김상욱 Sang Uk Kim , 홍지연 Ji Yeon Hong , 김용우 Yong Woo Kim , 홍인기 In Ki Hong , 현송화 Song Hua Xuan , 윤믿음 Mid Eum Yun , 이성호 Sung Ho Lee

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Abstract

In this study, a quercetin benton gel (QUERPLEX) that stabilized quercetin was prepared using organo hectorite, and its efficacy was confirmed. In addition, a comparative study was conducted on the stability and effectiveness of applying this to sunscreen cosmetics. It was confirmed that QUERPLEX remained stable without showing crystal precipitation and growth for 4 weeks. As a result of measuring antioxidant activity using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), it showed antioxidant activity depending on the concentration, and showed a radical elimination ability of 70% or more at a concentration of 2,500 ppm or more, confirming a significant effect. Anti-inflammatory activity experiments using RAW 264.7 cells confirmed that NO production decreased in a concentration-dependent manner by reducing NO production by 8% at 25 μg/mL, 23% at 50 μg/mL, and 84% at 100 μg/mL. As a result of confirming the stability of the formulation according to the method of quercetin in the sunscreen formulation, the stability of the formulation was improved when quercetin was added directly to the formulation. It also improved the UV protection index on in vitro and in vivo, which is expected to have the potential as a component that can have a new boosting effect on UV protection. These results suggest that organo hectorite is very effective as a quercetin carrier and that it can be applied in cosmetic formulations by not only expressing the efficacy of quercetin but also bringing about additional effects.

Key Words

flavonoid, quercetin, poorly soluble, organo hectorite, SPF boosting

송상훈 Sang-hun Song , 주장호 Jangho Joo , 박현섭 Hyun Sub Park , 손성길 Seong Kil Son , 강내규 Nae-gyu Kang

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Abstract

Recently, there have been attempts to claim the hair moisturizing effect for a hair care product, however there has not yet been an official evaluation method because heating temperature for hair has not been established. This study was conducted to establish a quantitative evaluation for hair water content. In order to observe the behavior of water inside hair, heat was applied to hair with various temperatures using thermogravimetric dry residue. As the heating temperature increased, the amount of moisture released from the hair increased. As a result of evaluating hair using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), a unique phenomenon in which a rapid endothermic reaction occurs around 75 ℃ was observed. This phenomenon was also observed in different ethnic hair. In hair that damaged the hair cuticle barrier with oxidation and heat, this rapidly rising endothermic reaction temperature occurred at 77 ℃, which was slightly higher, and 73 ℃ was observed when this hair was applied with polar oil, conditioning polymer, or keratin protein. To determine how this reaction affects the hair surface, friction test was performed using an atomic force microscope. When heated above 75 ℃, cuticle friction increased, however when heated above 90 ℃, there was no change in hair cuticle friction. Finally, it was confirmed that around 75 ℃ is the critical temperature at which desorption of water bound to the hair occurs. It is suggested that a heating temperature of 75 ℃ is the optimal temperature for detecting and quantifying the moisture content of hair, and that approximately 10% detected at 75 ℃ can be a standard value for hair moisture content.

Key Words

water content, hair, hair moisture, moisture quantification

유지영 Jiyoung You , 오세영 Se-young Oh , 임예지 Yeji Im , 전수원 Suwon Jeon , 노경백 Kyung-baeg Roh , 최송아 Song-ah Choi , 조은애 Eunae Cho , 박덕훈 Deokhoon Park , 정은선 Eunsun Jung

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Abstract

This study is to propose Lagerstroemia indica flower as an anti-acne cosmetic material, and confirmed the sebum control, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects using Lagerstroemia indica f lower extract (LIFE). As a result of evaluating the sebum control effectiveness, it was confirmed that LIFE inhibited the production of sebum excessively induced with palmitic acid up to 65%. Subsequently, it was confirmed that LIFE has an antibacterial effect and the ability to inhibit lipase activity against Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes), which mainly appears in acne lesions, and can also reduce the inflammatory response caused by virulence factors secreted by C. acnes. It was also confirmed that LIFE inhibited the secretion of nitrogen monoxide (NO) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), which are inflammatory mediators induced by LPS in macrophages, by 75% and 54%, respectively, and that it also had a high DPPH radical scavenging ability similar to that of ascorbic acid. These results suggest that LIFE, a natural extract, can be used as an anti-acne material to relieve and treat acne, a complex disease, by controlling sebum production and having antibacterial and lipase activity inhibiting against C. acnes, and anti-inflammatory, antioxidant properties.

