNE). This phenolic substance showed more potent activity than those of reference compounds, oleanolic acid (76.5 μg/mℓ for PPE, 219.2 μg/mℓ for HNE) and ursolic acid (31.0 μg/mℓ for PPE, 118.6 μg/mℓ for HNE). According to the Lineweaver-Burk plots, the inhibition against both PPE and HNE by this phenolic substance was competitive with substrate. Phenolic substance from Areca catechu exhibited high free radical scavenging effect (SC₅₀ - 6 μg/mℓ) and inhibited effectively hyaluronidase activity (IC₅₀ : 210 μg/mℓ). These results suggest that the phenolic substance purified from Areca catechu showed anti-aging effect by protecting connective tissue proteins.

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하병조 Byung-jo Ha , 박성규 Seong-kyu Park

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Chitosan oligosaccharide with an average degree of polymerization 2-3 was prepared by degradation reaction using sodium nitrite, and the resulting aldehyde group was reduced to hydroxy group. N-palmitoyl, O-palmitoyl chitosan oligosaccha was obtained from the reaction between palmitoyl chloride and oligosaccharide under DMAP catalyst. Alkaline hydrolysis was carried out to remove the O-palmitoyl group. After dispersion and ultrasonication in aqueous solution, N-palmitoyl chitosan oligosaccharide gives vesicle structure. Its structure and size was analyzed by TEM.

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송영숙 Young-sook Song , 정봉열 Bong-yul Chung , 조완구 Wan-goo Cho , 강세훈 Seh-hoon Kang

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A series of novel ascorbic acid derivatives, polyethoxylated ascorbic acid (PEAA) were synthesized by coupling ascorbic acid with polyethylene glycol (PEG) of two molecular weights (MW: 350 and 550) at the C-2 or C-3 hydroxyl group (2PEAA350, 3PEAA350, 2PEAA550, 3PEAA550) to increase the stability and retain the activity, as a skin whitening agent. Their stability, scavenging activity against free radical, inhibitoiy activity against tyrosinase and inhibitory activity of melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cell of PEAAs were evaluated in vitro and compared with those of ascorbic acid and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (30EAA), a known stable vitamin C derivative. Among PEAAs, 2PEAA350 and 2PEAA550 liad high scavenging activity against free radical, inhibitoiy activity against tyrosinase and inhibitoiy activity of melanogenesis but low stability. 3PEAA350 had high stability and moderate scavenging activity against free radical, inhibitoiy activity against tyrosinase and inhibitoiy activity of melanogenesis. The stability, scavenging activity against free radical and inhibitoiy activity of melanogenesis of 3PEAA350 were higher than those of 30EAA. The most stable 3PEAA350 among PEAAs was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that PEAA would be a good whitening agent for enhancing stability and bioavailability.

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Moung Seok Yoon , Youn Bok Chung , Kun Han

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Cetostearyl alcohol has been incorporated into cosmetic or pharmaceutial emulsions to give them an appropriate consistency and a long term stability. It is well known that cetostearyl alcohol forms a gel phase with a nonionic surfactant in an aqueous system,and the properties of the gel phase depend on several factors such as the ratio of fatty alcohols. The aim of the present paper is to investigate the effect of the structural difference of the lipophilic part of surfactants on the stability of the gel phase in the nonionic surfactant / cetostearyl alcohol / water ternary systems using differential scanning calorimeter. It is concluded that the gel phase formed by the surfactant having the bended alkyl chain is more unstable than that formed by the case of the straight alkyl chain, and we discussed the reason why the former is more unstable after long term storage by means of the measurements of the AR

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Sangjune Kim , Jaeuk Lee , Hyungjin Kim , Jinjun Kim , Seh-hun Kang

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We developed a quantitative method for evaluating CEP(color expression power) in eye shadow. This method enables the cosmetic industry to measure CEP on an interval scales, so it is more accurate and reproducible than previous panel tests. Oil, colorants, Pigments and pearls are major factors affecting CEP in eye shadow formulas. We studied the oil effect on CEP using our unique method so CEP could be improved. We believe this method can be applied to other color cosmetics as well. In conclusion, we expected this method to be useful to formulator who want to improve the color expression power in color cosmetics. Additionally, we hope it will contribute toward developing the experiential know-how about color to scientific knowledge.

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Hong-geun Ji , Byoung-kee Jo

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The raw materials requiring new technology have been introduced to the market as highly functional cosmetics have been popularized recently. The doublesphere which is the new capsulation is thus bom. The doublesphere is double-layered capsulation of which the primary film is the nanocapsulation of liposome and the secondaiy film is the visible capsulation. The main component of the primary film is lecithin and that of the secondary film is algin/carrageenans/agar/cellulose. The doublesphere is characterized by that it is possible to keep active beautifying components stable and to improve the moisturizing effect, penetration power into the skin, roughness of the skin, etc. in view of its efficacy and effects since it is double-layered capsulation. The doublesphere-retinol is made in order to measure the stability, efficacy, and effects in the present study.

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liposome, microencapsulation, Doublesphere-Retinol

홍세흠 Se Heum Hong , 한창규 Chang Giu Han , 조춘구 Choon Koo Zhoh

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The o/w emulsions were prepared with saccharide surfactants which were sucrose monostearate(S 160), sucrose distearate(S110), and POE(20) methyl glucose stearate(SSE20). And for emulsion the oils used were n-hydocarbon, squalane(SQ), liquid paraffin(LP), octylpa!mitate(OP), octylstearate(OS), alkyl benzoate(AB)5 isostearyl benzoate(ISB). The structures of o/w emulsion droplet were investigated by laser light scattering and the fractal dimensions were calculated from light intensity curves. Increasing of concentration, chain length, and nonpolarity of oils, fractal dimensions of emulsion droplets were found greater. In general fractal dimensions were varied from 1.7 to 2.8 and its structures were fractal. But the fractal dimensions of octadecane(Cis), SQ, and LP emulsified with SI 10 and SI60 were varied from 3.0 to 3.2 and its structures were more dense. The overall fractal dimensions of S110 and S】60 were varied from 2.1 to 2.6，that of SSE20 were varied from 1.5 to 2,1. So it was found that the structures of SSE20 system were less compact than that of SI 10 and SI60 system, because the hindrance effect of polyoxyehtylene group of SSE20 was stronger than that of sucrose of SI60. The strucures of emulsion droplets changed according to the nature of emulsifiers and to compositions of oil substances which they contained, and the structures were found similar when the hydophilic moiety of emulsifiers was same.

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