Key Words

Lagerstroemia indica flower, acne vulgaris, anti-inflammation, antioxidant, sebum

심중현 Joonghyun Shim

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Abstract

This study was carried out to identify the anti-inflammatory effects of Ishige foliacea (I. foliacea) extract on skin using RAW 264.7 cells. The anti-inflammatory effects of I. foliacea extract on RAW 264.7 cells were assessed by cell viability assay, mRNA expressions, and nitric oxide (NO)/prostaglandin E₂ (PGE₂) productions. The anti-inflammatory effects of I. foliacea extract were elucidated by analysis of IL-1α/IL-1β/IL-6/TNFα gene expressions and PGE₂/NO production. Quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction showed that I. foliacea extract decreased the gene expression levels of iNOS/COX2/IL-1α/IL-1β and IL-6. Furthermore, PGE₂/NO production also revealed that I. foliacea extract exhibited anti-inflammatory properties. These results suggest that I. foliacea extract is an anti-inflammatory compound. It could be a potent cosmeceutical material for anti-inflammatory effects. Further studies on the anti-inflammatory mechanisms of broadleaf extracts are expected to help identify pharmacological mechanisms related to inflammation in addition to cosmeceuticals.

Key Words

Ishige foliacea, inflammation, PGE₂, nitric oxide, interleukin

김민정 Min Jeong Kim , 최원영 Won Yeoung Choi , 심현우 Hyun Woo Shim , 신은진 Eun Jin Shin , 이정노 Jung No Lee , 박성민 Sung Min Park , 유화선 Hwa Sun Ryu

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Abstract

Songla (Usnea diffracta Vain.) is one of the lichens belonging to the genus Usnea, and pharmacological activities such as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor and cardiovascular protection have been reported in previous studies, but its efficacy in skin and hair is not well known. In this study, the effect of Usnea diffracta extract (UDE) on anti-aging and dermal papilla cell proliferation was verified in vitro. As a result of the experiment, it was confirmed that the UDE significantly reduced the expression of MMP-1 and the activity of MAPKs (ERK, p38, JNK) and AP-1 (c-Fos, c-Jun), which were increased by UVA in HDFn. In addition, the UDE significantly increased the proliferation of HFDPC and significantly increased the mRNA expression of VEGF and KGF, which are hair growth factors. Accordingly, the phosphorylation of ERK/CREB involved in hair proliferation and expression of growth factors was increased in a concentration-dependent manner. The main component represented by the main peak was separated and purified usingPrep LC by concentrating the UDE, which was confirmed as diffractaic acid through NMR and Mess analysis. Isolated diffractaic acid significantly reduced the expression of MMP-1 increased by UVA in HDFn and increased the proliferation of HFDPC in a concentration-dependent manner. The result suggest that UDE proved its usability as a natural cosmetic material with anti-aging and dermal papilla cell activation effects.

Key Words

Usena diffracta Vain, MMP-1, MAPKs, hair growth, growth factor

조양희 Yang Hee Jo , 최재혁 Jae Hyeok Choi , 김준일 Junil Kim , 곽태일 Taeil Kwak , 이우람 Woo-ram Lee

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Abstract

Elaeocarpus sylvestris var. ellipticus is an evergreen tree of the family Elaeocarpaceae, which is a plant that grows naturally only in subtropical regions due to its vulnerability to cold. E. sylvestris has been reported to have flavonoids, coumarins, and polyphenols, and it is reported that these components have antibacterial and antioxidant effects. In this study, a roasting technique was introduced to increase the physiological activity of E. sylvestris, and antioxidant, total phenol, and total flavonoid content were measured after confirming changes in the ingredients of roasted E. sylvestris extracts and fractions. We analyzed the extracts before and after roasting and found an increase in the content of four components (brevifolin, ellagic acid, quercetin, and kaempferol), with the roasted extracts showing better antioxidant activity. The optimal roasting condition was confirmed to have the best antioxidant effect when roasting at 200 ℃ for 30 min, and the total phenol and total flavonoid content were also confirmed to be the best. E. sylvestris extract produced under optimal roasting conditions has been confirmed to exhibit improved antioxidant effects, and it is believed that it can be used as a cosmetic and food material in the future.

Key Words

Elaeocarpus sylvestris, roasting, antioxidant, total phenolics, total flavonoids

조하현 Ha Hyeon Jo , 천유연 You-yeon Chun , 허효진 Hyojin Heo , 이상훈 Sang Hun Lee , Lei Lei , 김예지 Ye Ji Kim , 곽병문 Byeong-mun Kwak , 이미기 Mi-gi Lee , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin

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Abstract

For plasma cosmetics, it is important to ensure the long-term stability of plasma in the formulation. This study examined the suitability of containers for efficient plasma cosmetics development. By varying the surface area covered by the plasma, 4 cm², 25 cm², 75 cm², and 175 cm² containers were injected with cosmetic plasma, and the amount of nitric oxide (NO), the main active species of nitrogen plasma, was analyzed. As a result, the surface area and stability exposed to plasma tended to be inversely proportional, and it was most effective in a 4 cm2 container. Furthermore, 25 mm, 40 mm, and 50 mm vials were treated with plasma, which resulted in relative long-term stability of NO at 25 mm, a smaller surface area of the container exposed to air. Water mist and stratified mist were selected as cosmetic formulations, and NO plasma was injected into the water layer to observe the changes in formulation properties and the state of the injected NO plasma. In both formulations, the amount of NO plasma injected was about 1.5 times higher in the water phase mist than in the stratified mist, and the stratified mist gradually decreased with time and was found to disappear after 3 weeks. The stability of the nitrogen plasma was studied at low temperature (4 ℃), room temperature (25 ℃), and high temperature (37 ℃, 50 ℃). As a result, it was found that the water mist did not affect the stability, but the stratified mist observed a color change in the oil phase layer. Overall, this study demonstrates the container suitability of nitrogen plasma and suggests the importance of ensuring the stability of injected nitrogen plasma in cosmetic formulations.

Key Words

nitrogen plasma, nitric oxide (NO), water mist, stratified mist, cosmetic formulations

김유진 Yu Jin Kim , 권순현 Soon Hyun Kwon , 송지현 Ji Hyun Song , 이소미 So Mi Lee , 김용민 Yong Min Kim

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Abstract

Skin aging progresses due to external factors such as ultraviolet rays and infections. These factors cause skin fibroblasts to secrete proteolytic enzymes, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). MMPs induce the degradation of collagen located in the extracellular matrix, directly influencing aging. The stems of Akebia quinata Decaisne have been reported to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. However, the anti-aging effect of Akebia quinata Decaisne stem ethanol extract (AQSEE) is not known. Therefore, we studied the TNF-α-induced MMP-1 inhibitory effect in human fibroblasts. When the cell viability of AQSEE was confirmed through MTT asaay, it showed no toxicity up to 400 μg/mL. The inhibition of MMP-1 mRNA and protein secretion was confirmed through RT-qPCR and ELISA, and results showed a significant decrease at concentrations of 100, 200, 400 μg/mL. We also confirmed by Western blotting that phosphorylation of MAPKs signaling pathway and transcription factors was reduced. As a result, phosphorylation of p38, c-Jun, p65 was significantly decreased at all concentrations. DPPH and ABTS assays were performed to confirm the radical scavenging ability of AQSEE, and the results showed a significant decrease at all concentrations. The results of this study confirmed the MMP-1 inhibitory effect and radical scavenging ability, which suggests that it can be used as an anti-aging substance.

Key Words

Akebia quinata decaisne, collagen, MMP-1, MAPKs, anti-aging

이인숙 In-sook Lee , 김연지 Yeon-ji Kim , 김꽃봉우리 Koth-bong-woo-ri Kim , 구평태 Pyoung-tae Ku

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Abstract

Four children's cosmetic sets were purchased online, labeled for use from 4 years of age, and 81 components of each were analyzed for lead, cadmium, arsenic, antimony, nickel, cobalt, copper, chromium, and mercury by inductive coupled plasma - mass spectrometry (ICP - MS). The average metal concentrations were as follows: 0.82 μg/g for lead, 0.03 μg/g for cadmium, 0.97 μg/g for arsenic, 0.52 μg/g for antimony, 2.32 μg/g for nickel and 0.01 μg/g for mercury which was lower than the acceptable standards for all products. Higher mean values of lead, antimony, cobalt, and copper were detected in imported than domestic products (p < 0.05). There was a statistically significant difference in the average values of heavy metals according to the type of cosmetics (p < 0.05), with eyeshadow showing the highest mean values of arsenic 2.47 μg/g, nickel 6.36 μg/g, and chromium 11.06 μg/g. and the highest mean concentrations were 1.20 ㎍/g for lead, 1.17 ㎍/g for antimony, and 23.60 ㎍/g for copper in blusher. The levels of cobalt in the 81 children’s cosmetics were ND ∼ 5.23 μg/g, copper were ND ∼ 379.61 μg/g, and chromium were detected ND ∼ 36.95 μg/g, respectively. Brown colored cosmetics had the highest mean concentrations of nickel and cobalt. Purple-colored cosmetics had the highest mean concentration of lead and chromium.

Key Words

children, cosmetic set, heavy metals, ICP-MS

서재용 Jae Yong Seo , 김고은 Go Eun Kim , 유지수 Ji Soo Ryu , 장아름 A Reum Jang , 심수안 Su An Sim , 이정노 Jung No Lee , 배승희 Seunghee Bae

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Abstract

In this study, we prepared fractions from Cynanchum paniculatum (C. paniculatum) with ethyl acetate and identified the structure and content of paeonol, an indicator substance. Fractions were obtained by sequential solvent fractions using n-hexane, methylene chloride, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, and distilled water, and showed the highest paeonol content in ethyl acetate (EtOAc). The structure of the ethyl acetate fraction (EA) was confirmed by nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and the content was determined by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis. The antioxidant activity of EA was tested through its ability to scavenge 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS), and its ability to inhibit nitric oxide (NO) production in RAW 264.7 cells induced by lipopolysaccharide (LPS) was tested for its ability to inhibit NO production in a concentration-dependent manner. Furthermore, MMP-1 production induced by ultraviolet B (UVB) was decreased in a concentration-dependent manner by the EA, and the ability to produce procollagen type-I was increased in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, as a result of conducting clinical trials using cosmetic formulations containing EA, the effect of improving wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed. Thus, it is expected that Cynanchum paniculatum can be used as a natural functional cosmetic material with antioxidant and anti-aging effects.

Key Words

Cynanchum paniculatum, anti-aging, paeonol, anti-oxidant, anti-inflammation